UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on October 02, 2011, 05:12:38 pm
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STG 7C... (yeah right!)
M:
T:
W:
Th: 60 pressups. Dont know why, but I felt like it!
Fri: Met up with Andy Popp at Helsby - boiling evening, but lovely spot in the shade. Puntered around on some great problems up to 6B ish.. nice to be back on rock for the first time in a couple of weeks...
Sa: Sat in the shade in Tatton Park, ate and drank :)
Su: Managed to get out to a (reasonable) Hobby Moor for about an hour until the rain set in properly.
Good to get back in the saddle again, and visit a new-to-me crag (thanks for the directions Andy). AND, the scales flicked 11st6 on Saturday AM.. back to pre USA visit weight at last... onwards and upwards..
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M-S lots of hard work, disappointment at work and a great day at Galpinos' wedding in Sat
Sun - First run for ages, headed out for an hour over Eccles Pike and Barren Clough. Didn't feel too bad considering I've done sweet FA for ages.
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M: Strength -- chest / arms / abs
T: Rest
W: Bit of a play at The Roaches (non-climbing), Strength -- shoulders / abs
T: Rest
F: Strength -- abs / arms
S: Ziltch (hungover).
S: MTB 21km ride at Cannock. Strength -- abs / chest.
Away on MTB holiday at Exmoor, Dartmoor and Quantocks followed by chilling in St. Ives this week. Then when I return it will hopefully be time to start ramping up the climbing again.
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STG - bouldering / injury free
MTG - new goals needed
LTG - font 7c & F8a
Mon - Theraband shoulder exercises + pushups
Tue - Works: short bouldering sess. Felt tired
Wed - Works: another light session
Thurs - Works: lunchtime. Did new blue bloc circuit as it was going up (good!)
Fri - Theraband shoulder exercises + pushups
Sat - 5km Parkrun in morning. Pleasley vale in pm. Did a few nice probs, inc. the Pinch.
Sun - Family bike ride in am / light bouldering sess at Works in pm
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Goals - as always sadly - 8a and 7C this year
M - TCA after work - circuits session. Started breaking in my new solutions ready for the weekend. Improved links on black 7b+ but didn't link. Worked the start of Gaz's new monster 52 move 8b; first 12 moves to a jug is nails!
Tu - Short circuits session at TCA after work. Improved links on black 7b+ but still haven't finished. Worked some more of the moves on the yellow 8b
W - TCA for more circuits. Fell off penultimate move on black! Worked links on yellow
Th - Rest. Finished emptying my flat and enjoyed a tapas dinner with mum and dad
F - 20 mins of light campussing for recruitment
Sa - Anstesys. Arrived early to meet TobyD but it was already getting hot. Had a few worked goes on TCS but struggled to do the move to the pocket because I was greasing off the sika hold. Sacked it at 1ish by which time the top guppy was feeling like a bar of soap! Toby kindly lent me his draws so i hung around babbacombe for the afternoon and had a couple of burns in the evening but had rested too long and struggled
Su - Back to Ansteys. Another scorching day but marginally better than Sat. Came off sika going for the pocket and split a tip (right ring), stripped Toby's draws and abandoned hope. Temps improved as the afternoon went on so I decided to put sash's draws up for a couple of evening goes with the split tip taped. Struggled with finger lock and then pocket with the tip taped then managed to split my right index tip on the top = FAIL
Frustrating weekend with the heat but I have three months climbing in SW Australia to look forward to so can't be too disheartened - the cider soak will just have to wait for a year or so!
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STG - Cliff tickage
LTG - Font 7b
M - Nowt, went to the missus' for a steak and ale pie.
T - Board session, got loads done and finished up feeling very psyched.
W - Physio, followed by a boiling hot demoralising session at The Depot.
T - Nowt.
F - Depot Summer Bouldering League Final. Wasn't feeling great about it as firstly the hip was still pretty creaky and secondly it was like climbing in an airing cupboard. As it goes I had a fantastic last round, climbed like a man possessed and ended up going from 16th place to 11th overall. Good to meet Willackers as well, who made light work of the problems and won the "final day" prize.
S - Ill-advised 10am board session when still feeling utterly wrecked. Lasted about 30 mins before breaking down.
S - Well earned rest!
So that's the comp done with, it's been a good distraction / focus over the summer and have learned loads about on-sighting, my own weaknesses etc. Just waiting eagerly for temperatures to drop so we can kick this grit bouldering season off now!
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Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (5 done)
5 x 7A (2 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
M: 3xDB complex, 4m run, core & thera-band
T: Bouldering at NCC
W: thera-band & curls
T: 3xDB complex, BM: one arm pyramid, 4m run & thera-band
F: rest
S: Short early bouldering session at the Tor and then a bit of easy trad at Stanage High Neb
S: Bouldering at Gardoms N.
A reasonable week but no goals ticked!
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stg (sep/oct) - this n that
mtg (winter) 7C/Brad Pit
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer
M - Burbage South blocs doing loads of stuff I'd somehow not done before on Liver, Whale, Pigs & Useless blocs
twt felt crap again
f - bit better, thought about going out but decided it was far too warm
s mate & family visited, too warm again so bbq + :beer2: which became :pissed:
s :sick:
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Thanks tomtom
Weight 11.8-5
M. AM. Assisted 1 armers session (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18641.50.html) Eve Dash out to Apparent North with the boys - did the the shortened version of Hampers Hang ;D
T. Foundry. Evening with Poppy and Ben. Bouldered on Wave. Did some Aerocap circuits in Shed after.
W.
T. AM. Encores session (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18641.50.html) Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Did 3x3 AnCap circuits on 40deg board.
F. Eve. Evening. Shed. Blew out trying Oak circuit. Maybe a combination of the heat and not eating enough past couple of days. Only tried twice. Had a nap then did AeroCap session.
S. AM Park run with Poppy. PB for her
S. Chee Dale. OKish conditions. Redpointed Blockhead 4th go!! by the skin of my teeth. Then flashed Daylight Robbery (go figure) Finished off leading Darl with a struggle.
Much better week than last week. Managed to shed a couple of pounds too. Be good to have a stint on the Oak if conditions improve
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I might drop out of Power Club for a while ...
Splitter!
Monday - Thursday - nothing but work. Stopped doing press ups 'cos my elbow got tweaky.
Friday - Hot indoor session.
Saturday - Hot outdoor session - Worked the end of the blue circuit, Isatis backwards, doing lots of stuff I've never done before, plus play around on some other stuff. Lovely day in the forest.
Sunday - shoulder stuff.
Short on goals at the moment.
Weight - 75.2kg
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I was able to add a bit more volume to the bouldering last week, which is encouraging, but I am making no progress with range of movement for the bad shoulder. I was told it would take time but it's pretty depressing and tedious. I might drop out of Power Club for a while ...
Stay with it.
M - Short run
T - The Arch - social visit, gentle play
W - Shoulder exs.
T - Shoulder exs.
F -
S - Pembroke, various E1s and attempt on The Whaler
S - various E1s and Blow Out (E3 - and excellent)
Decent week by virtue of getting up an E3 despite very little recent training and nothing outdoors for 6 weeks.
Pembroke was a bad choice (very damp and humid) but I had a long-standing date for a rematch with The Whaler. This went better than last year in that no-one got benighted or had to swim and prusik up the abseil rope. I think we went 5' too far along the traverse this time and joined A Salty Dog.
The resulting hybrid is probably still worth E3 and, reportedly, a local guidebook writer (we'll call him Paul to preserve his anonymity) made the same mistake/cop-out.
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STG: Get a job, Ripple Effect
MTG: Hunter's Roof
LTG: Grit 7C+
Can't remember what I did last week so I shan't bore you with the details. I'm only posting in here so I've got the goals written down, making them seem more tangible.
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M.bike 3hours 40 mins.
T. Nothing.
W.Nothing. See Consultant who is of the opinion my op has gone well.I just need to avoid heavy lifting for ever.
Th. Weights and deadhanging.More weight on bench press and rows.Also did 8 lbs added weight on 35 degree slopers.
F. Nothing.
S. Weights used the bar for first time in months on b/p and s/p.Deadhanging increased the duration from 6 secs to 8 secs on 2 out the 3 reps. 2 hours trimming the Hawthorne hedge. Bike 2 hours.
Su. Bike 2 hours 17 mins.
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STG: Frankenjura 6b x 2 yyfy :)
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
M: Alpine approach training: 35 mins step-ups w/big rucksack
T: Bike to work 26km
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Start projecting harder routes rather than just trying to onsight everything: burn out at ten metres on a 6b+ and a 6c instead of on 6bs as usual
T:
F:
S: Frankenjura: Hexenküche. Day mostly spent getting accustomed to Frankenjura bolting & grading - neither generous. But also found a 6b that suited me: crimpy steep slab, not many of those in the 'jura. It felt right at the limit on toprope, but convinced myself that if I can toprope it first go, then I can lead it. So I led it.
S: Frankenjura: Röthelfels. More acclimatisation, and with much team encouragement & beta flashed another 6b that is not at all what I would normally regard as my style, swinging around on big juggy pockets.
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Goals: Indecent Direct before it wets out....
M: Isolated hard moves on board, beastmaker and bar.
T: Bouldering and PE @ The works.
W: Office Move - No Climbing.
T: Office Move - No Climbing.
F: Redpointing @ Raven Tor - Too close to redpointing Indecent direct - Led up to foot swap move but slipped off due to it being fecking boiling!
S: London.
S: London.
Not a massive week training wise but did link the bottom of Indecent Direct so it's now been done in 2 overlapping halves, just a matter of time now.
Uber psyched to just get this done now, can't think about anything else! Know if I do the move to the little sidepull after the footswap I'll do the rest... (theoretically :look:)
:D
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STG: 3.5 weeks till Font!
M: Routes at the edge in an attempt to sustain what little fitness I gained over the summer.
T: Fingerboard
W: Works session
T: Nada
F: Too hot for grit, too much condensation for lime. Went to the works instead and did all but 2 of the new blue circuit
S: Nada
S: Wimberry. First grit of the season and probably the best bet given the temperature. Managed a fair collection of 6s. Tried Winsome but it was green and warm.
Nice to be out on the grit but hoping the temperature starts dropping soon. Planning to keep the indoor training up in preparation for Font.