UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: mattreid on July 12, 2010, 03:20:41 pm
-
Has anybody done this ?
getting to the flakes near the top just about but it looks like its snapped a few times . are they solid ?
using a thumb on the bottom one and trying to bump up them with left hand still on the really good gaston.can't really figure out another way of getting the top flake in control .
-
A bit more info might be useful. Whereabout?
-
the problems called " 7a wall " on the shell shot boulder near the tank
-
Got quite high on it when I was on my own with one mat, the flakes were flexing so I came down.
-
I've done it a few times and always worried about the flakes, but not that much. I think they're fine with a bit of care. The lichen is more troubling.
using a thumb on the bottom one and trying to bump up them with left hand still on the really good gaston.can't really figure out another way of getting the top flake in control .
That seems about right from what I remember (its a couple of years since I last went there). I remember a bit of a pop to a good-ish hold just before the top, with some careful footwork to stay in balance. I also remember that at first I thought it was dead hard, but then I got the knack of it. It's actually a really cool and under-rated problem (hence why no-one has heard of it).
-
I was there a month ago, so it's either flexing more or I weigh a lot more than you.
Answers on a postcard :lol:
-
Given your track record i think it's a no-brainer.
-
Was playing on this today - its shut me down before and did so today (thuogh I was turd today...).. This is frustrating as it looks like it should be right up my street - good holds, long reaches... So, my sequence...
Going from the obvious slot at chest level I span up with my left hand to get the diagonal hold. I then re-adjust rf and lf, then bring my rf up to the starting hand hold. Pop lf out to good crimpy ledge on left and bring rh across to match on the diagonal hold. Then I try and reach up with my rh for the lower of the two high flakes - but seem no-where near.
Is that obvious chalked flake out to the right useful? To me it seemed a bit of a red herring - but this could be where I was going wrong. Class looking problem...
Tom