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the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Charlton Chestwig on July 26, 2011, 01:55:38 pm

Title: Powerplant
Post by: Charlton Chestwig on July 26, 2011, 01:55:38 pm

Hi,

Just wondering how the sneeky kneebar works that is reported to make the overlap section a path?

Many thanks for any help you can provide!

CC

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: Ethan on August 11, 2011, 09:08:42 pm

Don't bother, its shit. Just pull hard and power on through it!

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: Paul B on August 12, 2011, 11:21:25 am

photo here:

http://chrislockyer.blogspot.com/2010/05/cheedale-cornice.html (http://chrislockyer.blogspot.com/2010/05/cheedale-cornice.html)

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 12, 2011, 11:52:07 am

All I know is its unusable without a decent kneepad setup.

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: shark on August 12, 2011, 11:59:06 am

I wore through the hessian on a piece of premium grade piece of Hugh McKay bedroom carpet with a sequence that involved swivelling 90 degrees on the kneebar making about 2 foot moves and 5 hand moves.

Towards the end this was the easiest section of the route. 

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: dave on August 12, 2011, 12:25:58 pm

Would you have faired a bit better with an axeminster or wilton? Maybe something designed for a hallway rather than a bedroom.

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: shark on August 12, 2011, 01:03:46 pm

Quote from: dave on August 12, 2011, 12:25:58 pm

Would you have faired a bit better with an axeminster or wilton? Maybe something designed for a hallway rather than a bedroom.

It lasted just long enough  ;D

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: Serpico on August 12, 2011, 01:45:28 pm

Would it not be easier to permanently carpet the underside of the overlap than have everyone bringing individual bits of carpet to the crag? What's the community view on in-situ carpet?

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: dave on August 12, 2011, 01:53:42 pm

I'd like to see DMM destruction testing some shagpile before we make any descision on this.

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 12, 2011, 02:08:05 pm

Fucking hippies.

Title: Re: Powerplant
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 12, 2011, 02:30:04 pm

A few years ago I actually undertook some research, government funded no less (pdf here (http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_pdf/2001/crr01364.pdf), p.31) , into carpet's durability when used for edge protection in rope access. I daresay the results could be extrapolated into the knee/rock interface. Our findings suggested carpet lacks the integrity to withstand localised wear when trapped between rope and rock. Canvas is far superior. Good to know your taxes aren't wasted isn't it? Durable canvas climbing kecks are of course available from Blox of Sheffield (http://www.climblox.com/)....