UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: dave on February 23, 2004, 03:31:41 pm
-
...on brad pit - i.e. i can't get me left hand over into the groove (ala that strong lass on the video on this site) with the heel on, but can easily get the right hand up gastoning the groove with the heel on. So my question is, whats me best line of attack assuming i'm leading the the wrong hand?
i can get left hand matching crossed on the layaway next to the other hand, but then can't take the right hand out to go up, cos the bit for the right hand is gash. have tried making a massive cross over to the last good bit of the groove (1foot below the jug) but this leaves me at a dead end unable to move, so whats a G to do?
and if anyone suggests the dyno method i'll not be impressed.
peace out.
-
Had my first proper go at this on Saturday, never really had a go before. Thought i wouldnt be flexible enough so didnt bother. Managed to get heal on and go over with left, but friciton was shite, so couldnt do it, but there is light at the end of the tunnel.
People do it using your method Dave, but like as above, i reckon the friction would have top be like velcro...
Speaking of this general area... Has anyone seen or tried the John Welford project on the opposite side of this block? Two good ish sidepulls, high awkword foot and slap to the top? Cant believe its not been done already. Quite an obvious project!
-
If you go up with your R on BP you just have to shuffle your hands about to get your left on the good bit.
The project around the front is actually quite hard, and also not very good, which is why it's not been done.
-
The tall can reach a ripple in the ramp/layaway for right hand, a few inches above the good low bit and about an inch or so from the back of the hold. With this you can easily get the good low bit of hold with your left and then slap up again with right hand.
-
i think i might ave tried a bit like what you say jon but probably didn't get the best high bit - will try it again and drop the SCIENCE on it.
What i find bizarre is that when i know i'm going to go up with right hand i can swing heel on quite easily, but when i start off exactly the same but intending to go over with the left i find it desperate to get the heel on. weird innit.
cheerz 4 da beyda.
-
Both ways work, though cross method is defo easier. As Ru said, goin right first requires loadsa shufflin to change hands. Go left first, flag deep and you can lock all the way without matching :D
The project around the front is actually quite hard, and also not very good
I take this to mean that you can hit the top but can't hold it :wink:
-
y on earth is the thing on the front called the john welford project? :? do people who don't goto plantation often call things by different names?
-
This is exactly how I've always done it and doesn't require any shuffling so to speak. There a vid on CragX .
http://www.cragx.com/media/movie.php?content=brad_pit.mov
Heel on.
Get base or sloper with right hand.
Pull up high and into the heel (crucial for the height)
Left hand goes a few inches above into slopey bit with very slight impression.
Hang on left hand and arc right hand over into crimp (don't move anything but your arm or you're off)
Move left hand down to lowest bit of side pull.
Reach the jug.
What a sequence. Makes me smile every time I do it :lol:
Definately 1 of the best problems in the world.
Andy
-
Heel on.
Get base or sloper with right hand.
Pull up high and into the heel (crucial for the height)
Left hand goes a few inches above into slopey bit with very slight impression.
cheers for that - i've got this far (above) with that sequence but never managed to bring the right arm out to go up without falling off. need to try harder. damn.
-
This move is a real body position thing. That initial pull up is cruical to set yourself for height and get as close to rock as poss. When you get ir right it really feels like a 5c move but very hard until then.
good luck