UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: David S on June 27, 2011, 12:06:27 pm
-
Hi all
For some reason I've decided that I'd like to phtograph all of the 8c's and above in the UK. Obviously inspired by the who's climbed 8c and above thread. Now I know this will talke forever but it gives me something to do for the next ?? years.
Anway the list I've compiled so far is below and if there's any I've missed then please let me know.
All the best
David
Scotland
Steal Wall, Glen Nevis
Ring of Steall (8c+)
The Anvil
Hunger (9a)
Blood Diamond (8c+)
Metalcore (8c+)
Body Swerve (8c)
Dumbuck
Devastation Generation (8c)
Yorkshire
Malham
Overshadow (9a/9a+)
Rainshadow (9a)
Total Ecli[pse (8c+)
Unjustified (8c)
Transformer (8c)
Kilnsey
North Star (9a+)
Northern Lights (9a)
Progression (8c)
Progress (8c+)
True North (8c)
Giggleswick
Violent New Breed (9a+)
Peak District
Raven Tor
Mutation (9a)
Kaabah (8c+)
Hubble (8c+)
Make it Funky (8c)
Mega Whore (8c)
Mecca Extension (8c)
Evolution (8c)
Mutation (9a)
Hooligan (8c)
Stevolution (9a)
Hajj (8c)
Water cum Jolly
Bastard (8c)
Chee Dale
Dreadnaught (8c)
Somehow Super (8c)
Wales
Lower Pen Trywn
Liquid Ambar (8c)
Big Bang (9a)
Sea of Tranquility (8c+)
Infanticide (8c)
Cheddar
Bristol's Got Talent (8c)
South Coast
Anstey's Cove
Brian (8c)
-
Total Eclipse @ Malham? Or did Ondra downgrade it?
-
Echo Wall?
-
Hasn't Stunning done a 8c at Giggleswick? Tonto or summat??
-
Few more here:
Bat Route @ Malham
Bat Shadow @ Malham
Tonto @ Gigg North
-
Hasn't Stunning done a 8c+ at Giggleswick? Tonto or summat??
Computer says yes.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=156801 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=156801)
-
I forgot, Magnetic North @ Kilnsey
-
Would Going Down count?
-
Would Going Down count?
No its not a route
-
Rooster Crossing - 8c at Raven Tor
-
Would Going Down count?
No its not a route
It's a route from one end of the crag to the other...
-
And it wouldn't exactly be difficult to photograph so it may as well be included :shrug:
-
Cheddar - Chris Savage's direct finish to Empire Strikes Back (cant remember what its called but def 8c)
Also, Brian is considered by all right thinking people to be 8c+ (which is reflected in the latest rockfax)
-
Nice one. So list so far is:
Scotland
Steal Wall, Glen Nevis
Ring of Steall (8c+)
The Anvil
Hunger (9a)
Blood Diamond (8c+)
Metalcore (8c+)
Body Swerve (8c)
Dumbuck
Devastation Generation (8c)
Yorkshire
Malham
Overshadow (9a/9a+)
Rainshadow (9a)
Total Eclipse (8c+)
Unjustified (8c)
Transformer (8c)
Bat Shadow (8c)
Bat Route (8c)
Kilnsey
North Star (9a+)
Northern Lights (9a)
Progress (8c+)
Magnetic North (8c+)
True North (8c)
Giggleswick
Violent New Breed (9a+)
Tonto (8c+)
Peak District
Raven Tor
Mutation (9a)
Kaabah (8c+)
Hubble (8c+)
Make it Funky (8c)
Mega Whore (8c)
Mecca Extension (8c)
Evolution (8c)
Mutation (9a)
Hooligan (8c)
Stevolution (9a)
Hajj (8c)
Rooster Crossing (8c)
Water cum Jolly
Bastard (8c)
Chee Dale
Dreadnaught (8c)
Somehow Super (8c)
Wales
Lower Pen Trywn
Liquid Ambar (8c)
Big Bang (9a)
Sea of Tranquility (8c+)
Infanticide (8c)
Cheddar
Bristol's Got Talent (8c)
Chris Savage's direct finish to Empire Strikes Back (8c)
South Coast
Anstey's Cove
Brian (8c+)
-
Isn't Overshadow confirmed 9a+ and Northern Star 9a/+ (from AO's repeats).
