UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: dave on June 20, 2011, 08:53:35 am
-
Few questions: anyone done the mono bulge problem at burbage, on the block underneath boyager? Just asking cos every time I look at this it doesn't reek of 7a. That as assuming that it takes the face towards the right side, maybe with right arete for your hand, mono in left hand?
The BMC guide says something like "the bulge on big holds", which is pretty noncommital, especially as there aren't any big holds. You do have to wonder if this one is just a glint in the guildebook writers eye. I forgot to check in the BMC book if a first ascentionists name is given.
Secondly, did a problem last night on that block, the left arete, mono for your right hand. Its really really good and deserves some traffic. Felt about 7bish, possibly/probably new? Question?
-
the new problem here is top quality. Steep, powerful, 8 moves, brilliant. You all should go and seek it out. It isn't remotely shit, there are no hidden rules, it's pure quality at the busiest crag in the peak
-
It's at Horseshoe Quarry?!
-
I couldn't figure out if Mono Bulge was the left or the right line, and it has never been clean enough to figure out, without alot of work when I've been there. I assumed the slab/ plinth at the bottom was in, given that it is described as a sitter.
-
Dave's problem is the left line from the very back using the mono hold with your right hand. If someone claims that they've done this before I'll take some convincing. I'm sure Dave will get a photo up soon to get your juices flowing.
-
If someone claims that they've done this before I'll take some convincing.
Why's that?
(I paid your money in yesterday, cheers).
-
Mainly lot's of big pebbles falling of the main holds when brushing. If the problem had every been climbed before the climber must've been very light.
Ta
-
Fair do's.
Did you guys do Bubble while you were there?
-
Dave did it. my finger didn't like it. Seemed like a good problem. Tried the low start?
-
No. What would that be? Lying down, hands on the lip, or something else?
-
I looked at what is now bubble a few years back and envisaged it starting on the block underneath, coming out to what are now the starting holds (heel on block, easy moves), then a pretty hard footkick/swing to get left out on the pebble over left and hence into bubble. Became clear that move would be quite hard and boney on that crimp so I left it, plus I was never convinced that it wasn't a bit too low and pokey enough to properly try to clean it. I think I made the mistake of assuming the bubble start move would be piss (without actually trying it) and hence wrote off starting at the lip as being not worthwhile, whereas it turns out when its clean its a nice problem.
I couldn't figure out if Mono Bulge was the left or the right line, and it has never been clean enough to figure out, without alot of work when I've been there. I assumed the slab/ plinth at the bottom was in, given that it is described as a sitter.
I recon if mono bulge as per the guide description has actually be done then it must be the RH line. Dunno where it would start, back of plinth seems obvious but then that might be impossible to "sit" start in the literal sense. You could start it sitting on the big block, hand in mono, other on arete, maybe thats it? Still hard to fathom it being 7a - the topout alone looks 7a!
-
I wrote that section although I'm hazy about it now, thank god. Often doing these places (remember, it had never been documented before) you (by that I mean 'I') are (and by that I mean 'was') going on little bits that people tell you, rumours and conjecture, multiplied by failures and laziness. Sometimes these are wrong. But, like the Doors of Perception, I get the impressions that authors walk away from doing guidebooks with a much shakier belief in SCIENCE that they walk towards them with.
I'll check my measurements, but maybe 7a is wrong.
-
Grimer - I'm sure i'd heard there was a problem on the mono years before the burbage guide was out, maybe it was recorded on a website back in the day, like the UKB problems list, or topbouldering or keith turtons site or something like that.
Photo of the new thing:
(http://www.daveparryphotography.co.uk/wordpress/wp-content/gallery/blogshots/dp_monoblock.jpg)
(taken by scouse)
note lack of tickmarks, lets keep it this way.
-
Well it seems perfectly plusible that I heard that too, and therefore the liklihood of me having completely made it up must be seen as negligable. :)
-
I cleaned and climbed Mono Bulge today from a low start (hands matched on base block). Very good but certainly no 7a, I'd say 7b was more like it (harder than Boyager, a touch easier than Monochrome). The line I took gained the pocket/edge then the arete, cut loose, slap into groove then the nose and move left to climb the centre of the overhang.
Also cleaned and climbed the 6b lip trav (called Ripple Riser in the Burbage Guide) along the face to the right of Mono Bulge.
-
Nice one! When we were there I couldn't see a 7a looking sequence on that, infact couldn't read it at all. Makes sense that its harder.
