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the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: kingholmesy on June 07, 2011, 10:47:16 pm

Title: [Daft Brass] [Dovestones Quarries] [E5 6a**]
Post by: kingholmesy on June 07, 2011, 10:47:16 pm: Start from a platform 5 metres right of Mindbender. Climb the blunt rib via a scary mantle then continue more easily to reach the upper arete. Layback up this in a fine position with a precarious reach for a good flat hold, then romp to the top.

First ascent: Andy Stewart 6 June 2011.
Second ascednt: Luke Holmes 6 June 2011.

Currently awaiting its first onsight ...
Title: Re: [Daft Brass] [Dovestones Quarries] [E5 6a**]
Post by: Bonjoy on June 08, 2011, 08:48:46 am: Sounds good. Do you have any pics?
Title: Re: [Daft Brass] [Dovestones Quarries] [E5 6a**]
Post by: kingholmesy on June 08, 2011, 10:23:24 am: Nope sorry. It was only Andy and me up there. It is definitely worth a visit for those who like a slightly esoteric venue though. It's clean and the moves up the top arete are really good. The climbing's not too hard, but it does feel quite bold.
Title: Re: [Daft Brass] [Dovestones Quarries] [E5 6a**]
Post by: Grubes on July 12, 2011, 10:28:58 am: Well done for getting a route done in there, the quarry scares the living shit out of me. I think its the fact a block the size of a mini fell down just last year.

Have you let Martin Kocsis know so it can get in the new guide?
Title: Re: [Daft Brass] [Dovestones Quarries] [E5 6a**]
Post by: kingholmesy on July 13, 2011, 12:24:17 pm: Quote from: Grubes on July 12, 2011, 10:28:58 am

Have you let Martin Kocsis know so it can get in the new guide?

No, but I think Andy is involved with checking some of the crags for the new guide so I assume he'll ask Martin to include it.

Does anyone know how things are progressing with the guide, as I've got my eye on another line at a Western crag that I would like to be included if I manage to climb it sometime soon?
Title: Re: [Daft Brass] [Dovestones Quarries] [E5 6a**]
Post by: grimer on July 13, 2011, 12:36:03 pm: Grinding along. All the chew stuff now finished but managed to squeeze DB in. Unlikely to get any more in, m'afraid.
Title: Re: [Daft Brass] [Dovestones Quarries] [E5 6a**]
Post by: Grubes on July 13, 2011, 12:39:09 pm: Quote from: grimer on July 13, 2011, 12:36:03 pm
Grinding along. All the chew stuff now finished but managed to squeeze DB in. Unlikely to get any more in, m'afraid.
Nice one. Last I heard from Martin was October is that still the planned date?
Title: Re: [Daft Brass] [Dovestones Quarries] [E5 6a**]
Post by: kingholmesy on July 13, 2011, 01:07:13 pm: Quote from: grimer on July 13, 2011, 12:36:03 pm
Grinding along. All the chew stuff now finished but managed to squeeze DB in. Unlikely to get any more in, m'afraid.

Shitter. My intended new route isn't in the Chew valley if that makes any difference? I'm currently on holiday in Turkey but hope to get it done within the next week or two if there's any chance of squeezing it into the guide? Should make a good E4/5.