UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Drew on January 17, 2011, 10:33:32 pm
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Right... not sure whether it's worth putting this in here, or somewhere else. It's probably been done before, but it's a worthwhile alternative finish, to an established classic.
Basically, whilst doing a bit of a circuit at the Plantation, I decided to do a different finish to the Steep Traverse. Start as normal, but once you get to the arete climb either straight up the arete (eliminating the two pockets - involves a heel on the jug on the good hold on the arete), or rock onto the sidepull hand/foothold (involves a huge pinch - only those with big hands need apply).
Assuming it's actually a first ascent (I'm not holding my breath), some details:
Date: Today
First Ascentionist: Either James Turnbull, or Drew Withey (not sure if there was a dab or not)
Grade: Tricky... it's harder than the original, but it's not 7a. Maybe 6c+? More like hard 6c
Style: Eliminate, but fun.
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whats the steep traverse? if its the problem left of captain log everybody and their dog has done these finishes
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i have always known this as the bad landing traverse and have seen jamies dog ronnie do this