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places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 05:39:19 pm

Title: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 05:39:19 pm

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4023/4620733479_e7c0dd114c.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mammutphoto/4620733479/)
Bouldering Trip USA (http://www.flickr.com/photos/mammutphoto/4620733479/#) by mammutphoto (http://www.flickr.com/people/mammutphoto/), on Flickr

Its been a year since I returned from what was a fantastic Euro tour. As we'd just ticked a load of venues off the "to do" list and as my better half didn't wish to return to any of these venues instantly (she fancied a little while to improve further despite the rapid improvement over the 6 month period) we decided to explore a bit more of what the UK had to offer.

Whilst I still fully intend to follow this line of thought I'll be finishing what I hope is my final stint in education this year. Technically by March, realistically Sept (so Oct/Nov trip) and feel like a more extravagant climbing holiday (2-3 weeks max!) is in order.

The problem is where do I (/we) start? We've still got quite a gap between us and there's a huge difference in personal preference. Ideally I'd like a 3 month trip but thats not likely for a while at least. Could people offer their views on the following:

Hueco
Bishop
Squamish
Utah
Colorado
Red River Gorge
Yosemite / Toulmne

or are there better venues that I should consider instead?

i.e.
Rocklands
Oz
New Zealand

I know its a bit vague and would be helpful if I could rule ropes in or out but I've asked a bunch of people over the last few weeks and had a varied response. The least helpful of which was from a well seasoned boulderer (lots of salt easy on the pepper) who with a long pause... finally answered "Font".

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 19, 2011, 05:47:29 pm

Well, with 2/3 weeks max, you may as well rule out Oz and New Zealand. Go when you have more time!
Yosemite bit iffy towards the time you are planning on going. Bishop and Hueco a tad warm still.
Colorado bouldering ie, RMNP might be a bit snowy towards the tail end of your dates.
Squamish risky weather wise then.
Rocklands not really the season either.

Does it have to be Oct/Nov? You are ruling a lot of stuff out based on personal experience.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 05:48:38 pm

I'd say after Sept is the main point although I would like it to be this year!

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2011, 05:53:22 pm

Just some quick thoughts -

October / November Rocklands will be be getting pretty damned hot (as will Oz, assuming you are thinking of Grampians / Arapiles), and Squamish pretty wet. Although you could get lucky.

2 weeks is a pretty short time for NZ, I think you need 3 weeks minimum to make the most of a trip there. It's a bloody long way.

Any of the US venues will be good, but Colorado will be beginning to get pretty chilly, I think Rockies often get heavy snows by early / mid November.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 05:58:26 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on January 19, 2011, 05:53:22 pm

I think you need 3 weeks minimum to make the most of a trip there.

Three weeks is possible, but that'll be it for the year. No other days spare so a lot would be riding on a good holiday.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 19, 2011, 06:09:30 pm

For that length trip in autumn I'd suggest Tuolomne-Yosemite-Bishop. Incredible scenery for your camera, plus the option for some mind-blowing trad experiences with a very lightweight rack (eg Snake Dyke - rack 2x quickdraws, 2x screwgates - top out on Half Dome!!!)

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on January 19, 2011, 06:26:02 pm

Quote from: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 05:58:26 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on January 19, 2011, 05:53:22 pm

I think you need 3 weeks minimum to make the most of a trip there.

Three weeks is possible, but that'll be it for the year. No other days spare so a lot would be riding on a good holiday.

If you plan going out there at another time for longer I would save it for that TBH.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 06:47:27 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on January 19, 2011, 06:09:30 pm

a very lightweight rack (eg Snake Dyke - rack 2x quickdraws, 2x screwgates - top out on Half Dome!!!)

Can you qualify how you can get away with that little?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 19, 2011, 06:48:05 pm

Quote from: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 06:47:27 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on January 19, 2011, 06:09:30 pm

a very lightweight rack (eg Snake Dyke - rack 2x quickdraws, 2x screwgates - top out on Half Dome!!!)

Can you qualify how you can get away with that little?

Its like walking upstairs!

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 06:51:55 pm

Haha

Snake Dike with Todd (http://vimeo.com/7090414)

check out 3:57

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 19, 2011, 07:09:12 pm

Quote

Can you qualify how you can get away with that little?

There's no gear other than the bolts! We soloed it and overtook a bunch of parties with full racks, all of whom were cursing the fact that they'd ignored the advice to take just a few draws. Its totally piss other than a little S or VS traverse on either the 2nd or 3rd pitch , but you'll never forget it - fuckin brilliant.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Carnage on January 19, 2011, 09:19:43 pm

Quote from: Paul B on January 19, 2011, 05:48:38 pm

I'd say after Sept is the main point although I would like it to be this year!

How late after Sept (or possibly late Sept/early Oct)?

Late Sept and through Oct is often an ideal time for the Grampians as Victoria stays cooler longer than NSW. Hoepfully, it will be a dry winter this year due to La Nina - (wet summer/dry winter?) so it could be great. You can get away with a sport rack and few cams for most of the stuff on Taipan or just boulder the whole time. If you can get 3 straight weeks, that should be plenty if you're staying there the whole time. The bouldering is amazing and the new guide should get you psyched if you can get hold of a copy (its pretty cheap direct from Grampians Bouldering.com). There's alot of stuff at every grade and its a magical place to spend time. You can either slum it in Stapylton campground in a tent or van or go higher class and rent one of the lodges at Mt Zero (if they haven't been washed away) as these are still cheap for your english pounds. This would be my choice at these times considering what others have said above.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: hairich on January 19, 2011, 10:22:55 pm

i agree with j brown.me and le did yosemite to bishop in october and it was mint.have got loads of trip info if ya need it paul pm me

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 20, 2011, 04:44:25 pm

Quote from: Carnage on January 19, 2011, 09:19:43 pm

How late after Sept (or possibly late Sept/early Oct)?

I can't really say for sure. I'm hoping a 6 month overrun will be enough so its the end of Sept by my reckoning.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Stubbs on January 20, 2011, 05:07:35 pm

Bishop is flipping amazing and you'll crush there being the crimp waif you are.  If you go to Yosemite first to flagellate yourself on some cracks and Tioga close, you can always go round via Lake Tahoe and take in some steep sport/bouldering/gambling/all you can eat sushi for $8 (delete as appropriate) before heading down to Beeshop.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: T_B on January 20, 2011, 05:34:48 pm

I wouldn't go to Oz for just 2 weeks, maybe 3 though. I was there from September through to January and I would be cautious of recommending September/October. There was hardly a soul there in late September and it was cold. Best time is November, or tuther side i.e. spring. Tis a great place tho to mix up well-protected trad with hard moves, awesome featured sport-trad style (though you need a strongish head for some of Taipan and an ability to levitate between features is handy. Bouldering as well of course.

States is the cheaper option, and as JB says, though Tuolmne might be chilly later on. And Bishop isn't everyone's cuppa (too rough/crimp orientated for me). Thing with the Valley is the bouldering is world class, the trad is world class, and there are even some brilliant sport routes.

Rocklands was hot in August last yr, I'd avoid in their summer.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 20, 2011, 05:36:27 pm

Quote from: T_B on January 20, 2011, 05:34:48 pm

States is the cheaper option, and as JB says, though Tuolmne might be chilly later on. And Bishop isn't everyone's cuppa

Peoples opinions on Bishop seem very mixed.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: T_B on January 20, 2011, 05:37:49 pm

Quote from: Paul B on January 20, 2011, 05:36:27 pm

Quote from: T_B on January 20, 2011, 05:34:48 pm

States is the cheaper option, and as JB says, though Tuolmne might be chilly later on. And Bishop isn't everyone's cuppa

Peoples opinions on Bishop seem very mixed.

Yeah, TBH I'd like to go again as I didn't really give it a chance last time. Totally trashed my skin on day 1 like a punter and never recovered really. The air is soooo dry up there. Not a good venue if you have eczema! There are some stunning features/boulders though and the town itself is cool.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Stubbs on January 20, 2011, 08:04:05 pm

People complain about the roughness at Bishop but it just wears your skin differently to Font or Grit for example.  If you take it easy and just do volume for a few days you soon develop iron hide fingertips and can pull on the tinies with no pain.  I went there for two and a half weeks in March 2009, climbed every day except 2 and came away with no splits.  A lot of people who whine about it seem to have dropped in on their way to or from Yos about ten years ago, when all they really wanted to do was trad climb, and it was probably too hot (it is in a desert after all).   There are also plenty of problems of all grades at the 'milks that don't involve any sharp holds at all.

