UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => beta - chuffing => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on August 19, 2010, 03:18:44 pm
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Shameful beta request alert. :-[
What's the crucial gear on Lord nowadays with all the placements that have broke.
Thanks in advance.
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My favourite Lord anecdote is that El Mocho took a double rack of tricams with him and promptly placed so much gear he ran out of quickdraws and had to do the runout anyway. I suspect this is about 10% true, but its a good story.
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You can 'accidentally' get all the gear beta you want for either the top half or the bottom half (but not both without swinging around) by warming up on Right Wall first and abbing off.
I doubt the gear is any different now to 15 years ago. Hex 3 low down was the only off piste bit of gear I carried to a normal rack. Most crucial piece was a sling over a rounded spike, I placed a friend three to hold it in place but didn't clip the friend as it was no good for holding a fall.
6 feet below the top is a horizontal slot which takes a perfect rock 8, I fell taking a hand off to place this and have been gutted ever since!
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This picture (http://www.ukc2.com/images/dbpage.html?id=148174) (UKC so link only) and the associated comments may be of some use.
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You can 'accidentally' get all the gear beta you want for either the top half or the bottom half (but not both without swinging around) by warming up on Right Wall first and abbing off.
I doubt the gear is any different now to 15 years ago. Hex 3 low down was the only off piste bit of gear I carried to a normal rack. Most crucial piece was a sling over a rounded spike, I placed a friend three to hold it in place but didn't clip the friend as it was no good for holding a fall.
6 feet below the top is a horizontal slot which takes a perfect rock 8, I fell taking a hand off to place this and have been gutted ever since!
There goes yer onsight sausage!
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You can 'accidentally' get all the gear beta you want for either the top half or the bottom half (but not both without swinging around) by warming up on Right Wall first and abbing off.
I doubt the gear is any different now to 15 years ago. Hex 3 low down was the only off piste bit of gear I carried to a normal rack. Most crucial piece was a sling over a rounded spike, I placed a friend three to hold it in place but didn't clip the friend as it was no good for holding a fall.
6 feet below the top is a horizontal slot which takes a perfect rock 8, I fell taking a hand off to place this and have been gutted ever since!
There goes yer onsight sausage!
I will be happy with a flash/not tooling myself :whistle:
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If i remember rightly you can only tool yourself on the start and if you fall there you probably deserve to ;D
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You can 'accidentally' get all the gear beta you want for either the top half or the bottom half (but not both without swinging around) by warming up on Right Wall first and abbing off.
I doubt the gear is any different now to 15 years ago. Hex 3 low down was the only off piste bit of gear I carried to a normal rack. Most crucial piece was a sling over a rounded spike, I placed a friend three to hold it in place but didn't clip the friend as it was no good for holding a fall.
6 feet below the top is a horizontal slot which takes a perfect rock 8, I fell taking a hand off to place this and have been gutted ever since!
There goes yer onsight sausage!
13 years too late for that Doylo...
I remember a little hex low down, using a thin sling on a blunt spike, then crucial thin thread in a pocket below the ledge. A few really good wires on the ledge, then clip the rest of your rack to your last piece of gear (London Wall style) and go for the top.
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i was talking to the other sausage sausage ;D
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I can sell you Dave Thomas's rack that he used on LOTF.
£60
+ 41p p&p
or could just email it to you
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I can sell you Dave Thomas's rack that he used on LOTF.
£60
+ 41p p&p
or could just email it to you
Deal ;)
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I can sell you Dave Thomas's rack that he used on LOTF.
£60
+ 41p p&p
or could just email it to you
Pricey for a chalkbag, is it filled?
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I reckon fast and light is the way to go.
I took a set of wires, a few thin slings and 8 'draws if I remember rightly. Which is unlikely. And the hex for the start, although I'm sure a rock 5 would work.
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I can sell you Dave Thomas's rack that he used on LOTF.
£60
+ 41p p&p
or could just email it to you
Pricey for a chalkbag, is it filled?
I haven't got the chalkbag, just the hardwear.
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Can you sell mentalism?
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Can you sell mentalism?
Read the first post:
http://www.learnmagictricks.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26930 (http://www.learnmagictricks.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26930)
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How fucking random. Are you studying for a new career?
(http://derrenbrown.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/paul_daniels_online_diary.jpg)
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Yep... you wanna volunteer?
(http://www.magicbeyondimagination.com/images/saw_in_half.jpg)
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Essential gear for LOTF this weekend for sure....
(http://the-joke-shop.com/ProductImages/pmi11487.jpg)
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Can you sell mentalism?
Yes, yes I can.
That'll be £599.99 for today's installment
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Essential gear for LOTF this weekend for sure....
(http://the-joke-shop.com/ProductImages/pmi11487.jpg)
Is that Jim?
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take a skyhook. I did, and was very glad of it when i was engulfed in a particularly heavy and persistent rainstorm (even for wales) about halfway up, and lowered off it. I dimly remember getting quite a good 'shothole' alien (the purple one about the same as a red camalot) in somewhere before the heavens opened.
Unfortunately i can't be any more help than that as i havn't actually gone and finished it off yet.
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is this Lord?
http://twitpic.com/2i9lky (http://twitpic.com/2i9lky)
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no thats on the left wall, nice shot though!
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You sure that's Left Wall? Looks way more slabby than I remember, mind you the Pass looks a lot steeper than I recall too. :)
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I meant something on the left wall. Could be left wall though, is slightly slabby that side
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On my 'puter Dobbin's picture wasn't rotated.
Made the route look well easy.
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JOe la sage on leftwall? sure that pic was in a mag a few yr ago
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Take a skyhook or 2 for sure. And something for the shothole (purple alien?) I had nothing for the shothole and the crux felt really serious. I also tried to place a sling with my foot but didnt quite pull it off, but it would have been useful.
Got a gold camalot in a handhold just before the traverse right early on.
A rock 8 or 9 and a green camalot for the headwall are both bomber.
Not sure how much detail i should go into, if you want anymore beta just ask!
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Funny, I'm seeing no mention of large hexes here. Johnny & Andy Pollitt borrowed my 7 or 8 hex supposedly for LOTF, some time in the early 80s. I never got it back >:(