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places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: tomtom on July 03, 2010, 05:53:30 pm

Title: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on July 03, 2010, 05:53:30 pm
Went to Harmers wood this morning with Tris,

(discussed more here but probably deserves its own thread: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg267003.html#msg267003 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8101.msg267003.html#msg267003) )
 
What a fantastic spot. Great access, fantastic quality rock - sandstone with almost grit like levels of friction. Little/no wear - pristine describes it best. The problems we did (c.5 > 6b) were all really top quality - no trade or 'whatever' problems. Some fantastic just off vertical slabs, loads of great moves, rock overs, aretes, lovely mono's little flakes and pockets. Most of the top outs were fine - though a little dirty/earthy, nothing some light traffic would sort out. Conditions were not ideal (warm) but its shaded and the rock itself was cool. Its a lovely spot - really secluded and pretty  - no litter, broken glass, chavs etc.. etc.. very family / small child friendly...

Thoroughly recommended for a trip out - I'll be heading there again for sure. I think Tris has some pictures to process from there - so he may pop a couple up... Thanks to BenF and Andy Popp for posting up the pics/directions and pictures...

Tom
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Jim on July 04, 2010, 03:59:55 pm
looks mega, will probably go and have a look tomorrow evening.
heres some copy & paste from the other thread for ease:

directions:
Harmers Wood is located just behind Helsby Hill.  Approaching Helsby on the A 56 from Frodham turn left on to Old Chester Road at the end of the long straight and after you have passed Helsby High School.  After a bend turn left onto Bates Lane and after 500 metres turn steeply right onto Hill Road North and park up at a small car park (with a big sign) just after a sharp bend.  Enter the woods on the obvious path and turn left on a subsidiary path after 50 metres.  The main quarry is obvious.

photos:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4718629156_1a8fe21552.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4718630240_9380a66c73.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4717986181_48f3f36cca.jpg) (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/4717981517_eb719dbfe6.jpg)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2010, 04:15:10 pm
The car park is here: Walk into the woods, fork left after 30-50m,  can't miss it.

http://maps.google.com/maps?q=53.269798,-2.756263&num=1&sll=53.270487,-2.756367&sspn=0.00598,0.021136&ie=UTF8&ll=53.270911,-2.756109&spn=0.00598,0.021136&z=16 (http://maps.google.com/maps?q=53.269798,-2.756263&num=1&sll=53.270487,-2.756367&sspn=0.00598,0.021136&ie=UTF8&ll=53.270911,-2.756109&spn=0.00598,0.021136&z=16)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: GCW on July 04, 2010, 05:59:21 pm
If only we had a superhero that could morph that info into some kind of method of navigating there, possibly by using technology.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Jim on July 04, 2010, 06:57:04 pm
it will be added to the poi's so don't lie awake at night worrying about it  ;)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Tris on July 04, 2010, 07:11:23 pm
To echo what Tom said - absolutely fantastic spot, really loved it.

Nice solid sandstone, good friction (even though it was a hot day). Lots of nice problems, felt quite highball in places but the landings are great, soft mud/bark etc, no rocks or glass. Superb climbing - we enjoyed every single problem we did.
It's so nice to have found a decent venue that I don't have to drive for hours to get to! Thanks Ben/Andy..  :great:

I foresee many many future visits - really psyched to check out the other quarries in the woods and check out the lines that need cleaning..

PS - if you have a Sat Nav, the postcode for the car park is WA6 9AQ.

Here are a few examples of the problems we did:

(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4760647723_c73baeb031_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4761282050_d44b68512f_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4120/4761287654_cb9710aa57_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/4760647187_190b7795f0_b.jpg)

Link (http://cid-c0cc52bfca41ade1.office.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Climbing/Harmer^4s%20Wood) to the full size versions plus a few more (different photos, same problems)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: GCW on July 04, 2010, 07:47:55 pm
it will be added to the poi's so don't lie awake at night worrying about it  ;)

Phew, thank goodness for that.
I fear I will not be able to get there tomorrow, although I'd be keen for a visit at some point.  Is there a topo, or is it more the adventure for this venue?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2010, 09:11:08 pm
it will be added to the poi's so don't lie awake at night worrying about it  ;)

Phew, thank goodness for that.
I fear I will not be able to get there tomorrow, although I'd be keen for a visit at some point.  Is there a topo, or is it more the adventure for this venue?

