UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Probes on February 08, 2011, 04:46:14 pm
-
Ive managed to do something to my elbow campus laddering, has anyone done a similar thing and what was the out come. Basically end of a big session i put 15 mins in laddering up and down, i felt something twinge on one of the downs but thought nothing about it. Never learn hey. This was on saturday, its gradually got worse over the past few days, such that holding and lifting a pint now hurts and doing anything twisty hurts, like playing a guitar. Its ok unloaded but as soon as there's a bit of resistance i get sharp pains that feel like they come from in my joint. Any thoughts anyone? Gutted.
-
Bloomin-eck! Not climbing tonight then?
-
If its elbow-tendonitis (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15911.msg300905.html#msg300905)
-
:( Nope. looks like pizza, corry n a few :beer1: for a bit.
-
i used to always try and downclimb as much as possible at the wall but after a few bicep tendon issues(both arms,now sorted) i now try and avoid any hard downclimbing.
-
Ive managed to do something to my elbow campus laddering, has anyone done a similar thing and what was the out come. Basically end of a big session i put 15 mins in laddering up and down, i felt something twinge on one of the downs but thought nothing about it. Never learn hey. This was on saturday, its gradually got worse over the past few days, such that holding and lifting a pint now hurts and doing anything twisty hurts, like playing a guitar. Its ok unloaded but as soon as there's a bit of resistance i get sharp pains that feel like they come from in my joint. Any thoughts anyone? Gutted.
Outside of elbow i.e. Tennis? If so, then get a decent physio to look at your shoulder stability. I had treatment for campussing-induced tennis elblow which cleared it up really quickly. All came from the shoulder/back.
-
Its funny i have tendonitis on both knees, and it doesnt feel like the same pain. Tendonitis pain to me is like a achy burning pain, essentially new tendon tissue tearing/micro ruptures. This isnt like it, its kind of instant sharp pain when the arm is in one set position. And there is no pain when i press/massage it. ?
-
Cheers for that link to Macloads site, he seems to know his stuff, might give the negative curls a go anyhow.
-
I got golfer's elbow from doing up and downs on a campus board. A shame, I was the fittest and strongest I'd ever been at the start of a year off, then I was the most injured. The athlon negative curls regime worked for me once I'd discovered it.
-
The athlon negative curls regime worked for me once I'd discovered it.
Me too. http://www.athlon.com.au/media_articles.htm (http://www.athlon.com.au/media_articles.htm)
-
don't play guitar :)
-
another shout for negative curls. My friend had destroyed elbows and NC's seemed to sort him out.
-
I did NCs as well and it worked. They make it worse at first though.
-
I did quite a few sets of these last night about 30mins in total. Its made a hell of a difference already, i could feel it almost instantly, the pains have reduced considerably, and its feeling nearly normal again :). Going to stick at doing these then!
I remember, i also put a load of dips in right at the end of the session after campusing, im guessing this wouldnt have helped either, and i wondering if this is what has done it.
Good to hear that peeps whove had this have managed to sort it out. I wonder if the same logic will work on my knees. :-\
-
is it better to use heavey weight for negative curls?..
-
is it better to use heavey weight for negative curls?..
I think the idea is that it should hurt a little but still allow you to finish the sets. there was a video posted yesterday with a guy demonstrating these..
Found it: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17096.msg302358.html#msg302358 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,17096.msg302358.html#msg302358)
-
Basically end of a big session i put 15 mins in laddering up and down...
i once tried campus board after a long session, i hurt my elbow and told myself not to go near the thing again.
a year or so later, i had a campus board session in the middle of my session and i was fine. i did this for a month in a couple of my sessions each week and i got stronger.
theres some science to it, all about good form not happening with tired muscles and overloading tendons, but dont be scared to go back to the board probes!!!
sorry that if all sounded :wank:-ey, i'm no scientist!