UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: douglas on October 08, 2010, 03:37:39 pm
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What are typically considered the best 7c's in the UK?
Just that I'm keen to try them (and see if they're better than Return of the Gunfighter).
Cheers.
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In Yarkshire you're looking at Dominatrix and Biological Need (Kilnsey), New Dawn, Tremelo and Serious Young Toads (under-rated IMHO) at Malham. Not done loads in the Peak, but The Squealer at LorryPark Quarry was memorable. Phantom Zone and Super Duper Dupont at Chapel Head Scar are worth the drive and won't dissappoint.
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Cry of Despair at the Cheedale Cornice is fricking awesome!
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In the Peak then Body Machine, The Prow, Arch Enemies & Cry of Despair spring to mind. There's plenty of other good ones like Cordless Madness and The Boltest, Toys for the Boys, Celebration etc but they're not exactly up there with the best in the UK (or Yorkshire)
As for The Squealer, the climbing's ok for a quarry, but its pretty snappy and dirty and certainly in a different league to Dominatrix etc...
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Mark of the Beast - Lulworth
New Dawn - Malham
Dominatrix - Kilnsey
I've Been a Bad Bad Boy - LPT
The Boltest - Long Tor Quarry (controversial choice for the Peak but not much competetion, Cry of Despair probably the next best, Arch Enemies would be top but these days it is considered 7c+)
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In the Peak then Body Machine, The Prow, Arch Enemies & Cry of Despair spring to mind. There's plenty of other good ones like Cordless Madness and The Boltest, Toys for the Boys, Celebration etc but they're not exactly up there with the best in the UK (or Yorkshire)
As for The Squealer, the climbing's ok for a quarry, but its pretty snappy and dirty and certainly in a different league to Dominatrix etc...
Most of those aren't 7c.
Body Machine is 7c+, the Prow is usually done as one pitch at 7c+ (the 7c pitch on it's own is fairly mediocre, probably the worst pitch on the route), Arch Enemies most think this is 7c+, Cordless is 7b+ (though could well deserve 7c), Toys for the Boys is 7c+. I agree the Squealer is good but no way up there with the best 7cs in the country.
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The single best 7c that I've done anywhere is Pierrpoint at Goredale with the Last Dog start and the Right hand finish - sounds contrived, but it isn't; it makes the route more evenly sustained and reduces the grade from a gnarly 7c+ to low in the grade 7c.
In addition to the other routes mentioned previously I'd Free And Easy at Malham - awesome position and exposure.
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Wild In Me
Only Joking
not really
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fossil wall, eat the rich, too old to be bold....
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Now you're talking! Although Fossil Wall's a bit of a stamina plod really.
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Doug, I can tell you the answer right now! All the 7Cs in Yorkshire are better than return of the gunfighter (I know difficult to believe!). All the other 7Cs mentioned in the thread are about the same (except the squealer, what is that doing in the thread?). Simples!
Hope the ankle is on the mend
Duncan
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Another vote for The Boltest from me.
Another fantastic south peak route is Wil E Coyote. It's a one of the best 7c's I've done, over the road from The Boltest and slightly easier IMHO. (not 7c+)
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another vote here for too old to be bold at water cum jolly. Basically a boulder problem ;D
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Bad Boy of course! Boat People is good too but probably outside the top 5
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I can't believe the Ashes hasn't been mentioned yet!
Its got to be at Kilnsey, it has so much quality at this grade. The Ashes, Comedy, Biological, Dominatrix.
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Isn't Ashes 7c+ you dick?
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:whistle:
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
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I can't believe the Ashes hasn't been mentioned yet!
Its got to be at Kilnsey, it has so much quality at this grade. The Ashes, Comedy, Biological, Dominatrix.
Comedy isn't really 7c, nevermind one of the best at the grade. 7b+ and 2* compared to Dominatrix or New Dawn.
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Agree that Free and Easy is worth considering, obviously incredible position but I thought the climbing was excellent as well, on good rock that is less sharp than some of the other routes upstairs. For me just as good, if not better that New Dawn, can't understand why it used to be given 2 stars. Wouldn't want to join the serial downgraders club but I didn't really find Mescalito any harder than New Dawn and it's arguably better.
At Kilnsey imo most of the 7c's lack that something really special to make the very top, maybe Dominatrix though even on that I thought that the actual climbing wasn't up to the position and line. Certainly the Ashes is better than any of the 7c's.
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Comedy isn't really 7c, nevermind one of the best at the grade. 7b+ and 2* compared to Dominatrix or New Dawn.
:-\ Comedy resides firmly in the 7c camp and pretty classic. Dem grades godda start and finish somewhere dontcha-know! Whats with the sudden shift from upgrading to down grading Andy ;D
Extreme Ways at Dinbren is well worth a mention at soft 7c.
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Wouldn't want to join the serial downgraders club but I didn't really find Mescalito any harder than New Dawn and it's arguably better.
Agree about the quality - what a stunning route - but I'm not having the down grade (that might be because I did it as my first F7c+ ;))
Just to throw a different flavour into the pot - how about Chummer's Wish You Were Here at the top of Australia in the Dinorwig slate quarries. That is truly incredible (but also probably more like F7c+).
http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=192 (http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=192)
http://slate.wetpaint.com/page/THE+FAR+AWAY+TOP+LEVEL (http://slate.wetpaint.com/page/THE+FAR+AWAY+TOP+LEVEL)
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Comedy is definitely not 7b+ :lol:
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IMO Mescalito is spoiled by the ridiculously contrived finish. Why on earth is does that weird little traverse left at the top roof leaving you in a really awkard position to clip the belay i'll never know (though i'd goes it's historical artifact, maybe it shared a belay with an existing route).
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IMO Mescalito is spoiled by the ridiculously contrived finish. Why on earth is does that weird little traverse left at the top roof leaving you in a really awkard position to clip the belay i'll never know
It didn't spoil it for me since it was an easy decision from the first time on it that I was going to grab the belay chain :whistle:. I guess that I'll be sent to coventry by the ethics committee but as you say it is in a ridiculous position.
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Comedy isn't really 7c,
I think you might have done Comedy a few to many times to be objective Andy ;)
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I've done Bad Boy a fair few times but still know what grade it is! ;)
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IMO Mescalito is spoiled by the ridiculously contrived finish. Why on earth is does that weird little traverse left at the top roof leaving you in a really awkard position to clip the belay i'll never know
It didn't spoil it for me since it was an easy decision from the first time on it that I was going to grab the belay chain :whistle:. I guess that I'll be sent to coventry by the ethics committee but as you say it is in a ridiculous position.
So that's why you thought it was only F7c! Go straight to jail, do not pass go... ;D
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Comedy isn't really 7c,
I think you might have done Comedy a few to many times to be objective Andy ;)
Comedy really isn't that hard. One slappy move followed by steep jug pulling doen't make a 7c. To be honest, I'd happily take 7b for it... :whistle:
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Another confession from a Mescalito chain grabber here. :spank: Guilty as charged! And Frankenstein an all. Phew, glad to get those off my chest after all these years of guilt.
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Another confession from a Mescalito chain grabber here. :spank: Guilty as charged! And Frankenstein an all. Phew, glad to get those off my chest after all these years of guilt.
It was so long ago I can't remember what I did at the chain - might have to go into regression therapy to unearth that part of my memory. For now though I'll stick to the non-chain grabbing story (even though I definitely recall jumping for a hanging tape belay on China Crisis around the same time).
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Where does it say in the rules that you can't grab the chain then ?
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I think it's under 'Chapter 5: Anchors and Lower Offs'. Just after the 'Pre-clipped draws; how many is too many?' section.
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Used to be a matter of legpulling. Now it seems a more serious topic with a faction adamant that it disqualifies an ascent (other than Raindogs). For sure its not good style to grab the chain but to say or imply it entirely disqualifies an ascent pisses me off.
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Did you clip the belay at the top of Overnite :-\ ;)
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Nope. No intention to either.
As to the best 7c's that'll be Mark of the Beast and New Dawn IMO.
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For me.
Dominatrix.
Hall Of Mirrors (The Cuttings)
Free And Easy (If not just for the position!)
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Nope. No intention to either.
Don't let the crag police (a.k.a. Serpico) know, otherwise :spank:
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For sure its not good style to grab the chain but to say or imply it entirely disqualifies an ascent pisses me off.
What about routes where a few more moves are required to clip the chain off a jug? Is it fair for some to climb and often fall off after the point where others have dynoed for their quickdraw? I can think of a few routes like this.
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For sure its not good style to grab the chain but to say or imply it entirely disqualifies an ascent pisses me off.
What about routes where a few more moves are required to clip the chain off a jug? Is it fair for some to climb and often fall off after the point where others have dynoed for their quickdraw? I can think of a few routes like this.
Because somebody has made a decision to try it in better style (with increased risk of failure) but failed doesn't mean that somebody's succesful ascent in worse style is invalid. I understand the implication that the failed non-grabbing style attempt is an equivalent performance to the successful grabbing attempt on a route like Unjustified - that being the route you are alluding to. You could also argue that you have climbed a certain grade even if you have only climbed part way up a route and fallen off. To me (I accept that others don't hold this view) belays that are hard to clip are fair game for grabbing. If someone else chooses to make it hard for themselves by doing or attempting a route in better style thats their choice. But I don't accept it is their prerogative/entitlement to invalidate or discredit another persons ascent completed in poorer style on the grounds that is 'not fair'. I can split this thread if you like as it has gone off-topic but its all been said before here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=411404&v=1#x5870281)
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Whats with the sudden shift from upgrading to down grading Andy ;D
A bit of judicious downgrading every now and then adds credibility to your upgrades, don't worry I'm sure normal service will be resumed shortly.
Anyway you can't downgrade Comedy - it'd be a huge insult to the first ascentionist.....
7a+ it is then.
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Newdawn. Dominatrix. Boilogical Need.
Berlin at Ceuse, not in the UK but I wish it was...
I think I grabed the chain on everything I did before 1997. Does this mean I can do them all again? should keep me busy for year or two.
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Berlin dismays me at the 7c grade, must be the worlds hardest....
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I can split this thread if you like as it has gone off-topic
Sorry - my fault. It was a genuine question though
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i didn't grab the chain on comedy. :whistle:does that mean i can still have 7c for it.
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i didn't grab the chain on comedy. :whistle:does that mean i can still have 7c 7a for it.
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The Boltest might be the best 8c in the country. It's somewhere between "several" and "a billion" grades harder than The Squealer.
North of the border....
Marlena - everyone likes it although it is a bit grim.
Omerta - not tried it but a better line than any sport route in England.
Sufferance - waaaaaaaaay easier than The Boltest, superb climbing.
There's also meant to be some classics at The Anvil, The Camel, and Goat Crag, although I've forgotten the names.
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Berlin dismays me at the 7c grade, must be the worlds hardest....
That depends on which edition of the guide book you have.
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North of the border....
Marlena - everyone likes it although it is a bit grim.
Grim? Really? How can you say that after doing sport at Dumby :-\
I don't think it's a best in the uk though.
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Comedy really isn't that hard. One slappy move followed by steep jug pulling doen't make a 7c. To be honest, I'd happily take 7b for it... :whistle:
Which move couldn't you lock Andy? It was all pretty static for me... :whistle:
The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag is an often overlooked gem (Chee Dale, Two Tier Upper). Great climbing in a great position. Given 7b+ in the guide but defo more like bottom-end 7c.
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There's also meant to be some classics at The Anvil, The Camel, and Goat Crag, although I've forgotten the names.
The Goat Crag one is 'Prow Lefthand', The Camel one is 'Death is a Gift' but is 7c+.
Dunno about the Anvil, not been yet.
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Marlena - everyone likes it although it is a bit grim.
Omerta - not tried it but a better line than any sport route in England.
Sufferance - waaaaaaaaay easier than The Boltest, superb climbing.
There's also meant to be some classics at The Anvil, The Camel, and Goat Crag, although I've forgotten the names
Omerta looks the part, but slightly incongruent with the really hard start to a hands off ledge. Above that, it's got to be one of the best 7bs in the country.
Sufference is 7c+... or 8a...
The Anvil has a 7c on the right of the roof which is really good: steep, pumpy, athletic. Not a contender in comparison to New Dawn or anything though.
By the way, if Comedy gets downgraded all the routes at dumbuck will need a regrade... I keep getting shut down in grade debates about the (soft) 7c routes at dumbuck as they are "just as hard as Comedy and similar style"
Goat prow left hand is awesome, but sort of a cop out in comparison to the true 7c+ finish.
A personal favourite Black Socks at Am fasagh (near goat crag), which was 7c when I did it!
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I haven't done it but as a few Scottish routes have been mentioned I was wondering whether The Railway Children would be a contender?
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Comedy really isn't that hard. One slappy move followed by steep jug pulling doen't make a 7c. To be honest, I'd happily take 7b for it... :whistle:
Which move couldn't you lock Andy? It was all pretty static for me... :whistle:
Being quite short I have to move my RH quickly to the finger jug on the crux. My feet, of course, stay firmly planted on the footholds. So it's slappy in a 'move quickly' sort of way... ;) :whistle:
A nice warm-up for some of the harder challenges at the crag.
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Oh. It has a 'crux'? :-\
Only joking, I was pretty pleased to tick it. BTW they actually have a word for that in France: 'un conduit', where you move your arm really fast but everything else stays locked.
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Oh. It has a 'crux'? :-\
Only joking, I was pretty pleased to tick it. BTW they actually have a word for that in France: 'un conduit', where you move your arm really fast but everything else stays locked.
What's the French for when you move your arm really fast and everything else starts rapidly falling towards the ground? Une Farnell?
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Oh. It has a 'crux'? :-\
Only joking, I was pretty pleased to tick it. BTW they actually have a word for that in France: 'un conduit', where you move your arm really fast but everything else stays locked.
What's the French for when you move your arm really fast and everything else starts rapidly falling towards the ground? Une Farnell?
What's French for 'moaning about everyone overgrading and trying to downgrade everything else because I've officially reached grumpy old man status, bah humbug'? Une Serpico?
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What's French for 'moaning about everyone overgrading and trying to downgrade everything else because I've officially reached grumpy old man status, bah humbug'? Une Serpico?
I'm not trying to 'downgrade everything else' just trying to stem the tide of upgrades of routes which have had their grades unchallenged for decades.
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What's French for 'moaning about everyone overgrading and trying to downgrade everything else because I've officially reached grumpy old man status, bah humbug'? Une Serpico?
I'm not trying to 'downgrade everything else' just trying to stem the tide of upgrades of routes which have had their grades unchallenged for decades, bah humbug
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Grooved arete hard 7c - maybe 7c+ ? What you reckon Andy?
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Grooved arete hard 7c - maybe 7c+ ? What you reckon Andy?
7c with the knee bar ;)
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Well, based on the assumption it goes down a grade every year you try it, it's 7b+. Possibly 7b with the knee bar, if you get it to work, which I couldn't.
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Grooved arete hard 7c - maybe 7c+ ? What you reckon Andy?
I'm going to miss you :'(
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:great:
Please don't stop... I'm enjoying this. Personally though, I've always thought that Man With A Gun is 7C.
:dance1: