UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: gruffalo on March 28, 2011, 04:52:04 pm
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whats the crack with using weights as part of my training session? I here its best to do low weight high reps? if so what exercises should I be doing? has any one noticed a difference in power? :weakbench:
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You first need to establish your One Rep Max (1RM) e.g. the heaviest mass you can shift for that particular exercise.
For Strength, use 80%-100% of 1RM
Reps 1-5
Sets 4-7
Rest between sets 2-6 mins
For Power use 70-100% of 1RM
Reps 1-5
Sets 3-5
Rest 2-6
For Hypertrophy (Mass Gain) use 60-80% of 1RM
Reps 8-15
Sets 6-8
Rest 2-5
Endurance use 40-60 1RM
Reps 25-60
Sets 2-4
Rest 1-2
There's a lot more to this... for a simple strength workout, you can't go wrong with 5 sets of 5 reps of whatever it is you are doing.
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whats the crack with using weights as part of my training session? I here its best to do low weight high reps? if so what exercises should I be doing? has any one noticed a difference in power? :weakbench:
You could try eating more pies? :shrug: I believe someone who goes by the name of Sam may be someone to consult
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Can you recommend any fillings? I've heard squirrel is good but you need a few to fill a pie :alien:
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If you can do 4-7 sets at 80-100% of your 1RM then you're doin well like!!
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what weights are you doing? bench presses, dumbell work?
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If you can do 4-7 sets at 80-100% of your 1RM then you're doin well like!!
True - but there's also a huge gulf between 80% and 100% of the 1RM.
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I had a play around with the exercises outlined below a few years ago, but didn't find it helped me too much (probably because I didn't have a good level of base strength at the time)
Recently I have found french pull ups with a weighted vest on has helped with locking off. Maybe I should try the other exercises again and see if they help.
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Do the basics like bench press,shoulder press,bent over rows,bicep curls.the most important thing is food.
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Nice one! Will be getting right on that thanks ;D
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Get on the kettlebells lad. You tube is covered in training ideas, they're great for general conditioning, strength, power, the lot. The good thing is you have to use your whole body when lifting or swinging them. Have helped me loads.
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i've done a fair bit on and off over the years and wish i'd come to the conclusion years ago that some fingerboarding, some press ups and pull ups and some core exercises are more than adequate.
think long and hard - do you want to climb harder or do you want to look buff
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which way to the gym?
On a more serious note, I'm starting to agree. My body tends back to its scrawny natural state during periods which I'm climbing best/well/not shit. Weights were good for me in terms of injury prevention (i.e. developing some chest) and as a dsitraction from a phase of perma-injury but press-ups would have easily been sufficient.
There are far better ways to invest time.
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think long and hard - do you want to climb harder or do you want to look buff
Is it wrong to want both :devangel:
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The conventional wisdom on weight and rep structure is generally some variation on what FD posted above, but as was pointed out to me recently - there's little actual evidence to support it. What seems to be the case is that the best approach is to use a rep range that enables you to try hard in the last few reps, generally 5-15 reps.
As for the number of sets it seems that for novice weight trainers (less than 2yrs experience) one set is as effective as multiple sets, for the experienced WTs 3-6 sets are recommended.
Different people respond very differently to weight training, so it's worth taking some measurements first - weight, body fat, and limb circumferences, and then check again after a dozen sessions, if you find you're getting big and too heavy for climbing you need to try a different rep structure, exercise choice and even if you should be weight training at all.
For exercise choice - 'train movements, not muscles' so keep to compound, multi joint exercises.
A weekly basic routine could be:
Workout A.
Squat (Overhead, front or back - mix it up)
Pull ups
Bench Press
Deadhangs
Core.
Workout B.
Deadlift
Bent Over Row/Tuck Pull-ups
Dips/decline bench press
Deadhangs
Core.
Alternate workouts after climbing twice a week.
You could if you need add in some specials:
Upright Rows, I like these for my weak shoulders and also think they help with forearm extensors.
Tricep extensions, good for deep locks.
Chest flys, good for Font style compression moves.
Javorek Dumbbell complexes are a good intro to weight training :google: is your friend.