No Topo AFAIK - But the lines/problems were all pretty easy to spot...  There were a couple of fantastic technical wall/steep slab problems that I got part way up... Theres also a complete traverse that we didnt try but looked good... (v. thin in places).

This problem was ace - pulling up the walls on mono's... I want to come back and have another go on this beauty...

(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_B3qgMe1HpPI/TDDs7ncOtsI/AAAAAAAABIA/tculQ-NvQPk/s512/DSC_0603.JPG)

Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Richie Crouch on July 04, 2010, 10:24:35 pm
That last one is harmadillo I think? Connect 3 mono's to 2 disappointing crimps then a direct slap up to a better hold at the top (off some smears). Did you do the amazing rib climb just to the left of said problem?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on July 04, 2010, 10:29:31 pm
That last one is harmadillo I think? Connect 3 mono's to 2 disappointing crimps then a direct slap up to a better hold at the top (off some smears). Did you do the amazing rib climb just to the left of said problem?

That sounds like it. I got to find out how crap the crimps were just the once! - and didnt get as far as sizing up the next move. The move after the one in the pic was great bringing the LF up to mono below my LH then reaching uppppp.... After a few go's my fingers were starting to complain from the mono treatment and I moved on! I'm guessing the move up from the crimps is the crux... (any idea on grade?). The rib looked ace - I didnt try it as I hogged that mono problem for a while and wanted to try something easier around the corner... yes - rib looked like a mix of the odd mono, small crimps and laying off the rib...
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Richie Crouch on July 04, 2010, 11:16:35 pm
Me and Ben thought about 7a+ for the mono line (the hard bit is defo the last 2 moves). The rib to the left is amazing and around 6b+ maybe. The lefthand line up the wall to your right in the same photo is also great - I think it is called Queen of Hearts and 6c but could be wrong! Hard move to get a left foot up and steady to the top.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 05, 2010, 07:57:52 am
Me and Ben thought about 7a+ for the mono line (the hard bit is defo the last 2 moves). The rib to the left is amazing and around 6b+ maybe. The lefthand line up the wall to your right in the same photo is also great - I think it is called Queen of Hearts and 6c but could be wrong! Hard move to get a left foot up and steady to the top.

All correct, well done and full marks Rich.

I've got some more photos that I'll get round to posting at some point.  If people want a tour do feel free to pm me.  Although I can't get out there at the drop of the hat, it isn't far from my work and I often get down there on Tuesday or Thursday evenings.  There isn't a topo available at the moment, but it will be detailed in the bmc guide when it's published (sometime in the next few centuries...).

PS:  Nice one Tris and Tom for getting there, its great to see people visiting.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: SA Chris on July 05, 2010, 09:44:09 am
Are ther problems called MC Harmer and Stop, Harmer Time yet?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: GCW on July 05, 2010, 09:47:55 am
Or Harmer Chameleon, Self Harmer etc

What's the place like for drying after rain?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Probes on July 05, 2010, 10:02:44 am
Or Harmer Chameleon, Self Harmer etc

What's the place like for drying after rain?

One Harmer ? :-\
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: jon bassindale on July 05, 2010, 10:48:18 am
liquid harmber, harmeroids, knights in shining harmer, harmer fool for love....... harmer getting my coat now.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Tris on July 05, 2010, 10:53:51 am
What's the place like for drying after rain?
While we were there we got chatting to a guy who says he visits regularly - he said it's shit after rain, reckoned you needed at least 2 days of drying as the seepage was really bad?? He also said it was pretty much unusable in the winter  :shrug:

Maybe Ben/Richie/Andy can confirm this?

It is obviously a damn good choice in the heat of the summer, what with the abundance of shade etc...
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 05, 2010, 12:26:31 pm
Pretty much spot on re: dampness.  Its shrugging of moderate amounts of rain at the moment, mainly because its been dry for so long, but in the winter it stays damp for long periods of time.  Having said that, during the cold spell of January/February this year it was in reasonable condition and I got a fair bit done there after work with a headtorch.  Obviously the warmer it is, the worse the friction is and like at Pex, the best conditions for pulling/smearing are in the colder months.  But it's still just about ok at the moment, just expect to find it a bit like hard work on the smaller holds.

Good work everybody on the puns.  I just wish there were enough lines left that needed naming. 
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Jim on July 05, 2010, 12:40:32 pm
what left to go at or is that top secret?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 05, 2010, 12:54:34 pm
There's plenty of blank wall left (and I mean blank).  Generally quite high and you'll need a bit of luck or a microscope to find some holds, then a bit of time to clean what holds you can find.