Call me a heretic or whatever, but if the costs were the same I'd rather go there for two weeks than Font.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: AndyR on January 20, 2011, 08:12:28 pm

Quote from: Stubbs on January 20, 2011, 08:04:05 pm

Call me a heretic or whatever, but if the costs were the same I'd rather go there for two weeks than Font.

Me too - every time.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Carnage on January 20, 2011, 09:47:06 pm

Quote from: T_B on January 20, 2011, 05:34:48 pm

I would be cautious of recommending September/October. There was hardly a soul there in late September and it was cold. Best time is November

Really? - late Sept, early Oct is often rockin - Esp with around the October public holiday. I've been in Oct before and its been perfect (the average temp for Sept to Nov is 20 degrees), but Nov often has many much warmer days. Fine for Taipan but not if you want to boulder anything hardish.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2011, 08:52:11 am

Quote from: Stubbs on January 20, 2011, 08:04:05 pm

Call me a heretic or whatever, but if the costs were the same I'd rather go there for two weeks than Font.

Heretic or whatever.

Snowboard at Mammoth on rest days versus wander around Carrefour hmmm, which sounds better.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: T_B on January 21, 2011, 09:55:28 am

Quote from: Carnage on January 20, 2011, 09:47:06 pm

Quote from: T_B on January 20, 2011, 05:34:48 pm

I would be cautious of recommending September/October. There was hardly a soul there in late September and it was cold. Best time is November

Really? - late Sept, early Oct is often rockin - Esp with around the October public holiday. I've been in Oct before and its been perfect (the average temp for Sept to Nov is 20 degrees), but Nov often has many much warmer days. Fine for Taipan but not if you want to boulder anything hardish.

There wasn't much bouldering developed when I was there and the focus was certainly on Tapian, so I guess that's why I remember November as being the best month. Am sure mid October was good too, I just remember waking up to hail stones when I arrived in late September and scratting around for ppl to climb with.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 21, 2011, 05:06:28 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on January 19, 2011, 06:09:30 pm

For that length trip in autumn I'd suggest Tuolomne-Yosemite-Bishop. Incredible scenery for your camera, plus the option for some mind-blowing trad experiences with a very lightweight rack (eg Snake Dyke - rack 2x quickdraws, 2x screwgates - top out on Half Dome!!!)

This is starting to sound like a plan (that or Johnny is doing well at moving me away from boards and grooming me for some other purpose  ;D )

I know its much shorter but did you do Seperate Reality whilst you where there? Any other rec's for the trad section or any particulalry good reading on the matter?

(Finally I'll have an excuse to get an LX3/5 as I'm not carrying the SLR up those f*ckers!)

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 21, 2011, 05:12:31 pm

Quote

There wasn't much bouldering developed when I was there and the focus was certainly on Tapian, so I guess that's why I remember November as being the best month

I went to Taipan in the first week of December and it was far too hot even for sport. The locals suggested april or sept were the best times for routes, or winter for bouldering.

Quote

This is starting to sound like a plan (that or Johnny is doing well at moving me away from boards and grooming me for some other purpose  ;D )

 :great: Going to Yosemite is one of the great experiences in life. You'll not forget, or regret it.

Quote

I know its much shorter but did you do Seperate Reality whilst you where there? Any other rec's for the trad section or any particulalry good reading on the matter?

Got your name all over it! I suggested Snake Dyke initially because you wouldn't need to pack a rack. There are many other mega-classic routes but you'd need at least a rack of cams. Nuts are less useful, and I'd say racks are on average smaller than in the uk. Its usual to double up on cams for some routes though.

Quote

(Finally I'll have an excuse to get an LX3/5 as I'm not carrying the SLR up those f*ckers!)

 :dance1:

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 21, 2011, 05:21:36 pm

That's what I was worried about as I think Nat will struggle?

Doubling up on cams isn't too much of an issue I'll just need to fill a few gaps and then steal my Dads!

How about Toulmne?

Edit: typed on phone (badly)

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: T_B on January 21, 2011, 05:36:22 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on January 21, 2011, 05:12:31 pm

Quote

There wasn't much bouldering developed when I was there and the focus was certainly on Tapian, so I guess that's why I remember November as being the best month

I went to Taipan in the first week of December and it was far too hot even for sport. The locals suggested april or sept were the best times for routes, or winter for bouldering.

You need to get up early and be off the wall for 2pm when the sun hits. I did Serpentine on Christmas Eve  :P

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 21, 2011, 05:41:31 pm

Nat will struggle on what? Snake Dyke? No. On Seperate Reality? Maybe not as much as you...

Crack climbing will probably be a different set of skills for both of you. A few days at Millstone over the summer should set you right. There are loads of brilliant routes you could do together in The Valley and Tuolomne, Royal Arches and East buttress of El Cap are the first to spring to mind - both long VS-E1s.

Quote

You need to get up early and be off the wall for 2pm when the sun hits. I did Serpentine on Christmas Eve

My Hero! We were off the crag by 1pm. The locals assured me it was not routing season.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: T_B on January 21, 2011, 05:44:42 pm

Separate Reality is desperate. I got fully shut down on it. Proper upside down jamming for ladies hands/toes.

I tend to think of these venues as mainly multi-pitch, but Tuolumne has some good single pitch stuff. An awesome 5.11a called Black Angel, The amazing 11c crack Blues Riff, then good vertical sport knob pulling on the back of Pywiak Dome - Electric Africa 12c and Clash of the Titans 13a.

Some nice bouldering up there too.

Wicked multi pitch and less 'hardcore' than the valley in that there are holds  ;) all grades, with some cool 10s e.g. Lucky Streaks on Fairview Dome.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 21, 2011, 05:54:17 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on January 21, 2011, 05:41:31 pm

Nat will struggle on what? Snake Dyke? No. On Seperate Reality? Maybe not as much as you...

 :o

Quote

Crack climbing will probably be a different set of skills for both of you.

Amen, Mello was interesting at times.

Quote

The locals assured me it was not routing season.

Haven't you got a bald housemate to argue with? Something about an eliminate arete?

I better start trying to understand the grades over there as currently these numbers mean next to nothing.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: duncan on January 21, 2011, 09:45:23 pm

Bishop/Yosemite/Tuolumne/other bits of the Sierra have world-class everything except sport.  There is some good sport but it's not Ceuse.  With the range of altitudes between them you should be able to find somewhere in good condition from September to November. Two weeks would be worthwhile, three much better, giving you more time to acclimatise to the climbing style which can seem a bit unfriendly initially.   Possible down-sides? Snake Dike aside, I think you need a full trad. rack to get the most out of Tuolumne and Yosemite.  Getting a peak-season campsite in the Camp 4 can be a pain and you are not supposed to stay more than one week.  Having said that, I've spent more than 9 months of my life there on various visits and never failed to get a spot.  I think a short stay in Camp 4 is obligatory for historical/cultural reasons but there are plenty of official and unofficial alternatives in other parts of the park or just outside which many people prefer.

Colorado/Utah has world class trad. at Eldorado canyon, Indian Creek and on the desert towers.  The latter can be very trad.  October would be a good time and SW deserts are a great road-trip venue even without the climbing.  There is a fabulous book on desert tower climbing (http://deserttowersbook.com/) by 'Crusher' Bartlett complete with contribution from El Mocho (http://deserttowersbook.com/_BestPagePhotos/16_TitanFreeSpread.jpg).  I don't know much about the bouldering or sport in that part of the world.

Quote from: Paul B on January 20, 2011, 05:36:27 pm

Peoples opinions on Bishop seem very mixed.

I liked the bouldering alot, but I'm not much of a boulderer.

Quote from: T_B on January 21, 2011, 05:44:42 pm

Separate Reality is desperate. I got fully shut down on it. Proper upside down jamming for ladies hands/toes.

You've just made my week! 

For folk with average hands, SR is like a grit E2 5b such as Ceiling Crack followed by two thin-hand jamming moves where you invert and throw a toe around the lip. Small hands would make the crux easier but the lead-in harder.  It's 11d which equates to F7a+ :-\   

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 21, 2011, 09:51:05 pm

For later season I guess a less trad-centric desert trip could start with Las Vegas - sport at Red Rocks very close, J-Tree a couple of hours, then you could head east into the main desert, Zion, monument valley etc.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 21, 2011, 09:58:37 pm

Thanks for that. Rack shouldn't be an issue unless baggage becomes a problem.

What's the best way of getting info and topos? Surely one guide can't cover all the big stuff?

Maybe Vegas is a good idea we could tie up that wedding business while we're at it?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on January 21, 2011, 10:15:56 pm

Red Rocks is ace.

Take a look at the Handren Guide and you will want to head there tomorrow

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Red_Rocks_A_Climber_s_Guide_Editorial_Review_744.html (http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Red_Rocks_A_Climber_s_Guide_Editorial_Review_744.html)

http://www.redrocksguidebook.com/index.html (http://www.redrocksguidebook.com/index.html)

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 21, 2011, 10:32:48 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on January 21, 2011, 10:15:56 pm

Take a look at the Handren Guide and you will want to head there tomorrow

Wowza:
(http://[url=http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/cms/assets/0/1400-largest_monstersmall.jpg]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/cms/assets/0/1400-largest_monstersmall.jpg[/url])

SHIT!Isn't that Hunstmans Leap?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on January 22, 2011, 09:36:21 pm

Except lovely desert sandstone

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Doylo on January 23, 2011, 11:00:04 am

Paul B on seperate reality, now theres a show i'd like to see!

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 23, 2011, 01:14:45 pm

I'll make sure to send you a postcard  :kiss2:

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Johnny Brown on January 23, 2011, 01:32:21 pm

Its 2011. We want a video!

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on January 23, 2011, 03:55:42 pm

Quote from: Johnny Brown on January 23, 2011, 01:32:21 pm

Its 2011. We want a video!

OK... but my conditions are as follows, YOU MUST:

a) get a monkey to take stills from it (This must be a real monkey not Doyles 'monkey')
b) make a flick book
c) don't post it on the internet
d) try and sell it as an exclusive free gift to adorn climb/climber magazine

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Doylo on January 23, 2011, 04:05:05 pm

whats wrong with my monkey?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on January 23, 2011, 06:54:56 pm

It's had one spanking too many.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: nathan wind on January 26, 2011, 02:35:35 pm

Just read through this thread, but my head is well fuzzy through lack of sleep.. so apols if I haven't quite picked everything up and this post makes no sense..

The States would be awesome in Fall, good time to go, and like Johnny said, lots of potentially stunning photography.. though with 2/3 weeks I'd pick places you really wanted to be and just stick to those as the country is full of world class bouldering and trad and you could go slightly mad trying to fit it all in..

Loads of potential for roadtrips too, if you were following the weather then I'd suggest, Yosemite, Utah, maybe Vegas and SoCal then Bishop as a good fall ' early winter itinerary..

If I was to go on a bouldering trip in Fall then late Oct / Nov would be my choice as Yosemite should be ok, LCC and Joe's would be cool and Bishop starting to get good, and there's always Black Mountain in SoCal.. Bishop will defo be hot right through to the end of October, at least.. having been there in Oct / Nov, December / Jan and in Spring on various trips I'd say the last two weeks of Feb, first couple in March imo are the best times to be there.. if you are in that area in say September / early October defo check out Way Lake - excellent area developed by local wads such as Jeff Sillcox, Wills etc.. Tahoe should be in good nick too..

Up until about the beginning of November you should still be able to use the Tioga Pass to get from Yosemite to Bishop..

Hope this helps..

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Rabies on January 26, 2011, 03:09:42 pm

I went to the States on a bouldering (with some sightseeing) trip fall 2009 and the weather was fine to be honest.  Probably a tad warm if I was being cynical.  My trip was like this:

Late September - Flew into SLC and it was 100 degrees fahrenheit (no joke!). Stayed in SLC for a few days mooching around before the temps plummeted and it dumped it down with snow.  Had a good few days at LCC before moving on to Joe's Valley where the temps were pretty good but quite variable.  Then alternated between Joe's and Moab for a bit before heading to Vegas and then Flagstaff, AZ then back to Vegas.  I then went to Bishop early November and spent the rest of the trip.  For the most part weather and conditions in Bishop were pretty good.  I found that if it was warm I would head up to peabody boulders or rock creek.  If it was cold I'd go to the happies and sads.

I also went over to Yosemite early November for a few days as the Tioga Pass was reopened.  Apparently this is fairly unusual but the winter I went was a bit warmer than normal I think.  You may struggle to get Yosemite via the Tioga Pass in a typical November I think but I could be wrong.

Colorado would be a no go I reckon particularly for bouldering at RMNP.  Many people I met at various venues had come from RMNP because the season had basically finished (too snowy, baltic conditions etc).  You could go to Rifle for sport I suppose but if you're only there for a few weeks you're time is probably spent elsewhere.

Red Rocks trad/sport and Bishop or Yosemite and Bishop or Red River Gorge would be my recommendations for that time of the year

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2011, 04:36:16 pm

Thanks for all the previous input; a few extra questions:

What would people expect to pay for West coast flights?
Can you rent pads in bishop? (thinking about baggage with bouldering + big rack)
Accomodation options in Yosemite and Bishop?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2011, 04:41:50 pm

Flying I think it depends where to? have heard of folk getting good deals flying to Reno rather than LA or SF. I think you can get them for about £6-7oo though.

Remember states have changed visa requirements.

You can rent pads at Wilson's Eastside Sports. I think booking is recommended.

http://eastsidesports.com/eastside/node/9 (http://eastsidesports.com/eastside/node/9)

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2011, 04:45:01 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on February 02, 2011, 04:41:50 pm

Flying I think it depends where to? have heard of folk getting good deals flying to Reno rather than LA or SF. I think you can get them for about £6-7oo though.

Nat found some for £550 the other day so we might need to pull our fingers out.

Quote

Remember states have changed visa requirements.

Oh FFS.

Quote

You can rent pads at Wilson's Eastside Sports. I think booking is recommended.

Thanks.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2011, 04:49:46 pm

I've not had to use new visas, but I'm sure other folk have, it doesn't sound too bad, similar to australian system. I think you just need to sort it out with the embassy beforehand. Googling will tell you what you need to do.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: slackline on February 02, 2011, 04:55:33 pm

But they'll probably change it again in a few months and want to take toe prints as well as finger prints by the time you fly in  :wank:

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on February 02, 2011, 04:56:31 pm

do you need your tips to scan out? I'm worried that a comination of Bishop and Yosemite mightn't leave that as an option!

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: slackline on February 02, 2011, 05:16:57 pm

Don't think so, they scan rather than use ink so they'll still be able to take "prints" regardless of how trashed your tips are (finger print matching is done on key swirls and whorls and such like in the patterns of your fingers).

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on February 02, 2011, 05:32:03 pm

Quote from: slack---line on February 02, 2011, 04:55:33 pm

But they'll probably change it again in a few months and want to take toe prints as well as finger prints by the time you fly in  :wank:

At least they won't take fingerprint scan, mugshot and retina scan like when I entered on a temporary work visa via Houston.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Stubbs on February 02, 2011, 07:33:39 pm

Quote from: Paul B on February 02, 2011, 04:45:01 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on February 02, 2011, 04:41:50 pm

Remember states have changed visa requirements.

Oh FFS.

