UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Fiend on October 14, 2010, 02:16:13 pm
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No srsly.
I have stupidly sweaty hands which is an annoying handicap to my climbing 98.9% of the time. 1% of the time it helps because my paws are hot enough to climb even when it's too baltic for anyone else.
And.....0.1% of the time it seems to help because it seems very slightly damp hands grip better on the wood of a Beastmaker than dry lightly chalked ones.... :-\ :devangel:
Is this allowed?? Do the hangs etc have to be completed with normal dry hands, or is it okay to let them sweat (or even wet them) to increase grip on the wood??
Yours confusedly,
Fiend
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you are only cheating yourself.
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Is this a real question?
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Erm basically what Webbo said: you are only measuring your own gains (or lack thereof) when fingerboarding so it really doesn't matter if you attached 5000 l helium balloons to yourself whilst hanging, as long as you do the same every time so you have a valid comparison...
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Is this a real question?
Only if this is a real answer?
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I have annoyingly dry hands and expect that no amount of training will ever result in me being able to hold the 45s. There is no where near enough friction.
If I were you I'd chalk this one up as a win for you and your moist hands.
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Ok, a more sensible reply. If I had 3 hands, I'd take the tick. If you could tick a fingerboard. Which you can't. Unless you're Nibs.
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You make me wish I had 3 (http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/8090/three20tit20babe.jpg) hands.
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I have annoyingly dry hands and expect that no amount of training will ever result in me being able to hold the 45s. There is no where near enough friction.
Spit works a treat
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it really doesn't matter if you attached 5000 l helium balloons to yourself
Funny you should mention that - I have 1/2 tank of Helium left over from balloon duty at MrsTT's birthday the other week*, and I was wondering how many balloons I would need to get me that extra 2-4cm I need for Deliverance ;D then I started wondering whether or not they would get in the way - or impinge upon the aerodynamics etc.. as well as where I would attach them. God I hate my brain sometimes ;D
*its still 1/2 full as theres only so much fun you can have with helium inhaling...
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it really doesn't matter if you attached 5000 l helium balloons to yourself
Funny you should mention that - I have 1/2 tank of Helium left over from balloon duty at MrsTT's birthday the other week*, and I was wondering how many balloons I would need to get me that extra 2-4cm I need for Deliverance ;D then I started wondering whether or not they would get in the way - or impinge upon the aerodynamics etc.. as well as where I would attach them. God I hate my brain sometimes ;D
*its still 1/2 full as theres only so much fun you can have with helium inhaling...
Fill up one large balloon with all of the helium and have it attached to a harness via a 30m long bungee cord.
The balloon would be well out of your way and the stretch in the bungee should take up the slack :thumbsup:
This would have the added benefit of making any photo /film footage look like you are top-roping (maybe use a 3m long bungee instead) :)
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Good skills! ;D
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The buoyancy of helium is apparently about 1 gram per litre, so you'd need to work out how many kilos you need to remove to get the extra lift, for each kilo you need 1 m cubed of helium (obviously having to take into account the weight of the balloons).
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I'm amazed you were Conscientious enough to ask this question in the first place, consider all of your ascents confirmed :wave:
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Well I'm about 78kg, and very close, so2-3 kg should do the job :) 3 cubic meters is probably a c.1.8-2m diameter balloon... Might not have enough helium! :-/
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Depends if it's the soft-as-shite one at the Glasgow climbing wall? 45's are more like 40s there!
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it really doesn't matter if you attached 5000 l helium balloons to yourself
Funny you should mention that - I have 1/2 tank of Helium left over from balloon duty at MrsTT's birthday the other week*, and I was wondering how many balloons I would need to get me that extra 2-4cm I need for Deliverance ;D then I started wondering whether or not they would get in the way - or impinge upon the aerodynamics etc.. as well as where I would attach them. God I hate my brain sometimes ;D
*its still 1/2 full as theres only so much fun you can have with helium inhaling...
Fill up one large balloon with all of the helium and have it attached to a harness via a 30m long bungee cord.
The balloon would be well out of your way and the stretch in the bungee should take up the slack :thumbsup:
This would have the added benefit of making any photo /film footage look like you are top-roping (maybe use a 3m long bungee instead) :)
I can only see 'one' potential problem with this plan. As you dyno for the top of deliverance, you are accelerating upwards. So the helium balloons will only help if they accelerate at least as fast as you. Otherwise the sting/rope/bungee will just go slack and you won't be helped. But that is the only problem i see. ;)
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it really doesn't matter if you attached 5000 l helium balloons to yourself
Funny you should mention that - I have 1/2 tank of Helium left over from balloon duty at MrsTT's birthday the other week*, and I was wondering how many balloons I would need to get me that extra 2-4cm I need for Deliverance ;D then I started wondering whether or not they would get in the way - or impinge upon the aerodynamics etc.. as well as where I would attach them. God I hate my brain sometimes ;D
*its still 1/2 full as theres only so much fun you can have with helium inhaling...
Fill up one large balloon with all of the helium and have it attached to a harness via a 30m long bungee cord.
The balloon would be well out of your way and the stretch in the bungee should take up the slack :thumbsup:
This would have the added benefit of making any photo /film footage look like you are top-roping (maybe use a 3m long bungee instead) :)
I can only see 'one' potential problem with this plan. As you dyno for the top of deliverance, you are accelerating upwards. So the helium balloons will only help if they accelerate at least as fast as you. Otherwise the sting/rope/bungee will just go slack and you won't be helped. But that is the only problem i see. ;)
You're right but I think thats where the Bungee cord is a stroke of genius - as it will make the lift usable... Probably better if its thin elasitc mind, so it gives you a steady pull... This sounds like the sort of idiotic idea for brainiac or something.... ;D
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You're right but I think thats where the Bungee cord is a stroke of genius - as it will make the lift usable... Probably better if its thin elasitc mind, so it gives you a steady pull... This sounds like the sort of idiotic idea for brainiac or something.... ;D
True fact. A bungee is the best way forward.
(http://www.cargorack.co.uk/images/bungeecords.jpg)
Maybe this lass can help you?
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probably a c.1.8-2m diameter balloon...
Weather balloon would be fine for that. Apparently they stretch to the size of a double decker bus before they burst.
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Ok, a more sensible reply. If I had 3 hands, I'd take the tick. If you could tick a fingerboard. Which you can't. Unless you're Nibs.
;D
I am so close to getting an 8a.nu account just for the beastmaker training...
so close...
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Jens won't be too happy. He certainly wasn't happy about board problems going on there ;D
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it really doesn't matter if you attached 5000 l helium balloons to yourself
Funny you should mention that - I have 1/2 tank of Helium left over from balloon duty at MrsTT's birthday the other week*, and I was wondering how many balloons I would need to get me that extra 2-4cm I need for Deliverance ;D then I started wondering whether or not they would get in the way - or impinge upon the aerodynamics etc.. as well as where I would attach them. God I hate my brain sometimes ;D
*its still 1/2 full as theres only so much fun you can have with helium inhaling...
Fill up one large balloon with all of the helium and have it attached to a harness via a 30m long bungee cord.
The balloon would be well out of your way and the stretch in the bungee should take up the slack :thumbsup:
This would have the added benefit of making any photo /film footage look like you are top-roping (maybe use a 3m long bungee instead) :)
I can only see 'one' potential problem with this plan. As you dyno for the top of deliverance, you are accelerating upwards. So the helium balloons will only help if they accelerate at least as fast as you. Otherwise the sting/rope/bungee will just go slack and you won't be helped. But that is the only problem i see. ;)
You're right but I think thats where the Bungee cord is a stroke of genius - as it will make the lift usable... Probably better if its thin elasitc mind, so it gives you a steady pull... This sounds like the sort of idiotic idea for brainiac or something.... ;D
you'd be better sticking the ballon up your ass,then inflating it. :whistle:
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Jens won't be too happy. He certainly wasn't happy about board problems going on there ;D
Just use E-grades Nibs, Jens won't have a clue what you're on about.
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Jens won't be too happy. He certainly wasn't happy about board problems going on there ;D
that was just the reason I was looking for...
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Depends if it's the soft-as-shite one at the Glasgow climbing wall? 45's are more like 40s there!
That'll be the one. I'm not in the habit of travelling to different cities to hang on bits of wood.
Why is it soft then? Sanded down? Wrong angle?
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Depends if it's the soft-as-shite one at the Glasgow climbing wall? 45's are more like 40s there!
That'll be the one. I'm not in the habit of travelling to different cities to hang on bits of wood.
Why is it soft then? Sanded down? Wrong angle?
The 45's are more like 40's (or so I hear ;))
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(http://cdn.pastemagazine.com/www/articles/2010/06/22/vinyl_main.jpg?1277205191)>>>>(http://www.drinkhacker.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/jack-daniels-single-barrel-whiskey.jpg)
??
How very Gangsta.
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Depends if it's the soft-as-shite one at the Glasgow climbing wall? 45's are more like 40s there!
That'll be the one. I'm not in the habit of travelling to different cities to hang on bits of wood.
Why is it soft then? Sanded down? Wrong angle?
Haha, right, it might not be "soft" in the grand scheme of things, but it's certainly harder than Jonny's one in my flat.
35s: in the flat - 2 hand repeaters (can't hang 1 handed); At the wall - 1 arm locks.
45s: in the flat - can't hang them without cheating; At the wall, 7 secs hang.
Haven't tried any other beastmakers, so all I can say for sure is "ours is harder". The reason I feel that makes the Glasgow soft is the fact I'm surprised I can hang the 45s at all!
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Depends if it's the soft-as-shite one at the Glasgow climbing wall? 45's are more like 40s there!
That'll be the one. I'm not in the habit of travelling to different cities to hang on bits of wood.
Why is it soft then? Sanded down? Wrong angle?
Haha, right, it might not be "soft" in the grand scheme of things, but it's certainly harder than Jonny's one in my flat.
35s: in the flat - 2 hand repeaters (can't hang 1 handed); At the wall - 1 arm locks.
45s: in the flat - can't hang them without cheating; At the wall, 7 secs hang.
Haven't tried any other beastmakers, so all I can say for sure is "ours is harder". The reason I feel that makes the Glasgow soft is the fact I'm surprised I can hang the 45s at all!
Isn't it the chip-fat that permeates the air up in the training room that adds to the friction at the glasgow wall :)