-
Will chase Farrar up about where original started. Sit start on the block seemed like 7a+ (Burbage guide gives it V7 so this would make sense) and stand start about 6c/+. The low block start adds a good powerful cutloose (looks dabby but isn't really) a la Brass Monkeys.
Ironically the mono is barely used except as a foothold.
-
A few years ago, Dawid told me he'd done some problems on a block near boyager...just found the thread
He says he did the left arete of Boyager with a big leap for the jug, sometime in 2000. He thought 7b/+ at the time.
He also did a couple of other problems on a steep boulder near there. One going up left and one up right. He can't remember the grades, but they might be 7's.
Could that be this, or is it something else? I could ask for some details, but he probably won't remember much.
-
Maybe. There was also a possible RH finish to Mono Bulge involving swinging onto RHS of arete (probably easier than the LH finish but not as good) to confuse matters and possible lines on the steep face to the right.
Yeah, might as well ask him.
-
Here's a rough topo for anyone still confused
(http://peakbouldering.info/photos/1016.jpg?1335952110)
-
Cheers for that - very useful
-
Iain said he'd never climbed mono bulge it's a guide mistake. He did however climb the wall to the right of it trending leftwards. So sit start n climb leftwards kind of on the prow but not underneath it if u know what I mean. U can see the handholds on the wrong way facing flakes
-
Is the brown line on the right a problem or a twig?
-
Good team here last night. Monochrome and Mono Bulge saw some repeats. I climbed a RH finish to Mono Bulge and two up lines on the right face. I’ll give names and grades for now in lieu of further details from Dave and Iain. I couldn’t really figure Iain’s line you described Dense, I’ll call him and try to clarify. Anyway, provenance aside, here’s some descriptions for the most logical lines from my perspective:
Mono Bulge RH 7b – As per Mono Bulge but swing right at the nose to top out as per Ripple Riser. A touch easier than the normal finish I thought.
Asylum Sika 7b – Sit start on the leftmost thin flake head up and right to the good holds midway along the lip, finish up Ripple Riser. It’s an eliminate in so far as you could avoid the difficulty (and good moves) by dropping down into the flake on SD and the base block is out. I did a very subtle glue job on the creaky start flake, unfortunately so subtle that it failed (without the hold breaking off). I’ll go back and do a better job, but please treat gently in the meantime. Not a striking line but it climbs really nicely. Pretty sure this one is an FA as the key foothold is new i.e. it’s what’s left after I broke a tiny flake off.
Snappy Duds 6b+ - Sit start on the middle flake, slap up the good holds on the lip and top out direct
(http://peakbouldering.info/photos/1017.jpg)
PS. Cheers Dave for the name Asylum Sika. Have had on my list of ones to use for years, waiting for a suitable problem/route.
-
Monochrome 7b on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41565553)
little vid of monochrome.
-
Monochrome 7b on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41565553)
little vid of monochrome.
Vertebrate graphics looking hard at work there ;)
-
Hey man, that's way after we finish work at 1pm...
-
what's the consensus on grade, been given 7B there but I recall Dave mooting 7B+ originally?
-
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18304.0.htm (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18304.0.htm)!l
"7bish"
-
Ahh, yes
maybe should have looked back at that first. Also answers questions I had re the landing.
Cheers
-
good to see all this keeness.monochrome was one of my fave problems of last year, really quality moves
-
Nice one Leeroy. Sorry about all my moving around spoiling your continuity!
-
Nice edit Leeroy.
-
Sorry about all my moving around spoiling your continuity!
Ditto, I had a sudden realisation I'd stood right in the way on that last go.
-
Sorry about all my moving around spoiling your continuity!
Ditto, I had a sudden realisation I'd stood right in the way on that last go.
yeh you pull a great expression on the vid when you realise :)
no worries about continuity, main purpose is to show the moves anyway.
-
Jon, Iain's prob goes up for asylum sika and breaks leftwards at the "A" on the pic. Basically if u were to bring the red line of mono bulge rh in an inch u would have the line of Iain's prob. Don't get me wrong it looks shit
-
Just watched monochrome vid, it looks a superb prob. I know where I'll be tomorrow night
-
In the attic with a blurred fist?
-
Yes but that's after light fades
-
Well 'Asylum Sika' is basically Le Proue without the high kick at the start. Soft 8a they're saying.
-
No point gettin on that then if there's no high feet. Will stick to the others
-
Jon, Iain's prob goes up for asylum sika and breaks leftwards at the "A" on the pic. Basically if u were to bring the red line of mono bulge rh in an inch u would have the line of Iain's prob. Don't get me wrong it looks shit
Went back this morn to glue flake properly (hopefully sorted now) and had another look at this. I think I get what Iain climbed but I'm pretty sure the obvious breakage of the middle flake has made it a much harder and less logical line. Looks like the flake might have been a good foothold (maybe a heel-toe) which would have made it possible to gain the arete using the blind rails. Probably still doable though but looks at least three grades harder than the 7a it was given.
-
these look like a cracking set of probs, can't wait to climb at that grade again and go and tick them
-
these look like a cracking set of probs, can't wait to climb at that grade again and go and tick them
How is the arm getting on Jim?
-
Another couple of ascents of Monochrome today. I'd echo what's been said, it's a class problem, can't believe it went undiscovered for so long.
I went out early this morning with only 2 mats and it would have felt nicer with either a third pad and / or a spot. Disappointingly it was covered it tick marks, suffice to say these were all removed before I left. Given all the chalk from recent ascents it's not exactly difficult to spot the holds.
Went back in the afternoon as a mate was keen and unfortunately someone had broken the large flake hold on what I presume was Asylum Sika or Snappy duds, can't quite work it out looking at the picture I'm afraid. The hold has been left under the problem, not sure if anything can be done with it?
-
these look like a cracking set of probs, can't wait to climb at that grade again and go and tick them
How is the arm getting on Jim?
arm is fine thanks, just been hampered by some virus for a few months and major house extension thats taken up all my time and energy.
-
A vid of more of the problems hereabouts, in case anyone fancies snapping more holds off and drawing more lines:
Burbage North Woods Bouldering on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41622005)
-
nice video and tribute also.
-
Disappointingly it was covered it tick marks, suffice to say these were all removed before I left. Given all the chalk from recent ascents it's not exactly difficult to spot the holds.
FFS!
-
Good skills Cofe.
Went back in the afternoon as a mate was keen and unfortunately someone had broken the large flake hold on what I presume was Asylum Sika or Snappy duds, can't quite work it out looking at the picture I'm afraid. The hold has been left under the problem, not sure if anything can be done with it?
Balls :no:! Hope it doesn't go walk about before I get a chance to have a look and try to sort. Was it in one piece? Can you figure out from the vid if it was the start flake on AS (the leftmost low flake, close to the left arete)?
If anyone else goes here soon can they stash the hold somewhere safe and PM me the whereabouts, thanks.
-
Good skills Cofe.
Went back in the afternoon as a mate was keen and unfortunately someone had broken the large flake hold on what I presume was Asylum Sika or Snappy duds, can't quite work it out looking at the picture I'm afraid. The hold has been left under the problem, not sure if anything can be done with it?
Balls :no:! Hope it doesn't go walk about before I get a chance to have a look and try to sort. Was it in one piece? Can you figure out from the vid if it was the start flake on AS (the leftmost low flake, close to the left arete)?
If anyone else goes here soon can they stash the hold somewhere safe and PM me the whereabouts, thanks.
If I'd thought about it I could have picked the hold up for safe keeping - sorry!
It did appear to be in one piece though. It was a decent sized hold and more in the centre on the wall than close to the left arete if i remember correctly. It might be the flake above the 'k' of sika on the topo or it might be the thing you pull on with your right hand for the start.
Sorry for the vagueness but I only had a brief look at that side of the block.
-
Lovejoy, your problem is fine (and hard - I couldn't do it at all). The flake which broke is to the right so your sequence from the vid isn't affected.
Went this morning early and it was all a bit damp. Did monobulge from the mono not from low (my fucked hamstring makes lifting my left left foot high very tricky) Very good problem - thought the top out was terrifying but had no spotters.
-
Went out tonight n climbed the line straight up what basically looks like an inch to the left of snappy duds on topo but without the flake since I'm not a magician, a bit of a bastardisation on duds n sika really, we thought this was the obvious line on the face if that makes it any easier to picture. thought this was quite tricky 7b+ maybe 7c. The start holds on this feel like theyll snap if someone of cofes or scouses weight tries to pull on them so pls watch out. Also two trainers on the spinebreaking stump behind help with the last move!
Iain originally climbed mono bulge rh, his description to me ages ago, when we were stood in front of it was nothing short of pathetic. However the way he danced up it tonight left me almost breathless.
Having just watched vid n speaking to jonboy the broken flake is the starting heel on asylum sika.
-
Dawid told me he's pretty sure he climbed the two obvious front lines, but doesn't remember much more, and says good work for all the cleaning and topo making. He also said he didn't want to retro claim anything, but I think he's forgotten he told people years ago.
-
Ah but not even the mighty polish dave climbed it without the obvious huge flake, unless he snapped it off did said prob n then glued it back on ;)
-
Why does this thread have to be so confusing? :wall:
R-man - Which 'front' does Dawid mean, the Mono Bulge side or the right hand side? I'd guess the former.
Dense - No wonder I couldn't find Iain's line before... climb the wall to the right of it trending leftwards. So sit start n climb leftwards kind of on the prow but not underneath it
::-\ either one or both of you has altzeimer's . Call me difficult, but how can a hybrid of a 7b and a 6b+ be both "the obvious line of the face" and a grade or two harder than the probs it shares holds with? Any chance you could explain it hold by hold (by all mean by PM if you like) cheers?
-
I pointed out that iains. Description was pathetic, n that was while we were stood there. He says he meant he just didn't use the mono, n he comes further round the right arete cos his lank is outrageous. As for your other point how cam it be harder? Your 7b is an eliminate not at all obvious, n my thing uses a huge flake that's no longer there, so now what ure askin is how can somethin be harder if u take away a huge hold? Madness. We both thought this was the only obvious line up the block.from sitting
-
I didn't think any of them were 'obvious lines' to be honest. Its exactly the kind of place where different folk see different things - my inital thoughts years back were that the only likely thing of worth would be going up with the mono without using the aretes. Monochrome made a lot of sense when I did it though.
-
Thanks for the explanatory text message dense. It makes sense now, the broken flake is the middle one (foothold on AS and start handhold on SD) and you re-climbed Snappy Duds (what you did and Snappy Duds having identical start and finish points) without its broken start hold. Previously SD made a big boring slap to the top from the flake, obviously you now have to climb more to the left with a better harder sequence.
Like JB says the face has no well defined lines (except the lip trav). It's a bit like the Boston Mess face, lots of holds crying out to be used but some interpretation required to make sense of them. Mind you it seems like the hold eliminated on Asylum has fallen off so it's not actually an eliminate now :thumbsup:!
Infact it sounds like the breakage may have improved the lines on the face in that AS and SD(or whatever you want to re-name it) now climb the block from defined start points but without other rules. In which case I'll not bother gluing the flake back.
I'll try and get over there to check it out soon and correct info on topo and pb.info.
The only remaining mystery is whether Dawid did Monochrome and Mono Bulge, or Mono Bulge and Mono Bulge RH; both of which could concievably be described as 'the two obvious front lines'?
-
The only remaining mystery is whether Dawid did Monochrome and Mono Bulge, or Mono Bulge and Mono Bulge RH; both of which could concievably be described as 'the two obvious front lines'?
Having seen your topo, he reckoned it was Monochrome and Mono Bulge, but said he would have to stand in front of the boulder to be sure.
-
Thank god 4that ;D I'll prob be back tonight, just incase anyone wants 2 avoid the place
-
The only remaining mystery is whether Dawid did Monochrome and Mono Bulge, or Mono Bulge and Mono Bulge RH; both of which could concievably be described as 'the two obvious front lines'?
Having seen your topo, he reckoned it was Monochrome and Mono Bulge, but said he would have to stand in front of the boulder to be sure.
Well the most important thing is monochrome ended up with a decent name, so I can rest easy.
-
Had a look at the breakage today. As I thought, the start jug of Snappy Duds (clue in the name) had snapped off. No point gluing it on as the new sequence looks miles better, but have backed up the remainder of the flake so hopefully it's all rock solid now. Also rubbed some dirt into rock scars to make them look less grim.
All holds on Asylum Sika are unchanged and with the jug out right now gone it's totally uneliminate, result!
Do you want to rename your line Dense (by all means do, the original one was a throw away)? Does it have any rules re hands/feet in flakes on right, or use of start hold on AS? Let me know and i'll update pb.info.
-
Cheers for stabalising hold Jon uve saved me from doing a bad job :2thumbsup:
No rules per se, I pulled on rh on broken flake lh below n left, both obvious, then straight up via 2 obvious methods. I used r heel on flake to right. Keep name as snappy duds I quite like it
-
Was down there today, a good set of problems, with the majority too hard for me (at the moment). Don't know if anyone's noticed but the starting foothold of Monochrome wobbles significantly. I doubt it would change the problem massively if it were to go, but if people want to preserve it something should probably be done soon-like.
