UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: Wipey Why on August 12, 2010, 02:10:59 pm
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Supposed to be a velcro Dragon (maybe like the original ones)
(http://www.deadpointmag.com/sites/default/files/uploads/images/Blackwing.jpg)
Anybody know anything about these?
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If these genuinely are a dragon with a velcro closing, and fit like a dragon, and everything else, like a dragon, but with velcro, then they are already my favourite shoe ever. They look quite dapper too.
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i'd heard rumours about a downturned anasazi, demo-ed in Salt Lake last week. maybe this is it. lucks pretty michael jackson to me.
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Would be nice to see a bigger picture of the Green Hornet shoe thats also in the making, I liked the sound of a laceup project too!
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i'd heard rumours about a downturned anasazi, demo-ed in Salt Lake last week. maybe this is it. lucks pretty michael jackson to me.
No there's one of those as well, the Arrowhead or something. That might also be my favourite shoe ever. At least for the one season that they produce them.
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The blackwing is a velcro version of the dragon, whilst the downturned anasazi is a seperate shoe, see here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/455765-largest_anasazi_001.JPG (http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/455765-largest_anasazi_001.JPG)
There's also a new moc
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lucks pretty michael jackson to me.
Shamone!
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let's hope the 5.10 idiots don't discontinue the dragon lace-up then. those of us with weird feet need laces.
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There's also a new moc
This one?
(http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/455645-largest_supermocc_025.JPG)
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thats the one
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that looks decent too.
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Looks like the prices may also go up (closer to sportivas) according to this site :(
http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Outdoor_Retailer_Summer_Market_2010_Wrap-up_1134.html (http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Outdoor_Retailer_Summer_Market_2010_Wrap-up_1134.html)
the velcro's will retail for $145-150, whilst the mocs will be $110, so £96 and £70 respectively, unless prices are different in the US for climbing shoes? :-\
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Arrowhead Anasazi
(http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/455765-largest_anasazi_001.JPG)
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Too many new shoes!
(http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/5/455675-largest_python_019.JPG) looks rather nice too
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Indeed, the Shaman!
(http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/0/455660-largest_shaman_022.JPG)
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Nice Adam. Evolv nearly got overlooked there.
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Nice Adam. Evolv nearly got overlooked there.
;)
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lets just hope the tennies turn out to be amazing and not massive dissapointments like the last lot (jet-7 and teams)
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Hopefully Evolv will work on the aesthetics of the Shaman before putting it out. Climbing performance aside, no-one wants to look like they've just been sick on their shoes.
Disappointments Jim? I love the Jet7's (have had 3 pairs now) and now they're finally broken in (and a bit easier to get on) my teams are excellent.
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^ what Stubbs said, although I do know a fair few who tried the Team's and didn't fancy the fit, so stuck to Dragon's. Always exciting to see new shoe ranges and work out next years shoe budget :greed:
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i couldn't get teams on, and could barely get jet7s on (high arch/instep?). thankfully dragons are the shit. all these new shoes make me think they're going to bin dragons off like they usually do with their good shoes after a year or two.
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Thankfully my feet seem to be a similar shape to the five ten foot model! I hear what you're saying about discontinuing the Dragon, hopefully they learn't their lesson after the V10, but who knows...
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I'm still in my V10s. I refuse to believe they could make me a better shoe. These new Dragon variants do look a potential good consolation prize mind.
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Some of these look awsome. Hope they've on the shelves by the time I hit NYC at the end of Sept and I'll be able to stock up. ;D
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Stubbs & Richie, you're the only 2 people I've heard that say that.
Everyone I know with jet 7's use them as wall shoes and they bag out like mad and when I tried the teams on, I thought I was going to break them
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I'm in camp Crouch. No, literally.
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I found them brilliant when broken in for font, being soft and also toe down so you can feel what your doing really nicely on steeper stuff as well as walls/slabs.They seemed a lot better than moccasyms on wall and slab climbs and more useful than teams on steeper stuff that didn't require crucial heels. Found the projects really good in font unless you had to pull on a heel where it came off a lot.
Wore Jet 7's for pretty much most things in magic last year and in the cave all year till I wore through the crozzly rubber on top of the right toe. Good shoes and had 2 pairs of them.
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Five Ten Blackwing 8)
What a brilliant name for a rock boot. It makes me think of some stealth attack helicopter...