I think this is still the page you need to work through, it was free when I last went, but mentions Admin fee now... https://esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 02, 2011, 08:53:39 pm

I have had problems the last two time flying into America with them not being able to get a fingerprint reading. This was with a machine, not ink. Each time i was caused to miss my connecting flight while they, 'asked me some questions'

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: slackline on February 03, 2011, 12:03:36 am

What did you tell them and did they understand?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on February 03, 2011, 12:12:31 am

"no! no! no! its FAKE tan, I'm not Mexican"  :shrug:?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: ferret on February 03, 2011, 04:08:20 am

flown 5 times to the west coast (portland, oregon) in the last 2 years and havnt payed more than £500
take the time to search most times ive got £450

i few other points,
bishop will be hot, and i mean HOT shady tablelands choss is ok but the primo granite lines will shred you in no time. could still hav a few days of good fun cruising moderate classics in a perfect setting tho, personally id save it till youve a chance to go in the winter. october- january at the buttermilks is like the diffence between august and october on the grit for me

tuolume sounds good, not climbed here much but i think this is the perfect season for it, so beautiful

the valley is also good that time of year but for all that its a must visit kinda place, i hate it for the following reasons;
rules, regulations, (extremely fascist) rangers
queing for routes
fat american tourists everywhere
loud mouths with racks that they fill the entire carpark with
polished rock
heat humidity rain really when are the climbing conditions actually GOOD there
BEARS bain of everybodys life with a vehicle

still you gotta go once, tho personally i rate squamish much higher

just got back from red rocks, must say has some awesome routes, i imagine october to be hot tho, we had 1 day in jan where it hit 70 and this place is like a reflective oven, any holds in the sun you could have literally cooked eggs on. however lots of places with partial or all day shade but not if you wanna climb 5.13

for a more of mission based around sport climbing, how about  the red river gorge, certainly one of the best sport venues in the us in prime conditons in october and probably cheaper flights too

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: jmews on February 03, 2011, 04:51:32 am

One thing to consider - if you are currently under 25 or a student, anyway - is to look at flights through STA. I recently flew out one way to SFO for £270 direct with BA from Heathrow. One way is normally several hundred more expensive, so I imagine return fares would be as good.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: yorkshirewarcry on February 03, 2011, 04:56:50 am

I flew into LA a few weeks ago and paid (well...the company paid...) <£400 return Manchester - LAX.

My other half is flying out tomorrow and paid £390 or something like that...bargain!

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Adam Lincoln on February 03, 2011, 02:37:08 pm

Quote from: Paul B on February 03, 2011, 12:12:31 am

"no! no! no! its FAKE tan, I'm not Mexican"  :shrug:?

no no no, its called a 'getting outside tan'

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on February 09, 2011, 01:04:26 pm

Quote from: ferret on February 03, 2011, 04:08:20 am

BEARS bain of everybodys life with a vehicle

Pritch managed a good one liner re:bears that left Nat a little unsettled  :thumbsup:

Anyway, looking around the accomodation options seem very odd. Are there any other rec's other than Camp4?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Paul B on March 20, 2011, 04:19:18 pm

Currently weighing up finances with regards to this trip and started looking at the various campsites.

Does anybody have any first hand knowledge of the options? Looking at the National Park website its possible to book some sites but not Camp4, are these tourist hell and would we be better just chancing it on Camp4 (struggling to rationalise the latter due to the vast cost of flights and my need to plan things)?

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Stubbs on March 20, 2011, 04:51:55 pm

We stayed in the Upper Pines, totally fine, had a big RV on one side of us and some climbers on the other.  Nice and quiet in the evenings, which is what I was into really.

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: tommytwotone on April 15, 2011, 01:05:59 pm

Word, am considering a stateside expedition myself, am planning the following:

Fly to Vegas
Do the Vegas thing for a day or two
Rent car
Drive to Utah
Climb at either Joe's Valley or go to Moab and do stuff there
Drive back to Vegas
Fly home

Can anyone offer me any info on any of the above? Basically I'm travelling solo, and will be bouldering only.

I'm assuming that I won't be taking a pad, so I'll need to rent one - either from Moab or somewhere near Joe's?
What guidebooks should I get hold of?
Anything entertaining to do on rest days etc?
Any recommmendations on cheap car hire for a couple of weeks?

Cheers all...

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: SA Chris on April 15, 2011, 02:12:03 pm

There's looks to be some pretty good bouldering at Red Rocks just outside Vegas too. The guide is available from Desert Rock Sports.

http://www.desertrocksportslv.com/ (http://www.desertrocksportslv.com/) and they rent pads. You could pick one up there at the start of the trip, and drop it off at the end, but at $15 a day it may be easier to buy and see if anyone at the rock gym next to DRS will buy it at the end of the trip - stick a notice up there or in the shop before you leave Vegas? Try and find a partner online to do at least a route or two, even just punting up Cat in the Hat or something is an amazing experience.

