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the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: TommyG on January 31, 2011, 01:42:13 pm
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If you are a bit of a wuss but are looking to push your trad then what E5's are good and safe to try?
If you have climbed 7c sport and 7c bouldering then I'm guessing there is some fittness there and at least some power but where the body is willing the mind is weak.
Does anyone have any suggestions for the aspiring boulderer/sport climber for their first E5's in the peak?
:thumbsup:
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Have a trawl through this.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16732.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16732.0.html)
I think this should be under " chuffing"?
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Cheers for this Chris!
The climber in question is particularly short! 5"2 ish.
So what I'm really asking is for a safe or highballable E5 that suits a shortie!
I have had a look through this thread before and there is not loads in the Peak.
Nosferatu maybe?????
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I'm not the one to ask I'm afraid. Plus I'm a foot taller than you, so not one to ask for gnome beta :)
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Moon Crack - probably easier for the short.
Safe and powerful, if a bit tiring to get the gear in: ideal for a 7c boulderer with some sport fitness.
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Was going to suggest Strapadictomy but if your 5"2 that one will be a tad trick, unless you've got a plus ten AI!? Nosferatu is not all that safe (plus isn't it E6?) to try as the landings a little bit doge, I've heard of several people breaking themselves on this.
Moon Crack maybe? Bat out of a hell?
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Bat out of Hell is considerably harder if your short.
How about...
Perfect Day - Gardoms
Moon Crack - Curbar (ditto)
Are you requesting E5 because he's solid at E4 and wants to step up a notch? or because you think E5 is where he should be?
IMHO, there are fair more quality E4 in the peak which would prove more fruitful and better suited...
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Was going to suggest those 2 NCB.
Plus, highballing an E5 isn't doing an E5. I don't mean that in a snooty way but it's a massively different experience having a rope on, firing in nuts then running it out compared to sketching up an arete as the spotters and pads get further away. Not to say one is harder, but the roped jobbies are such a buzz.
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Nah that cool Grimer.
I do know what you mean.
In response to Northern Country Boy I guess its more of an estimation of capability rather than them being solid at E4 and looking to move up.
Moon Crack sounds awesome though and its a good length. Is it about 7a+ french?
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How about:
Inaccessible Inas Rock well protected and pumpy
Nettle Wine Cratcliffe Good gear then a brilliant boulder prob with a very safe fall
Moolah and New Mediterranean Rivelin Place one set of bomber gear (several big RPs and a friend 0), down climb and get to do two safe bouldery routes off it
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In response to Northern Country Boy I guess its more of an estimation of capability rather than them being solid at E4 and looking to move up.
I forsee head issues. Physical ability means nothing when you're shitting yourself :whistle:
It might be worth starting a bit further down and working upwards.
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It might be worth starting a bit further down and working upwards.
Sit start E5's? :P
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How about:
Inaccessible Inas Rock well protected and pumpy
Nettle Wine Cratcliffe Good gear then a brilliant boulder prob with a very safe fall
Moolah and New Mediterranean Rivelin Place one set of bomber gear (several big RPs and a friend 0), down climb and get to do two safe bouldery routes off it
I was going to suggest Nettle wine on a subsequent E4 list..... Good call.
Moolah and New Mediterranean are great too, although at 5'2" they'd feel full value at the grade! Both significantly reachy propositions
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Does track of the cat still get E5? Classic, straightforward and safe.
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If this is their first trad then this is an absurd baptism of fire. You want to make sure they know how to place decent kit and have a head for it.
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Track of the Cat is the only route mentioned so far that I'd have had a hope in hell of doing as my first E5. I failed on Inaccessible only last year! Horses for courses I guess...
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Tommy, guessing this is for your other half??
The most unreachy that I can think of are:
London Pride - Millstone
Goliath - Burbage
Both have ample holds to choose from, they're just not always what you're wanting!
Is the Sphinx at Burbage E5?
One of the more obscure E5s at Ina's might be suitable in a highballable way. When you get down and think about it, it's not that easy to come up with short friendly E5s that aren't too bold! No wonder Lucy Creamer doesn't get on with it, despite being such an ace climber.
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Ah, just thought of 2.
Go to the Roost in Lancs. 2 E5s there that are a piece of piss and they've got quite a few pegs and aren't reachy.
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Go to the Roost in Lancs. 2 E5s there that are a piece of piss and they've got quite a few pegs and aren't reachy.
;) And the E6's.
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One of the more obscure E5s at Ina's might be suitable in a highballable way
The two on the right? I don't think they're E5 really, but if you're happy with the guidebook grade they're easy unless something snaps! For highballs, Entropy's Jaw would be a better one to go for I think. Hazel would be the person to ask, think's she's 5'2" too?
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as jb says track of the cat is very do'able.top might be a problem for a midget.
sole survivor in the churnet would be ok.certainly not going to deck.
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entropy's jaw is bold. i went for the solo with good pads and great spotters.
i'd make sure that you're competent at onsighting lots of E3&4s first... choose your E5 on what you feel suits you, not what others recommend. I stay clear of the burly ones.
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London Wall.
Behemoth's safe with friends although pumpy as.
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Unless you're a bone fide stamina wad you'll find that most people (or at least most people who've been brought up on grit) have a bold but physically piss E5 as their first. Typical routes being the knock (cos its E4), pebble mill, etc etc.
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entropy's jaw is bold. i went for the solo with good pads and great spotters.
I did it with a rope and put the wire in - didn't feel bold that way and I didn't find the wire that hard to place, although you could be at the top in the time it takes to place it.
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Apparently the knowledge in the eighties was to put it in first by leaning over the top.
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Fuck that, this is 2011, put it in by jetpack.
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if you or your partner want to get their head 'in' for grit, why not travel up to high neb at stanage and have a crack at:
the beautician
impossible slab
quietus (& right hand)
king kong
old friends
i'd suggest a saturday afternoon, when the gawpers will be there to add that all important performance pressure!
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My strong and 5'4" (approx.) friend did White Wall as her first grit E5 and reported it could be well protected if you have the tenacity to fiddle in the wires. I've not done it so I'd suggest getting independent confirmation. The peg is getting on and one from the same era came out of London Wall not long ago.
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White Wall is a little bit of a pain I think. I spent ages upping and downing getting the kit in then fell off in about a quarter of a second. Didn't find it bery satisfying although if you flash that move it might be a different story.
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White wall is a total pain in the arse to get the gear in. Shame cos the climbing is good.
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Don't remember that? Up, place some wires, down for a breather. Up again, RP in high, contorted rockover, keep hauling, peg, another move, all over. I'd be wary of the peg now though, can't recall if it's back-up-able
I'd say London Wall is safer cos it's all your own gear, and the mid-height rest is really very good (I changed my jumper on it) so it isn't as bad a stamina test as it appears from the deck.
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London Wall.
Behemoth's safe with friends although pumpy as.
I agree.
London wall....
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Good suggestion by Mark on Sole Survivor. I belayed a 5ft 14yr old on it and he nearly onsighted it. Was a bit trickier if short to clip the pegs, but still ok for the moves.
London wall is also not reach dependent, but knowing Tommy G's girlfriend (if I presuming the right people here) I'm not sure she'd be up for nasty finger jamming!
Goosey Goosey? I'm sure I've seen a pic of Lucy C on that.
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Apparently the knowledge in the eighties was to put it in first by leaning over the top.
If you wanted to get laughed at ...
Does it have to be grit? How about something like Miller's Tale (though that might be reachy?).
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I remember spending more time putting gear in than climbing when I did White Wall but only cos I kept thinking the next move was going to be the difficult one so was putting in three bits where one would have done. Very well protected, great climbing and quite easy, I'd say it would fit the bill.
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How about something like Miller's Tale (though that might be reachy?).
Are you guys the crew?
I don't generally equate "good first E5" with a route that probably hasn't been climbed in 15 years!!!
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How about something like Miller's Tale (though that might be reachy?).
Are you guys the crew?
I don't generally equate "good first E5" with a route that probably hasn't been climbed in 15 years!!!
Ah showing my age then; seems a shame, I really enjoyed the climbing through the bulge above the hole.
One way of compiling a list of good first E5s would be list of people's actual first E5s, so Edge Lane and then Track of the Cat for me.
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"London wall is also not reach dependent, but knowing Tommy G's girlfriend (if I presuming the right people here) I'm not sure she'd be up for nasty finger jamming!"
You might be suprised actually as she is pretty handy on finger locks/slim hand jamming.
Is Goosey Goosey well protected?
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Goosey Goosey? I'm sure I've seen a pic of Lucy C on that
Its very good but really pumpy to get the gear in, no rests and then the crux is quite a reach. Better as a snowball!
My first E5's were the usuals - Pebble Mill, The Snivelling, Entropy's, Track, White Wand.
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mine was The Knock, after that I can't remember. was probably routes like pebble mill, el vino collapso, tierdrop, artless etc. Remarkably some or fewer of those are still considered either E5 or even routes.
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Goosey Goosey isn't reachy is it? You don't have to reach past that top bulge / crack: there's a great finger jam in the middle of it, esp for thin fingers. It'd make a good one for someone who is as strong and fit as indicated in the original request and is looking for something well protected (as opposed to unprotected routes / highballs).
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Hold on a minute I thought the spec here was that the guy is a self professed strong wuss? And everyone is suggesting bold soloes with easy moves. :shrug:
Fair enough, if that's the game then ignore what I said before and go for one of the ones most people do first e.g. Sniveling, Track of the Cat, Artless. On that theme Curved Arete at Black Rocks fits the bill nicely, boulder prob start then progressively easier moves to the top, the bit after the boulder prob seemed about E1 to me.
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Keep up Yoot - he's a she!
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Although e4,ceasarian at hen cloud is perfect.safe as mugabees presidency.worth e5 for a onsight
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Goosey is reachy.
And I wouldn't want to be stuck on the top wall of Pebble Mill (again) not being able to make the 'easy' reach to the top break without some hideous smearing action. Not recommended if you are 5'2".
Of those suggested so far fitting the safe and strong bill:
Bat Out of Hell is well protected and fine for the short.
Moon Crack is fine at E5 given that it used to be E4. There's a reach at the top but you're not overly committed.
Knock is fine, and was E4
White Wall is fine to protect with RP's, and was E4 but I agree that it's not that good a route.
What about Vanquished? A boulder problem above some easier climbing.
Or Pacific Ocean Wall, bouldering into a baby bouncer.
At least these seem to fit the bill more than solo's above mats?
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I take it due to the time of year its Grit and not Lime thats wanted?
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not done loads in the Peak but is Strapadictomy not a good option (sorry if already mentioned above)?
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not if you're short.
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not done loads in the Peak but is Strapadictomy not a good option (sorry if already mentioned above)?
It's pretty powerful pressing into the hanging flake/crack if you've got a short wingspan.
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And that's from Ru so imagine how hard the press is if you're short and 'normal' strength.
Mind the top must be easier if you're short cos your legs are closer to your arms, or the rock, or someat. ;)
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My first E5's were the usuals - White Wand.
:o White Wand does NOT seem a good choice to just launch up as a first E5!
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Apparently the knowledge in the eighties was to put it in first by leaning over the top.
If you wanted to get laughed at ...
ha, did it like this the other day as well as having pads for the first bit! Overall, seemed the most fun way to climb it and would be a good one if you're going ok on your feet, not too reachy etc. obviously have to ditch the pads and place that wire off the smears (unpleasant I imagine) if you were after claiming e5 for your efforts/didn't want to get laughed at by the sounds of the above.... Track of the Cat easier but bolder.
Traffic Jam @ stoney on a milder day could be good. Bit pumpy getting the gear sorted but then you can reverse to the deck quite easily. Bouldery blast on small holds above good gear to the top.
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One way of compiling a list of good first E5s would be list of people's actual first E5s, so Edge Lane and then Track of the Cat for me.
Mine were
The Thin Air
Nature Trail
Entropys Jaw
The Snivelling
White Wall
Pebble Mill
The Knock
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The first E5's for me were because they were graded E4 which according to my logbook were - Jermyn St (Millstone), Pillar (High Tor), Dogs of Hoare (Pembroke) and China Spring (High Tor)
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Arme Blanche at Burbage North wouldn't be a bad first E5 to go for.
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The first E5's for me were because they were graded E4 which according to my logbook were - Jermyn St (Millstone), Pillar (High Tor), Dogs of Hoare (Pembroke) and China Spring (High Tor)
think mine might have been thin air,got it in guide as june 01.i did piece of mind 6 months before it,so i suppose that counts
neither what the op was after.
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Were they onsight or toproped first Mark?
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top roped :(
did pom one friday night after work on my own.i hadnt been climbing long (1 yr)but realised you didnt need strength to tick the e numbers.
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My first E5s were Track of the Cat and Vanquished...
Although I would say White Wand is by far the easiest I've done and is basically a boulder problem if you use pads...
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sniveling.
edge lane.
anything in the middle of the embankment.... simply for access.
rubicon roof... extended boulder problem.... though honeymoon blues is better.
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Not sure I agree with recommending potentially serious routes like W.Wand or Edge Lane as good first E5s. The climbing on Edge Lane may be easy, but if you fall off the crux it's 40-odd feet to a quarry floor. Maybe I'm wrong :shrug:
P.S. Surely Snivelling's about HVS ?
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And rubicon roof isn't a trad route, nevermind E5 (wasn't it E3 on pegs?)
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sorry...
i did do it on pegs first time mind.