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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Greg C on August 02, 2010, 10:55:51 pm

Title: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: Greg C on August 02, 2010, 10:55:51 pm
Sorry if this should be in the 'new topos' section, but I thought it was reasonably news worthy and there is an actual news report to go with it.
Any who, feel free to shift it if you deem necessary.

http://lakesbloc.com/news/291-st-bees-north-guide-released-.html (http://lakesbloc.com/news/291-st-bees-north-guide-released-.html)
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: Jim on August 03, 2010, 08:01:49 am
nice one Greg.
please release a guide book!
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: SpanishJuan on August 03, 2010, 09:04:44 am
Tip top topo Greg. I agree with Jim I look forward to buying a shiny printed copy :thumbsup:
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: benpritch on August 03, 2010, 09:17:42 am
brilliant guide.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: Bonjoy on August 03, 2010, 10:20:02 am
I don't get a credit for the FA of Yellow Bellied Whimper?  :lol:
Nice one Greg
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: Greg C on August 03, 2010, 11:19:34 am
Thanks for plaudits guys.

Bonjoy, I wasn't quite sure if you'd have wanted that honer, thus the omission.  ;)

To be honest the thing I'm most happy about is the fact that all the excellent more recent problems, from the likes of Dan, Ned, Tom etc. are now documented, so people can easily find and get on what are some of the best climbs in the lakes.

It's purely coincidental, but it's quite nice that the Cumbria Bolt Fund are, as we speak, re-bolting many of the classic routes at the crag -  which is a top drawer effort from Al, Kieth and co. despite what some have said on other sites. So with that and this new bouldering guide, St. Bees is hopefully set to be hot destination over the next few years, and rightly so. The farmer might even be able to retire off the parking proceeds, I might ask for share  :lol: .

Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: Bonjoy on August 03, 2010, 11:59:18 am
You guessed right.

Have never done any of the routes there. Must get myself there soon. Are they also rebolting the Lakes Slate? I've always liked the Lakes slate which seems to suit me more than the slabby Welsh stuff.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: Greg C on August 03, 2010, 12:12:02 pm
As far as I know, there's no set agenda to sort out all the lakes slate (I may be wrong, I'm not exactly in the loop), however they did a job on Hodge Close recently, re-bolting stuff and retro bolting a number of old (neglected) trad lines.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: tc on August 03, 2010, 01:15:31 pm
Top job as ever, Greg! Carrock next?
tc
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: Adam Lincoln on August 03, 2010, 01:24:11 pm
, however they did a job on Hodge Close recently, re-bolting stuff and retro bolting a number of old (neglected) trad lines.

Anyone know if a list exists of what has been done? I love Hodge close, very atmospheric  ;)
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: tc on August 03, 2010, 01:26:53 pm
http://www.cumbriaboltfund.co.uk/CUMBRIA_BOLT_FUND/Crag_List.html (http://www.cumbriaboltfund.co.uk/CUMBRIA_BOLT_FUND/Crag_List.html)
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: lukeyboy on August 17, 2010, 09:37:22 pm
Great work on the topo, thank you for putting in the time and effort  :great:
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: yorkshireman on September 07, 2010, 01:11:36 pm
great new guide greg,i actually used this to climb at st bees yesterday :)
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: JamieG on November 04, 2010, 02:56:52 pm
Was thinking of heading to St Bees tomorrow (the 5th) on the way to Scotland and wondered how quickly it dries after rain. I know that shouldn't climb there if it is damp and the forecast says it will rain there today but be reasonably dry and windy tomorrow. Will a morning of dry windy weather be enough? Or does it need a couple days to dry out after a soaking?

Cheers for any info, Jamie
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: SA Chris on November 04, 2010, 03:20:08 pm
If in doubt, head to Carrock Fell
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: JamieG on November 04, 2010, 03:26:07 pm
That is the usual location when we head north. Fantastic venue. Just fancied a change of scenery, but don't want to damage any rock. We can always see what it is like on the way south again.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: GCW on November 04, 2010, 04:53:17 pm
It's another hour past Carrock Fell.

It dries fairly quickly, and seems to have it's own microclimate.  Be aware of tide times.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: JamieG on November 04, 2010, 05:18:33 pm
Cheers GCW. We'll check it out. But if it is wet, we'll head back to Carrock. I've checked the tides and it should be good in the afternoon. Any particular recommendations around 6c/7a. I like more technical stuff in general, but don't mind a bit of thugging.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: richieb on November 04, 2010, 05:26:34 pm
Great looking guide. Thanks Greg.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: andy_e on November 05, 2010, 12:58:26 am
Do the following and have a mint day:

Apiary Arete - 5+ - Beautifully scuplted holds and fantastic climbing are a great introduction to St. Bees bouldering
Traverse on the boulder right of Apiary Arete - 7a - Powerful moves on good holds.
Undercooke - 7a - Technical thuggery on decent slopers!
Headbanger - 7a - One powerful move with a heel-toe and then it's over.
Slopey Arete close to that highball 7c+ wall - 6c+ - very good with an added bit of spice.
Fisherman's Dyno - 6a - Amazing moves, totally unique!
The Arete - Tricky, bizarre, amazing! Got spanked on this one.
Hueco Crack - 7a - Haven't done this one but I've heard it's amazing.

Should be enough there to keep you going! Pick any problem from the guide and it'll be good though.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: JamieG on November 05, 2010, 10:05:41 am
Cheers andi_e,

That is good looking hit list. Can't wait to check it out. Will report back.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: JamieG on November 06, 2010, 07:45:50 pm
 :'( Rained stopped play heading north. And the on the way south we only had time to pop into Carrock Fell.  Still, there was a silver lining since i managed slopey arete on the low boulder. First Lakes 7a.  :)

Will keep the hit list for another day. Cheers for all the info.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: petejh on March 08, 2011, 08:56:13 pm
Work's sending me to Barrow-in-Furness for two days this week and I stumbled across LakesBloc.com whilst researching what my bouldering options are (I hardly know the Lakes apart from a Hard Rock ticking trip about 10 years ago)... bloody hell, how good is this site! Top top effort  :clap2:
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: BenF on March 09, 2011, 07:44:53 am
LakesBloc.com... bloody hell, how good is this site! Top top effort  :clap2:

Indeed.  Greg has put so much time and energy into not only developing boulders but making an amazing resource.  As you say, a really top effort.
Title: Re: NEW St. Bees Head - North Guide
Post by: biscuit on March 10, 2011, 04:53:08 pm
LakesBloc.com... bloody hell, how good is this site! Top top effort  :clap2:

Indeed.  Greg has put so much time and energy into not only developing boulders but making an amazing resource.  As you say, a really top effort.

You're not wrong. I was looking at my tattered rockfax lakes guide the other day and thinking it's 5 yrs old now. If only someone had kept a record of the large amount of new problems that have been done in the Lakes over the last few years and would make a new guide.

Go on Greg give it another go. You've got to get something out of all your work sometime, apart from karma.
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