UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: AdamD on February 02, 2012, 10:35:38 am
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Hello guys,
Recently I've been getting really sore finger tips, just under the nail bed. If I have a heavy session I end up with the point where the nail attaches to the nail bed at the front, bleeding. It's pretty frustrating because it leads to having to take 2-3days off because of how sore it gets.
Has anyone come across this and if so, do you know any remedies?
Cheers.
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Don't bite your nails.
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Don't bite your nails.
and tidy that room while you're at it.
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yes, i have usually attributed it to excessively dry nail beds cracking and partially seperating, and mainly have got it when climbing inside a lot, or in very dry places. Washing hands and moisturising soon after climbing seems to help.
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do you use chalk with a drying agent in it?if i use that sort of chalk i get quite a bit of dry and cracked skin so i use the plain stuff(also cheaper).also always wash your hands immediately after finishing climbing
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I used to get cracks there from climbing on the quartzite in SA, which involved a lot of crimps in a hot dry climate. So if it's not dry nail beds as mentioed above, it could be you are crimping too much?
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Don't bite your nails.
Indeed. If you do, stop. If you don't please ignore.
It's also worth having a nail brush, (very masculine I know,) to get the chalk out from under the fingernails, or soaking the fingers in water whilst rubbing for a couple of minutes. Just washing under the tap, however thoroughly, never seems to do quite a good enough job.
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Well I'm currently stuck in London, so indoors is the only climbing available... I'm using metolius super chalk at the moment, so it could be the chalk? I may go back to basic stuff, I never used to get this when I lived back up north and used different chalk... :-\
I shall try all that has been mentioned, and report back.
Cheers chaps!
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I've has this several times on our trip and it's been more of a problem than lack of skin. For me it's from using antihydral and not using enough Lizzy Hardon to counteract the dryness, although it's also happened when I've not cut my nails enough and then smashed my hand into the back of a hold. This leaves a separated nail that you need to rip out from your finger which is foooking awful. Over night I'm using lots of moisturiser etc and then when climbing I'll glue a small piece of tape around the edge of my finger to stop re-injuring. The small amount of tape on the end of my finger doesn't affect my (terrible) climbing. After that it's just a waiting game.
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Well I'm currently stuck in London, so indoors is the only climbing available... I'm using metolius super chalk at the moment, so it could be the chalk? I may go back to basic stuff, I never used to get this when I lived back up north and used different chalk... :-\
I shall try all that has been mentioned, and report back.
Cheers chaps!
Bin the superchalk, it'll put you on a fast track to skin issues if you're in any way prone to dry skin (and even if you're not).
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I've has this several times on our trip and it's been more of a problem than lack of skin. For me it's from using antihydral and not using enough Lizzy Hardon to counteract the dryness, although it's also happened when I've not cut my nails enough and then smashed my hand into the back of a hold. This leaves a separated nail that you need to rip out from your finger which is foooking awful. Over night I'm using lots of moisturiser etc and then when climbing I'll glue a small piece of tape around the edge of my finger to stop re-injuring. The small amount of tape on the end of my finger doesn't affect my (terrible) climbing. After that it's just a waiting game.
I've been following your "terrible" climbing...
I wish I was that terrible...
I've had this when not keeping fingernails short enough, too.
Also, when using liquid chalk in high temps.
Moisturiser.
Lots of it.
Also, if it gets to the bleeding/weeping stage, it can be dried out/disinfected using a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution (standard contact lens solution), usually heals inside two days for me then (same for splits and flappers).
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Well I'm currently stuck in London, so indoors is the only climbing available... I'm using metolius super chalk at the moment, so it could be the chalk? I may go back to basic stuff, I never used to get this when I lived back up north and used different chalk... :-\
I shall try all that has been mentioned, and report back.
Cheers chaps!
Bin the superchalk, it'll put you on a fast track to skin issues if you're in any way prone to dry skin (and even if you're not).
Plus one to that, had tons of splits / cracks when I used to use Superchalk.
All the above it great advice, I'd add do plenty of filing with an emery board to remove hard/dead skin which has helped me loads recently.
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I've has this several times on our trip and it's been more of a problem than lack of skin. For me it's from using antihydral and not using enough Lizzy Hardon to counteract the dryness, although it's also happened when I've not cut my nails enough and then smashed my hand into the back of a hold. This leaves a separated nail that you need to rip out from your finger which is foooking awful. Over night I'm using lots of moisturiser etc and then when climbing I'll glue a small piece of tape around the edge of my finger to stop re-injuring. The small amount of tape on the end of my finger doesn't affect my (terrible) climbing. After that it's just a waiting game.
I've been following your "terrible" climbing...
I wish I was that terrible...
I've had this when not keeping fingernails short enough, too.
Also, when using liquid chalk in high temps.
Moisturiser.
Lots of it.
Also, if it gets to the bleeding/weeping stage, it can be dried out/disinfected using a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution (standard contact lens solution), usually heals inside two days for me then (same for splits and flappers).
:agree:
though any sort of antihydral stuff can also me used... with a ton of very strong skin cream, like lizzy ardon..
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Well I'm currently stuck in London, so indoors is the only climbing available... I'm using metolius super chalk at the moment, so it could be the chalk? I may go back to basic stuff, I never used to get this when I lived back up north and used different chalk... :-\
I shall try all that has been mentioned, and report back.
Cheers chaps!
cant hurt to try it for a few weeks and see if it improves things :)
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keep dabbing sudocream under the nail every four hours for a couple of days and they should heal up. i get them occasionally when ive bitten my nails to short but that trick has always worked.
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A quick update: I've been climbing the past week and I have had no nail problems at all and no pains in my fingers. It seems that the changed in chalk has massively helped! :dance1: