UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: Probes on February 16, 2011, 04:22:18 pm
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Not done this for 15 years or so.. but must be getting more popular. Who does it now.. feetfirst and cheshire i remember. Gonna get a few pairs done in these times of doom n gloom. Roll on C4.
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Hopefully the C4 won't roll.
I wasn't impressed with Feet First last time I took shoes there (rands came off very quickly, about a month or so) and went with Cheshire Shoes (http://www.cheshireshoe.co.uk/) last time I had a pair resoled and the quality was much better (rands stayed in place).
But then a number of people will say that there is no point in getting shoes resoled anyway and you're better off using the money to buy a new pair.
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Ah thats interesting to know, i thought feetfirst were supposed t be the leaders. Looking at the qual of the websites ud have thought so.
Its funny people say that, i guess depends how well they are done, and how good with your feet u r. Not trying to route name drop, but back many moons ago in my student days i did the cad in a pair of vectors that were on their 3rd resole of stealth, and precise toes were certainly needed.
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I'm with slackers, Cheshire do a much better job in my experience, specifically with regard to the rands.
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It's maybe just me, but in my experience you're better not bothering and just buy a new pair of boots.
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It's maybe just me, but in my experience you're better not bothering and just buy a new pair of boots.
:agree:
Though maybe get a pair done for indoors and for Longridge traversing?
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I always thought that, but I then found old boots with holes in were better than re-soles :lol:
Although, at present 5.10 uppers seem to go well before the rubber does.
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Back in 93, my 6 1/2 lasers were much better after a feet first re-sole... (it did make them a tiny bit bigger which is probably why!)
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I've used Cheshire and Feet First on several occasions with much the same outcome. They both do an adequate job, the shape changes somewhat but are OK for training. Probably worthwhile at ~£30 compared to £70-100 new.
I've also had a resole done in the US. This was extremely good, coming back virtually as new. The man at Font. gets good reports too. These guys are are active climbers and specialise in climbing shoes whereas Feet First and Cheshire are ordinary shoe repairers.
It is common for US climbers to get their favorite shoes resoled 3-4 times, a legacy from when shoes were much more expensive in the US than in Europe. With the recent jump in shoe cost this might be a good time to set up a business here, climbing shoe repairs done by a climber for climbers.
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I had my Solutions done at Feet First after tearing a hike in the sole on otherwise mint boots. They came back looking perfect - shape is unusual and sole contours seemed to be as new - but they feel rubbish; looser than before and rolling on small holds. OK (just) for down the wall but no good for anything hard.
My conclusion = unless you just want them for indoor training then don't bother just get a new pair!
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Out of interest, have people used Feet First in Sheffield (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/place?hl=en&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=feet+first&fb=1&gl=uk&hq=feet+first&hnear=Sheffield&cid=6309082532286519036), or Chesterfield (http://www.feetfirst.resoles.co.uk/rock_boot_repair.php)?
I've only heard good things when people have said about the Chesterfield one, and I've heard a few less-than-positive comments about the Sheffield crew. Including from the Chesterfield one.
How are there two companies with the same name? As far as I'm aware, the Chesterfield one was doing so well, they wanted to outsource some of the easy stuff somewhere close by, and found these guys in Sheffield. They joined together as a partnership, and when the Chesterfield crew realised they weren't as good as they thought they were, they cancelled the agreement, but for some reason they were both allowed to keep the name. Obviously the Chesterfield lot didn't want to change their name, because it has the cachet (same applies for the Sheffield lot, but from a different angle).
This is what I've heard, but as I say, I've only heard good things about the Chesterfield people. I'd be interested to hear which one everyone's been to.
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My experience was with Sheffield Feet First, never tried Chesterfield.
Interestingly a few years ago (2007) when we were heading down to Lundy we had to swing by Chesterfield as my friends shoes were being resoled there.....because Sheffield were shit.
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Chesterfield Feet First are the ones to go to, they are the approved 5.10 resolers (etc) FeetFirst Chesterfield (http://www.resoles.co.uk/) They split from the Sheffield Shop in Woodseats a few years ago. As long as the boots aren't too knackered before they get resoled then the work is usually successful
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I've had good results from the Chestefield one. Never tried anywhere else.
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I've had quite a few pairs resoled in the last few years so here goes:
Feet First: Used Sheffield Feet First 3 times now. I'm all for supporting local businesses but disappointingly either the rands come off or the glue comes unstuck very quickly and it's just not worth the money. They also don't stock C4 rubber.
I've not used the Chesterfield Feet First (as Drew says same name but different company - long story apparently) however looking on their website they are not cheap. £35 for a stealth C4 resole + £10 for a rand + £5 postage = £50 for a resole!!
Cheshire Shoe Repair: Ignore the fact that their website looks like it was designed by a four year old. Quality & customer service is top notch, I've posted shoes to them that have been returned within the week. £30 for resoles inclusive of rands and postage is nearly half the price of feet first. I've had 2 pairs from them now and I struggle to notice any performance difference. In fact on a recent font trip I pretty much only wore my resoled pair.
One point worth noting is I wear Katanas. From what I've seen of mates who have got 5.10s the Katanas seem to resole a whole lot better than 5.10s do.
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It's maybe just me, but in my experience you're better not bothering and just buy a new pair of boots.
:agree:
Though maybe get a pair done for indoors and for Longridge traversing?
Yeah thats the plan 4 me 2. :lol:
Gonna try cheshire i think, seems the best bet.
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The man at Font. gets good reports too.
Pretty sure he is part of SO Escalade http://www.soescalade.com/PBCPPlayer.asp?ID=328807 (http://www.soescalade.com/PBCPPlayer.asp?ID=328807)
(My French is terrible)
Don't know if they still do it, but they used to do a resole for free if you gave him two pairs of climbing shoes. I was heading past the shop in Sallanches (I think) and had two scabby old pairs of shoes friends had left behind when thy were flying out the country, and he resoled my Mythos (this was a good few years ago) with Stealth and did an excellent job. Sadly the leather gave out before the sole did.
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I think you're correct about the SOSescalade connection.
The last resole I ever had done was by the guy in the van at Sabots and it succesfully transformed a pair of dominators into magic stealth dominators. They were a smidge larger than when handed in, but most importantly the shape was unaltered and it was almost impossible to spot that they had been resoled (with the exception that there was a reduced frequencey of "Scarpa moments")
All of my previous resoles were through feet-first (can't remember which one) and were definately not worth the money. As others have mentioned, climbing in worn out shoes is often easier than in resoles.
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i had a pair of katanas resoled and randed at chesterfield with postage it cost me nearly £50 and they were not much use for even down the wall.
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With the recent jump in shoe cost this might be a good time to set up a business here, climbing shoe repairs done by a climber for climbers.
Someone appears to be taking my business advice!
Anyone used Llanberis resoles (http://www.llanberisresoles.com/pages/home.html) yet? Good luck to them with the venture (and if you read this, where did you learn the trade?).
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"business" not "buisness".... :P
good luck to them..
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Thread about it on the other channel: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=505658 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=505658)
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sorry dont mean to be a pedant.. i mean to help here.. run a spell check over your site!
exsisting.. peolpes.. litte..
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sorry dont mean to be a pedant.. i mean to help here.. run a spell check over your site!
exsisting.. peolpes.. litte..
Thats assuming they're even reading this forum/thread, perhaps use the "Contact" section to let them know.
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Thats assuming they're even reading this forum/thread,
true!
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Thats assuming they're a native English speaker
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Ah the joy of spelling! Never my best quality, but luckily it doesn't affect my resoling too much. Hopefully all fixed now but do cast your eye over the site for any more...
I'm doing a drop off/pick up service from the Indy wall now too as well as V12 in Llanberis.
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With the recent jump in shoe cost this might be a good time to set up a business here, climbing shoe repairs done by a climber for climbers.
That was my thoughts exactly, and I really believe being a climber does make a huge difference. Understanding the importance of fit is a big part of it, as well as understanding the difference between, say, a pair of Mythos and a pair of Hornets.
Anyone used Llanberis resoles (http://www.llanberisresoles.com/pages/home.html) yet? (and if you read this, where did you learn the trade?).
I'm self taught. Not an easy task but a few hundred pounds worth of rubber, a stack of worn out hire shoes and hours of frustration, helped massively by advise from a couple of US resolers got me there. Resoling is tricky there's no doubt about it, but all the feedback I've had so far has been good.
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Good luck with the venture, be nice to have resoling as an economically viable alternative again.
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Recently had mine and a couple of friends shoes resoled by 'llanberis resoles' and must say the quality is excellent, and the turnaround quick. Have used the resoled shoes both inside and out and they feel great, nice and stiff like a new pair of shoes but with that fitted feel you get from a pair of shoes that have stretched to fit your feet.
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Petejh was made up with Llanberis Resoles, think i'm going to give them a go...
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Wanted to give a big thumbs up to Llanberis Resoles - Torquil did a brilliant job on a pair of Muira VS's, the shoes came back precise and almost as good as a new pair, he even managed to keep the downturned toe. Best resole job I've had by far - better than previous Miura's Ive had done at Feet First and Cheshire shoe repairs. Didn't take long either although I can see that changing with workload ;) With the current difficulty getting new Sportiva's it's 25 quid very well-spent.
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Yep he did a good job of my 5.10 teams too.. :thumbsup:
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really recomend Llanberis Resoles. got my boosters and vapours resoled with C4 rubber and they are awesome, like new but with with comfy uppers. plus kept the downturn on the boosters :great:
cheers Torquil
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I too have been very happy with Torquil's handy-work. :2thumbsup:
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I've had a pair of teams and a couple of pairs of whites done at Llanberis Resoles, haven't tried the whites yet but the teams are excellent. Like having a pair of shoes at that perfect stage where they're worn in but still have loads of rubber left, done a good job of keeping the downturn as well. Pity the inners are falling apart...
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My teams got better and better the more i wore them. Just hoping they don't peel as i can see it starting a little bit
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Hi Doylo, If they start to de-laminate just drop them back in and I'll re-stick them, its happened on about 4 pairs so far (out of nearly 200, so not bad odds). If anyone needs to do it by post I refund their postage costs too. If you need to I can do it while-U-wait, or at least while you get a coffee at V12 for 20mins, just give me a ring.
Whether this is something I can totally avoid as I get better, or whether its just an unavoidable part of resoling I'm not sure, I know people have had the same issues from feetfirst and CSR too. Time will tell I guess.
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Cheers Torquil. I'll drop them back if it gets any worse. They're getting quite a lot of use. I still use my new shoes for hard redpoints but use the resoles for pretty much everything else and they're great.
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Just had my teams done, totally blown away, brilliant job by LLanberis Resoles. Totally recommended. Thinking about getting some of my old favourite boots done now.
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+1 for Torquil at Llanberis - Top job on some old (and very very smelly - soz Torquil) Miura's,
After nearly a decade out of climbing, I nearly spewed when I saw the price of new boots. Now I have my old fave pair with new stickier rubber on for about 1/4 of the price.
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Had a pair of Anasazi Greens done by Torquil, can't fault the excellent work quality nor the turnaround time, the shoes were actually back with me before I had chance to pay, great service! :2thumbsup: though might be better from a business perspective only to post back once payment has been received??
Tested on Muchalls Shore last weekend and they were great, agree with comments about the fit still being excellent, looking forward to trialling on the grit this weekend as these feel good enough to use not just as wall boots (original idea to save the rubber on my 'good' Greens) but as back-up crag shoes as well :)
Have some well deserved waddage +1 and good luck with the business Torquil
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I am now quickly beginning to regret binning my La Sportiva Venoms, had poked through the toe on them but foolishly presumed I'd have been able to pick up a new pair somewhere.
Oh hindsight, you horrible twat :wall:
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I too have been very happy with Torquil's handy-work
Yet another recommendation for Torquil, nice one on reviving a pair of pinks. I look forward to my broken foot healing so i can put both of them on and climb some things in them. His handwork looks leagues above any other UK resoler.
