UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on October 16, 2011, 08:05:57 pm
-
Weight 11.5-7
M.
T. Tor. Morning. Drizzly poor conditions. Went on proj 3 times. 1st go dogging, 2nd go got to tricky clip, 3rd go kept slipping off PushUp as holds got slippy so dogged to top. Lots learnt. Eve. Foundry. Assisted 1 amers - was shit then aborted session when I tweaked right elbow. Tried AnCapiing when got home but elbow still sore so knocked it on head (golfers)
W.
T. Tor. Morning. Go1 putting draws in flashed the lower crux section on TR. Top still hard Go2 Fumbled the hard clip Go3. Got the tricky clip and almost set up for last move but lost power Go4 Sun out split tip dogged to top working last move. Elbow sore - tip of right index finger in bits
F.
S. Nice day!5k Park run with Poppy then drove toTor. Superglued tip up. 1 x dogging go just working top move. Go 1 Felt strong but crimp crumbled incrux section and fell off . Go2 Foot fault after doing tricky clip, got pumped and fell. 3rd go tired fell. Longer rest 4th go got to last move on lower crux but was busted. Lovely weather/ good scene/ worked hard
S. PM Shed. AnCap session 500 moves.
Good week. Meant to be going to Kalymnos on Thursday for 6 days but Air Traffic Controllers may be on strike. Back on proj at Tor on Tuesday. Fingers crossed for both.
-
M - Nowt
T - Nowt
W - Nowt
T - Depot session, a bit lacklustre but improved at the end
F - Nowt
S - Trip to Whitby for the football
S - Caley session, was all rather green and damp - in retrospect should have gone to Almscliff really. Wound up failing lots, then sacked off trying in vain in favour of an easier circuit.
-
STG: Font in 2 weeks
M: 4x4s at the Foundry
T: Works.
W: Nada
T: Works - Good session on the comp wall, some campus work and the new black circuit
F: Works - short session on easy circuits
S: Cocking Tor & Turningstone edge. Bit warm, Pagan Cross was the only notable tick.
S: Cratcliffe - Some refined beta saw me falling off from the slopy dish on T Crack. Unfortunately I had to leave at short notice which was frustrating as felt like I was getting close. Some fingerboarding in evening.
-
M > T press ups, core exercises intermittently.
F Curbar with T1. Good play on the usual trackside suspects.. A bit soapy and lost a load of my knuckle skin but nice to get out. Many beers in the eve in a Random pub in Salford....
S nothing
Su Wimberry. Green green green and a bit damp. Managed an hour before my skin gave up..
Just trying to stay in the game while there's lots of work on and the weathers log...
-
Didn't do much last week.
So, STG#1 - Make it to today uninjured. Tick!
#2 - onsight Fr7b and quick redpoint of 7c in el chorro - find out next week!!
Mon: nowt
Tues: went to weem for some easy/mid grade sport cragging to get back in the groove, but weather forced us to dunkeld. Ticked AK old nemesis, the chopping block at Fr7b. 3rd rp after one dog. Also had a few burns on banish feds, Fr7b+. Shoulders/upper back felt weak.
Wed: nowt.
Thur: 3 hours mountainbiking, then ratho session. Short. Only managed 5 routes, not climbing well.
Fri: climbing at gcc. Felt weak, but somehow managed to flash an easy Fr7b so can't be too weak!
Sat: nowt.
Sun: boulder at Glasgow climbing academy, some circuits, and just generally larking around trying to flash everything. Felt better.
El chorro on Tuesday!!!!!!!!! :2thumbsup:
-
M
T - indoor routes followed by bouldering. quick RP of a 7a+, felt like i was climbing well. Bouldering up to V6, warmed down by setting myself some hideous chimneying problems.
W
T
F :beer2: :pissed: :w00t: :punk: :bounce: :whip: :spank: :-[
S :'( never drinking again.
S Cheddar, took ages to work out the moves on a surprisingly good 7c+, with suprisingly nice holds. linked it in 3 overlapping sections, but was far too spannered to have a serious RP. Will hopefully get back on it soon.
-
STG: Score > 600 in boulder comp next week
Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
M:
T:
W: Boulderwelt: (too little, too late) training session for next week's boulder comp. Stamina focusing on trying as many problems as possible up to / around my flash level.
T: Bike to work in the freezing cold rain, having hardly been near my bike in the preceding weeks of freak autumn heatwave. Am not sure why I did this.
