UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Robsons on November 15, 2011, 12:10:11 am
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So, The Cuttings isn't the most inspirational crag I've ever been to, but I was psyched to get on Breathing Method to see how it felt.
The whole climb is fairly easy except for the 7 move crux...
Has anyone been on/done this route?
I was going from the four finger jug on overhang into mono gaston with left hand -then big drop knee to get tiny crimper around little prow...turning and pulling up to vertical gaston then trying to get right hand on crimp to bounce to pinch. Spin onto small arete with left hand and pull up to positive crimps on flowstone...? Felt hard :spank:, weird and I'm looking for beta...?
Anyone?
Thanks,
Robin
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I only remember CC has done it.
(http://i.ukc2.com/i/1128.jpg)
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You got a sponsor there RS?
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Twatting twat. :shit: That showed up on preview.
http://i.ukc2.com/i/1128.jpg (http://i.ukc2.com/i/1128.jpg)
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It will have done because your browse had cached it (i.e. it was stored in a temporary directory on your HD).
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:blink:
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I only remember CC has done it.
(http://i.ukc2.com/i/1128.jpg)
Chris Craggs? :o
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Has anyone been on/done this route?
I was going from the four finger jug on overhang into mono gaston with left hand -then big drop knee to get tiny crimper around little prow...turning and pulling up to vertical gaston then trying to get right hand on crimp to bounce to pinch. Spin onto small arete with left hand and pull up to positive crimps on flowstone...? Felt hard :spank:, weird and I'm looking for beta...?
had a quick go last weekend. this is pretty much what i was doing too. The really hard bit felt like catching the positive LH gaston, and using it to bump RH. I reckon it is just hard and wierd, but that's what you get for all the rest of the moves being about English 5a. ;) To me it felt like good breezy condtions would help a lot on those pinches.
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Interesting, as I think I was using the flowstone, vertical gaston and pulling my right hand through to positive gaston and then bouncing to pinch...
I am assuming that you (Toby) pulled through from the tiny crimp right up to positive gaston?
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Just got schooled on this too, but my sequence was totally different - I was crossing through to the mono with the right hand, then getting a decent LH sidepull out left. Then LH to the better gaston, really dodgy right kneebar in the little groove, right hand snatch to crimp, then walking feet up to the right of the groove and reaching for the pinch with the RH.
The real issue I had was moving from that RH pinch - I was trying to go from this to the minging crimp with the thumb catch way up and left, which was incredibly low percentage. Is there a trick to getting into the layaway thing above the pinch? I couldn't seem to make it work... :spank: