UKBouldering.com
places to visit => abroad => Topic started by: a dense loner on September 12, 2010, 07:44:36 pm
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does anyone have any worthwhile beta for this problem? specifically the start. everybody's scorecard on 8a.wrongstartholds says soft. i simply don't believe any of it. cheers for any help
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Start on the 2 obvious sloping crimps. Right foot on and then pull to good holds. 7b max? It's a one move wonder and probably not worth your time spend................WHAT A MINUTE!.......This problem is made for you..............it's you destiny..............go take it.
Also, when are you in MW?
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this is nowhere near 7b. you're saying you sit start on the 2sloping crimps right next to each other and put your right foot somewhere high where it can't be placed or use the bigish foothold underneath that sends you off balance to do a long move to rh hold then left then right?
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Yeah slopey crimps, high smear for right foot and up with right hand. Left out to a good-ish hold and right to a jug. It used to get 7c+, I thought 7c was more right though. It definately didnt feel 7b to me.
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Yes this is EXACTLY what I'm saying. Crux for me was getting my right foot to stick on the shit hold, and it's a crouch not a sit. Do a video search for starting position as I couldn't reach the starting holds from a sit
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http://novebi.ning.com/group/magicwood/forum/topics/son-of-a-gun (http://novebi.ning.com/group/magicwood/forum/topics/son-of-a-gun)
Are you telling me that there are holds lower than this?
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No not lower than this! You are just obviously too strong or maybe I was very weak when I did it!!
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I very much doubt that fella. I do like the crimp though. Either way this problem is log
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start from two slopy crimps, no sit start, probably around 7b+ :-\
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good find, looked elsewhere but no joy. didn't think you'd get rf there from sat on boulder. good to see guides are constantly updated :wall:
would never have thought of that guys sequence on the vid for the top. think the right foot may be too high for me, will see when it dries. cheers
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You would be fine with the right foot. If you lean back to put it on your body goes horizontal. I seem to remember a dragon being of help. I did the top slightly different by going out left to the obvious holds, but it's all about 1a from the first move. I was thinking for a minute that you had found some lower holds and that I'd started this in the wrong place :o
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it wouldn't of been a suprise in magic wood now would it!
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No not lower than this! You are just obviously too strong or maybe I was very weak when I did it!!
You were just blown away by a little makem punter flashing it. :)