UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: abarro81 on November 10, 2011, 03:22:22 pm
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Thinking of hitting Almscliffe this weekend, but I've got a somewhat injured knee so need some advice on what to try and whether it's worth the drive given that I don't want to try
1) Anything which finishes more than about 3 foot off the floor
2) Anything with ANY right heel hooks involved (unfortunate given that traverses fit number (1) but often involve heels)
3) Anything which involves sitting onto a high right foot (it's OK if the foot is off to the side but anything where you get your weight onto a high foot right under you is out)
7a-7c range is of most interest, and having only ever been there once before I've not really got a clue what there is there.
Would the keel fit the bill?
Thanks
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With a dicky knee Demon wall roof's methods are out (possibly not thought) so is stu's and dolphin belly slap. Having not done it I can't be sure but I think the keel has some form of foot lockingtwistyshit (this may be short person beta though). However, Si's arete would be good, as would crucifix low traverse . . . anddddd I'm spent.
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Done DWR, Dolphin Belly and crucifix low on my one previous visit... Si's arete looks cool, will put in on the to-do list if I head up. Ta
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Only saw one lanky bastard on the keel, but his sequence looked like it the most leg-tensiony move just involved toeing down hard with the right foot. Did involve kind of squeezing against a left heel though so there might have been more sideways pressure on the knee than it appeared.
You could always try the original sequence, which barely involves your feet at all! 8)
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If you drew a venn Diagram of suitable problems I've done and good probs I've done in the 7a-7c range, there isn't a lot!
Sloper Patrol? I think only 6c+ but ticks the boxes I think?
Have a look on yorkshiregrit.com for some vids and inspiration.
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Sloper patrol up hill..
Slopey traverse? the one that goes from R-L and ends up Morrells wall.. 7B+/C IIRC,
Sit start to matterhorn arete..
Virgin Traverse.. miles harder than the grade its given - and not much RF action...
Low traverse under three swings (no break) - prob ~ 6B+/C
The traverse from LR befire si's arete is in the med high 6's..
NOT the Keel - I imagine the right foot lock in the slot would be grim on the knee...
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Steve's Wall (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__steves_wall#photo;n=0") seems to tick all the boxes, it's a canny problem too I reckons.
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NOT the Keel - I imagine the right foot lock in the slot would be grim on the knee...
Everyone I know used a Left foot toe lock. You don't use the Right foot all that much. i_a_coops did it without a shoe on his RF so can't be that tensiony.
I'd say Keel would be ok. Certainly not very high.
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Slopey traverse? the one that goes from R-L and ends up Morrells wall.. 7B+/C IIRC,
Does that one avoid heels? Looks like she's got one up here (though maybe not essential?):
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__slopey_traverse#photo;n=0 (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__slopey_traverse#photo;n=0)
Cheers for the info everyone. If anyone has alternative suggestions on venues near Leeds which would have more suitable problems that might work too...
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Valle du fingrezbord http://www.theclimbingdepot.com/about (http://www.theclimbingdepot.com/about)
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Slopey traverse? the one that goes from R-L and ends up Morrells wall.. 7B+/C IIRC,
Does that one avoid heels? Looks like she's got one up here (though maybe not essential?):
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__slopey_traverse#photo;n=0 (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__slopey_traverse#photo;n=0)
Cheers for the info everyone. If anyone has alternative suggestions on venues near Leeds which would have more suitable problems that might work too...
I keep feet low and slap along the slopers. I can't do the end part bu no high heels there. I've seen non lankers doing it same (feet low) maybe highish rf at start but that's the easy bit..
Edit just checked yg yes that's the problem, Dal is short and light so heel up works for her I guess. It's a good prob if the conditions are in (it's n facing so in shade most of day)
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Sloper Patrol downhill and Virgin traverse both involve LF heel-hooks (at least my way) so should be okay. And don't be put off by the lowly grades, both take a fair bit of brutish effort and are very satisfying (last week, I was far prouder of re-doing those for the first time in years than many higher grade ticks). The last mantel/rockover (LF) of Sloper Patrol nearly gave me a bloody hernia.
+1 to the traverse across Si's arete good - there's a great eliminate version too where you don't use the flakely crack and keep mid-height across the arete (~7a+, very sustained).
The South Cave Traverse is a good solid 7a+ish but the method I use involves a bit of high foot action - swapping from LF to RF - so might be out (there's a video on yorkshire grit).
Slopey traverse (on Morrells wall boulder) doesn't involve heel-hooks (not by my sequence anyway). Dreamland might be an option too.
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Steve's Wall (http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=almscliff__steves_wall#photo;n=0") seems to tick all the boxes, it's a canny problem too I reckons.
Right foot drop-knee for me on this one, probably doable without though.
Si's Arete and the eliminate traverse are both good. Fieldside Traverse should be OK, it goes up at the end but the other finish is similar in grade (maybe 7a+ instead of 7b).
When you think about the classic problems in that grade range at Almscliff, it's amazing how many use the right heel or drop-knee - Underhand, Top Cat, Streaky's, Sewer Rat, DWR, Dolphin....
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Sounds like there's plenty to try then which is cool. Drop knees are ok, its just the heels and sitting on a high right foot. Bring the traverse ruckus!
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Stretch Armstrong might be OK for you too.
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Thread hijack! What's the beta for Stretch Armstrong - the name suggests it might be up my street (well, the "stretch" bit anyway, I'm certainly not "armstrong"). Is it just a one move reach from undercuts at the back of the roof to the pinch at the lip? Or is there something more / craftier?
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Nope, nothing more complex than get your reach on.
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Some of the things like the Morrel's Wall finish to Slopey Traverse definitely don't fit the
1) Anything which finishes more than about 3 foot off the floor
Criteria. Not likely to fall off it though if you've got that far.
Dreamland should be OK with a decent pad and a spotter or two.
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Some one had poffed this up, saw evidence of it today, and apparently it was pretty bad yesterday, according to a reliable (and massively unimpressed) source. Resin at the cliff? Really?
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Someone poffed dreamland and dwr 3 years ago or so.. It's taken that long to wear off... ESP bad on dreamland as you need all the friction yiu can muster on the Sloper, not some glassy post poff shite.
Anyone any idea who did this?
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dont know who did the old one... or the latest new dreamland poff. sorry