UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => sponsors => Topic started by: ukb on January 04, 2011, 11:56:04 am
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(http://ukbouldering.com/media/images/hangar_ad.jpg)
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:bounce: :bow: :beer2: :thumbsup:
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Looks very good wish you every success will check it out on my journey north on a friday night. whats the entry fee couldnt see it on the web site? ;D :bounce:
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Had the privilege of a sneaky test-run this evening: it seemed great, much bigger than it looks on the video on the other thread, loads of space, great shapes, interesting problems. Phase II will make it massive. Looking forward to Saturday.
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;D :thumbsup: :dance1: :great:
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Report?
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Too many slopers.
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Did I meet you today John? I was the one climbing really badly.
Report: = great (and not too many slopers).
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Yeah I think so. Were you climbing with Pete? I just felt that a lot of the harder problems revolved around marginal slopers. I like slopers but when there is too many indoors their friction deteriorates really quickly rendering alot of problems almost impossible. Apart from that I thought the range of angles and features was brilliant and the quality of problems was generally very good. The building is also light and airy and there was a really good atmosphere in there.
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I only stuck to the easier cicruits but they were well set with tendon friendly holds and only a few rapey crimps! lots of wide pinches/slopey holds... was good fun!
It's also nice and cool in the building, so it didn't get too warm even with a lot of people in there.
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looking forward too getting over here at some point this year, hope it takes off well ;D
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Looks good! I'll make it a point to look in and spend a few hours killing my fingers.
Good luck with it!
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It was pretty good in there yesterday, a lot of small children running around so you had to keep an eye open with them running underneath you but otherwise awesome. Lots of pretty cool traverses and nice problems.
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I just felt that a lot of the harder problems revolved around marginal slopers.
Ahh, too many slopers on the harder problems - that'll be why I didn't notice. Yeah, that was me.
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I though overall it was fab. Lots of variety in the problems and angles. Yes, there were lots of slopers, but you very rarely get boney crimps indoors, so that didn't detract from the pleasure. There wasn't anything super steep, but that will come in the next phase I guess. The atmosphere was great, lots of people having fun. As for having lots of kids (well, one of them was mine), I think it's great that they could go along and enjoy themselves and climb in safety.
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Yeh, wasn't so much a complaint about the kids, just had to keep your eyes open. You know what kids are like
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IAs for having lots of kids (well, one of them was mine), I think it's great that they could go along and enjoy themselves and climb in safety.
Just remembered that I cratered onto my son's head from the top of the wall :oops: :o Luckily the restorative powers of Lucozade healed him :thumbsup:
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Ha ha you actually forgot about that!? I thought your comment about kids climbing in safety was tongue in cheek. I was going to say I distinctly remember one man falling from the top of the wall and totalling this kid!
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That's hilarious Andy! Top dad skills.
As for the wall, I went down there today and thought it was brilliant. Yeah some more crimps would help, but the angles and the problems were fantastic on the whole I thought. Some of the harder (ie yellow and white) problems were really, really well thought out. I often find at bouldering walls that I can easily climb up to a certain level but get stopped dead by everything above that level, and that no matter how much work I put in, I just can't progress either in that session or further sessions. Often just because of a stopper move. However, today I found that I did progress on stuff and felt that more progress is likely in future visits. Maybe I'm just a bit shit, but I don't know, I did think that the problems lent themselves towards gradual progress and unlocking (similar to real boulder problems).
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Dear All,
It is most heartening to see such a tide of overwhelming postive comments about our new wall. Granted there were hiccups here and there :oops: and I will chat a little more about these tomorrow when I'm not semi-comatose :alky: from overwork/undersleep/death syndrome.
Our opening weekend was a great success with at least several people turning up of which some climbed. All I can accurately say about the exact numbers is it took Mark 1hr5mins to hoover the mats.
That said we are all dead chuffed about the wall, psyched by the postive feedback and keen to get on and correct the teething problems that any new business is prone to make.
Huge thanks for those of you who came and thanks to everyone thinking of coming!
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IAs for having lots of kids (well, one of them was mine), I think it's great that they could go along and enjoy themselves and climb in safety.
