UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: leeroy on December 08, 2011, 03:47:59 pm
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New problem in a quarry above Darley Dale. Potential for a harder variation using the poor chalked dishes (on video below) instead of the arete but it felt much harder. From a stand the problem is 6c with the crux being sticking the very dusty and rubbly ledge above.
From The Ritz To The Rubble (http://vimeo.com/33344489)
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Looks like nice rock. Which quarry is it?
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Looks like nice rock. Which quarry is it?
Not sure of the name. Its on the next lump of land along from Hall Moor Quarry. Its in Holt Woods on the hillside above the old St Elphins school. Yeh decent rock (much better than anything else there) aside from the finishing ledge which is pretty dusty and crumbly. Theres not much else there apart from the crack on the left in video - good v3/4 from a sitter and an eliminate arete to the right.
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I put it on pb.info. Does this look right?
http://peakbouldering.info/crags/158 (http://peakbouldering.info/crags/158)
Feel free to add/edit details.
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Yeh looks great, map location is pretty spot on. Cheers man.
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Should probably be in the same area as Jackson Tor aswell. so southern grit rather than western. thanks again.
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Location looks shit but that problem looks good!
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Person who found it is not happy with me disclosing its location :furious: so until he's happy for people to climb there can people stay away, although i doubt you'll have been flocking there anyway...
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:-\ :???:
I'm sure the new prob is great, but really I think your man rather overestimates both the power of the internet and the enthusiasm of climbers for straying off the beaten track!
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Person who found it is not happy with me disclosing its location
There is tons of unlisted rock in old quarried bits in the SE peak that people have wandered round for years. Quite a few might offer the odd good problem but I'm not so sure people will be rushing for a visit on most. There are several of the better non-established venues hinted at in the Froggatt guide and some established and known but hardly ever getting a vist even listed in there. How many people have bouldered/climbed at all the following: Little Eaton Quarries; Horsley Castle; Shining Cliff woods; Crag W; Alport Stone outliers; HighOrdish; woods 1km west of Clifftop; Hurker Wood;. .......
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Person who found it is not happy with me disclosing its location :furious: so until he's happy for people to climb there can people stay away, although i doubt you'll have been flocking there anyway...
Making a statement like that immediately gets me thinking there are good unclimbed lines to be had, whereas if you had just kept mum I doubt anyone would bother going.
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How many people have bouldered/climbed at all the following: Little Eaton Quarries; Horsley Castle; Shining Cliff woods; Crag W; Alport Stone outliers; HighOrdish; woods 1km west of Clifftop; Hurker Wood;. .......
Is the answer Bonjoy? :-\
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I've actually not been to two of those (maybe only one, depends on what Crag W refers to).
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:-\ :???:
I'm sure the new prob is great, but really I think your man rather overestimates both the power of the internet and the enthusiasm of climbers for straying off the beaten track!
Its not that great ;) and yeh its very unlikely anyone will ever want to go again - im never going back, its a hole - but i was just following a request from a friend.
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I've actually not been to two of those (maybe only one, depends on what Crag W refers to).
Crag W is next to eatswood (W for wank painted on the craglet), named in Froggatt.
Whats the other you've not done?
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In that case I've been.
I wasn't questioning the quality of the prob leeroy. Just thought it a bit daft that your mate thought it necessary to be all hush hush about it
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In that case I've been.
I wasn't questioning the quality of the prob leeroy. Just thought it a bit daft that your mate thought it necessary to be all hush hush about it
Tis daft no doubt (he obviously thinks its much better than it is) To compare, this place makes matlock bank and hall moor look like ceuse and buoux.
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You just need twilight and to squint heavily.
On a serious point I do wonder how many people visit some of these places as some stuff is quite good, albeit sometimes lacking a good grade spread. I'm talking the real esoterica here like my list, not the established esoteric like the Bradley area, Matlock Bank, Stanton Moor, Chasecliffe area stuff and the odd minor things like Melvyn Stutter. I'm also not trying to discourage exploration but walking some of those obscure quarries can be depressing (unless maybe you have a brush compulsion fetish). It wasn't all bad though....still want to do a lead at Knabb one day as it looked bloody amazing and we did the odd fun isolated problem.
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I've been to a few of those places. The problem I find is that I usually only end up exploring when conditions are bad so wetness makes them seem less enticing than they may actually be and I'm just not psyched to return when conditions are better. It also takes a lot of persuading to get people to go to obscure little places with you, I find.
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One of the big aims of peakbouldering.info was to give esoterica an equal chance to shine. Guidebooks often don't have the space, but on the internet we can have as many photos and videos of minor gems as we want. I love the internet for its power to share. If it looks good, people will seek it out. Not so many people are explorers - most prefer not to risk wasting their weekend - but if they've been inspired by a video, the risk is smaller.
The flip side is that most people will continue to seek out the "classics" - problems they have seen and heard most about, and so we get even more photos and videos of these. So now you can watch Deliverance, Brad Pit, Jerry's Traverse, Trackside etc. a million times over. Understandably, these are the first problems most people want to try.
But bouldering has been mainstream (in the small world of climbing) for what, a couple of decades now? The amount of people who have done or given up on the classics is growing. Some of them will just keep repeating the same old moves, but more and more will seek out new things to do.
One of these days, people will even go bouldering at Laurencefield.*
*They say there's one born every minute.
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PB is good and getting better all the time. Would be even better if you could look for all recently put up probs i.e. FA date rather than date probs added to PB. That way you could for instance search for all FAs since the last edition of the bouldering guide which would be handy for us wandering types.
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"One of the big aims of peakbouldering.info was to give esoterica an equal chance to shine. "
I really like the content of your site and I think that quote relates to one of it's strongest points... its one of the few Offwidth site links... but like all sites I'm nervous that one day something will happen and the site will just go.
Also at lower grades (my range) the coverage is occasionally patchy. I'd love to help fix this but barely get time to update my own site let alone others as well (anyone should feel free to raid the good stuff from Offwidth if they want).
I'd also strongly support the leafy gent's suggestion.
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but like all sites I'm nervous that one day something will happen and the site will just go.
You should acquaint yourself with archive.org (http://www.archive.org/) where many, many sites are regularly mirrored (including my own first stab at html coding which is no longer hosted at its original location).
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If thats the Wayback machine the coverage of old versions of 'Offwidth' was poor last time I looked. Not checked many others.
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See the second FAQ (http://www.archive.org/about/faqs.php#The_Wayback_Machine) if you want to improve that.