Re the Vegas trip - prices hike up approx 5 x over weekends and it gets seriously busy, so avoid if possible.

http://www.desertrocksportslv.com/orders.html (http://www.desertrocksportslv.com/orders.html)

You could do a big circular trip Vegas - Joe's (there is not much at Joe's other than boulders, but all amenities in Price). The across to Moab - there is bouldering at the bend, but AFAIK not much else bouldering wise, then down to Flagstaff; nice college town, with a fair bit of climbing nearby, then back to Vegas on the old route 66. When you going though? Between now and Octoberish it will be pretty damn hot.  You can probably get the Utah bouldering guide in DRS too, there's either the Wolverine publishing one which only covers the larger areas or there is a more in depth locally produced one with also has Triassic Area near Joe's in it and plenty of other spots.

Rest days - you could hit the national parks for some amazing scenery; Grand Canyon, Zion, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Arches, Bryce, as well as Monument Valley. They are all amazing, but you can overdose on red sanstone if you go to them all. You could try having rest days in Vegas, but the place is tiring! See a Cirque du Soleil show if you can.

Car hire, just shop about and hope you get an upgrade, we scored!

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: tomtom on April 15, 2011, 03:41:42 pm

Quote from: tommytwotone on April 15, 2011, 01:05:59 pm

Word, am considering a stateside expedition myself, am planning the following:

Fly to Vegas
Check in at a Casino Hotel
Gamble solid for 72 hours
Get very very very drunk
Get Married
Wake up with an enormous hang-over
Fly home

Can anyone offer me any info on any of the above? Basically I'm travelling solo, and will be gambling only.

I'm assuming that I won't be taking a pad, Any recommmendations on a cheap divorce lawyer for a couple of weeks after I get back?

Cheers all...

sounds like a top trip 3T  ;)

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: tommytwotone on April 15, 2011, 06:47:57 pm

Quote from: tommytwotone on April 15, 2011, 01:05:59 pm

Word, am considering a stateside expedition myself, am planning the following:

Fly to Vegas
Check in at Hooters Casino
Win the Hold 'Em Tournament
Get very very very drunk
Use tournament winnings to rent suitable vehicle for climbing mission: http://www.dreamcarrentals.com/cars-amghummer2.php (http://www.dreamcarrentals.com/cars-amghummer2.php)
Arrive at US Bouldering location
Decree all problems soft for the grade "compared t't 'Cliff"
Fight a bear and win
Impress locals with my wit and charm
Fly home

Cheers all...

Nearly...

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: tomtom on April 15, 2011, 07:00:30 pm

Quote from: tommytwotone on April 15, 2011, 06:47:57 pm

Quote from: tommytwotone on April 15, 2011, 01:05:59 pm

Word, am considering a stateside expedition myself, am planning the following:

Fly to Vegas
Check in at Hooters Casino
Win the Hold 'Em Tournament
Get very very very drunk
Use tournament winnings to rent suitable vehicle for climbing mission: http://www.dreamcarrentals.com/cars-amghummer2.php (http://www.dreamcarrentals.com/cars-amghummer2.php)
Arrive at US Bouldering location
Decree all problems soft for the grade "compared t't 'Cliff"
Fight a bear and win
Impress locals with my wit and charm
Fly home

Cheers all...

Nearly...

Thats how to roll :)

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: tommytwotone on April 15, 2011, 07:02:21 pm

On reflection, the Hummer is only worth going for if it's on 42 inch rims or something...reckon this would be more suitable.

http://www.dreamcarrentals.com/cars-pontiacgto68.php (http://www.dreamcarrentals.com/cars-pontiacgto68.php)

Title: Re: Stateside (or elsewhere?)
Post by: Stubbs on April 16, 2011, 12:10:02 am

This may be useful Triple T http://www.joesvalleyguidebook.com/ (http://www.joesvalleyguidebook.com/)