Route Season Psyche!! (http://emmatwyford.blogspot.com/2012/03/route-season-psyche.html)
16 March 2012, 9:29 pm
Its been a good few weeks but also frustrating at the same time. Hopefully I will get the problems I have been trying soon, but the routes are becoming dry and psyche is high again! :)
After taking it easy last week I headed up to Malham with Jimmy Big Guns on Monday and Tuesday this week. Unfortunately when we arrived it was a lot more wet than I thought it was going to be, surprisingly it has been rather nice in Wales! The bottom part of the route I have been trying was soaked but the top half was dry so I got some good links in high up, I was pretty happy with this and hopefully it is a a positive step towards doing the route. Jim was also on the same route and made some good links for his first time up it, looking like the beast that he is.
On the Wednesday after getting back I was planning on having a rest day with no skin left and a sore shoulder but it was so beautiful outside that I got roped into going up into the pass bouldering with Ollie Cain and Ruth Bevan. One of the great things about Llanberis is that there are so many people psyched to get out but its also really hard to say no when you should be resting. Ollie had promised me an easy day pottering but in the end this was not the case! It started off nicely lazing about on the pads soaking up the sun but then more people arrived so we felt like we should probably start climbing. We warmed up a bit then did a nice problem called the Scoop Sit Start (V4). Ruth tried this a few times putting in some stirling efforts and falling off the tricky last move. This was awesome as she had just finished some hardcore night shifts - I know most people would have been catching up on some much needed sleep!! She will definitely crush next time when she is fresh.
Meanwhile I turned my attention to Scoop Traverse (V8+/7b+), I was really happy to do this on my third go after a bit of tweaking on the middle section. It felt pretty ok but the moves definitely suited me with none of them being ridiculously powerful. After that I tried a problem called the sting (V8) but it has really small holds and I wasn't psyched for losing more skin more psyched for a cuppa tea!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HsAlZha1Wuk/T2OY-AFkd0I/AAAAAAAAAEA/gSJ9jGhYkp0/s640/scoop+1.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HsAlZha1Wuk/T2OY-AFkd0I/AAAAAAAAAEA/gSJ9jGhYkp0/s1600/scoop+1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scoop Traverse V8+ stretchy move - Ollie Cain
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(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yPcuHLPQPMk/T2OdzHpcEqI/AAAAAAAAAEI/gIfdrJFF50c/s640/scoop+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yPcuHLPQPMk/T2OdzHpcEqI/AAAAAAAAAEI/gIfdrJFF50c/s1600/scoop+2.jpg) |
Scoop Traverse, getting ready for crux - Ollie Cain
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(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2pAeA3T2V-0/T2OfBNLSjaI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/dvFd8xrUnUs/s640/scoop+3.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2pAeA3T2V-0/T2OfBNLSjaI/AAAAAAAAAEQ/dvFd8xrUnUs/s1600/scoop+3.jpg) |
Scoop Traverse, crux move - Ollie Cain
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6dodLqUFBpg/T2OijloelWI/AAAAAAAAAEY/E0h1RxwgZs8/s640/scoop+4.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6dodLqUFBpg/T2OijloelWI/AAAAAAAAAEY/E0h1RxwgZs8/s1600/scoop+4.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scoop Traverse, crux move - Ollie Cain[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-E1phX4y18/T2OkNcJZx9I/AAAAAAAAAEg/aqpUNF6Gp2g/s640/scoop+5.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3-E1phX4y18/T2OkNcJZx9I/AAAAAAAAAEg/aqpUNF6Gp2g/s1600/scoop+5.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scoop Traverse, the end is in sight - Ollie Cain[/td][/tr]
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Luckily after three days on I had a day of work at the Beacon, I don't think I could have taken another day on of climbing. Today after my day of rest I went to LPT with Ollie Cain and Mark Reeves, I woke up feeling pretty awful with a bad nights sleep and stuffed full of cold so it was a pretty slack start. I did start to perk up a bit as the day went on, I was trying Over the Moon Direct (8a) and fell off at the last move on the attempt I had before the tide came in, I also felt pretty knackered after this attempt so thought it wise to stop there. Unfortunately the climbing is not over until you have got the jugs at the top if you are on the shorter side! Hopefully it will go soon though otherwise you might hear me screaming a few times at the top. This was my third time down at LPT this year and it has been pretty lush down there with the sun out shining on two occasions.
Luckily I now have a couple of rest days doing my first aid course so hopefully I will have recovered and be rested for next week..............
Have a nice weekend to those who read this and lots of fun climbing!
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Source: Goodbye 2011, Hello 2012! (http://emmatwyford.blogspot.com/)