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the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: stevespar on January 09, 2011, 07:09:44 pm
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hey guys, couldnt find a post on this anywhere so i thought id start fresh,
any ideas if its possible to fit a fingerboard to plaster walls?
shitty new age building materials,
thanks in advance for replies!!
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Yes it is, although it can take some effort.
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This should help. Second page. (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/Mounting_fingerboards.pdf) Doesn't sound like a great solution though!
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I seem to remember my Metolious board had a guide of how to mount it when I bought. Try their website. You are gonna need a stud finder and mount it to the supporting beams that run in the walls that the plaster boards will be mounted on. It would probably be less hassle to just move house! ;)
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cheers for the replies! i may have to mount it on a pull up bar :-\
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With timber frame walls there are almost always upright supports either side of the door jambs. Also there will be timber running across the ceiling between the pieces of plasterboard.
You can see them in the first installation on this page.
http://www.lets-do-diy.com/Projects-and-advice/Walls/Building-a-stud-partition-frame.aspx (http://www.lets-do-diy.com/Projects-and-advice/Walls/Building-a-stud-partition-frame.aspx)
Affix timber to these joists (make sure you've definitely found them by using a stud finder if unsure) then fix the fingerboard to the timber.
I hope that makes sense.
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use 15ft bolts that reach right across the room the other side till they hit brick.
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cheers for the replies! i may have to mount it on a pull up bar :-\
not cheap admittedly but preferable to mounting on a pull-up bar?.. http://www.climbingworks.com/shop/accessories/fingerboards/highball-powerpanel/ (http://www.climbingworks.com/shop/accessories/fingerboards/highball-powerpanel/)
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With timber frame walls there are almost always upright supports either side of the door jambs. Also there will be timber running across the ceiling between the pieces of plasterboard.
You can see them in the first installation on this page.
http://www.lets-do-diy.com/Projects-and-advice/Walls/Building-a-stud-partition-frame.aspx (http://www.lets-do-diy.com/Projects-and-advice/Walls/Building-a-stud-partition-frame.aspx)
Affix timber to these joists (make sure you've definitely found them by using a stud finder if unsure) then fix the fingerboard to the timber.
I hope that makes sense.
not all internal plasterboard walls have wooden studs, some have a metal frame but most will be wooden. If so then fix some thick ply or wooden battern to the studs and then your fingerboard to that
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What Jim said, or a bit of no more nails on the back and bobs yer uncle.
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I mounted mine on plasterboard wall. I backed the board onto a Wooden Plank and then screwed the plank onto the studs behind the plasterboard with lots of screws. It's fine for pullups/dead hangs but not good for anything dynamic. Use an electronic stud (Q jokes) detector to find location of them behind plasterboard
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I had this same dilemna and spent a while drilling right through the wall, bolting ply wood each side so that there was no fear of it pulling through and the load was being directed through the doorframe. All of the remaining holes on the beastmaker were then drilled through one side and put into extra (metal) plasterboard fixings.
Upon completion I decided it looked shit and took the board off and mounted it only on the plasterboard fixings. Surprse suprise it was rock solid (and no its not just me thats hung on it!). Each fixing is rated at something like 25kg and the ikea box (mounted in the same way) above my bed hasn't yet fallen and crushed me to death either.
It still looked shit as there was now four holes big enough for 14mm coach bolts.
If I was to mount it again I'd do so on a powerbar, its very hard to do one armed work in a doorframe without hitting the sides.