There is one clean project that Andy has put a lot of time into cleaning so I think we should give him some more time to get it done.  However I think he'll need it to cool down a bit before he tries it again.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: andy popp on July 05, 2010, 02:24:07 pm
what left to go at or is that top secret?

At the back there is an obvious square black wall recessed between two corners. I cleaned a line up the right hand side of this, people are very welcome to try this - it will be good and hard. To the right is an arete and then another blank and so far unclimbed wall, I've cleaned a line starting just right of the arete and then trending up right a little into the centre of the wall to a dugout top out. Its pretty obvious. I would appreciate (but obviously realize I can't demand/request) a little time to try this; it took a fair bit of cleaning, then went very hot and now I've buggered one of my knees - hence I've been a little frustrated in getting on it (this is the one Ben mentions, its going to be very good, hence why I'd like to try it). Right side of this wall might have holds, I haven't abbed it yet and there might be other ways up the recessed wall at the back. There are several cleaned lines waiting in the little quarry; the wall L of the obvious big arete (I cleaned this but then did knee in). Right of the arete is a dirty corner and immediately out of this corner is the brilliant start of one of my problems, 'The Fourth Night of My Drinking' V5/6, up small pockets and slots to get obvious deep pocket with right hand, the problem then trends right into the adjacent problem, Clarity V4. The obvious direct from the deep pocket is up for grabs. There is a horrible project off an obvious small pocket at the right hand of the small quarry.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: andy popp on July 05, 2010, 02:43:39 pm
Oh yeah, really glad everyone is enjoying it.

Re: the puns there is a Self-Harmer but none of the other.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on July 05, 2010, 03:26:13 pm
Hi Ben, might try and get there for Thursday eve (6ish) if you're about - Tris interested? (PM me if so). T
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Jim on July 05, 2010, 06:32:53 pm
what left to go at or is that top secret?

At the back there is an obvious square black wall recessed between two corners. I cleaned a line up the right hand side of this, people are very welcome to try this - it will be good and hard. To the right is an arete and then another blank and so far unclimbed wall, I've cleaned a line starting just right of the arete and then trending up right a little into the centre of the wall to a dugout top out. Its pretty obvious. I would appreciate (but obviously realize I can't demand/request) a little time to try this; it took a fair bit of cleaning, then went very hot and now I've buggered one of my knees - hence I've been a little frustrated in getting on it (this is the one Ben mentions, its going to be very good, hence why I'd like to try it). Right side of this wall might have holds, I haven't abbed it yet and there might be other ways up the recessed wall at the back. There are several cleaned lines waiting in the little quarry; the wall L of the obvious big arete (I cleaned this but then did knee in). Right of the arete is a dirty corner and immediately out of this corner is the brilliant start of one of my problems, 'The Fourth Night of My Drinking' V5/6, up small pockets and slots to get obvious deep pocket with right hand, the problem then trends right into the adjacent problem, Clarity V4. The obvious direct from the deep pocket is up for grabs. There is a horrible project off an obvious small pocket at the right hand of the small quarry.
nice one andy, I can't promise I will remember all this and seeing as there isn't a topo we will just try and climb everything we can, however I am pretty confident we won't be able to do your project if we do try it
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: mrjonathanr on July 05, 2010, 08:53:09 pm
I was getting irritated by the puns but now I realise it's all Harmless Fun.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Jim on July 05, 2010, 11:01:56 pm
really good venue. will be going back again soon
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 06, 2010, 09:30:59 am
Nice one, let me know when you can get back and I'll try to meet you.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on July 07, 2010, 10:05:22 am
Me & Tris are planning to be there from 6 ish on thurs weather permitting if anyone else is interested/about.
T
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 07, 2010, 12:14:27 pm
Damn, meant to pm Tris about this as he mailed me but I can't get on my pm's at work at the moment (damned web filtering).  Doubt that I'll be able to make it sadly, which is annoying because I really want to show people around the place.  If anything changes and I can get there I'll see you around six, but I doubt it.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 12, 2010, 10:01:51 am
Had a great couple of hours here yesterday - great little venue. Boysen turned up, said he'd been going for forty years. So much for a new crag - looking foward to the cheshire guide for more unsung gems.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Falling Down on July 12, 2010, 10:53:36 am
Is this the famed 'Boysen's secret sandstone crag' ? or are there more? (I heard Altrincham...)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Tris on July 12, 2010, 11:03:40 am
I live in Altrincham and I am still searching for this mystery venue  :(
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 12, 2010, 11:05:45 am
I don't think so. I think the secret crag is nearer Manchester, and is secret due to being very fragile. Harmer's is pretty solid for sandstone.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 13, 2010, 09:50:41 am
Had a great couple of hours here yesterday - great little venue. Boysen turned up, said he'd been going for forty years. So much for a new crag - looking foward to the cheshire guide for more unsung gems.