Just remembered that I cratered onto my son's head from the top of the wall :oops: :o Luckily the restorative powers of Lucozade healed him :thumbsup:
Ah was that you! Was he the one as you were leaving saying "Why" to everything you said? Haha. Also to be honest I thought there was a 50/50 balance of crimps and slopers and for once was pulling harder on the slopers which hasn't happened before, probably because of the new holds so no need to get hopes up haha. Could maybe do with a few more crimpy problems but not many more I think
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Ah was that you! Was he the one as you were leaving saying "Why" to everything you said?
No that will have been Senior talking to Junior ;)
Congratulations guys on what sounds to have been a great opening. Really looking forward to checking the wall out this week.
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Monolith, you were a topic of conversation between me and Sean Hoppo. There's a nasty crimpy problem that's got you written all over it.
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Just remembered that I cratered onto my son's head from the top of the wall :oops: :o Luckily the restorative powers of Lucozade healed him :thumbsup:
I sincerely hope that was son the elder. Could have done some serious damage to the Younger. Especially feeding him Lucozade.
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Yes it was the elder son who acted as a soft landing zone for his father and he does have an inquiring mind. I wouldn't feed the younger son Lucozade, he's happy with milk. Or land on him from the top of the wall. That would do him some damage. But not as much as Mrs F would do to me when she found out :spank:
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Monolith, you were a topic of conversation between me and Sean Hoppo.
He's all Hoppo ever thinks about :kiss1:
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Maiden visit tonight and i thoroughly enjoyed myself. Very friendly welcome, great coffee, free cake and a thoroughly engaging set of problems. I will most certainly be back, soon...
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just read the part about the child take down,
made me laugh i took out two children at my local wall the other day (not on purpose ;))
they do tend too go abit crazy the ol' kiddies
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Does anyone have the opening times? (i'm probably a complete idiot or just plain lazy but I can't find them on their website). Thinking of going tomorrow...
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12 till 10 in the week and 10 till 8 weekends.
You are right about it being hard to find on the website, I couldn't find it and got the above times off the facebook group.
Needs to be made a bit more prominent on the website.
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I went today and was quite impressed. Varied angles and wall features make the climbing interesting. I felt that there was an equal amount of slopers, finger jugs and crimps on the routes I tried. I thought the routes were quite burly (a good thing) and leggy - lots of heel hooks, rock overs, toe pulls and long drops from the top of problems (a good thing, but my legs are more trashed than my arms). No kids running around today. And great value at £7 with no membership/admin/enrollment charge! (which I've always thought of as a rip off). Will go again soon.
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Went to check it out yesterday. Lots of lovely shapes to climb on.
The problems themselves were good with nothing too height dependent. They have done well in terms of setting.
I didn't feel that the slopers dominated and they has a good variety of holds. However I think many climbing centres concentrate on using tiny crimps too much. New holds were a bit rapey on the skin, but that it to be expected.
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Monolith, you were a topic of conversation between me and Sean Hoppo. There's a nasty crimpy problem that's got you written all over it.
I think a nasty juggy problem probably has my name written all over it after last night. A three week diet of fig rolls, Schneider Weisse and Pepsi wasn't exactly fuel for the fire. Alas, the new facility is brilliant and really looking forward to seeing phase two. The only thing missing last night seemed to be Crouchie camping out under the project circuit.
Great work guys.
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Went on sat too. You can tell the guys have given the panels and layout some thought. Hanging aretes, slopey rails and interesting shapes and curves galore. My first thought was there was nothing steep enough.. but you kinda dont realise that there is, the back corner is a sly one, big as hell. The problems were good and im guessing they'll get even better when they get the feel of the wall and learn the tricks of the features. It definately lends itself to interesting routes. Having the big circuit was good and great for warming up/down on.
My only slight gripe was the core holds, they are good on relatively easy problems but 'personally' i find them strange and tweeky on hard problems, you know you never feel happy laying one on for them, especially the strange pockets, they give me the fear. But, there was a few other types and im sure more variety will come. The only other thing, there was a pretty damp atmosphere, i know it did piss it down overnight, and there a few roof leaks, so that'll prob be why, but we all did comment about it, this i guess is something that would be good to look at down the line, if fixing the leaks doesnt sort it, which i think they were doing.
One thing to be said, its great to have another decent wall in the nw, and for 7 quid and no membership charge, will be making the trip down for sure. Good quality brews too. :wave:
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How did the price of the brews compare though? That's the real question.
