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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: dave k on February 17, 2004, 09:41:26 pm

Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: dave k on February 17, 2004, 09:41:26 pm: Anyone like to give me the paint by numbers on this fine problem. Just from standing will do. I get stuck at the same point each time. Left foot on the obvious low foot hold, right hand on the obvious sloper, left about the same height on the arete.
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: Bubba on February 17, 2004, 10:14:09 pm: The way I did it was:

- Stand with left foot on obvious high foothold
- Jump up and gaston the arete with right hand (just above my head)
- Right toe hooks low flake down and right (used on the sitter I think) and keeps you in balance
- Rock over 'til you can reach small pocket with left fingers
- Slap right hand out rightwards onto slab
- Now you're stood in balance....

...and the top moves are easy.

But there's several different methods other than this, but it worked for me, and I'm crap.
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: ian h on February 17, 2004, 10:21:36 pm: http://climbvideo.wbp.zabrze.pl/znajdz.php?sorto=rozmiar&rozmiar=0&ile_razy=0&czas=0&typ=0&znaleziono=494&limituj_od=75

from the online boulder vids thread.

bubba: how come this is not on this site?
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: Dolly on February 17, 2004, 10:32:25 pm: Er.... what do you do to get the movie ?
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: dave k on February 17, 2004, 10:55:09 pm: Cheers for that. I never saw a small pocket for the left. It will be mine tomorrow. As will that direct start (jump passed the tricky move) to Autumn.
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: Kim on February 17, 2004, 10:59:58 pm: http://www.thesend.co.uk/media/Brad's_Arete.mov

modern technology eh, beta on demand! :lol:

(right click, save target as... for this one)
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: dave on February 17, 2004, 11:02:33 pm: if you can't find a pocket then theres a little crozzley nubbin thing.
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: dave on February 17, 2004, 11:13:48 pm: nice one kim - finally a video with you actually in it!
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: Bubba on February 18, 2004, 09:56:37 am: Quote from: "ian h"
http://climbvideo.wbp.zabrze.pl/znajdz.php?sorto=rozmiar&rozmiar=0&ile_razy=0&czas=0&typ=0&znaleziono=494&limituj_od=75

from the online boulder vids thread.

bubba: how come this is not on this site?

Hey! That's Fatdoc and me performing above beta :D

It's not on the site coz I've never been arsed to convert it to .swf - must get round to it.....and get round to sending old zabrze.pl some abuse for nicking my video :twisted:
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: Bubba on February 18, 2004, 09:58:17 am: Quote from: "dave"
nice one kim - finally a video with you actually in it!

Kim's the first person I've seen do it the same way as me.
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: dave on February 18, 2004, 10:01:39 am: pretty sure cofe did it that way anall. if i had got anywhere near it then i'd by trying that way too.
Title: Brads Arete - I give up
Post by: dave k on February 18, 2004, 08:42:01 pm: Cheers for the beta. That little pocket out left really helped. The last few holds were a bit sketchier than I expected (damp).

I also managed to sort out the finish on the direct start to Autumn, that you snapped me on b4 Blubba. V8ish but height dependant for the jump start. Although I am only 5'9. The "cotton cloth cleaning method" was really effective on sorting out the top out.