UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: AdamD on November 04, 2011, 12:10:10 am
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So I've ended up with 5 days a week free at the moment and for the foreseeable future.
I live in London, but I get free access to most of Londons climbing walls. So I have campus boards, circuit rooms, beastmakers, gymnast rings, numerous boulder walls, and lots of routes at my disposal. Plus I have a car so can escape to the rock.
I'm currently climbing font 7b+/7c and would like to get to font8a by spring next year.
Can anybody suggest a decent training plan if you had 5 days a week to train? :-\
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For me 5 days climbing a week would be overtraining.i currently climb 3 days a week-1 day campus boarding,one day doing lock off training and some hangs and 1 day doing core and climbing.i sometimes have an extra day outdoor climbing depending on the weather.
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I take it there's no way you can engineer that time to spend a lot of it climbing?
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Day 1: drive to font, climb.
Day 2: Climb
Day 3: chill/bike/run
Day 4: climb
Day 5: Climb, drive home.
Day 6: work
Day 7: work
Repeat....
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climb as much as you can.
you can use time very productively.
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Well it's going to be 5 full days I have free every week. So I was wondering how to structure the training, should I do a session campussing, bouldering, routing etc?
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Probably depends on your weaknesses and how these stack up against your stated goal I'd have thought.
Perhaps consider a coaching session or two (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14856.msg335119.html#msg335119) to help you with this.
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Also depends on what the structure is - do the 2 work have have to come in a row, or can they be split?
Are you only training for boulders or routes too?
And as slackline points out, no-one can really even start answering this question unless they know about your background, strengths, weaknesses etc. If you can campus 1-5-8 and you boulder 7b+/c then the answer is to use your days climbing instead of training. If you can climb that without being able to do a chin-up the answer may not be the same.
Personally I'd go climbing outside as much as possible, with some sessions thrown in after climbing if desired. Especially whilst the lime is still dry. But then I'm a lime-loving route climber who would never live in London, so what I'd do isn't necessarily relevant.
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I'd move out of london and go climbing, or I'd get a job. Life's too short to train 5 days a week.
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what Ru said, apart from the job bit (if you can get away with it) and find another hobby
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I live in London, but I get free access to most of Londons climbing walls.
They're free for londoners? Wow.
Plus I have a car so can escape to the rock.
I'd escape to the rock. And not go back.
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With 5 days a week free I would get on rock as much as possible when there are a few dry days in a row forecast, and train indoors when it's shit. Then work days = rest days.
May sound like stating the obvious, but other than that there are too many unknowns.
Assuming, that is, the grades you refer to are for outdoor stuff, and that's where your interests lie.
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Well I work 2 days, Sunday/Monday at an indoor wall and this gives me the free access to other walls luckily! But I also do research as and when it's needed, so I'm pretty flexible these days. But unfortunately I'm stuck here for the time being, I used to live near the South Lakes so climbed on the lime a lot! (Oh how I miss it...)
I've got a coaching session with Mark Croxall soon, so that should be enlightening.
I shall have to purchase myself a tent and run away to the Peak, Wales, Font etc. As much as I can then!
I guess my biggest weakness is core/lower back strength due to being tall, so training on that would be a massive help.
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I guess my biggest weakness is core/lower back strength due to being tall, so training on that would be a massive help.
If true I found this is straightforward to train with a couple of sessions a week of weights work.
Bolton complex to warm-up Power snatches or the full clean and jerk followed by Deadlifts (the daddy) using youtube videos to get the form right. Aim to deadlift about 2x your bodyweight. I stopped after getting to this point. Occasional floor exercises like dishes are great and of course on the bar leg raises and attempts at front levers. Expect to put on 1/2 kilos of muscle around your midriff and dont forget to incorporate your new core strength into your climbing.
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...I'd be injured by day 3 :slap:
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I'd move out of london and go climbing, or I'd get a job. Life's too short to train 5 days a week.
:agree:
1) Go find a font 8a which inspires you if a 7c+ or an 8a+ looks better to you, pick that. The number is only how hard someone else thought it was, once.
2) Try it, and figure out how you need to be better to do it. (A coach may come in useful here, though it sounds like you have the time to learn and experiment yourself)
3) Then do some training, if you need it; otherwise just climb.