UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Kaito on April 10, 2011, 02:08:26 pm
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Is the vertical foothold for the first move (on the right-hand side) in? It doesn't say anything about it in the guide (peak bouldering), however its polished and this guy uses it: Nacho Sanchez - Zippy's Problem (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfQ1U6UZFjU#)
Thanks.
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I asked this very question when reading the new guide script. I don't know what the final verdict was. I suspect it's not "in".
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I was also wondering this on thrusday when I was down there my guess would be it doesnt say its in so its not but I couldnt get anywhere near pulling off the floor without it
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no no no no no no no. There's a really poor really tiny smear ou there. It is quite hard just to pull on. Hope conditions at -10 are better than in Font. Must have been 28 today with multiple infants making problems even harder.
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:agree:
same R foothold as the harder ones there IIRC, havin said that...I've done Zippys... but few others on that section of wall.
BTW... IMO, a really satisfying problem!
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is it still cricket only to use the smaller of the left foot holds at the start?
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that's my interpretation
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Not again! Seems like every time I think I've done something new on minus ten I've done something wrong!
So the foothold on the right at the start (like the video) is out. What about the lefthand foothold when going to the side pull? I did it using the poor foothold down and left of the good horn thing, as indicated in the vertebrate guide. What about the sidepull? There is the pinch from variant 1, then a side pull to the left and another sidepull further to the left. Which is it?
Keen to get back and do it in the week. Cheers.