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the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Adam Lincoln on January 15, 2004, 10:38:09 am

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 15, 2004, 10:38:09 am

Anyone done it?

I seem to remember a video somewhere...

Beta?

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: Bubba on January 15, 2004, 10:39:55 am

Isn't it on the Dave Graham vid from climbXmedia?

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 15, 2004, 10:40:52 am

Quote from: "Bubba"

Isn't it on the Dave Graham vid from climbXmedia?

Hmm, was it small things or something?

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: dave on January 15, 2004, 10:42:35 am

yeah its on that 4 from font vid, and also on bleau and tour do blocs. think the sequence is pretty obvious.

if you're gonna try i i suggest you get your fingernails up to scratch.

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 15, 2004, 10:46:08 am

Quote from: "dave"

yeah its on that 4 from font vid, and also on bleau and tour do blocs. think the sequence is pretty obvious.

if you're gonna try i i suggest you get your fingernails up to scratch.

Yup, growing them at the moment ;-)

Do you come in from the right slightly, as the direct is harder isnt it?

I love slabs :-)

Anyway, cant be much harder then Science Friction  :roll:

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: dave on January 15, 2004, 10:51:02 am

its there a big obvious slopey pinch/undercut thing that you start on? i think its basically straight up from there.

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 15, 2004, 10:55:23 am

Quote from: "dave"

yeah its on that 4 from font vid, and also on bleau and tour do blocs. think the sequence is pretty obvious.

if you're gonna try i i suggest you get your fingernails up to scratch.

Here, for those interested

ftp://153.19.47.73/pub/filmy/fourfromfont.mov

Cheers G

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: unclesomebody on January 20, 2004, 08:41:48 pm

you don't want to be growing your nails adam!  You want them short but mega tough.  I was with a friend who was on it, got up to the last 2 moves but just couldn't manage it.  Even pulling on from that undercut isn't easy, and it really helps if you're flexible!

Title: Duel - Font
Post by: Adam Lincoln on January 21, 2004, 09:40:39 am

Quote from: "unclesomebody"

you don't want to be growing your nails adam!  You want them short but mega tough.  I was with a friend who was on it, got up to the last 2 moves but just couldn't manage it.  Even pulling on from that undercut isn't easy, and it really helps if you're flexible!

Yeah, didnt get on it. Was dillusioned that i might infact be able to do it! Just getting on 7a slabs are hard enough! And i thought i was good at em!

 :roll: