UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Bonjoy on October 07, 2011, 01:21:11 pm
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Another one ticked off the Black Rocks project list. This one climbs the rib left of Pseudonym. I think the first bit is similar or the same as an E4 6b Rob Mirfin mentioned adding on an old thread finishing on the ramp.
Left of the start of Pseudonym there is a pointed block in the ground, from the top of this reach a rounded flake on the overhanging arete, swing onto this and yard up to the large circular pocket below the hanging slab. Rock right, place gear, then undercut the big pocket to gain a two finger pocket on the hanging slab. Another good pocket on the slab allows you to lean over and place cams in Lone Tree Gully. Rock back right into the first small pocket to join and finish up Pseudonym.
For the start I placed a cam in the start of Lone Tree Gully, one at ground level on Pseudonym to reduce the swing and put a pad on blocks where you’d swing, with these in the whole route is pretty safe. I’ve always thought Pseudonym was a great feature but the moves and pro a bit grim. The moves on Occam's are great though it does get a bit escapable for a move.
Here's pic showing the lines of Occam's in red and Pseudonym in blue:
(http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6234/6219597095_0de839c6ac_z.jpg)
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Nice one Blackjoy. Black Rocks is a pretty aesthetic crag in places isn't it...
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Hi Jon
I'm sure I followed Percy Bishton up a route many years ago that started on the cracked arete just to left and climbed that same top arete. I'll check with the man. I've probably got a dusty slide of it somewhere too.
Cheers
David
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I know he claimed something called Hair Conditioned Nightmare, E4 6b which I think was a direct finish to Runnel Rib, the arete left of The Runnel. But then I met Derek Bolger who mentioned doing that way back. Would that be it Dave?
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What Grimer said. It's called Bad Hair Day. You need to get your memory valves looked at Dave.
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Fair enough fellas. Haven't got a guide with me so didn't look. It just sort of looked familarish. Note to self - always read the guide first.
Yep Grimer that was the name the Bish gave it and doesn't surprise me it had been done before cause it was so obvious. Good though.
Off to Kwikfit to get me valves looked at pronto Jonboy. :whistle:
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Good effort Jon, keen to have a look at this sometime.
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Yep Grimer that was the name the Bish gave it and doesn't surprise me it had been done before cause it was so obvious. Good though.
Off to Kwikfit to get me valves looked at pronto Jonboy. :whistle:
:slap: :chair: Hair Conditioned Nightmare is a route at Baslow. The thing you seconded was called Bad Hair Day (it has to be said a rare moment of clarity given the barnet Percy was sporting back then ;)).
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I dread to think.
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Is the thread-related pun thing perm-anent now?