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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Dexter on May 17, 2011, 05:18:33 pm
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so basically at some point in july im going round ireland with my brother for 2 weeks but wont have a chance to climb :boohoo: firstly does anyone have any ideas how to keep some form of training or shall I just accept it as a period for all my injuries to fully heal themselves up? secondly would it be productive if I can do nothing to absolutely beast myself before I go or would this be detrimental?
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so basically at some point in july im going round ireland with my brother for 2 weeks but wont have a chance to climb :boohoo: firstly does anyone have any ideas how to keep some form of training or shall I just accept it as a period for all my injuries to fully heal themselves up? secondly would it be productive if I can do nothing to absolutely beast myself before I go or would this be detrimental?
I'd give the fingers a rest and maybe do a few core exercises - bit of general other exercise (cycling, swimming, running, walking) might help keep the weight off (I always put it on when away on hols..)
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I think it was Dave Mac who i was reading recently saying roughly that there's no climbing training program as effective as doing no climbing training for a fortnight and losing four pounds...
:popcorn:
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ha unfortunately im around 7% body fat and I reckon losing a few pounds would probably be unhealthy
plus im probably going to be doing a lot of :beer2: :alky: whilst im there so chances of losing weight are pretty minimal
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I took 8 months off doing any form of physical exercise whatsoever and put a better performance in in the cave than I was doing when I was climbing 3/4 times a week. The body it would seem has no logic.
Take 2 weeks off as the time for micro traumas to heal, all those little tendon/finger whatever niggles. I'm sure I was told by a very reputable climber that Olympic Russian gymnasts used to take a month off for just this purpose.
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I was climbing often before a trip to Font, when there I climbed badly and just injured myself. A bit pissed off I spent a week and a half sitting around not climbing, resting my shoulders and arms. When I climbed again for the first time in 2 weeks I was back on top form somehow.
Enjoy the :beer2:. It gives you power :strongbench:
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Two weeks is not long enough to lose strength
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Recovery is an important part of training. If you train hard for anything you also need to rest hard. If you regularly train and either
A. don't get enough sleep
B. Don't eat a good diet for recovery
C. Drink alcohol
D. get injured/fight injury
then two weeks off will prob do you a lot of good.
Fuck it, if you train hard you should definitely stop for at least two weeks, us fatties need to catch up
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cheers guys
any thoughtson beasting myself before I go? will this help or shall I just carry on the normal training before I go?
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any thoughtson beasting myself before I go? will this help or shall I just carry on the normal training before I go?
Maybe if you deliberately injure yourself, you won't feel so bad about missing climbing? A flawless plan.
In fact, thinking about it, I'm at least 100% certain that's what Moffatt is on about whenever he talks about 'a mental approach to climbing' in his book...
My exams next week will definitely benefit from my bust ankle :smartass:
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haha true but I would have to injure myself bad enough to be out for two weaks but not so bad I can climb fine after I get back..... hmmm a tricky balance.
My exams next week will definitely benefit from my bust ankle :smartass:
true I have mine at the minute but have discovered that the beastmaker is the perfect way to take a minute or so break every 5 minutes multitasking ftw
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well 2 weeks off can be very good sometimes.
as for what training to do before : figure out what training makes you feel tired for the most days afterwards?
(for instance, for me : a big, long, a muerte endurance/power endurance session with relatively short rests, as routes that take you roughly 3 minutes to be climbed and no more than 10 min rest, adjusting the difficulty so that each time you barely make them? (eg 6b-6c-7a-6c+-6c-6c-6b+-6b-6a-5c..)
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2 weeks off is a great chance too let all the muscles and tendons fully recover, id beast it just before you go have the two weeks off and come back and after a session youll prob be climbing well! i like having time off sometimes
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Two weeks is not long enough to lose strength
but is long enough to alter your strength to weight ratio.
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As others have said, you won't really lose basic strength in 2 weeks. But you will probably notice a drop in plyometric strength / contact strength however this will return soon enough. I'd take the time off and do nothing, perhaps some stretching. Try not to gain weight if you find it difficult to lose. And you might aswell train hard beforehand.
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Ditto, 2 weeks off will do you a lot of good.
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You could do a big strength session beforehand to really tire yourself out. Then over the two weeks off you will supercompensate in recovery and come back stronger.
However, if you have existing niggles and injuries and already train a lot, may be better just to rest and heal, and you'll probably find that you're better when you come back anyway.
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cheers guys think I may spend a couple of days in the cave before I go as i should be able to sufficiently destroy myself there