UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: yorkshireman on January 14, 2011, 05:11:47 pm
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anyone any ideas for some font specific training so i can get the most out of a trip?
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try the search function
also try searching for:
slopers, technique and injury prevention
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how long till your trip?
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I recommend consuming at least two pastries per morning, one cheese baguette at lunch and at least one bottle of red per night to replicate the conditions you will be climbing under in the forest.
Otherwise I'd train open hand strength and core tension.
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Otherwise I'd train open hand strength and core tension.
and foot work
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Maybe some cooking lessons? ;)
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train 2 or 3 days on; so you can get the most out of your trip - train skin
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I recommend consuming at least two pastries per morning, one cheese baguette at lunch and at least one bottle of red per night to replicate the conditions you will be climbing under in the forest.
Otherwise I'd train open hand strength and core tension.
Also, get some old dude who can climb only one of your training routes. Just as you're about to try it, instruct him to rock up and cruise it. Preferably littering old bits of towel as he goes up.
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I go 20th march.I've been doing some core for the last few weeks and have started doing more sloper work on the beastmaker but my indoor climbing seems to be more sloper based lately anyway so should be good training.thinking maybe some tricep training too.it's more how to train than what to train.
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I recommend consuming at least two pastries per morning, one cheese baguette at lunch and at least one bottle of red per night to replicate the conditions you will be climbing under in the forest.
Also also, you could practice driving to a Decathlon every time it rains. You really need to develop a decent threshold of tolerance for this.
edit: more useful advice: I found that bench presses and shoulder matrix weights exercises were helpful. I went for a month last year and it was the first trip that I didn't get shoulder tendinitis.
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thinking maybe some tricep training too.
I forgot - train top-outs
you will get very tired if you are not used to those mantley top outs day after day - even on easy circuits
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have plenty of experience of driving to decathlon at
Villiers en biere and spending time at carrefour.
Have been to font before just not for about 8 years and in hoping I will get better while I'm there
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Train your French language skills :thumbsup:
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Surely just knowing the word "non" and "pfft" are enough.
Shoulders, triceps and mantelling skills. Find someone who owns a Beetle and practice going from a sitter to standing on the roof using only the door handle. Must be a new beetle without roof rails.
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or do post boxes from a hanging start (no heels obviously)
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Wide arm press ups are rumoured to prevent Font elbow. Otherwise the pastry advice is good.
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Eat lots of cheap chorizo chopped into everything and I'd advocate a few beers before that bottle of wine to line the stomach.
Make sure you get used to rolling out with a heavy head at about 4pm in the afternoon at Jennings o clock! Think about climbing then lie on the mat and eat some pastries.
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I don't drink :whistle:
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and yet you call yourself a Yorkshireman?
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Find someone who owns a Beetle and practice going from a sitter to standing on the roof using only the door handle. Must be a new beetle without roof rails.
Shit! My missus has a new beetle and I've never tried that, excuse me I'm off to the garage...
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It's many years since I was in Font, but from memory I would support all the advice about practcing mantling/top-outs. Also: reversing scary highball problems, after you realise what you just did was the easiest way to the top of the tall boulder you are now standing on top of :(
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I'll fully support top-out practice, add in down-climbing. On her first trip my daughter ran up a problem, then said "where's the descent?" After a brief discussion about preparation and thought she down climbed; I went grey. Good footwork and flexibility helps, and climb on slabs too. Try and do plenty out on the grit, same style of climbing. Not everything in Font revolves around overhanging stuff.
Learn some conversational French language, it's polite as well as useful. And brush up your pastry/ommelette (how do you spell that? the middle section always gets me)/ chocolate/ cheese/ bread eating skills. Make sure your car is covered by the Automobile Association and get BMC cover. My friend Terry didn't and then broke his leg, a very expensive way of saving money. Also, "oi Clouseau!" is a very bad way to call a Gendarme.
Oh, remember to smile ;D. But that bit's easy in the forest.
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Wide arm press ups are rumoured to prevent Font elbow.
Also the Dodgy Elbows bit here http://www.athlon.com.au/articles.htm (http://www.athlon.com.au/articles.htm) has some good info about Brachioradialis strains (?) aka Font Elbow. I would take a bit of theraband with you, weighs nothing and might be useful.
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I always come back from font climbing better than when I left, I've decided that it's the volume of climbing I'm doing (all those orange and blue circuits) having a massive impact on my technique. Technique, it seems, is one of those things that wall climbing and hanging off a finger board can't really train. Who would have thunk it!
get your arse outdoors lots, don't worry about the grades just get lots of climbing on rock under your belt.
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let me see you're climbing orange and blue circuits and saying its good for technique which wall climbing and fingerboarding can't train? have i just walked into comedy hour?
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Now that you've graced the thread with your presence sunbeam, yes it is comedy hour.
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haha! Lee's comment amused me greatly so it must be.
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Maybe the concept isn't that far off the mark though. I have just bought a Beastmaker to regain some strength ahead of Font in May and my current standard is about that of a blue circuit punter.......logic!
:P
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People are always banging on about Font elbow, but by far the most serious injury (especially to an orange/ blue circuit punter like me :P) is Font toe, this is the potentially serious condition caused by stubbing your toes on a roots/ rocks/ gang of Dutch whilst trying to follow a circuit and forgetting to look at the ground.
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I find one of the major issues is avoiding crushing/snapping a fresh baguette when trying to carry 6 pairs of boots/chalk/water/camera/guidebook/clothes in the same bag as well as a couple of pads. Need to invest in some sort of baguette protector similar to those banana ones :-\
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this goes well with dragons
Yoinked from Saveur.com, this Sac a Baugette bag has a removable, washable lining, a stash pocket for your keys and phone, and a removable baguette quiver!
(http://www2.worldpub.net/images/saveurmag/634-SAV0710_fare_016B_400x.jpg)
http://undiscoverednyc.com/2010/09/14/protect-ya-baugette/ (http://undiscoverednyc.com/2010/09/14/protect-ya-baugette/)
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I must say I'm impressed. Both practical and highly fashionable!
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I find one of the major issues is avoiding crushing/snapping a fresh baguette when trying to carry 6 pairs of boots/chalk/water/camera/guidebook/clothes in the same bag as well as a couple of pads. Need to invest in some sort of baguette protector similar to those banana ones :-\
Any bag with ice axe/millstone tooling attachements = sorted
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Yoinked from Saveur.com, this Sac a Baugette bag has a removable, washable lining, a stash pocket for your keys and phone, and a removable baguette quiver!
(http://www2.worldpub.net/images/saveurmag/634-SAV0710_fare_016B_400x.jpg)
:great: a forest, a quiver on your back ...would anyone else feel the need to accessorise with a green hat with a feather?
All together now "dum de dum dum de dim riding through the glen ...."
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Awesome chalk bucket that.
Everyone knows that campusing is the best training for font :)
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I find one of the major issues is avoiding crushing/snapping a fresh baguette when trying to carry 6 pairs of boots/chalk/water/camera/guidebook/clothes in the same bag as well as a couple of pads. Need to invest in some sort of baguette protector similar to those banana ones :-\
I find my daughter is now big enough to be enslaved as a food carrier. Most of it gets there, even a teenager can't eat a days food for three people on the walk in to Sabots.
Oh, Yorkshireman, a bit of training I forgot to mention... learn to cook.