Glad to hear you liked it.  Did you look at the little quarry too? 

Naturally Martin, Tom, no doubt Rab and a whole host of older Chester climbers have been going there for years (I keep meeting "new" people there), its just they wouldn't let anyone into their secret.  And when interested folk did ask about the place (and not just to Martin and Tom), they were usually given very little information - giving the quarry a place in local climbing folklore.  However, Martin and Tom have now been very open and even given Andy and I the names of the stuff that they'd climbed before we got involved. 

Hopefully now it can get the traffic it deserves since the trust that own the wood are keen to see the place used by different user groups.  I doubt it'll ever be mega popular but more traffic will keep it cleaner and hopefully in condition for more of the year.  There is plenty of quality to rival other local venues, in a setting that's really quite beautiful.

Is this the famed 'Boysen's secret sandstone crag' ? or are there more? (I heard Altrincham...)

No, definitely not.  I haven't seen this secret crag and had the shut down when asking about it, but I know someone who's been there and they said pretty much what JB said earlier (i.e. it's near Altrincham and very fragile).
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 13, 2010, 09:59:00 am
Oh and here's a few more photos.  Can't seem to link to larger size photos in flickr so apologies for the rather small size. 

Check out that beautiful rib in the second shot.  Adam, I presume you did that one when you visited?
 
(http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1097/4721847528_b1ea5ca660_m.jpg)    (http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1320/4721849640_442c7019bb_m.jpg)   (http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1323/4721198071_7286c2c05c_m.jpg)    (http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1316/4721193179_4c654fc526_m.jpg)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 13, 2010, 10:27:12 am
You really think its been kept a secret? I'd think its more a case that the area is a bit of a backwater, there hasn't been a guidebook for years, the Altrincham All-stars etc come from a generation which didn't bother putting bouldering in guides etc etc. Not so long ago this would have been regarded as a really minor venue. Plus I imagine there is a bit of a gap between the locals with all the knowledge and the current boulderers. Have you had much contact with the Vags, I daresay their tuesday night scenes would have passed here?

Yeah that rib is great, last move was a bit spicy without a chalkbag! Did a couple of hardish lines (7a+ ish) - the wall bounding the left of the long wall with the crack, and the line at the right end of the long wall (think Crouch is on it in a pic higher up).

We'd didn't go in the other quarry, Martin said it was more of a top-roping venue. He also pointed us at a line which he'd top-roped in the past, which looked to be the right-hand of Andy's projects.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 13, 2010, 12:27:31 pm
Sorry, I suppose I shouldn't have suggested it had been kept a massive secret, but there was a definite reticence to tell people what had and hadn't been climbed.  I've been told by people that it shouldn't be in a guide and that the problems shouldn't have names or grades.  As you say though, this is probably due to cultural/generational/outlook differences.

Yes, I've spoken to and climbed at Harmer's with many many people, including of course plenty of Vags members.  They did climb many of the lines years ago (on Tuesday nights as you say), along with Martin and Tom et al.  Certainly I wouldn't suggest that many of the lines there are new lines, other than about half a dozen of the harder things that Andy and I have climbed (and cleaned).  Speaking to Martin, Tom, everyone and their dogs has given us a good idea of what had been climbed in the past.

I think the lines you talk about are the wonderful Babyblock (on the rh end of the curved wall, via a lovely left hand pinch, about 7a+/b) and just left of that curved wall, High Heaven (with a harsh start to press down a two finger pocket and reach miles to a little edge, about 7a?). 
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 13, 2010, 12:50:21 pm
Quote
I've been told by people that it shouldn't be in a guide and that the problems shouldn't have names or grades

That's fair enough - a similar ethic exists for the Grinah Stones. I'm a big fan of leaving the odd venue undocumented so everyone gets to discover it afresh.

Quote
a definite reticence to tell people what had and hadn't been climbed

I'd guess this would be at least in part due to no one knowing! With the talent that will have visited over the years, its probably safer to assume everything has been done before, at least on top-rope. I guess suddenly naming everything could come across a bit presumptuous to anyone who's been going a while. Its definitely a venue that doesn't need a guidebook - lines are obvious - but it would be daft to do a cheshire guide without it.

Quote
I think the lines you talk about are the wonderful Babyblock (on the rh end of the curved wall, via a lovely left hand pinch, about 7a+/b) and just left of that curved wall, High Heaven (with a harsh start to press down a two finger pocket and reach miles to a little edge, about 7a?). 

Yep, they sound spot on.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 13, 2010, 02:07:40 pm
I guess suddenly naming everything could come across a bit presumptuous to anyone who's been going a while.

True. 

That's fair enough - a similar ethic exists for the Grinah Stones. I'm a big fan of leaving the odd venue undocumented so everyone gets to discover it afresh.

Again, true.  However I get a bit annoyed at people deliberately not telling other people about particular crags just so that they can keep their own little spot to themselves - not that I'm suggesting people have done this about Harmer's or that we shouldn't keep certain venues low key for access or ecological reasons.

Anyway, thanks for your feedback and sound reasoning.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Tris on July 13, 2010, 02:17:21 pm
However I get a bit annoyed at people deliberately not telling other people about particular crags just so that they can keep their own little spot to themselves

Tell me about it, I would love to be let into the secret of the Altrincham training venue. OK I don't climb 8A but I have been climbing for over 20 years, so am very unlikely to go damaging some piece of fragile rock that is right on my doorstep ffs... what do you have to do to gain this information  :shrug:

I have literally spent days searching the countryside round Altrincham for it! 
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 13, 2010, 04:28:45 pm
Dunno if the All-stars tuesday night scene is still going, but that's where I'd start. I daresay someone (Martin probably) found the place for themselves originally, so it can't be impossible. Have you looked round Lymm?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Tris on July 13, 2010, 04:43:12 pm
I've been to the dam but not explored too much in that area?
I have also visited most of the sandstone bridges in the area as I saw in a UKC thread that someone had a photo of Boysen training on a bridge. Have found some funky bridges but nothing much good for climbing on :)

There's an ok traversy thing on a wall near the canal at Dunham Massey, but not very hard.

Also some green covered walls near the NT mill in Styal.. bit dark and slimy though...
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 13, 2010, 05:01:53 pm
Quote
There's an ok traversy thing on a wall near the canal at Dunham Massey, but not very hard.

Could be that - I don't think its that good a venue. The legend is more to do with the secrecy.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Tris on July 13, 2010, 05:31:20 pm
Sorry - it's a man made wall (bricks/mortar etc) and is complete total bobbins really... you'd have more fun on the outside of your house! I only mentioned it as there ain't a lot of climbable places in Alty!

I have spotted some more potential places using Google Earth so will continue the search   ;D
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Ally Smith on July 13, 2010, 05:48:22 pm
Did both of these last nigt on my first visit. I was very impressed, especially with Babyblock.


I think the lines you talk about are the wonderful Babyblock (on the rh end of the curved wall, via a lovely left hand pinch, about 7a+/b) and just left of that curved wall, High Heaven (with a harsh start to press down a two finger pocket and reach miles to a little edge, about 7a?).

I intially tried the 6b+ rib thing (in one of the photos above) with blinkers on and thought it harder than the wall with monos next to it! Use everything and it's a peach too.

Has anyone done the full traverse?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Falling Down on July 13, 2010, 05:56:19 pm
I'm a big fan of leaving the odd venue undocumented so everyone gets to discover it afresh.

That's what GME is trying to describe on t'other thread.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 13, 2010, 06:06:48 pm
He may be 'trying' to, but its not the impression he gives out. I don't mean keeping secrets, I just mean no problem names or descriptions. By all means put them in guides, on the net, talk them up all you like, just have the crag itself an antidote to the ticklists that folk treat crags as nowadays.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Jim on July 13, 2010, 10:26:23 pm
you could always not look at a guide book next time you venture beyond burbage west word  ;D
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 14, 2010, 07:55:21 am
Did both of these last nigt on my first visit. I was very impressed, especially with Babyblock.

I intially tried the 6b+ rib thing (in one of the photos above) with blinkers on and thought it harder than the wall with monos next to it! Use everything and it's a peach too.

Has anyone done the full traverse?

Good stuff.  Did you do the wall with the monos just right of the rib?  Its got a big move leaving the last mono to tiny crimps then a slap to the top of the wall.

The traverse was jokingly given V4 by someone.  It's not.  I'm sure someone with time on their hands has done it but no-one has owned up to it yet (I know that Mr Popp has done bits of it and rated it).  I keep meaning to try it.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: youngy on July 15, 2010, 08:03:22 pm
Ahh Ben im so psyched to get here when my finger is not so injured!!
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Jim on July 15, 2010, 09:01:08 pm
this place is not so good when your recovering from finger injuries
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Ally Smith on July 15, 2010, 09:03:53 pm


Good stuff.  Did you do the wall with the monos just right of the rib?  Its got a big move leaving the last mono to tiny crimps then a slap to the top of the wall.


Yep, did that one too. Doesn't have to be a big move if you turn the 2nd to last mono into an undercut! Might scrape 7A?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on July 15, 2010, 09:05:19 pm
Did both of these last nigt on my first visit. I was very impressed, especially with Babyblock.

I intially tried the 6b+ rib thing (in one of the photos above) with blinkers on and thought it harder than the wall with monos next to it! Use everything and it's a peach too.

Has anyone done the full traverse?

Good stuff.  Did you do the wall with the monos just right of the rib?  Its got a big move leaving the last mono to tiny crimps then a slap to the top of the wall.

The traverse was jokingly given V4 by someone.  It's not.  I'm sure someone with time on their hands has done it but no-one has owned up to it yet (I know that Mr Popp has done bits of it and rated it).  I keep meaning to try it.

Is Babybloc the one in pic #4  - hard thin moves up the RH edge of the curved wall just past the first arete on the right?

Also, has anyone got the rib done without the mono's to the right? I got about 1/2 way up (LF in the big slot) before it all got really really thin! The wall with the mono's on the right of the rib is ace - I can get to getting the right one of the tiny two crimps - but cant quite reach the LH one which looks better - so suspect I'll need to bring my RF up to get the height... its quite spicy as you're a fair way up there!
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Jim on July 15, 2010, 09:24:38 pm


Good stuff.  Did you do the wall with the monos just right of the rib?  Its got a big move leaving the last mono to tiny crimps then a slap to the top of the wall.


Yep, did that one too. Doesn't have to be a big move if you turn the 2nd to last mono into an undercut! Might scrape 7A?
does this finish as for the rib?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: andy popp on July 16, 2010, 05:48:43 am
Yes, same finishing holds.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 16, 2010, 08:10:07 am


Good stuff.  Did you do the wall with the monos just right of the rib?  Its got a big move leaving the last mono to tiny crimps then a slap to the top of the wall.


Yep, did that one too. Doesn't have to be a big move if you turn the 2nd to last mono into an undercut! Might scrape 7A?
does this finish as for the rib?

Er, no it doesn't.  It gets two tiny crimps and then pops to the top, right of where the rib finishes. 

Ally - I agree re: turning the last mono into an undercut - a cool move.  I felt it was at least 7a, maybe 7a+ and I know that other people felt 7a+ was a worthy grade if you can't reach the top from the crimps and need to slap.  However, much of the difficulty probably comes from making a slap at that height.  F*ck it, I'll give it 6b+   ;)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Will Hunt on July 25, 2010, 11:29:59 pm
As per a few of the PMs I've sent I'm dead keen to get here. I've got a bit of time in Widnes before I go back to Leeds. Problem is I haven't got a car so would have to either cadge a lift or get the bus to Runcorn and then cadge from there.
Any volunteers fancy giving me a wee tour?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Ally Smith on July 26, 2010, 09:23:32 am
I had a quick visit yesterday morning. Much of the crag is damp and greasy, only a few problems are dry, though someone has obviously tried to take care of this with VERY excessive chalk use, i.e. wack your chalk-ball at every hold before using. I didn't have a brush with me so couldn't clean up that mess (or my own tick marks  :guilty:)

I think with todays minging misty weather it'll be a fair while until it's dry again?
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 26, 2010, 10:12:41 am
If people climb here when its damp it WILL get trashed. Sandstone loses all its strength when even slightly wet. If its not bone dry go elsewhere.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Will Hunt on July 26, 2010, 06:25:36 pm
mmm. I wouldn't want to damage the rock so given the weather forecast for the next week I might bail back to Leeds  ::)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 27, 2010, 10:13:33 am
I had a quick visit yesterday morning. Much of the crag is damp and greasy, only a few problems are dry, though someone has obviously tried to take care of this with VERY excessive chalk use, i.e. wack your chalk-ball at every hold before using. I didn't have a brush with me so couldn't clean up that mess (or my own tick marks  :guilty:)

I think with todays minging misty weather it'll be a fair while until it's dry again?

Nice one, that saves me popping over to check its condition.  I expect it will need 3-4 days of dry weather to get sorted properly again.  Given the warmth as well, I'm going to stay away until September when we "should" get some dry weather and better conditions. 

This habit of whacking chalkballs against the rock and massively excessive chalking of holds has become very noticable at Pex over the last year.  Catalepsy is often a complete state, with 10 or more tick marks for feet alone.  Much of the Green Wall traverse sometimes looks like someone has tried to make it look like a climbing wall, the holds are so obvious with big circles drawn around the them!  I don't know how people can walk away from a problem leaving it in that kind of state.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: GCW on July 27, 2010, 10:18:38 am
It's not limited to Pex, Brownstones has become a haven for the phantom chalkball poffer.  Total mess the other day  :furious:

Never seen anyone doing it though.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on July 27, 2010, 10:23:28 am
I suspect because it gets done in an attempt to dry out damp holds, when no sensible climber would be at the crag.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 27, 2010, 10:24:10 am
Me neither.  Spooky huh?  Actually I do have a suspect for the crime of drawing circles around the holds.  I'm waiting for him to add numbers or "left and right" then I'll be able to nail him via his handwriting...  [insert Sherlock Holmes emoticon]
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: GCW on July 27, 2010, 10:31:02 am
I hear what you're saying JB, but I've noticed the same thing even after days of dry weather.  I don't know what use to anyone the chalk poffs are, other than to make obvious holds harder to find under a ton of chalk.

Ben:
(http://smileydesign.net/smileys/cost13.gif)     (http://fc08.deviantart.net/fs27/f/2008/035/4/6/Emoticons_02___Sherlock_Holmes_by_Kopanitsak_C.gif)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: BenF on July 27, 2010, 10:47:10 am
I hear what you're saying JB, but I've noticed the same thing even after days of dry weather.

Sadly, that is my experience too. 

Ben:
(http://smileydesign.net/smileys/cost13.gif)     (http://fc08.deviantart.net/fs27/f/2008/035/4/6/Emoticons_02___Sherlock_Holmes_by_Kopanitsak_C.gif)

Gareth:   :bow:
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: JamieG on August 10, 2010, 03:52:28 pm
Sorry if this is a puntering question but is it still a bad idea to head to the sandstone at the moment? I was hoping to check it out at some point, but will avoid if it is still going to be damp. I wasn't sure what the weather had been like in the area. Possibly not great. Cheers.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 10, 2010, 03:59:14 pm
I doubt there is any seepage as such, but the surface of the rock will absorb and hold water. Depending on the wind etc that could go in a couple of hours or linger for days. If it hasn't rained too much in the last few days you should be fine. As with many venues, you might get problems with condensation even if it hasn't rained, but the only thing to do is go and have a look.
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on August 10, 2010, 04:08:23 pm
I was thinking of heading over to have a look tomorrow - late morn - but may have other plans/not sure etc... its rained here in Manc quite a bit yesterday but today is breezy.. though there are alot of trees in the quarry - so its quite sheltered/keeps higher humidity etc....
If I go, I'll post up here....
T
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: Tris on August 10, 2010, 05:30:46 pm
Just got a text from tomtom - he is at Harmer's now. He says it's dry, not 100% bone dry but good enough...
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: tomtom on August 10, 2010, 07:26:54 pm
Just got a text from tomtom - he is at Harmer's now. He says it's dry, not 100% bone dry but good enough...

Cheers Tris - to re-iterate, its in fine condition. A little damp in places and a touch greener than my last visit but all the main walls/problems are fine. A few insects about and the trees were raining seeds of some type which you had to blow out of some holds but no probs (it is outdoors after all!)
Title: Re: Harmer's Wood
Post by: JamieG on August 10, 2010, 09:00:44 pm
Excellent news. Cheers guys. I'll get down their pronto!
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