UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: TobyD on January 02, 2011, 01:55:31 pm
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27th climb all day in thailand. got drunk.
28th rest. Actually did nothing all day.
29th - climb all day, ticked 7c. 7b+, tried 8a+: all moves but a bit wet. The route, not me. got drunk.
30th - climb all day, get drunk.
31st - climb all day, 7c 1st RP, OS 7b+, get drunk.
1st - climb off hangover, by almost onsight ing 7c at 9am. Climb all day. Hair of dog, or 3.
2nd - sit on boats / buses / planes. eat odd unidentifiable things on street in Kualar Lumpur (stomach training) and it was all going so well....
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STG - Manage to get on grit when a) dry, b) have free time...
MTG - Few more 7b's, consolidate / move onwards from 7B+ peak limestone
Mon - busy
Tues - Routes at Foundry.
Wed - Bouldering at Works.
Thurs - Routes at Foundry
Fri - Bouldering at Works
Sat -
Sun - Bouldering at Works
Disappointed not to get out on grit over christmas.
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mon - weights.
tue - rest, DOMS, hangover. shit.
wed - wall. 2 hours, good vibes, set and set 3 new problems.
thu - fingerboard. 5 different holds, 5 pull ups on each hold x 5 sets. painful can't wait to get back on my Beastmaker.
fri - bouldering at Amiata on old problems: 6a, 7a+, 7a, 7a+, 7b, 6c, 7b. good.
sat - one symbolic dead hang for the new year.
sun - one arm pull ups (frontal, no twisting), bicep curl superset.
not bad for a sh***y week.
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Thanks Toby. Happy New Year everyone.
Weight 11.6-9
M Eve. Jimi Hendrix tribute band gig in Derby. Drank a lot.
T Hangover
W.Panto with Poppy at City Hall. Eve. Foundry 5 x 10 easy problems
T. Realised I had cocked up training schedule. Eve. Foundry. 30 problems or attempts 10 easy, 10 medium 10 hard.
F. AM. Foundry. 3x4 14move problem on 40 deg board. New year in Leicester.
S. Picked up a bug - slept badly - shivered a lot.
S. Felt awful. Got dosed up. Felt a bit better. Eve Foundry 30 problems or attempts 10 easy, 10 medium 10 hard. Struggled
Fucked up week. Got the Programme mixed up and didnt realise till Thurs that it was meant to be a Power/PE week. Doh. Will do another PE session tomorrow and then 2 fingerboard sessions along with 4 stamina types sessions during the week to catch up. Weight has been up down and up again. Still have this bug and feel like shit. Hopefully feel better in the morning.
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STG- E1 and 6C on grit this season
MTG (2011)- E2, 7A, 7a
LTG- onsighting long E4+ routes by end 2013
M- Nothing
T- Nothing
W- Indoor bouldering. Climbing surprisingly well after Christmas break. Feel 100% fit.
T- Nothing
F- Indoor bouldering. Ticked all my 'projects' on the current circuits. Nice end to the year!
S- Nothing
S- Cratcliffe/ RHS bouldering. Largely spent working things I didn't tick, but good technique building. Felt nice to easily do problems I couldn't manage on my last visit (18 months ago).
Hopefully getting on a rope indoor again this week. Pumped just thinking about it!
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M-S zippety zip. A new year weigh-in topped out at an all time high of 9 1/2 stone, promised myself I'd stop eating and drinking tomorrow.
Sun - avoided recording a blank by getting a couple of hours at Eaglestone, plan was to quickly tick off ...Landed then move on to A Few Beagles More but instead I spent a frustrating time just missing or not holding the top of ...Landed and ended up trashing my newly repaired skin all over again. Will I ever learn?
Hey ho, kids back to nursery and life to normal this week so should have more opportunities to mess myself up.
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Tuesday: freezing in works, tried to warm up and then hit the reds for about an hour.
Wednesday: theraband bits (I do something at least once a day at the moment)
Thursday: routes down the foundry! First time I've been on a rope for about 2 years maybe, really enjoyed it but my god, I'm really unfit!
Friday: works
Sat: short walk in rivelin. Lots of theraband and 3x30 wide press ups.
Sun: go into peak expecting great conditions, don't find them. Back to works to work on the remaining reds.
Injection has worked wonders so far, first time in many months I've been able to train anywhere near this hard, feels great :) two weeks ahead hopefully filled with lots more climbing before heading off to the sun for a week.
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STGs: Chip Shop Brawl / Tierdrop / Sole Power. 1-4-7
MTGs: Sport 8a
M: Nada
T: Works session. Getting oh so close to 1-4-7 on the big rungs. Then do about 30 problems on the red circuit
W: Nada
T: Works session. Hit 1-4-7 with right hand leading, still a little bit short left hand leading. Then do about 30 circuit problems.
F: Garage session. Feeling strong and complete a couple of projects I've had on the go.
S: Nada
S: Went to higgar hoping to bag shit. Epic fail. Tried flying arete, got to the stage where I can regularly hit the top hold but can't stick it. Annoying. Go and have a look at the terrace and manage all but the first move. Hoping to get this done before the season's over. Wander over to stanage to meet friends and manage to tick Zippy's traverse and adults only.
Sightly disappointing start to the new year. Feeling strong indoors but it doesn't seem to be translating to the crag. Also got a bit carried away yesterday and now have holes in my skin.
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STG get over shoulder niggle.
M - Nothing
T - Shoulder stability stuff
W - Arch - very brief warm-up / rehab. type session
T - Shoulder stability stuff
F - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Shoulder stability stuff
S - Arch - very brief rehab. type climbing
Weight stable ie too high; shoulder settling. Carry on.
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M
T
W
T all Nothing...
F. kendal Wall
S
Sun Curbar. average/damp conditions average/weak capability..
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M: Rest
T: Morning run 30min Evening: Fartlek(endurance climbing for 60 min continuous. 3 boulder problems every 4th minute)
W: Morning run 30min Evening: Fartlek(endurance climbing for 60 min continuous. 3 boulder problems every 4th minute)
T: Morning run 30min Evening: Fartlek(endurance climbing for 60 min continuous. 3 boulder problems every 4th minute)
F: Running 75min(new year)
L: Rest
S: Morning run 30min Evening: Power endurance(23x3x4, 1” rep, 3” set + 40x4, 4”)
Mikael
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Mon.drive to warrington to visit mum.wine
Tue.deadhanging,weights and 50 mins on turbo.
Wed.1 hr 20 mins on turbo.friends house for dinner,lots of wine.
Thu.feel rough,drag myself to rockcity for first climb since i crocked my knee 3 weeks ago.went ok.
Fri.weights.wine.
Sat.out on my bike for 2 hrs 30 mins.first time in weeks a bit spicy at times due to frozen slush.deadhanging early evening.wine
Sun.rockcity.did all problems i'd done on thurs first go,also did the 3 i didn't do on thurs.not going too bad for a fat lad.wine.
good weeks training somewhat offset by the amount of food and booze i've consumed.
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STG: Rest between aerobic/mileage and strength phases of Winter Training Plan
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
A stomach bug brings about an early start to the planned Midwinter Rest Week, turning it into two rest weeks and thereby probably doing no harm at all.
M: Resting
T: Puking
W: Puking
T: Recovering. Weigh-in at 79.7 kg: first time under 80kg for ages, probably since Fatherhood.
F: Collect wife's cousin from airport
S. Fly to UK to visit parents. Start of Planned Rest Week.
S: Pull-ups, dips, (tucked) front levers in playground in park
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STG - Sort out some goals.
MTG - Hit those goals.
M - C2 Rower: 45 mins interval training + 10 mins warmup and 10 mins warm down. (10k/750 Cals)
T - Nowt.
W - Muddy run around/over Eccles Pike (45 mins) then: Kettlebell Circuit (15 mins on) then: KB Deadlift and Deadhang combo of 15 50kg deadlifts then 30 sec hang on BM big slots: 5 rounds no rest.
T - Walked dogs, felt lousy in the afternoon and had a sleep.
S - Hungover and DOMS from Thursday
S - Long dog walk then 2 hours on roadbike - hills around Chinley - got a bit cold on the descents and felt it during the night.
Not a bad week considering we had visitors virtually throughout. Climbed at Froggat today and felt pretty good once I got moving considering I've not climbed since exactly a month ago apart from a handful of routes the Sunday before Christmas.
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2011 Goals: 7a onsight in the UK, 7b+ redpoint
M: Workout at home - whole bunch of sit ups, press ups, pull ups, curls etc.
T:
W: Ingleton circuits session. Good session - slowed down the circuits by counting to 3 on each hold (thanks Simon) for a much higher intensity - just about fought through a circuit at the end of the session.
T: 6 Hour winter plod in the Lake District
F: Ingleton circuits. As for Wednesday but warmed up on some routes (up to 6c onsight) first.
S: Recovered from NYE...
S: 4 Hour winter plod in the Lakes
On a side note injured finger is still just as swollen as before. Starting to wonder if it will ever return to normal!
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Goals: as always.
M: Yoga and stretching.
T: Yoga and stretching. 5 mile walk and a pint.
W: Yoga and stretching
T: Bouldering @ The Works - Power on woodie (still shit), 20 or so purple spot problems, PE session on board (1 x 6c, 1 x 7b - fail, 1 x 7a+ - 1 dab, 1 x 6c) - Tired.
F: Cook food and buy booze... Consume!
S: Continue to consume above.
S: Soloing @ Burbage N - Really cold on rock but did about 10 routes up to HVS before retiring for hot lunch and tea - nice to be out!
Not bad considering NYE and my birthday were in this week... Pussying around stops now tho!
:D
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STG: Climb 7A by end of March
M
T Bouldering I/D. Crimpy Slightly OH Problems up to but not including (damnit) 6c.
W Long walk in snow
T Bouldering I/D. Crimpy Slightly OH Problems up to but not including 6c.
F Long walk in snow
S Bouldering O/D. Pfa. Lots of walking around trying to find boulders. Not sure on grades of problems. Maybe 5 problems to 6B.
S
M Bouldering O/D. Alg. Nice day out. Went with a plan to try climb two 7A's i've worked on. Met some heads and got deviated to other problems. Nice 6B. Tried a 7A and a 7B and got rightly shut down. I've still more work to do to reach goal. If trying counts I done well!
The body is sore today.
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Last 2 weeks as I only had access to a dial-up connection in Scotland
M: travel to Highlands
T: 10m icy road run
W: 4m snowy trail run
T: 5m walk in deep snow and one pitch of some esoteric winter stuff
F: 10m run
S: eat & rest
S: 3m walk, press-ups & 10m road run
M: 4m trail run & press-ups
T-Thurs: Headed down to glasgow to catch up with some old uni mates, lots of booze consumed, walked from pub to pub, bus back to inverness
F: 4m trail run
S: 4m trail run, pull-ups & core
S: 6hrs walk and an easy gully in cairngorms
Haven't climbed much but have managed to avoid gaining any weight over the xmas break which is an achievement I didn't expect! Will sort out new/ongoing aims next week.