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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: S Smith on January 02, 2011, 10:46:07 pm

Title: Glendalough 8b
Post by: S Smith on January 02, 2011, 10:46:07 pm

Seems Michael Duffy took advantage of the cold conditions to send the Big Squeeze project giving Wonderland 8b.

First of the grade in Ireland methinks, and an amazing line at that.

Bottom of the page:
http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php (http://www.theshortspan.com/newproblemdatabase/newproblemdatabase.php)

Absolute beast! :jaw:

Title: Re: Glendalough 8b
Post by: Doylo on January 02, 2011, 10:58:33 pm

Effort! Amazing to keep enough motivation to achieve this standard of bouldering living in Ireland.

Title: Re: Glendalough 8b
Post by: chillax on January 03, 2011, 01:02:15 am

Massive effort and an incredible line! This ones been a long time in the making and its the closest thing I've ever seen to "trad" bouldering. The logistics of attempting this line repeatedly are ridiculous!

Title: Re: Glendalough 8b
Post by: Sloper on January 03, 2011, 09:23:26 am

Is this the one way up on the right?  If so that's some effort if only the walk in.

Good skills.

Title: Re: Glendalough 8b
Post by: Andy Harris on January 06, 2011, 09:16:40 am

Having spotted Michael on this I can honestly say it is a 3* superb line on perfect rock. Very uncharacteristic of Irish granite it's a large roof (maybe 4-5m) with a hard sequence out on a RH flake followed by a crux slap of a perfect block pinch and feet compressing. Even a little airy as it's not low slung and has a spicy landing requiring good padage. Much more akin to something you'd find in Ticino and as good as anything I've seen there.

I know Michael fell off the easy top bit last year so he was very pleased to get it done recently. Project name was The Big Squeeze.

Title: Re: Glendalough 8b
Post by: dave k on January 06, 2011, 11:16:21 am

Wow- i had a look at this last summer. I have to agree it is an absolutely stunning piece if rock. The landing platform had been well sorted, but the top out would still be rather high. Really chuffed for Michael.

I definitely recommend a visit to the area for anyone. A visit should include atleast one visit to Glenmacnas, which is brilliant and even more isolated than Glenda. (But take your wellies!)

Title: Re: Glendalough 8b
Post by: DubDom on January 06, 2011, 12:12:55 pm

Fair Play Michael

Brilliant effort

Great to see Glendalough in the news, such a great place.

Title: Re: Glendalough 8b
Post by: Dave Flanagan on January 06, 2011, 12:25:25 pm

It was great to hear that Michael finally got it done. I was afraid that it was going to go into the guide as a project but Michael's timing was perfect...

Title: Re: Glendalough 8b
Post by: Fatboy on January 06, 2011, 12:29:14 pm

Brilliant, awesome effort Michael!!