-
Isn't Overshadow confirmed 9a+ and Northern Star 9a/+ (from AO's repeats).
Either way they're both > 8c so it doesn't really matter.
-
Cheddar - Chris Savage's direct finish to Empire Strikes Back (cant remember what its called but def 8c)
The Death Star, innit?
-
that's it. bet it makes a balls photo. Savage is hoping to go up BGT again to get some vid footage, this might be your best bet of getting photos as people aren't really lining up to try it!
-
Did he come up with the name for BGT?
-
Yes, it alludes to the statement in the CC Avon and Cheddar guide that the project which became BGT was 'too hard for Bristol climbers'. Personally I think its a shit name, but there you go.
-
Cheers. FWIW I agree with you.
-
Yes, it alludes to the statement in the CC Avon and Cheddar guide that the project which became BGT was 'too hard for Bristol climbers'. Personally I think its a shit name, but there you go.
I'd be surprised if that's true, considering it was bolted for Chris to try. I expect it has more to do with the rebolting efforts by locals around the time of the ascent.
-
Thanks on the heads up about BGT. Can anyone PM Chris' contact details so I can talk to him about it.
Cheers
David
-
YHM
-
is this badboy not regarded as 8c anymore?
(http://www.steve-mcclure.com/bigpic/album1/images/web_carter_vbig8c.jpg)
-
8b+?
-
8b+
-
piss then. ignore me.
-
I'd be surprised if that's true, considering it was bolted for Chris to try. I expect it has more to do with the rebolting efforts by locals around the time of the ascent.
I definitely remember that quote being in the old topo or old guide too. Sadly I lost the previous edition of the topo and my CC guide is in the car, but that text definitely appeared in one or the other of them.
I thought it was a pretty old project (there was at least one route that was described as having a mortgage for the bolts payable to F Haden or some such, I thought it was this one although obviously could be mistaken), but then thats just based on the text quoted above, which sort of suggested it had been there for a while.
-
Batshadow 8c+, Malham
-
Thanks Roberto
-
Yes, it alludes to the statement in the CC Avon and Cheddar guide that the project which became BGT was 'too hard for Bristol climbers'. Personally I think its a shit name, but there you go.
I'd be surprised if that's true, considering it was bolted for Chris to try. I expect it has more to do with the rebolting efforts by locals around the time of the ascent.
Not every beast has to be all self-effacing, even though it seems to be expected these days!
-
Is the "Bastard" not regarded as 8c+ by those in the know?
A few friends have tried it recently with talk of font 8B climbing!
-
I was also under the impression that BGT was the old 'too hard for Bristol climbers' project. If it's not then the name is even worse.
-
Okay so now we have a list. And you all love list's so here's a new challenge. Who's climbed what?
I've added what I know but if you can fill in any (and I'm know there's plenty) that I've missed.
Here's the list:
Scotland
Steal Wall, Glen Nevis
Ring of Steall (8c+) MacLeod
The Anvil
Hunger (9a) Smith
Blood Diamond (8c+) Smith
Metalcore (8c+) MacLeod, Smith
Body Swerve (8c) MacLeod, Smith
Dumbuck
Devastation Generation (8c) MacLeod, Smith, Redpath
Yorkshire
Malham
Overshadow (9a+) McClure, Ondra
Rainshadow (9a) McClure, Ondra
Total Eclipse (8c+) Dunne
Unjustified (8c) Mitchell, Cassidy, Whittaker, Marks, Jeewooth, Smith, Parry, Buys, Napier, Walker
Transformer (8c) Smith
Bat Shadow (8c+) McClure
Bat Route (8c) Leach, McClure, Mawson
Kilnsey
Northern Star (9a/+) McClure
Northern Lights (9a) McClure
Progress (8c+) Moffatt
Magnetic North (8c+) McClure
True North (8c) Mitchell, Parry, Vickers, Sutton, Savage, Buys
Giggleswick
Violent New Breed (9a+) Gaskins
Tonto (8c+) Dunning
Peak District
Raven Tor
Mutation (9a) McClure
Kaabah (8c+) McClure, Pasquill
Hubble (8c+) Moon, McClure
Make it Funky (8c) Zippy, McClure
Mega Whore (8c) McClure
Mecca Extension (8c) McClure, Clark
Evolution (8c) Moffatt, McClure
Mutation (9a) McClure
Hooligan (8c) Dunning, Adams
Stevolution (9a) McClure
Hajj (8c) McClure, Smitton,
Rooster Crossing (8c) McClure
Water cum Jolly
The Bastard (8c+?) Welford. McClure, Simpson
Chee Dale
Dreadnaught (8c) McClure
Somehow Super (8c) McClure
Wales
Lower Pen Trywn
Liquid Ambar (8c) Moffatt, Robins
Big Bang (9a) Carson
Sea of Tranquility (8c+) Moon, Robins
Infanticide (8c) Carson, Robins
Cheddar
Bristol's Got Talent (8c) Savage
Death Star (8c) Savage
South Coast
Anstey's Cove
Brian (8c+) Palmer
Total 42
-
Nic Sellars did (at least) Progress and Evolution (which is generally thought to be 8c+ now).
Al Cassidy has done True North.
And you can add have another look at me for Mecca Extension, Make it Funky and Unjustified...
-
Also, Make it Funky ascents that I know about include
Moon, Heap, Barker (before hold breakage)
Ru Davies after hold breakage.
And you've forgotten Paul Reeve's ascent of Unjustified, which is.
-
Malc has done True North and Progress as well.
-
Welford did MiF too.
-
How could anyone forget Paul Reeve's Unjustified moment!
-
Okay, a few in addition to what others have added:
Ste Mac has done Transformer, Progress, True North and Unjustified
Ondra has done Northern Lights and North Star and Bat Route
Savage has done Progress
Gaskins has done Hubble
Simpson has possibly done Hubble and Liquid Ambar
Dunning has done Hubble
Pasquill has done Evolution
I also think Caff may have done Infanticide
-
I think Mutation is on the list twice by the way!
-
Smitton has done Mecca Extension, Hooligan, Kaabah.
and Malc has done Hubble as well.
-
Simpson has possibly done Hubble and Liquid Ambar
:worms:
-
So what's interesting are the routes that Ste Mac hasn't done. Apart from Scotland, Wales, Cheddar and South Coast (13 in total), what's left in the Peak and Yorkshire are:
Total Eclipse (8c+)
Violent New Breed (9a+)
Tonto (8c+)
Hooligan (8c)
It's about time he pulled his finger out and stopped mucking about ;)
-
Also the most popular routes (so far) are:
at 8c Unjustified 13 ascents, True North with 9 and Make it Funky with 8.
At 8c+ we have Hubble with 6, Progress with 5 and Evolution with 4
At 9a we have Rainshadow (2), Northern Lights (2)
and finally at 9a+ we have Overshadow and North Star with 2 each.
-
You're missing a few:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17854.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17854.0.html)
-
Thanks Jasper, missed those.
It's an ongoing list so I'm sure it will change more times before it's complete with the help of good folk like yourself.
-
I do like a good list! Can people add dates to these ascents? The climbing standards versus economic deprivation correlation needs plotting!
For some reason I've decided that I'd like to phtograph all of the 8c's and above in the UK.
When the magazine article comes out, will you be crediting ukb, unlike a recent piece on UK strong boys and girls?
-
I don't think UKB actually wanted to be associated with that outdated, inaccurate article that missed out the most significant UK female bouldering ascent of the year / ever. :jab: :P
-
I didn't start it for an article, I just had an idea to photograph all the routes as a bit of a long term project. The list has sort of evolved from that really. When finished I was maybe going to put it all together in a 'print on demand' book or on a website but who knows? But if I did do something in an outdated stylee then of course I would credit UKB if that would help gather more info.
Dates would be good too. In fact maybe style of shoe, clothing, days working it etc. Anything really. The world's a lobster.