UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: nai on July 17, 2011, 07:11:56 pm
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stg (season) Cry Of Despair.
mtg (winter) several blocs up to 7c with Brad Pit the main aim
ltg - 8a & E4 next summer
M - went bouldering & had fun, core
t - tired
W - lunch - max hangs; eve - foot-on campusing on new board in garage, bit experimental and turns out the board was a bit steep so have relaxed the angle a bit.
t - rest for Fri
F - worked a better sequence over the lower roof on Cry Of Despair but could find nothing better for the top crux, had two redpoints to that point but was zapped by then. Both attempts contained mistakes though so if I could cut those out then maybe I'll have enough for the two extra moves into the rest.
s - very sore
s - still sore but managed max hangs after a careful warmup, full core + 3 sets planks
Happy with CoD progress, almost didn't bother getting on it but now feel it's possible and super-psyched to get back on it, just hope it stays dry through this rain.
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Not much. A bit of shoulder stuff everyday.
Saturday - indoor session, but a bit lazy and half-hearted.
Weight - 76.0kg
But I don't care, this is my last week before the summer and my last power club post until September.
I'll be in St just, Cantal, Targassonne, Ariege and the Peak for the next 6 weeks. Have a good summer everyone :2thumbsup:.
O, the joys of teaching...
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STG - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG - font 7c & F8a
Mon -
Tue - CD Cornice. Worked Cry of Despair again, made it through the crux only to fall off. Refined sequences and beta.
Wed -
Thurs - CD Cornice. Got Cry of Despair on 3rd redpoint attempt of the day! :-) First F7c so well chuffed..
Fri -
Sat - 5km run in morning (21:22), routes at Foundry in afternoon.
Sun - Destroyed!
Really good week :-)
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F - worked a better sequence over the lower roof on Cry Of Despair but could find nothing better for the top crux, had two redpoints to that point but was zapped by then. Both attempts contained mistakes though so if I could cut those out then maybe I'll have enough for the two extra moves into the rest.
What sequence are you using for the top crux? Rock up to sloper with right hand, flag left foot behind right. Bring LH into crimp then RH up to sidepull and then pull up into the groove?
I'm sure you are doing (but just in case) - remember to visualise the moves before you set off to help eliminate any mistakes.
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STG: Powerplant
Away with work this week so limited opportunity to climb.
M - Nada
T - Nada
W - Bouldering at Redpoint centre
T - Nada
F - Fairly comprehensive Beastmaker session
S - AM. 2 hours of circuits at the works. PM. More fingerboarding
S - Nada
Away next weekend in Yorkshire with family commitments (but might try to sneak out to Malham / Kilnsey for an afternoon if I can). After that I'll be back down the Cornice.
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YYFY I can climb again :dance1:
W - Scafell Crag, nearly threw up on the walk in (first exercise in three months!). Went off route on an MVS on my first route after the layoff, ended up doing a pitch of E1. Not the gentle reintroduction to climbing I wanted! Got lost on the descent. Then managed a VS in slightly better style. I am such a punter at mountain shenanigans.
T - Hare Crag, first experience on granite.
F - The Roaches, did Valkyrie and Elegy, both brilliant. Pissed around on boulders, one handed twatting about etc. Sadly, I am not Johnny Dawes. I did manage to recreate The Quarryman sequence while seconding a Severe though 8)
S - High Rocks. Onsighted a no star UK 5c, redpointed a linkup of that into a 6a finish. Felt like the living end, despite the hands off rest in the middle. Couldn't do the crux on Krait Arete!
S - got rained on.
I'm back. New goals are as follows:
Do as many brilliant/classic/famous/notorious/horrible routes as possible.
Climb loads on different rock types in lots of different styles.
Become less shit at multipitch trad.
Comici Route
Learn to climb at High Rocks again - Krait Arete, Fungal Smear, Dyno-Sore, Renascence, Second Generation
F8a when finger is fully recovered.
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Weight 11.4-6
M
T.
W.
T.
F. AM. Tor. Went up BM to practice moves on linkup but undercut still unstable. Dogged up Anger Management / top section of Rage. HARD long move left - too hard for me and a shoulder wrecker? 2nd go dogged up BM and TRed Rage - discovered the hardish last move too. Did the lower crux move left to get right side of block but not able to get across to share. Came down. Coundnt get nozzle off glue gun so jumared up to strip BM. At least got jumaring with a gri-gri dialled now.
S. PM Foundry with kids. Rammed. Some bouldering.
S. AM. Tor. Minty conditions except when the rain blew in. Glued undercut and dogged up BM to TR Anger Mgt/Rage 3x. Decided that stretch left was morpho, shit, hard and more importantly can't do it. But going direct to the 'non-break' and then moving left is far more sustained, logical and more importantly can do it. Makes more sense to link the route from Prow rather than BM. Got quite psyched.Eve. Short sess on pullup bar.
After last Sunday's success felt a bit low and off colour (glands up in neck) so took 4 days off. Keen to get back into saddle as hopefully the holds will now stay on project and the way I've decided to do the Anger Management/ top of Rage is inspiring - possibly 8a+ ??
Train hard this week, lose the poundage gained and hopefully get out to Tor one morning this week - anyone interested ???
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But I don't care, this is my last week before the summer and my last power club post until September.
I'll be in St just, Cantal, Targassonne, Ariege and the Peak for the next 6 weeks. Have a good summer everyone :2thumbsup:.
O, the joys of teaching...
Sweet. Have a good one
Thurs - CD Cornice. Got Cry of Despair on 3rd redpoint attempt of the day! :-) First F7c so well chuffed..
Tremendous - well done :great:
YYFY I can climb again :dance1:
Good times !!
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What sequence are you using for the top crux? Rock up to sloper with right hand, flag left foot behind right. Bring LH into crimp then RH up to sidepull and then pull up into the groove?
I'm sure you are doing (but just in case) - remember to visualise the moves before you set off to help eliminate any mistakes.
Pretty much, it's not so much of a rock up as a desperate slap using a heel-toe on the triangular hold you come off the gaston for, thought there might be a kneebar to be had around there but it'd be more time consuming/strenuous to get it in than just do the move. I'll investigate just rocking up though as removing the heel-toe caused me to come off on the second attempt.
It wasn't a lack of seeing the moves but not taking the gaston well enough to press it out and having to swap the lemon for an undercut that caused failure second go, think it was surprise to have gotten that far on the first go.
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STG: Alpine (sport) rock route >= 10 pitches, >= 6a
Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
Alpine build-up programme for LTG routes:
Sport multipitch harder than LTG routes: >= 6b, >= 10 pitches
Long easy alpine trad routes to get used to long days, routefinding, complicated descents, efficient ropework etc.
Hard-ish Alpine trad but not as long/hard as LTG routes - e.g. Messner on Sella Towers, Grosse Micheluzzi, Oberreintal routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes e.g. Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (anything: Fish probably unlikely), Salbit south and/or west ridge
Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
In which work, family, sore throat & booze bring about an unplanned & not very restful "rest" week
M: Weights, office gym: Goblet squats, db snatches, shoulders, core
T: Biergarten with colleagues
W: Hangover, sore throat
T: bike to work 25km
F: Summer party at son's school: beer, music, fireworks. Excellent
S: Boulderwelt. Unsurprisingly weak attempts at new 6A/B circuit. Got up some things, but the consequences of more doing routes (and drinking beer) than bouldering of late are clear to see.
S: Friend's birthday party in biergarten. Bike 20km to & from.
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Tue - CD Cornice. Worked Cry of Despair again, made it through the crux only to fall off. Refined sequences and beta.
Past the sloper and came off, that'd be an ouch?
Thurs - CD Cornice. Got Cry of Despair on 3rd redpoint attempt of the day! :-) First F7c so well chuffed..
Nice one, 3rd redpoint, reckon I've only got two attempts in me per day, it's a bit physical.
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Cheers, yep a little frustrating to get to the sloper and come off 2 moves later - but was still learning the sequence and thankfully got it 2 days later.
It's a great route, good luck with it!!!
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YYFY I can climb again :dance1:
Great news Ian! you must be psyched out of you mind after such a long layoff
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Goals as always. Mark thanks for your thoughts last week. You're probably right about cider soak, especially as I've failed to get on a rope again this week, but I need to have a session on it ASAP before I give up the dream!
