UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Bonjoy on January 04, 2011, 09:25:11 am
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Another Millstone corker from the Farrar stable to report. Climbed yesterday. This is the vertical square cut arete forming the left side of the start of Great West Road (2nd arete left of Green Death if you only know the boulder probs) up its left side to a ledge at about 6 metres.
I’d abseiled and cleaned the line last spring on a wet day (was going to call it Brick Lane), but never got round to trying. Glad to see it go to a good home. It’s really rather good with a steady few moves at the start and then hard tenuous arete work with little for the left hand and a scary barndoor pop for an edge to finish.
Jamie got it on video so you can look forward to some stills, if you’re lucky ;). Iain didn’t sound sure on the grade but suggested 8a as a best guess.
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The mighty Farrar ripping it up, oh yeah!
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Why keep telling us about these videos that we will never see?!?! Stop teasing us! :'(
Good work on the send, sounds good......
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I think the vid / stills ref is a deliberate windup.
Sounds ace. Brick lane would have been a better name. Or the Perfect Angle.
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yes, i'm quite disappointed in iains lack of imagination this time. its a shit name, really shit
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You got access to the vid dense?
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Or at least L'angle Parfitt
(http://cdn.mos.musicradar.com/images/artist-news/status-quo/rick-parfitt-lick-library-460-100-460-70.jpg)
Looks like a good bit of rock from the phototopo in the guide.
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I think the vid / stills ref is a deliberate windup.
Really? ;)
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This looks about as badass a line as you're gonna get these days i recon. Awesome stuff from farrar monch. Any chance of finishing up adios amigos for an adrian berry style E10?
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Is it the left of the aretes in this photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=92968 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=92968)
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yep, that's the one beast. the youngster is on fire!
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You got access to the vid dense?
of course, i'm not a savage
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An excellent show there from a man so rake like and long. I convey my congratulations and swish my Farrar mane hair piece with great pride.
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can we break with tradition and petition him about the name? He could have gone 'l'angle plus que plus que parfait' if he was determined to name it all french.
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Repeated this today. Bit of a strange one - after an hour nobody had got anywhere climbing it on the left. Either we missed something crucial or its extremely morpho (Ryan is hardly short). Instead managed to do it more or less straight on, starting and finishing on the left. Unfortunately this is rather contrived as you can climb it on the right with the big shothole running down the right-hand side at about 6c+. Without it was fair bit harder, I thought perhaps 7a+/7b (similar to a big Angle Ben's), but the others thought harder. On the plus side the moves are very good and unlikely, but it is a total eliminate.
Here's nige with the moves:
(http://www.adamlong.co.uk/files/AL-millst-.jpg)
To get into the initial position you keep your left hand low, palming, and do a foot dyno. To top out you dyno your left foot up again then go out left to the seam, then right hand to top.
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So there's 3 potential ways of climbing it? Iain climbs it entirely on the left.
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classic peak spotting there.
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L'angle Imparfait
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Nice stills, any vid?
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I'll post up some sequence pics from the vid when i get a chance.
The way Iain did it involved getting two shit small edges quite far up and left then running feet up until RF is on pocket/pinchy bit of arete then bouleing for top edge with left.
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I'll post up some sequence pics from the vid when i get a chance.
The way Iain did it involved getting two shit small edges quite far up and left then running feet up until RF is on pocket/pinchy bit of arete then bouleing for top edge with left.
Is 'bouleing' a recognised term for a dynamic move with a high barndoor potential?
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running feet up until RF is on pocket/pinchy bit of arete then bouleing for top edge with left
Think I ended up in this same position, but it wasn't much of a boule tbh. Maybe being from the midget demographic does have some advantages...
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The boule in question.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5126/5341905641_25b01a7882_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5203/5341905645_9a32d2fb98_b.jpg)
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That doesn't look barn doory at all.
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just spoke to iain and he said he climbed it on the left since any other way you can escape into the huge drill hole, to miss this out really would be contrived
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I think we need some clear proof of the entire sequence....
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Yes, using some sort of motion based photography system. Should technology allow such a crazy concept to exist yet.
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just spoke to iain and he said he climbed it on the left since any other way you can escape into the huge drill hole, to miss this out really would be contrived
Had a chat with him last night over a couple in the norfolk arms, the furthest right hold is the same on both sequences. So either you contrive not to use any holds further right, or you contrive not to use the easiest sequence. Seeing a pattern? Its contrived. A shame, because the moves are great.
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just spoke to iain and he said he climbed it on the left since any other way you can escape into the huge drill hole, to miss this out really would be contrived
Had a chat with him last night over a couple in the norfolk arms, the furthest right hold is the same on both sequences. So either you contrive not to use any holds further right, or you contrive not to use the easiest sequence. Seeing a pattern? Its contrived. A shame, because the moves are great.
Is it not just the arete without the shot hole? That seems logical enough.
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Yeah, I suppose it is. Logically contrived.
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just spoke to iain and he said he climbed it on the left since any other way you can escape into the huge drill hole, to miss this out really would be contrived
Had a chat with him last night over a couple in the norfolk arms
Isn't that a bit rude? What did that couple say about it?
Iaiaiaian's way sounds least contrived to me. His way he wouldn't have the eliminated hold just to the side of him, he's have it way out of sight and presumably (crucially?) out of grabbing distance round the arete.
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Yeah. But in the Venn diagram of holds used my sequence sits entirely within his. His uses one hold extra for a harder sequence.
Its similar to Ben's Wall at RHS I guess. Either you can do it the normal way and avoid the arete, or you can do the harder left-hand rockover way for a less contrived sequence. Which does everyone do?
Maybe we need to stick a bonus tag on the crimp out left.
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I'm just going to mark it as 'Project' in the guide. Or call it Bohemian Grove.
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Unfortunately this is rather contrived as you can climb it on the right with the big shothole running down the right-hand side at about 6c+. Without it was fair bit harder, I thought perhaps 7a+/7b (similar to a big Angle Ben's), but the others thought harder. On the plus side the moves are very good and unlikely, but it is a total eliminate.
you can't reach the shothole climbing it the original way. your body is on the left the whole way. its an entirely seperate problem with no chance of escaping to easier territory.
its like getting rid of don and archangel and just getting the tick for going au cheval
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Unfortunately this is rather contrived as you can climb it on the right with the big shothole running down the right-hand side at about 6c+. Without it was fair bit harder, I thought perhaps 7a+/7b (similar to a big Angle Ben's), but the others thought harder. On the plus side the moves are very good and unlikely, but it is a total eliminate.
you can't reach the shothole climbing it the original way. your body is on the left the whole way. its an entirely seperate problem with no chance of escaping to easier territory.
its like getting rid of don and archangel and just getting the tick for going au cheval
to be fair to dense, for once it seems he does have a point?
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you can't reach the shothole climbing it the original way. your body is on the left the whole way. its an entirely seperate problem with no chance of escaping to easier territory.
I thought that was exacly what JB's sequence did - start on the left and used the same holds to swing right?
its like getting rid of don and archangel and just getting the tick for going au cheval
Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.
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My take on this line is that it is an eliminate, albeit a very logical and easy to describe one i.e. the arete sans shothole on the right. This being the case, Adam's solution is perfectly valid, and as it seems to be easier, then for me that should be the basis for grading it. I felt that Adam's way would be in the region of 7c.
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to be fair to dense, for once it seems he does have a point?
He might have a point worth hearing if a) I hadn't had a long discussion with Iain about it last night and b) he had the first clue what my sequence involved and c) he had done a single move on it to decide for himself where the holds naturally lead.
Edit: I see Nige has posted and, incredibly, ticks all those boxes too! Lets listen to Dense though.
Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.
And what would you know about that?
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I'm getting bored of this. This is write up for guide:
L’Angle Parfait 7c
The impressive, vertical square-cut arête around and left of Green Death is climbed predominantly on its left-hand side, avoiding the vertical shot hole around right. Steady moves at the start are followed by hard, tenuous arête work, before a scary barn door pop for an edge at 5m to finish. Iain Farrar
Last chance...
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Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.
And what would you know about that?
So it is the easiest sequence?
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Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.
And what would you know about that?
So it is the easiest sequence?
If you're a show pony perhaps?
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Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.
And what would you know about that?
So it is the easiest sequence?
So Don Whillans said.
Yeast Bums Dogs 7b+
The impressive, vertical square-cut arête around and left of Green Death gives a good 6c+ using the vertical shot hole on the right. Better and harder is to eliminate it with cryptic, tenuous arête work either direct or via an edge out left.
Iain Farrar
Quote from Iain 'I did think someone like you or Nige would be able to do it an easier way with some fancy smearing'.
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Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.
And what would you know about that?
So it is the easiest sequence?
So Don Whillans said.
I stand corrected.
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Sorted.
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tenuous arête work
Wow. Work! Is it just me, or is there something unaspirational about that phrase? It makes it sound like climbing the arete is er, work when it should be fun. Doesn't it? Maybe it is some modern bouldering terminology I haven't kept up with but it feels a bit odd. Not that I expect the guidebook rewritten to my exact spec or anything.
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Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.
And what would you know about that?
So it is the easiest sequence?
So Don Whillans said.
Yeast Bums Dogs 7b+
The impressive, vertical square-cut arête around and left of Green Death gives a good 6c+ using the vertical shot hole on the right. Better and harder is to eliminate it with cryptic, tenuous arête work either direct or via an edge out left.
Iain Farrar
Quote from Iain 'I did think someone like you or Nige would be able to do it an easier way with some fancy smearing'.
I'm sure his exact wording was "...someone like you or Nige with your silky footwork" An important distinction to make I feel.
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I was fairly tipsy by the time the exchange took place as I was the wrong side of two pints of Moonshine, but I'm pretty sure his exact phrasing was:
'...someone like you or Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's frightening how silky your footwork is!'
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I wasnt there but are you sure it wasnt
"I knew some twat would ruin it, my ways much better shame you couldn't do it"
?
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I was fairly tipsy by the time the exchange took place as I was the wrong side of two pints of Moonshine, but I'm pretty sure his exact phrasing was:
'...someone like you or Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's frightening how silky your footwork is!'
I was stone cold sober, and I believe Ian's word's were:
'...someone like you or Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's frightening how snazzy your footwork is!'
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tenuous arête work
Wow. Work! Is it just me, or is there something unaspirational about that phrase? It makes it sound like climbing the arete is er, work when it should be fun. Doesn't it? Maybe it is some modern bouldering terminology I haven't kept up with but it feels a bit odd. Not that I expect the guidebook rewritten to my exact spec or anything.
Right you are.
Yeast Bums Dogs 7b+
The impressive, vertical square-cut arête around and left of Green Death gives a good 6c+ using the vertical shot hole on the right. Better and harder is to eliminate it with a cryptic, tenuous mini-break at Centre-parcs, either direct or via an edge out left.
Iain Farrar
We should do everything by committee. The names would certainly improve.
I was stone cold sober, and I believe Ian's word's were:
'...someone like you or Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's frightening how snazzy your footwork is!'
According to the recording on my phone, Iain's exact words were:
'...someone like you or frightening Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's how snazzy your silky footwork is!'
though if I play it backwards, its more like 'yyyoooaaassstt boooaaaammmmsss hoooooonndds'
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mini-break at Centre-parcs,
I thought he said he wanted it to sound fun?
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The fishing is free and the kids are taken care of. What more do you want?
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An owl sanctuary.
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coming in spring 2011 apparently...
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Dragging this back to Archangel au cheval am I wrong in thinking that it was climbed like that by Don on top rope with tyre rubber strapped to his legs making it easier than a conventional layback up the left side. Clearly a point of aid. Tut tut.
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The toprope? I know, its a fucking disgrace.
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Longle Parfait got a couple more repeats today. Much to my dismay they didn't include me, so I think its fair to say I got lucky last time and the grade is around 7c.
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Who did it? Anyone do it on the left?
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Ned & BBGuns. I'm not sure the left way is likely to get much attention, its just the same holds but a worse sequence, and morpho.
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oh this is good, repeated by adam, ned, and bransby. yes i can see how you 1st thought 7a+/b. varian or adams next? maybe 7a
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I thought 7a+ because last time, once I had the idea on the sequence, I did it immediately. Having since seen the great and good struggle to emulate my feat I'll gracefully accept that both my vision and ability did exceed my estimation.
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tenuous arête work
Wow. Work! Is it just me, or is there something unaspirational about that phrase? It makes it sound like climbing the arete is er, work when it should be fun. Doesn't it? Maybe it is some modern bouldering terminology I haven't kept up with but it feels a bit odd. Not that I expect the guidebook rewritten to my exact spec or anything.