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Get with the times andy, price is old hat, its quality that counts now!! ;)
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So it wasn't poured out of a thermos flask then? :P
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:lol: no that trick is out of the bag im getting frisked now at some walls.
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I'll go down again maybe thurs after a couple of rest days Tom! 4 days on was a bot painful today.
Running out of problems now which aren't too left shoulder intensive, so had a step wall session yesterday back on some nice filthy crimpy v8's and then out on the grit to crush font 6a's and get shut down on everything else :boohoo:
Watching Hoppo try anything on the grit made up for it though ;)
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Deffo the funniest day watchin Hoppo flap on the v2 slabby grit arete such a beast :bow:
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Please start to film this. I'll feel like looking in a mirror (except Sean's good).
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F*** the haters
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We don't hate you Sean, we just want you to improve in so many aspects of your life... :kiss2:
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When we say improve we mean improve your:
a) manners
b) drop the hatred towards random strangers
c) take your rubbish out of the car with you!!
d) footwork
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F*** the haters
Did you go to business school to learn that? ;)
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He's practicing his media relations when he goes into banking! :thumbsup:
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c) take your rubbish out of the car with you!!
:lol:
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I see :wank:
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Also, the coke bottle in the back of the car was the only thing i left apart from the slippers. The pie wrappers belong to crouch!
Gritstone is terrible and so is stanage. Ben i like you. Thanks, bye.
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The pie wrappers belong to crouch!
Standard!
Gritstone is terrible
False.
so is stanage.
True.
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I don't eat pies, I'm an athlete :whistle:
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I see :wank:
(http://www2.baby99.co.uk/f-3/JACKINBOX/Jack-in-a-Box.jpg)
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I don't eat pies, I'm an athlete :whistle:
:lol:
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Just a little snippet there for the new wall owners to judge the pedigree of the locals ;)
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quick question
do they have a comp wall?
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quick question
do they have a comp wall?
Not yet. That'll be along in phase 2 - aka the Steepness.
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word...know when that'll be?
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About 8 weeks time. Hopefully.
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Had a phone call last night from Dyer asking how far apart campus rungs were supposed to be, guessing it was for this place. 33cm thats right isnt it? :whistle:
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I thought the 'standard' was 200mm or 220mm.
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I thought the 'standard' was 200mm or 220mm.
20cm rings a bell
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Quote from the Moon website: "An ideal campus board will have a few different sized rungs, spaced at around 22cm apart with up to 9 numbered rungs going upwards." I'm not sure if that is that actual gap between the finger surface and the base of the next rung or finger surface to finger surface. The most important thing is the angle as some walls (probably due to space restrictions) put up campus boards that are not steep enough and you end up dragging various body parts up them. I would say the one at Awesome Walls (Liverpool) is spot on apart from the fact the side with the smallest rungs is flush with the wall.
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The most important thing is the angle as some walls (probably due to space restrictions) put up campus boards that are not steep enough and you end up dragging various body parts up them. =
I believe as well the angle sweet spot is between 14-16 deg. Ditto the awesome board is superb.
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New problems?
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New V3-V5 circuit, comp circuit from V2-V8
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New V3-V5 circuit, comp circuit from V2-V8
Cheers. I might even have a chance on some of the comp routes...
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I sense more hustling going down! :thumbsup:
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New V3-V5 circuit, comp circuit from V2-V8
Cheers. I might even have a chance on some easily crush the comp routes...
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To be honest the comp routes are well crushable. Most are V2-3 and only a couple harder than V4. They are on the whole excellent though, with a quality run and jump problem amongst them.
And I cannot believe that Andy tried to accuse someone else of hustling... You are the hustler's hustler.
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Aaron wouldn't hustle, he's far too modest. He lets his crushing do the talking.
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He lets his crushing do the talking.
:lol:
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He lets his footwork do the talking.
:whistle:
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He lets his egyptians do the talking.
;)
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It's the power bangles for sure!
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The yellow v5-7 are being reset on sunday/monday, a few new problems which are slightly trickier for the beasts on here.Come down! :dance1:
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The yellow v5-7 are being reset on sunday/monday, a few new problems which are slightly trickier for the beasts on here.Come down! :dance1:
Because your a great advert for them? :shrug:
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Dogshit sandwiches now available. Get 'em while they're hot.