F: Thalkirchen bouldering: another pre-comp stamina session
S: yoga
S:
-
M - Run
T - Arch light rehab. Shoulder sore
W - Shoulder exs.
T - Run, shoulder exs.
F - Shoulder exs.
S - Coaching with the Bonkers Grit Primate. Also snuck out of class and did some soloing.
S - Whipsnade Zoo with the lad, run along Dunstable Downs. Monkeys even better than Johnny.
Shoulder still iffy.
Coaching session was very good. I had been worried how an arch-rationalist like myself would take to it but there were some very interesting ideas and it all made good sense. Now to attempt to put it into practice...
-
M. Nothing.
T. Bouldering Rockcity mainly repeated stuff with a couple of attempts at stuff I hadn't done. Got tired quickly again.
W. Nothing.
Th. Bouldering Rockcity did 18 problems twice to try and increase my session staminia.
F. Nothing.
S. Weights increased weight and reps. Deadhanging 6 secs hangs plus 8 lbs on all grips except 35 degree slopers 6 secs plus 18 lbs. Bike 1 hr 30 mins.
Su. Leeds wall. Did another red v6 and repeated the one I did last time first go.Good session.
A bit gutted not to be able to get out, but had to do thing round the house due to missus recovering from knee surgery. Also had to visit my mum who had been in hospital earlier in the week.
-
M -
T - gym - weighted pull ups / rows / deadlifts
W -
T - gym - overhead press / dips / core work
F -
S - Rubicon
S - gym - squat / bench press
-
m-w nowt
th - 10x30 move laps foot-on laddering.
f - trackside with t2. All very clunky.
s- Froggatt with grubes. Enthusiasm evaporated in the heat but plenty mileage.
s - hurt.
-
Too much work again, but I'll take it while it's there. Uni holidays and public holidays mean that this should be the last really hectic week this year.
so STG - A few day visits and weather being good, a last camping trip to Font the last weekend of October. The missus is already getting nervous.
Monday - Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Hottee du diable near Soissons. Nice easy/ low/ family outing.
Sunday - Ache everywhere. Too much time indoors, not enough topping out practice.
Weight - Scales are buggered.
-
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (5 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder thera-band work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (update: knee is feeling good, but possible extensor tendinitis is now holding me back!).
M: BM: max hangs, core & theraband
T: 4m run
W: bouldering at NCC
T: 4.5m run
F-S: travel to Valencia for girlfriend's 30th - too much food and alcohol.
The kind of week I expected, will be the same this week. Feeling quite strong on the BM and climbing well indoors for me at the moment. Hopefully this will lead to a couple of ticks when I can get back out.
-
M : redpoint on wee beastie start felt easier, next time hopefully
T:
w: boulder circuits at the hangar did about 12 whites then got distracted.
T:
F: beastmaker session back three repeaters 2/3 of a repeater session on 45 's( my 45's are piss compared to the hangars ) with nestle and managed 22 pull ups on the large rungs, PB .
S: did north buttress combined with central route and the top pitch of bell vue bastion
on tryfan longest route ive done in britain lovely day.
S: migraine
weight still down at 9st 13 after alps
-
Goals... As of Monday they were: Half Decent (F7c) by the end of the season, F7c+ next season, F8a by 1st Jan 2014....... And 7B+ on grit.... However with the sudden drop in temperature prompting a monumental change in psyche it's going to take a real effort to drag myself to the Tor over the next 2 weeks especially seeing as I have to drive past a number of the eastern edges to get there.... So I might have to leave Half Decent for early next season :whistle:
M: Tor - Full of cold, worked on Push Up - Ouch!!
T: Works - Worked on blue circuit and brown 7c - Good session.
W: Nowt.
T: Works - Worked on brown 7c and finished with foot on campussing - Destroyed.
F: Nowt.
S: Tor - Got on Body Machine - Got shut down, will think twice about TRing this as a warm up again as could hardly string 2 moves together. Worked on Push Up with new beta - Still hurts! Got drunk :slap:
S: Hungover decorating...
Not too bad a week but a bit demoralised after the previous weeks success. Was trying to work out a new project while shredding my skin and decided on Half Decent as it opens up a whole host of routes for next year, contains some pretty independent climbing and has a finish that I'm familiar with meaning it should (read: could possibly) go reasonably quickly... Just not sure my heart's in it this year now so might be one for early next season... Just gotta ensure that I keep up the AeroCap and PE training over the next 6-8 months so I'm not completely unfit if I do decide to call time on the lime...
This week: Bouldering and PE then decide on grit or lime for the weekend...
:D