Right you are.
Yeast Bums Dogs 7b+
The impressive, vertical square-cut arête around and left of Green Death gives a good 6c+ using the vertical shot hole on the right. Better and harder is to eliminate it with a cryptic, tenuous mini-break at Centre-parcs, either direct or via an edge out left.
Iain Farrar
We should do everything by committee. The names would certainly improve.
I was stone cold sober, and I believe Ian's word's were:
'...someone like you or Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's frightening how snazzy your footwork is!'
According to the recording on my phone, Iain's exact words were:
'...someone like you or frightening Nige could have worked out an easier sequence because it's how snazzy your silky footwork ego is!'
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to be fair to dense, for once it seems he does have a point?
He might have a point worth hearing if a) I hadn't had a long discussion with Iain about it last night and b) he had the first clue what my sequence involved and c) he had done a single move on it to decide for himself where the holds naturally lead.
Edit: I see Nige has posted and, incredibly, ticks all those boxes too! Lets listen to Dense though.
Or it would be if climbing Archangel a cheval was the easiest sequence. But's not.
And what would you know about that?
thats weird because
a) starting the day after your little chat with iain i sat in a 20ft sq cold box with him for 2 days then drove to glasgow and back down for another job, ie we spent a lot of time in close proximity. i drew the line at anal sex but was ok using a rubber fist on him. he told me that your sequence had nothing to do with his climbing the arete and he originally tried like this however you could easily go to the shot hole so he didn't continue since he wanted to climb it on its left hand side. all people need to do is go to millstone, its quite obvious what to do
b) you told me your sequence and i'm quite confident in the ability of my ears
c) when everyone finished laughing cos i didn't trust my right foot on the first move for a few attempts i got to the second undercut jug with my right and came over with my left. not the crux i grant you but a few moves more than one. i left it since a)i knew i wouldn't do it and had no interest in going back and b) i really have no interest climbing on grit, sacrilige i know but not everyone likes the same things.
on 2 brief asides, what has where the holds naturally lead got to do with anything? its 2011, the description could be "climb the arete on its fucking left" its quite simple if you don't climb it on its left then you haven't climbed it on its left
the other aside i know nothing about don et al, what i do know is that climbing don is not climbing archangel is not climbing au cheval. again its quite simple
i do believe iains other words were does the show pony sit at home waiting for new probs to be done in the peak so he can go and immediately downgrade the ones he can do?
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i am off ill today.that made me lol.confident in the ability of my ears,fucking genius.i am still laughing whilst typing.thanks lee
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on 2 brief asides, what has where the holds naturally lead got to do with anything? its 2011, the description could be "climb the arete on its fucking left" its quite simple if you don't climb it on its left then you haven't climbed it on its left
Oh, for fuck's sake Lee, this is getting ridiculous. So you know what Iain did, but you don't know what we did?
IAIN DIDN'T CLIMB IT ENTIRELY ON THE LEFT. OH NO HE DIDN'T.
Both sequences pull on, then go to the big undercut well on the right - a few inches from the shothole in fact. For both sequences this is the furthest right hold on the problem. See Ryan's hand here -
(http://adamlong.co.uk/files/AL-millst-2408.jpg)
Is this 'entirely' on the left or not? Or is it 'a cheval'? At this point, and this may be a shock - Ryan could be on either sequence. From here BOTH sequences bring the right foot in to frog the arete. For BOTH sequences this enables hands to match on the arete, right hand above left. BOTH sequences then reach out to small crimps on the left wall, place right foot high - on the same hold, then go to top. The difference being mine uses left hand on the pinch Iain uses with his right. Big fucking difference. Clearly Iain's sequence is a shining paragon of logic and purity, whereas mine is a shitty cop-out.
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Sorry, can someone explain what's going on.
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Someone did something and then someone did the same thing but differently. Then someone else did it too.
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Someone did something and then someone did the same thing but differently. Then someone else did it too.
And.. someones got something on video of someone on something but someone wont let anyone see what someone videoed of someone on something.
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I've not done it. I've never even tried it. In fact, I've got a video of me never even trying it.
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i want to see the video of you not trying grimer, otherwise i simply won't believe you, unless of course you show someone we all trust and they tell me you're not trying it
as for the other i couldn't really care either way. just pointing a couple of things out that i was told, since iain doesn't look on net. as someone else said it's not that good a problem however you do it
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Only two pepole have seen the video. One is dead, the other has gone mad. What more can I say? Therefore I simply refuse to upload it. However, I do have a video of someone watching the video which clearly shows credulity on the part of the observer and I'll show you that.
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Only two pepole have seen the video. One is dead, the other has gone mad. What more can I say? Therefore I simply refuse to upload it. However, I do have a video of someone watching the video which clearly shows credulity on the part of the observer and I'll show you that.
(http://www.dreamyoga.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/Monkey-Watching-TV.jpg)
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I can't be bothered to read all the posts above, but why doesn't he just reach that nice looking runnel thing with his right hand?
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Because that would make it a damn good 6c+, and its 2011 and that's too easy to bother with.
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who belayed the person who we can watch watching the video?
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who belayed the person who we can watch watching the video?
(http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/07_02/SpectacledMonkeyR_468x477.jpg)
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You're always onto a winner with monkey pictures.
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Genius. This discussion is quite probably better than the problem / line / variations.
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Had an email from Young Iain. He tried to register and post, and failed, so he's asked me to post up for him, inc the vid:
ok yoots you've finally managed to draw me in to posting on the net.... here's what i have to say...
first and most importantly.... Dense did not fist me with his rubber fist... its true, we did share a room in the Glasgow Etap but my arse was the same size in the morning as it was when i went to sleep... so unless he used his rubber babby's fist or his lazy lamb and a handkerchief soaked in chloroform i think i'm safe...
second..... the whole point of the problem for me and the fellas i tried it with was to climb the arete on its left hand side, we toyed with getting the pinch how adam did (with the left hand) but it brings you round to the right and you then have to eliminate the shothole and the crack...climb it the other way and it doesn't feel at all eliminate and the moves are also excellent. As for the morpho thing.. jamie and dan both got to the second crimp out left from the same foothold as me and they are not tall.....
....and remember its bouldering, its for fun... go and climb both versions, they are both valid in their own way.
here's the video to show that i am actually on the left hand side....
http://vimeo.com/19119074 (http://vimeo.com/19119074)
Adam, we will have to agree to disagree about which version is the most worthwhile, but lets have no more defamatory comments or i'll have to come round and take your dignity with denses' rubber fist.........the big rough one..... :-o
peace and love,
iain.
Young Iain (http://vimeo.com/19119074)
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Had an email from Young Iain. He tried to register and post, and failed
Of course! :lol:
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Word Iain. Thanks for posting that video. Forget all the shite about pride vs. secrecy vs. internet vs. WHO REALLY GIVES A SHIT. It's just nice to see some cool climbing of a new problem -SCIENTIFIC FACT.
Looks like a good problem that way. Sounds like it would be a good problemn both ways.
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The only defamatory comments were about Dense sticking his oar in.
The problem with that vid is you can't see the massive jugs round to the right used for the start (see my photo on p3). When I turned up, having heard 'it was climbed entirely on the left' I was surprised to see them chalked. If you use them, then you are choosing not to use the shothole, no question. Check out Iain's position at 7-8 secs. If that's on the left then so was our version. We just did that with for half a move more - left foot a bit higher. As I've laboured above, you than swing left as per Iain, and do a similar last move. I've not trying to do down what Iain did here, its just clear to me that these are two sequences on the same eliminate. If anyone wants to climb the arete entirely on the left the challenge is still there.
The best problem here is the arete with the shothole. Then you only have to eliminate bridging up the 5c corner. 6c+ - dynamite. Get to it.
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The best problem here is the arete with the shothole. Then you only have to eliminate bridging up the 5c corner. 6c+ - dynamite. Get to it.
A couple of us did this today (with the shothole). JB is not wrong, it's a class problem this way for those who may not possess the necessary skills for the harder variants.
We may not have been using the best sequence but it felt at least 7a to us. Probably worth mentioning as well that you need a decent pad stack for the jump off the jug unless you fancy soloing the rest of an E2.
Definitely a good addition to the Millstone / Owler tour circuit.
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Vid of the shothole method, wicked problem this way. Sorry it took so long to upload it and link it.
L'angle Parfait (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FoWcJTqrjM&hd=1#)