M - rest
Tu - Circuits session at TCA. Worked the full link on the 7a+ fingery circuit on the less steep board, got consistently shut down 3 moves from the end by two micro-crimps. Had a few tries on the bouldery white 7c+ but didn't manage to extend my links. A fairly poor session really...
Finished myself off with some BM work , deadhangs on 45s + pull ups on 35s and small edges.
We - Short session at TCA. Planned pyramid of circuits, did 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+, 6c but then, while waiting to depump a bit before having a go on my red 7a nemesis, I got distracted by the last of the yellows, which were all flashed.
Th - Lunchtime powerball session - 10 mins alternating hands every 30-45 seconds, enough to get a good pump without trashing me for whatever the evening brings - not that specific to climbing but a better use of the time than just sitting done smoking rollies so something I'll try to do regularly going forward. After work squeezed in a short session at TCA, did the crux for the first time on a 7B on the mothership but only in isolation. Bumbled round some more problems but left after less than 2 hours.
F - TCA session after work. Decided to try warming up without tape and warmed up on easy problems. Finger felt solid so jumped onto the steep circuit board and did the red 7a first go; even the last move that'd had me off repeatedly felt easy! Followed up with my best links on white 7c+ circuit. Cruised through the first crux (7-8) then got the feet wrong through the 2nd (13-14). Now done in 3...
Sa - Crappy changeable weather so yet another day on rock aborted. Spent the afternoon at TCA. 3.5 hours doing problems and feeling strong (finger untaped and no bother, YYFY!). Finished session with 1 go on the white circuit just to see how it felt. Cruised though previous highpoint feeling relaxed then fell off 17 when I missed my foothold. Got back on and climbed from 16-22 then slipped matching then finished from 22.
Su - Rest, golf, big steak and a decent red!
Weight - average for week 67.0kg back on target. Saturday morning's weigh in was the lightest I've been for a year, 66.0kg, which goes some way to explaining why the white felt easier than before!
Although this has been another extremely TCA-centric week it's the first week for ages that I've been able to do 5 days on and as a result I have made what feel like significant gains. Psyched to maintain the volume and convert the PE gains I've made into some actual routes getting climbed!
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Great news Ian! you must be psyched out of you mind after such a long layoff
I am psyched off my tits! Glad the finger's sorting itself out. Get yer arse down to Anstey's ASAP! You'll certainly never climb Cider Soak if you never try it....
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Mon.Feeling a bit rough not sure whether I'm tired or ill.Decide I'm being wimpy so bike 1 hr.Start to feel really ill.
Tue. Bad guts all day.Do nothing except drive missus o Leeds for eye op.
Wed. Feeling a bit better so Rockcity just repeating stuff.
Thu.Bad guts again.Docs I've got some none specific virus(although this may be just a fob of when theres nothing wrong with you).
Fri.Drive missus to Leeds for op follow up.Still feeling rough and also lower back going in to spasm.
Sat.Feeling much better.Leeds wall climb ok apart from feeling feverish.Manage a couple of reds.
Sun.Rockcity just repeat stuff.Back goes in to spasm afterwards.
A bit of a shit week.
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STG : redpoint echoes 7a +
robert duvall fb 7a
royal plume e2 6a
m : rest
t : 15 mile mountain bike loop 1:24:08 PB felt good
w : wandered around arenig looking for new routes found a possible e5 and hard looking boulder.ruthin did metamorphisis 6b to warm up then did a direct start on top rope
then led it, high ball to the first bolt. first ascent 6b. tried a variation on fritallary flake possibly 7a but no joy
t : shoulder stuff
f : dogged up echoes couldnt do it on top rope
s: little walk cyffyliog found chossy slate crags
s : dogged up echoes found a no hands rest on toprope nearly did it in a oner on top rope in monsoon rain ;D
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What sequence are you using for the top crux? Rock up to sloper with right hand, flag left foot behind right. Bring LH into crimp then RH up to sidepull and then pull up into the groove?
I'm sure you are doing (but just in case) - remember to visualise the moves before you set off to help eliminate any mistakes.
Pretty much, it's not so much of a rock up as a desperate slap using a heel-toe on the triangular hold you come off the gaston for, thought there might be a kneebar to be had around there but it'd be more time consuming/strenuous to get it in than just do the move. I'll investigate just rocking up though as removing the heel-toe caused me to come off on the second attempt.
Sounds like my problem on Powerplant.......
I don't think I used a heel-toe on CoD (just put my foot on that triangular hold). I do remember rocking right (as if I was going to put the knee bar in but without actually putting it in if that makes sense), then using a tiny undercut for the right hand to gain a bit more height before going again with my right hand to the sloper.
Good luck next time around.
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Goals:
deal with my Yorkshire lime ticklist (4/12 sent)
try not to forget how to climb trad (well, i might have done... been a while)
relearn how to boulder from depths of past (in progress...)
M rest, job apps, run 4 miles or so
T Kilnsey: reached high point on urgent action for 4th time (last hard move)
W rest, apply for jobs...chilled solo circuit of VS - E1 at almscliff; 10 pitches
T Kilnsey: urgent pretty spoogy; less successful redpoints
F yoga, rest and job apps
S Kilnsey: couple of goes at UA, decide rests too wet, get annoyed, almost do dead calm. couple of training goes on comedy
S Kilnsey: dead calm first redpoint; bullet worked twice, linked crux section twice from rest; psyched. quick go on 50 for 5.
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Very nearly flashed a Font 6C this week but failed to latch the last hold. Got it second go though and that makes it a PB :)
M: Rest
T: Bouldering at Churnet. Really intense session, felt good and climbed well.
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: 4 x 12 Pull-ups. Beastmaker session: Fr2, M2 (15kg weighted), B2 x 3 sets
S: Shortish session at Churnet. Font 6C on second go and a few other bits. Very happy with the quick 6C.
S: Beastmaker session consisting of repeaters -- Set 1: 35º Slopers, M2, B2, F2. Set 2: 35º Slopers, 4FO. 7 on / 3 off x 2 sets.
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STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically In Pembroke end of July. 6C.
MTG: E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.
M- Rest.
T- Rest.
W- Horseshoe.
T- Rest.
F- Nothing.
S- Nothing.
S- Swimming.
Visiting non-climbing friends and family at the weekend has meant little this week.
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Finally getting back in the saddle:
STG:
M-T Italy eating and drinking then work
F- work, gentle run pm
S -New Mills Tors Circuits and bouldering to 7a then Row + Weights (Snatch drills and Power Cleans) + Tabata thrusters 4 mins.
S - 10k row and fingerboard.
Had a great sess on the fingerboard and gym today too. Also growing a beard for extra psyche and badassness.
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Tabata thrusters 4 mins.
<sn**ger>
glad to here you are back in the game :2thumbsup:
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Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again
M: 3xDb complex, BM: pull-ups & max hangs, theraband
T: long day at work
W: longer day at work
T: 40l swim, press-ups & BM: assorted pull-ups
F: theraband, 3xDB complex & 4m run
S: bouldering at Notts wall
S: Ill
A busy week at work and a wet weekend, rubbish. Looks as though the summer may be about avoiding any loss of strength/fitness rather than making any major gains as I have hardly any weekends free until September.
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Goals - as before
Week in Dolomiti
M - Finlandia on Cinque Torre
T - Strategic rest day
W - Comici on Cima Grande
T - Tired!
F - Route of Friendship on Piz Ciavazes
S - Still tired from Comici
S - Yellow Edge on Cima Piccola
Great to get Comici done. Fell off the crux and grabbed a peg so not a flawless ascent but at 7am with 13 pitches to go mountain rules applied. I can now stop looking at this (http://www.umbriameteo.com/trecime/) every couple of hours. Now have a whole new set of LTGs.
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:great: props!!
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Bit late filing last week's report but it's a fairly easy one.
M - Still deaf in left ear, did nowt apart from view car in eve.
T - Got ear syringed, what a relief! Trained on board in eve, felt a bit fat and crap.
W - Caley eve, nearly got Mr Smooth SDS and almost repeated The Horn (the 7a+ one), felt less fat and crap.
T - Off to London for mate's leaving do. Many beers.
F - 9 holes of golf and a Malaysian curry in the eve
S - Chap Olympiad in the rain. Many G+Ts.
S - Hungover session at The Arch in London Bridge, climbed remarkably well considering.