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Just got my pair of 5:10 galileo galileo galileo figaro's back from Torquil - not used them yet but they feel no different in fit - if not a bit better, and the workmanship of the joins looks pretty good. Infact there's a fair chance they're glued together to a better standard than they were originally from the 5:10 factory. So I'm cautiously optimistic this was money well spent.
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Another vote for Torquil, got my Pythons back a couple of weeks ago and they still fit great and are sticky as hell. Best thing is they don't need any breaking in which is great for stretchy shoes like Pythons. Fantastic to finally have a good resole option in the UK, particularly with shoe prices how they are these days.
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Yep Torquil will be getting more business from me in the future. Got my pythons back after about a week; excellent job and good value. The fact that the rubber is so fresh rather than on new shoes that have been waiting in a box for a year before they are bought seems to make the rubber super sticky; better than the brand new pair I also have. Excellent service.
This thread is becoming a Torquil love-in. (Rightly so)
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This thread is becoming a Torquil love-in. (Rightly so)
Tru dat. He resoled some proper knackered boreals for me and they've come back like new. Cheers Torquil. Great service as well.
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Another +1 from me.
I'd only ever had them done at TCA in Bristol before, where they had come back good but it felt like quite quickly the edge had worn back down, and the whole process took well over a month because they send them away.
Dropped them in at V12 one Sunday and Royal Mail tried to deliver them back on the Wednesday, good quality stuff which is still holding up well despite some frequent use. Took a session or so to break back in but great after that
<instinct slippers, btw>
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This thread is becoming a Torquil love-in. (Rightly so)
Tru dat. He resoled some proper knackered boreals for me and they've come back like new. Cheers Torquil. Great service as well.
Gutted.
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I just wanted to say thanks for all the feedback, I'm about 500 pairs in now and its has been pretty hard work to get to this point but the positivity from ukB has helped loads.
I know I've not totally sussed it yet, not all shoes are as easy to do as others and i'm not totally free of de-laminations (but then I don't think any re-soler is)but I feel its going in the right direction. What I am happy with is keeping the downturn and hollow in shoes, which seems pretty easy, what I find hard is keeping the shape in a shoe where the upper/rands have gone really soft and baggy.
You are keeping me busy which is great but reflected in longer turnaround times, its hard to predict, some days 20 pairs turn up, other days none. (I currently say 3-10 working days plus postage for turnaround).
Oh, normally I can resole a shoe that has been done before, however I've decided that I don't want to re-do any that have been done by CheshireShoeRepairs as he does things so differently that its hard to go over his work, and I never feel happy with the results. I'd suggest sending them back to him instead.
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I was just about to send my 5.10 verde shoes off to Llanberis, checked their website and it looks like they are out of Stealth rubber.
If so Torquil, any eta on new stealth arriving? I can wait a little time as I have another pair of the same in slightly different size but if not anytime soon, where is plan B? Cheshire resoles? Anybody recommend?
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You are keeping me busy which is great but reflected in longer turnaround times, its hard to predict, some days 20 pairs turn up, other days none. (I currently say 3-10 working days plus postage for turnaround).
I hope you are getting enough time to do some climbing yourself - that's what is important
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I saw this last week, I'd happily pay to have someone do it for me but what with the postage from France I'l have a go at a bit of D.I.Y. worth a try for anyone suffering from 'Blanco heel'.
http://www.llanberisresoles.com/pages/mods.html (http://www.llanberisresoles.com/pages/mods.html)
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Another :thumbsup: for Torquil at Llanberis resoles. Just got 2 pairs back a week to the day of posting them.
A very fine job, my Magos look as absolutely as good as new. Only with stickier rubber :)
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Does anyone know who does the resoles for TCA Glasgow and how good they are?
I reckon my boostics should be fine for moderate trad and indoor circuit shuffling after a resole.
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Torquil has just redone my Instinct LU and Vs. Quality job, Grip 2 instead of Edge, better than new I think. Postage will be same from Scotland as England..
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Torquil has just redone my Instinct LU and Vs. Quality job, Grip 2 instead of Edge, better than new I think. Postage will be same from Scotland as England..
http://www.llanberisresoles.com/
(to save people trawl back through the thread).