UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: gruffalo on October 26, 2011, 10:59:49 pm
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Ive got a training board 12foot/8foot board I was thinking about putting some volumes on it to get some different types of movement making more like the real thing.. Any one had any joy with using them... I guess the board needs to be big enough to make it work
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my board used to be 8ft x 12ft felt big enough just as a board i think volumes would have crowded it, I've just extended it to 10ft x 12ft feels massive now so might try some on mine. I've climbing on a board with volumes it does add a bit of interest.
Pete
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my experience is that home made volumes detract something from the board. often they make the holds on them too good, or provide very good heel/toe hooking and so on. they add to the interest but in my opinion they're not worth.
on the other hand, resin volumes, without holds on, are very good but pricey.
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Little volumes work well on my board, pyramids about football sized. Create good presses, slopey pinches and ungercuts. Think steeper the board the more useful, my board is about 60deg, much less than 45 and id agree they would be getting in the way.
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On home-walls studded with holds volumes are great for training to tolerate the pain of smashing your knees and elbows into fixed objects.