UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Ally Smith on June 14, 2011, 02:43:05 pm
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I've had a search of the other "help, I've hurt my finger" threads, and one topic that seems missing is what training you can safely do whilst rehabbing the busted finger.
So, for me, I've tweaked my middle left finger on the crux of Predator. Can i still do some back 2 and other combo deadhangs without making the injury worse, or is there some biological reason why i should hold back?
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Not a huge amount of [SCIENCE] behind this but I'd say back 2 fine. If it ain't hurting, it ain't making it worse!
What have you actually done to it?
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I totally fucked one of my fingers a few years back (I couldn't crimp on it for about a year... maybe more) and I decided to just take a completely different slant in climbing. Hence the whole obsession with cracks ;)
So, you know it makes sense Ally. Get off those nasty 8b's and get jamming!
The other thing I tried once, was to improve my index finger strength when injured. Bad idea - totally messed myself up. Then again, maybe if I'd been more moderate about it I'd not have had those problems.
Good luck with the rehab!
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I think I've got a partial rupture of my A2 pulley?
It was aching for a few weeks after trying a route at Nesscliffe that involved torqued mono's on the now poorly finger. I don't remember any specific popping sounds from the offending digit at the time, or any other point, but i think the cumulative effect of an intense period of sport climbing (half a dozen low f8's since Easter and trying harder porjects) was the start of the problem.
Trying Predator again on sunday, and then bouldering in the cave last night has sent it over the edge and made my finger properly throw the dummie out the pram. Today's the first day it's hurt just doing normal things like changing gear in the car, so I figure i need to take it easy for a bit.
The reason for the question was that i noticed i was taking a fair few holds on Predator as back 3 open handed, and having been predominantly a crimp fiend since climbing regularly on Yorks lime, i figured this might be an opportunity to work on some weaknesses (back 2 strength) whilst rehabbing the busted finger.
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from my own personal experience I would say do what you can I busted my left middle finger and did a lot of back twos and found it helped. Also if you can do VERY light stuff on the injured finger after about a week I think its supposed to increase blood flow or something
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Carlisle slapper seems to have advocated this somewhere on their blog in the past so I'd go for it. If it doesn't hurt then it should be fine. Who knows it might aid blood flow in the general area too :unsure:
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Who knows it might aid blood flow in the general area too :unsure:
That's got some logic too it! I can't imagine the blood supply would shut down on the injured finger while pumping it round the rest of them.