-
Don't know if anyone's noticed but the starting foothold of Monochrome wobbles significantly. I doubt it would change the problem massively if it were to go, but if people want to preserve it something should probably be done soon-like.
Just came on to post the same. We were using the small scoop just above the hold in order to preserve what's there. Worth stabilising if possible I think.
-
I don't remember a starting foothold - massive shelf, left heel, off you go.
-
There is a flake foothold at the bottom of the plinth, we noticed it was wobbly last summer. Easily avoidable but might leave an ugly scar if it goes. Probably just needs a dab of sika behind.
-
There is a flake foothold at the bottom of the plinth, we noticed it was wobbly last summer.
This is the one, didn't realise it had always been wobbly, just assumed it'd deteriorated since this block became everyone's favourite boulder.
Easily avoidable but might leave an ugly scar if it goes. Probably just needs a dab of sika behind.
We thought the same.
-
what's the consensus on grade, been given 7B there but I recall Dave mooting 7B+ originally?
:sorry: for dragging up an old topic
Went out yesterday and did Monochrome. Awesome problem! I must admit I thought it was more like 7A. Thought it was a touch easier than Made In Sheffield.
I did it in a similar way to Nathan, but with less intermediate moves, and every move static. I did do the start slightly differently. Right foot shoved where the hands start from, and you can take both hands off and reach the good sloper with the left hand, and the mono with the right. Then left heel, and left hand straight to the good pinch, same right heel hook, but go straight to good seam, swing left heel back on, and go straight to top sloper/guppy. Finish the same. Or maybe I'm just getting strong and got my first 7B flash?
-
It could just be cleaning up a bit now, plus the old morphic resonance? You're the first person I've heard suggest 7a though.
-
more like 7A... a touch easier... less intermediate moves... every move static... my first 7B flash
(http://www.photo-dictionary.com/photofiles/list/1319/1819medal.jpg)
-
To be honest, it was probably in perfect nick yesterday after weeks of cleaning, and a strong wind cooling and drying everything. It also suits me pretty well. Maybe 7A+? I'd be interested in one of the early ascentionists getting back on it, and seeing if it feels easier after multiple ascents cleaning it all up.
-
Look, I find stuff totally piss all the time. The trick is to just to muster up a toothy grin, a wry shake of the head, and then take the grade.
-
The trick is to just to muster up a toothy grin, a wry shake of the head...
Just tried this in the mirror... I make it look a bit creepy...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3494/4031024978_48c508b501.jpg)
-
I'd agree it's easier than Made in Sheffield, which was given 7b, hence logically Monochrome is either hard 7a+ or easy 7b. Ok some folk say (inc. the guide) hard 7a+ for MiS, either way it doesn't make Monochrome 7a. It makes sense to compare against established benchmarks when grading.
Disclaimer: I do Monochrome via a ludicrous no left heel hooks sequence due to a dodgy hamstring so have no idea how hard the standard way is.
-
sorry to drag this back up.
Tried this yesterday but as my left arm/shoulder is still pretty weak and my core is made of jelly I couldn't do the left heel hook release/put right heel hook on ( as in the beta in both the vids). All the other moves are fine except this.
Any other beta worth trying?
-
Which prob are you after beta for, Monochrome or Mono Bulge?
-
Sorry, Monochrome
-
Sorry, Monochrome
erm, Sam, of this parish, did it without the heelhook. He just laid one on for the right hand crimp above the bulge with his left heel on. This meant he didn't need to do all the heel faffing and could just get on with slapping up the left arete. He's not strong but he is long, i.e. if you can reach the hold, you could stick it.
I couldn't get away with that so did it with the heel release and swap. It was the crux for me, when I got it, I did the problem. I had to virtually take the left heel off, staically hold myslef, then slowly raise my right otherwise my left hand peeled off. The lad I was with when I did it could happily release his left and swing his right up in a fluid movement. This seeemd the living end for me......
-
Thanks, tried slapping with right hand with left heel still on but felt to weird/awkward. will just have to get stronger/less flabby
-
Someone emailed Gareth through pb.info that the right hand start hold of asylum sika has come off in two parts. It's been left beneath the problem. Got any sika left, Bonjoy?
-
Cheers for the heads up. I'll have a look.
-
Cleaned and stuck the hold back on today. Should be bomb proof now. Everything on the block was bone dry.