(http://www.thebestpageintheuniverse.net/images/topgay6.jpg)
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Better than,
"Yeehah, MadRock Jester's dead."
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Better than,
"Yeehah, MadRock Jester's dead."
;D deserves a wad for sharpness....
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"You can be my blackwing man anytime"
"Bullshit, you can be mine"
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Stubbs & Richie, you're the only 2 people I've heard that say that.
Everyone I know with jet 7's use them as wall shoes and they bag out like mad and when I tried the teams on, I thought I was going to break them
teams are amazing. like V10s but way better IMO
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Hi Richie, wot site was it that you found the info on the new sportivas. They look the dogs
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It was just a photo off the same page all of the 5.10 photos were linked from:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Outdoor_Retailer_Summer_Market_2010_Wrap-up_1134.html (http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Gear_and_Reviews/Outdoor_Retailer_Summer_Market_2010_Wrap-up_1134.html)
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The heel on the velcro dragons looks a bit dodgy, like the kind that leave a massive air gap everywhere but on your achilles?
The arrowheads however; Potentially NSFW.
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I like my teams but they are too hard to get on (resulting in inevitable eventual rippage)
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The heel on the velcro dragons looks a bit dodgy...
It looks exactly the same as the heel on my Dragons, question?
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earlier ones had a different heel, voila:
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/bennp2000/DSC00201.jpg)
For me, those ^ fit better than the new style, which I'm still avoiding breaking in and actually, for everything recently I've been favouring whites anyway.
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Ah yeah I had some of those, but any self respecting punter has worn those out by now! The plasticy bits where the laces run broke on mine.
I actually prefer the new heel as the old ones went a bit too squidgy for my liking.
Can imagine you've been favouring the blanco's, not much call for a downturned toe on Preposterous Tales!
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I was meaning during the trip and on relevant stuff. Any boot will do for the trad grade I'm climbing at maybe even ones with nails.
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i prefer the old heel too. the gap in the rubber allowed the diagonal rubber strip to grip and hold the heel much better. now they're just plastered in rubber and (slightly) less secure/precise I feel.
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Dudes. Having had all of these on my feet (albeit sitting on the floor at a tradeshow) I have to say the Blackwings appeared mostly gash. It felt much more like a softened and lightened Jet7 than a Dragon. On he other hand, they haven't even decided which rubber to put on so they maight be substantially changed before (if*) they come out. *Word is they may be dropped.
The Hornet seemed the Dogs. Much improved on the project. 4mm rubber and similar stiffness to the Team but possible to get into without tearing your middle fingers off.
The Arrowhead sample was too big for Tim and I to be able to be sure how we felt about it. Probably very commercial and not bad but neither of us were excited by it. We'd really need to climb in it to be sure it's not a Matador.
The Lace-Up dragon is still going to be in the line.
I'm told there is an outside chance of us getting pairs to test so will let y'all know how we get on if we do.
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Did you see these?
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/TFxIo1e3TzI/AAAAAAAAHEQ/k-apHUCYssk/s1600/Five+Ten+Quantum.jpg (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/TFxIo1e3TzI/AAAAAAAAHEQ/k-apHUCYssk/s1600/Five+Ten+Quantum.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/TFxIo1e3TzI/AAAAAAAAHEQ/k-apHUCYssk/s1600/Five+Ten+Quantum.jpg)
They look like a Dragon with an Anasazi heel; are they just trying a load of different concepts out?
(From http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/2010/08/new-stuff-august.html (http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/2010/08/new-stuff-august.html) )
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Did you see these?
They look like a Dragon with an Anasazi heel; are they just trying a load of different concepts out?
Yep. Very crudely they are a downturned version of the Verde last. Very definately not a Dragon. What the pictures aren't really showing is how assymetric (or not) things are.
The Arrowhead and Quantum were both pretty conventional straight lasts with a downturn. The Quantum felt promising to us so perhaps the Arrowhead also would be decent in the right size. Both seemed like a decent choice for the modern youngster who thinks they need a downturned shoe for bouldering but really isn't man (or woman) enough for Dragons or Teams.
For the descerning Lady or Gentleman in the non-punter category I reckon Dragon, Team and Hornet will be the big guns in the armoury.
And before anyone asks. We did see the super-moc. It looked awful, felt good to me and bad to Tim so we're reserving judgement for now.
The high-top anasazi velcro (forget the name) I absolutely will not discuss. I have standards to uphold.
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Thanks man, it will be interesting to see which ones they run with, and good news about the Dragon staying on the lineup!
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they need to get rid of that purple ASAP, someone might think you were wearing Scarpa slippers or something daft.
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they need to get rid of that purple ASAP, someone might think you were wearing Scarpa slippers or something daft.
What, you don't want to look like you're wearing a pair of purple pythons on your feet? I kinda liked it. Perhaps I'm wierd.
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It would appear that Five Ten have started selling the Blackwing. There are Male and Female versions :-\
http://www.rockcreek.com/five-ten/blackwing-womens/ (http://www.rockcreek.com/five-ten/blackwing-womens/)
http://www.rockcreek.com/five-ten/blackwing-mens/ (http://www.rockcreek.com/five-ten/blackwing-mens/)
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(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/bennp2000/DSC00201.jpg)
(http://www.rockcreek.com/images_products/colors/five-ten/1166_03_092010b.jpg)
Looks good to me.
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Not the most technical looking toe I've ever seen on a boot though...
(http://www.rockcreek.com/images_products/colors/five-ten/1166_06_092010b.jpg)
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The female version would appear to be slightly different
(http://www.rockcreek.com/images_products/colors/five-ten/1166_03_092010b.jpg)
(http://www.rockcreek.com/images_products/colors/five-ten/1168_03_092010b.jpg)
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Not the most technical looking toe I've ever seen on a boot though...
Spade is the new downturned!
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Not the most technical looking toe I've ever seen on a boot though...
Spade is the new downturned!
that shape reminds me of what Jet 7 builds look like on my feet.
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I just had a look at my Dragons, Jet 7's and Teams from above and they all look similar to this. Waiaiaiaiaian did say that
I have to say the Blackwings appeared mostly gash. It felt much more like a softened and lightened Jet7 than a Dragon.
probably won't stop me buying some if they make it to these shores!
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You have a problem (and I'm not talking about veganism).
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You might remember (from the dim and distant past) that when you go climbing regularly, you wear shoes out ;) They're all pretty knackered except for the teams. But yes, I do have a shoe problem...
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leave him alone Jasper, short people have feelings too.
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I just had a look at my Dragons, Jet 7's and Teams from above and they all look similar to this. Waiaiaiaiaian did say that
I have to say the Blackwings appeared mostly gash. It felt much more like a softened and lightened Jet7 than a Dragon.
probably won't stop me buying some if they make it to these shores!
I did, and I stand by it. On the other hand, I tried a sample and who knows what it will morph into.
I'm genuinely amazed if they are on sale somewhere already. Only a fortnight ago they weren't certain which rubber was going on (Mystique, C4 and POnyxx were all mooted).
Lastly, if they get here, we'll stock them, whatever I thought of the sample. I gave up trying to decide which to stock and they still haven't got me trial pairs of the Hornet and Arrowhead so I'm just taking the easy way out and stocking the whole damn FiveTen line.
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Emailed the store, they're expecting the arrowheads in Jan. I 'was' thinking of getting nats folks to pick up a pair whilst they're over there but if they're 'softer and lighter' (how the f*ck?), then it'll be pass from me.
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wiain you haven't been talking to barnsey about your buying plan have you?
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wiain you haven't been talking to barnsey about your buying plan have you?
Would that be Barnsey the teacher? If he's gonna duck out someone has to fly the flag. Although I thought V12 were the masters of what I'll call the "we'll have it" school of buying rockshoes :)
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The Five Ten website has new shoes on it. (http://fiveten.com/products/product-search/tag/footweartype/Microns_m23/)
No sign ofthe Supermocc, but some others mentioned in this thread are there.
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Green 'Hornet' - Nov '10
Arrowhead - Nov '10
Blackwing - Dec '10 (err didn't someone link these for sale somewhere else already?, also the Womens version only goes down to a UK4 which seems idiotic)
Anasazi LV lapis teal - Nov '10
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Green 'Hornet' - Nov '10
Arrowhead - Nov '10
Blackwing - Dec '10 (err didn't someone link these for sale somewhere else already?, also the Womens version only goes down to a UK4 which seems idiotic)
Anasazi LV lapis teal - Nov '10
Only in Fivetenland I suspect. For those of us in the real world I'll put my money on April, which is when the new shoes always arrive, irrespective of alleged due dates.
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which are you intending on stocking :-\ ?
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which are you intending on stocking :-\ ?
The whole caboodle. The lot. Every goddamn one of them. Even the abomination I cannot name but which Dean Potter helped design.
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The whole caboodle. The lot. Every goddamn one of them.
Awesome, I'll take one pair of each of the ones not made of cow!
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Blackwing - Dec '10 (err didn't someone link these for sale somewhere else already?, also the Womens version only goes down to a UK4 which seems idiotic)
Unlucky Stu/Ru
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Unlucky Stu/Ru
Ho ho ho. My feet aren't that small! Size 4 is fine.
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which are you intending on stocking :-\ ?
The whole caboodle. The lot. Every goddamn one of them. Even the abomination I cannot name but which Dean Potter helped design.
and that's how a man speaks.
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must say that the Hornet looks very good.
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I note the Hornet uses "Mystique" rubber.
So so so scandalous.
(http://www.plong.com/MusicCatalog/M/Mis-Teeq%20-%20Mis-Teeq/Mis-Teeq%20-%20Mis-Teeq.jpg)
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From reading the martketing nonsense-platitudes on their site can anyone actually tell me what the real difference between the dragon and hornet is supposed to be? Other than just making sure you've got 2 colour options to co-ordinate with any outfit?
Ditto arrowhead and blackwing.
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From the pictures it looks like the toes are a lot less technical, looks more like an optimus prime toe.
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Comparing the Dragons and Hornets on plan the lacing looks very different (curved on the hornets)
On the other two the heels look different on plan but I can't see a lot else.
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I suppose the big question is which ones will still be on their product lineup in a years time, and which ones will l be buying for £50 out of a bargin bin.
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Initial sponsored athlete so possibly somewhat impartial report on the phantoms (lace anasazi with downturned toe)
http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10676-bret-johnston-tries-out-the-new-quantums (http://fiveten.com/community/blog/10676-bret-johnston-tries-out-the-new-quantums)
I wish when I bought (or in this case got given) shoes I randomly received extra pairs of new models in the delivery box.
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I might put an order in and see what turns up!
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http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/fiveten-blackwing-p-945.html (http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/fiveten-blackwing-p-945.html)
Price is pretty eye-watering!
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http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/fiveten-blackwing-p-945.html (http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/fiveten-blackwing-p-945.html)
Price is pretty eye-watering!
Ouch!
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Ludicrous would be closer to the mark! :jaw:
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Better get used to it. Everyone (except maybe Boreal) are going to be around that price.
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"Going to be" as of when? Outside still seem to have relatively cheap prices after the VAT rise http://www.outside.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdSrch.cgi?formCategory=Rock%20Boots&formBrand=All&search_text=&srchType=&orderColumn=price&orderPriceOrder=desc (http://www.outside.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdSrch.cgi?formCategory=Rock%20Boots&formBrand=All&search_text=&srchType=&orderColumn=price&orderPriceOrder=desc)
as do V12 http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=168&page=1&sort=4d&oscsid=372c7274e5f937839de99aa5794abb29 (http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=168&page=1&sort=4d&oscsid=372c7274e5f937839de99aa5794abb29)
Are we talking about as new models come in? I might buy a couple of pairs of teams now then!
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Are the prices supposed to go up with the introduction of the new shoes?
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Well Teams are discontinued in the UK I believe (hence you can find some in the sale). Most prices will be going up across the board. Climbing shoes are going to look like the biggest rise (if anyone wants, I can tell you how good value they really are, and how 120 is the proper price).
When I said everyone, I don't know that for sure, but don't be surprised by some shoes going up by 20 quid.
As for when... basically as soon as any given shop gets it's first delivery of the New Year probably.
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My policy on price increases is always that I try to do it when I have about equal numbers of shoes bought in at the old and new price. That way we are neither profiteereing, nor losing out amssively while we wait for the last pair of size 15 clown shoes to go.
In this case, likely timing looks to be around the end of this month. The official change in RRP was Jan 1st. The new models coming in that we didn't previously stock are going to have to be at the new RRP.
For those that have somehow missed that price increases are going to happen: the very simplified story is that RRP of anasazis and most new models is £100-£105.
BTW Teams are still firmly in the line up. I have good stock.
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Apologies for not including your shop in my post above wiain http://www.cragxclimbing.com/ (http://www.cragxclimbing.com/) always come through with the goods!
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BTW Teams are still firmly in the line up. I have good stock.
any more info on which shoes you're likely to have in/when? I know this is 5.10 so usual caveats apply.
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any more info on which shoes you're likely to have in/when? I know this is 5.10 so usual caveats apply.
Not really, sorry. They were all due on the 1st Jan but usual caveats..... I get about three days warning now when things ship. I know that a box of Dragons and Sirena left Belgium today, for example. That's the third delivery so far this year but it has all been current lines. I'd still have to guess March for the new, more exciting stuff.
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Just had a chat to Banana Fingers who said their prices will be going up in the next 2 weeks.
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On the bright side: A motivation to get on the campus board :great:
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any more info on which shoes you're likely to have in/when? I know this is 5.10 so usual caveats apply.
Arrowheads are being shoe-horned into the stock room now. Blackwings, hornets et al are still in the ether.
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Whats the preliminary diagnosis, Iain?
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Over £100 for a pair of rock shoes as standard?? :o Bring back those old machined EBs I used to buy mail-order for a tenner :'(
Preliminary diagnosis, looking grim:
That your credit card is on life-support, FUBAR BUNDY.
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Whats the preliminary diagnosis, Iain?
I tried them on tonight; first impressions were they're a very orange, reasonably soft downturned shoe. They fit reasonably well but not as well as dragons and to me at least it seems like you can't get them tight enough around the toes; naturally as they're velcro's and not laceup's.
I don't really understand where they fit in as Dragons or normal velcro's seem more appealing depending on your needs (or wants) rather than something mushed up in the middle. Having said that I'd rather these than Jet7's or Projects any day of the week.
I'm in need for a decent soft-ish shoe at the miunute as the current lineup is:
Dragons (one nearly done and a boxed probably undersized pair)
Whites (one rotting pair, one exclusively used on slate)
Verde's (baggy tradding boot)
none of which perform well on Grit, but that could be the feet they're on!
I'm still hoping the Quantum's will be dynamite, not that I need another slightly downturned stiff pair of shoes :shrug:
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I could do with some boots I can actually heel-hook in, are there any with good heels that don't have banana toes?
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Over £100 for a pair of rock shoes as standard?? :o
I recently found a receipt for a pair of Boreal Vectors, a pretty technical shoe in it's time. £65 in 1995. Until very recently you would pay no more than that for a pair for 5.10 velcros. Shoe prices have hardly changed in 15 years.
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Yeah I had some of them, a bit clumpy I thought. Not a patch on the £10 EBs :P
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I could do with some boots I can actually heel-hook in, are there any with good heels that don't have banana toes?
New 5x's?
LV's?
The quantums look like they'll be less down-toed than say a dragon? Hornets look like an un ripened bannana!
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I could do with some boots I can actually heel-hook in, are there any with good heels that don't have banana toes?
The best fitting heel I have found are on solutions
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I agree, however I think the heel on the dragon works better.
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I've only ever used mk1 dragons, have got a brand new pair of mk2's in the box waiting to test.
I think now 5.10's are £100+, once my new verdes and dragons expire, I will be buying solutions
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The best fitting heel I have found are on solutions
I guess 1 out of 2 points met isn't such a bad thing :shrug:
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Scarpa Instinct laces at Rockover for £65
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The best fitting heel I have found are on solutions
I guess 1 out of 2 points met isn't such a bad thing :shrug:
yes but solutions are softer and less down-toed than dragons so could be used on a greater variety of angles
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I recently found a receipt for a pair of Boreal Vectors, a pretty technical shoe in it's time. £65 in 1995. Until very recently you would pay no more than that for a pair for 5.10 velcros. Shoe prices have hardly changed in 15 years.
I understand some of the motivations behind it but it seems a very drastic price hike looking at shoes over the counter, the word recession is still happily bouncing about.
Surely it would have been better to phase this in gradually instead of making up for 15 years worth in one swoop?
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I could do with some boots I can actually heel-hook in, are there any with good heels that don't have banana toes?
The best fitting heel I have found are on solutions
I have the same problem, whilst the heel is solid on the solutions you can't heel hook on edges or anything sharp and pointy. Admittedly very problem specific.
Any news on the Evolv newbies? Always wondered what the predators were like.
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Any news on the Evolv newbies? Always wondered what the predators were like.
The new Predators and Talons both have a nice tight fitting heel. Certainly on my feet. Then again, so did the Dragons. As for the Shaman, won't be around for another few months yet.
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Surely it would have been better to phase this in gradually instead of making up for 15 years worth in one swoop?
Word. I told them that but they had backed themselves into a corner. They had already published their Autumn prices when the incoming EU saless manager got given an ultimatum over their UK pricing by the accounts people. He couldn't change the prices because of the 'outdoor' shops and their infernal catalogues. So he had to do the whole lot in one fell swoop. (At least that is th unifficial official story)
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Whats the preliminary diagnosis, Iain?
I haven't had a chance to do more than pull them on my feet so it's a tad early to say. What I can tell you: The toe profile is not an Anasazi toe. It looks more similar to a dragon or team but it seems lower volume. They are softer than I expected - I thought the stiffness would be similar to a VCS but they're much softer. They're red.
I tested a demo pair a while back and they felt excellent but had no stiffener so had very little edging power with my feet under me. I thought they'd get stiffened up to make a more edgy shoe. The apparently soft midsole leaves them surprisingly close to dragons, teams et al. On the other hand, the lower volume fit might make them a good dragon alternative for skinnier feet.
***This is all cased on a whole 5 minutes on my feet. I climb in them tomorrow and decide I was talking shite***
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Any news on the Evolv newbies? Always wondered what the predators were like.
The new Predators and Talons both have a nice tight fitting heel. Certainly on my feet. Then again, so did the Dragons. As for the Shaman, won't be around for another few months yet.
I had a pair of the new talons after finding the previous version of them amazing. I would say the heel is ok, but not great. The featured rubber they have put on it is not great for a lot of situations.
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I could do with some boots I can actually heel-hook in, are there any with good heels that don't have banana toes?
To be honest I thought the velcro heels (before they fucked about putting cuts in them a few years back etc) were as good as anything else.
Dragon heels are good but will come apart at the many seams if you actually pull hard on stuff with them.
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Just wondering Iain...
Have you found the latest deliveries of Dragon's to feel fairly narrow in comparison to older ones? I tried on a pair today that got dropped off from Beris and they felt super narrow at the toe joint with my foot balling out over the outside edge a fair bit.
Was going to buy a new pair to break in for a trip in April but might have to wait and hope the Hornets are out by then and aren't as narrow!
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Just wondering Iain...
Have you found the latest deliveries of Dragon's to feel fairly narrow in comparison to older ones? I tried on a pair today that got dropped off from Beris and they felt super narrow at the toe joint with my foot balling out over the outside edge a fair bit.
Was going to buy a new pair to break in for a trip in April but might have to wait and hope the Hornets are out by then and aren't as narrow!
Our January delivery of Dragons hasn't arrived yet - all our Dragons were delivered pre-Christmas. Joe and I just tried some on and they feel the same. It would be a big surprise if they had changed the shape since then without any warning.
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Nice one. I think the pre christmas ones we had felt fairly tight too (the ones with the bobbly laces) as I remember Holger saying the exact same thing about the width of them.
There's quite a big difference in comparison to the older ones I've got with the old style laces.
Just tried the 9's we have, which felt the same as the 8.5 in length but a normal fit on the sides, sorted.
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Are you saying that the fit on 5.10 shoes changes between each shoe? Shock horror!
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Just got word that the blackwings are on their way from FiveTen europe. Will let ya'll know if they have turned out reet or deserve the name cackwing.
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Will let ya'll know if they have turned out reet or deserve the name cackwing.
or "wackbling"
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Initial reports on the wackbling are that it ain't a velcro Dragon. (I thought it was for the first five minutes of wearing them but the lads over-ruled me and on reflection they're right). The last is wider in the base of the toes and higher voume in the instep.
They feel more like a softened lightweight Jet7, which is pretty much what we thought after trying the sample. On the plus side, they didn't feel nearly so cack as the sample.
So, the initial assesment is: Not a train crash, but not a Dragon.
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So whats the current nearest thing to a jet 7?
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(http://www.fiatplus.com/images/P/MATRA-P5.jpg)
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looks like more rubber than the 7s
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So whats the current nearest thing to a jet 7?
:shrug: The wackbling (thanks Dave, I like that one) seems Jet7 like in shape but we are Dragon and Anasazi wearers so a Jet7 fan may spot differences we didn't. Wackblings seem lighter so might soften up quicker but I'm guessing now. We won't really know as much as I'd like about any of the new shoes until many more have gone out of the door and we've had feedback from people we can rely on.
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The wackbling (thanks Dave, I like that one)
my pleasure.
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I noticed that Cragx have the new Talons in (for those that posted earlier on), not to mention the range of spine-less offerings from 5.10 ;D
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Jet 7's are my favorite shoe for everything (apart from limestone sport routes) so was gutted to find out they were being discontinued. The Arrowhead feels like a Jet 7 but without a decent heel and any rubber on the upper toe. The Blackwig (you can have that for free Ru) is slightly narrower than the Jet 7 at the toe and heel, but fits somewhere between them and the Dragon.
I hope that these are the shoe that I've been looking for (Teams would not fit my feet) and that they don't stop making them in the next few months!
.................oh and I'm the same size in Dragons/Blackwing (6.5) and half a size smaller in Whites/Jet 7's
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slight tangent iaiaian, but when you are getting these badboys in? They look well specious.
(http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/10094_101701_1295988249.jpg)
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slight tangent iaiaian, but when you are getting these badboys in? They look well specious.
(http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/10094_101701_1295988249.jpg)
I refer the RH gentleman to the answer I gave much earlier in this thread. I cannot discuss that shoe in public. It would be like asking your gran how best to comit an act of bestiality.
Speaking more generally, we are getting in every model of shoe and have no idea when they will eventually turn up.
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nice to see Stevie Wonder has joined the 5.10 design team.
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Jet 7's are my favorite shoe for everything (apart from limestone sport routes) so was gutted to find out they were being discontinued.
Jet 7s are still on the 5.10 website, when are they being/have been discontinued?
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Can you pump the tounge on those warlocks? Look sheet
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Jet 7s are still on the 5.10 website, when are they being/have been discontinued?
Last year.
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Anyone got/used those pink Quantum things? A downturned pink Anasazi (apparently).
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Anyone got/used those pink Quantum things? A downturned pink Anasazi (apparently).
Not convinced by the downturned pink comparison (but then it is better than decribing a lightweight Jet7 as a velcro dragon, but I digress). They're way softer than anasazis - similar to a Dragon p'raps? and much lower volume than most of the others. We have them in our shrine. Come and have a play.
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A downturned pink Anasazi (apparently).
Thats just bollocks. I thought they looked fantastic, and they do fit quite well but the toe is softer (IMO) than the dragons and straightens out with the slightest pressure.
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A downturned pink Anasazi (apparently).
Thats just bollocks. I thought they looked fantastic, and they do fit quite well but the toe is softer (IMO) than the dragons and straightens out with the slightest pressure.
A bit Jet-7ish then? :-\
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A bit Jet-7ish then? :-\
Not in fit. My memory of the Jet7 was that it was pretty high-volume. The Quantum is distinctly slim and low volume. Softness may be similar - I thought the Q was a bit softer but it's hard to be sure from just quick trials of the shoes.
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I assume this is the same for other shops, but we noticed a classic Five Tenism with the sole units on these shoes:
http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/10098-blackwing (http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/10098-blackwing)
On their website 5.10 say the Blackwing comes with a Mystique sole, whilst their own picture shows it with a C4 sole... but here's the best bit: our stock has HF soles, like the Dragon. :geek:
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And don't expect the sizing to be different to anything else. Just found a pair of 6.5's which are more like 7.5's. Fortunately found a pair of 6.5's, which are actually 6.5's. Joy.
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as long as they don't come with boreal or scarpa rubber i'm sure they're fine.
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Incidentally I got to try out some Quantum's at a boot demo last night (Keenus is raving about them on his recent blog) and found them to feel like Dragons, but not quite as good, with a worse heel.
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Anyone worn the Quantums for any length of time and know how much they stretch? I was thinking of buying some today but wasn't sure how much stretch to allow for.
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Can anyone give me a heads up on arrowhead sizing vs regular velcros?
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Can anyone give me a heads up on arrowhead sizing vs regular velcros?
mine are quite a bit smaller than the velcros. I wear a 9.5 in velcros as a nice tight shoe and my 10.5 arrowheads feel very tight, they seem more like a 9 in velcros. They have taken a long while to break in but that might be because there so tight, im not sure. The Arrowheads are also much lower volume and feel quite a bit stiffer than the velcros.
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Can anyone give me a heads up on arrowhead sizing vs regular velcros?
mine are quite a bit smaller than the velcros. I wear a 9.5 in velcros as a nice tight shoe and my 10.5 arrowheads feel very tight, they seem more like a 9 in velcros. They have taken a long while to break in but that might be because there so tight, im not sure. The Arrowheads are also much lower volume and feel quite a bit stiffer than the velcros.
Not trying to be deliberately contrary but the arrowheads feel much softer than velcros to me, a very nice soft slipper. Size-wise I took the same in arrowheads to velcros
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i couldnt get my feet in the 9.5 Arrowheads i tried, 5.10 sizing ect ect.
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Can anyone give me a heads up on arrowhead sizing vs regular velcros?
Half to full size less generous. I'm 6 in velcro and iirc needed 7 in Arrowhead. I'm 7.5 in Dragon if that helps. CragX staff in general shifted half a size rather than a full size.
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I found this pic of the new machine they use af 5.10 to stitch the size to the shoes.
(http://www.rateyours.com/blog/uploaded_images/lottery_machine-727064.jpg)
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Got some Quantums as they fit my feet a little better than the Arrowheads. I'm pretty impressed with them and I'm pretty sure that they'll become my go-to shoe for pretty much everything apart from smeary grit (VCS) and major toe-scumming (teams) and possibly tiny tiny limestone edges on vertical rock, although fresh from the box they're good on them too.
The heel is good to my mind, but then I like the VCS heel, which is vastly underrated I think. The heel is a bit more dragony than the VCS, but of general VCS design.
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Arrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrowheads.
In Ratho Tiso for £82.50 instead of £110. I had to buy a pair.
They fit my feet verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry nicely. Downturned but snug without cramping. The uppers are pretty soft which makes them easy to get into.
I went for a size 7, I normally take 6.5 in VCS browns. The 7s fit with optimum tightness straight away so I am a bit concerned that they will stretch, however people keep saying they fit smaller so maybe they will be okay.
I think they might fit my broad flippers better because they are a bit less super-pointy than some shoes, there seems to be nuff space for extraneous toes. So that might be worth bearing in mind.
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The 7s fit with optimum tightness straight away so I am a bit concerned that they will stretch, however people keep saying they fit smaller so maybe they will be okay.
Just wear two pairs of socks if they bag out... ;)
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As per Ru's comments re the Quantum - I have also bougght a pair and for my narrow feet the heels are a particularly good fit - better than Dragons for example. If they were a bit stiffer and had some tackier rubber (am I the only person who doesn't really get on with the Onyx version of Stealth?) they would be spot on
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so they need better rubber and be stiffer does that not make them a bit :shit:
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(am I the only person who doesn't really get on with the Onyx version of Stealth?)
it seems a tad harder and less 'predictable and feely' than C4 in my opinion.
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Punter me to your heart's content, but I reckon the Mystique on my teams can stick to things better than the C4 or Onyxx shoes I've got...
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horses for courses etc...
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Hmmm... renaming of the Blackwing? New version of the Team? Ladies and gentlemen, I present the Black.
(http://fiveten.com/images/stories/jreviews/12510_1183-01-1337356568.jpg) (http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/12510-team-510r-black)
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They'd look awesome with white rubber.
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Ala white wall tyres?
(http://memex.naughtons.org/wp-content/Whitewall.jpg)
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Aye. I'm still on the lookout for a pair of those boreal indos from the late '90s with pale grey rubber.
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So what's the difference from the Team apart from a horrible - in my opinion - choice of colours?
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it's the new team I think they've relaxed the fit a little bit
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I've been wearing a pair of Blackwings for a couple of months and quite like them for steep stuff and indoor walls. They seem to be slightly narrower and the toes are more pointy than Dragons, and fit my (narrow) feet quite well
I was thinking of buying another pair before they are (inevitably) discontinued - has anybody tried the women's version and be able to comment on how they compare with the men's version - I assume they will be even narrower and lower volume?
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Was going to replace my Arrowheads but considering a change to Blackwings, any ideas on the size difference if any. I believe 510 advise a full size up?
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I was a normal Streetshoe size in Arrowheads and would go with the same for teams. Uk 8 Street Uk 8 in arrowheads
In blancos, vcs and verdes i need to downsize to a UK 6,5.