UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => the blog pile => Topic started by: comPiler on June 15, 2010, 07:10:24 pm
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Be like Jerry (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/06/be-like-jerry.html)
24 June 2009, 10:27 pm
I was surfing a wave these last few months - a wave of low motivation. Being the somewhat fickle character that we can all be at times, this all changed when I read Jerry's book. I realised that on an altogether different level, I have been suffering from similar self belief problems that he encountered in the early days of competing. Since emulating his tactics, I'm finding myself feeling every atom of wood/resin or in tonight's case , metal under my fingertips. A surge of motivation has begun to coarse through my veins once more.
Currently, I have a goal in my head that would once have appeared perhaps too grandiose for me to entertain. Now that I have seen what I must do, I no longer have been wasting time wondering and instead spend my time doing. Tonight, a late call to Pemb heralded a cancelled training session but my motivation led me to my fathers garage where the only edge to hang from was a small rounded metal one. I can't believe just how perfect a training hold this actually was and I devised a toe -on, toe-off deadhang session stepping between a bandsaw and a lathe every 5 seconds. Where there is a will to train, there is indeed a way.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Calm down (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/07/calm-down.html)
6 July 2009, 1:18 pm
I need to calm down, calm the whole deal right down. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place at the moment and living with one's parents at this age no matter how temporary the whole situation might (supposed to) be is hard.It's nice spending intermittent periods at home but also obviously pretty stressful given our contrasting lifestyles. Still, this is part of the bigger plan and the eye must remain on the finish line and an optimistic outlook that society will soon once again need architects. I say this given a seemingly weekly update from the Royal Institute of British Architects under email headings such as "Apply for your practice crisis pack". They're trying quite clearly to convey a positive spirit but it's hard ignoring the fact that so few of Liverpool's construction sites are unpopulated at present. Let's also not forget that buildings don't spring up overnight. The whole procurement process is a long, contrived and complicated affair. Perhaps then in this light the recession might force a more fast tracked procurement method that isn't so bound up in red tape and conflated legislation? It'll be interesting to see.
For the past few weeks, labouring has been tiding me over for a bit of cash towards the 3,000 pound fees target and so far I'm just shy of 300 pound. If this trajectory were to continue, I might stand to make half of that which is a slight concern but I'm confident that hard work will seal the deal. It always feels a bit strange going from working so intensively in an academic environment to scrounging around for shitty admin jobs.
I have to admit that although it's been an intense experience and genuinely back breaking work what with the oversize concrete blocks the architect has specified, I've developed some useful muscle groups and also received a lot more sunlight hours than I would normally. Similarly, I'm grateful of the work whilst many around me struggle to find even the most menial casual work. Mal (my boss and family friend) has mentioned a few times that I can work on future jobs with his company which as well as being a vital source of income is also good experience at the other end of the construction process.
Tuesday past, I was able to enjoy a day off and a day out to Parisella's with Ricardo, Smooth and O. It'd been a year since I'd last been on the Orme and it certainly felt like it. I managed to get to the usual end point on RA which I was quite pleased with and was comforted to see I had at least retained some form of base level for outdoor climbing. Very keen to not veer from the path of motivation this time and get it done so I can move onto something else in there. Was super impressed with Ricardo's form and even more so with his ease in dealing with the Pit of Hell start in the most disgusting conditions. O and Pete finally decided to embark upon their RA campaign and were doing well stringing together much of it despite humidity.
There's a cave trip tomorrow but I need to work through until Saturday for the 4 parties in one night party. Two friends have emptied their uber stylish dockland apartment and moved into a new abode. With another week's lease still on the property, this affords us a venue for the Mumu Moon Harbour pre pre-party. Then on to Peacock pre-party before going to the party before the after-party in what has to be one of the biggest and best new abodes in Aigburth. I'm psyched.
Lastly an apology to anybody losing minutes of their lives reading this. I'm aware that I very rarely link to any photos or video. This is due to the medieval ibook being unable to process more than the most basic CPU operations. I'd also like to apologise for the abysmal standard of writing and content. Ordinarily, I enjoy writing and am fairly satisfied with it but looking back through some recent posts, I'm wondering if it's worth continuing to write if it stays like this. I suppose there's not really anything of interest even to myself in my head at present. In any case, it's just some words on a page that seem to come out.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Back two bustin, I ain't got time for dustin (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/07/back-two-bustin-i-aint-got-time-for.html)
7 July 2009, 7:13 pm
Thankfully weather conditions have mellowed out over the last two days and putting the roof on has been a relatively simple task in comparison to lifting thousands of blocks in high 20 degree heat. Realised I've learnt so much doing the job so far and know it's definitely going to help come returning to the drawing board/CAD suite. Incidentally that reminds me to pull my finger out and carry on learning AutoCad.
Last week, Pemb and I decided we might as well begin to train in his garage. Granted it has no beastmaker (yet) but he has the largest available Metolius simulator. It's nicely located on a concrete lintel and is great for doing one arm work as you can pull above the height of the holds without any restrictive problems. James showed me the numbers on the workout Neil Gresham did for him last week and I used this loosely to evolve a current training plan. He reckoned you could do this pretty much most days and takes 20 mins at max. Last nights session was probably closer to an hour and a half but expanded upon a few of the basic exercises. I read something someone wrote on UKB recently about one arm deadhanging technique and decided it's long overdue that I learn this important training exercise. After a few recent fingerboard sessions, I've finally begun to master the art and clocked a solid second on the smallest edge of the simulator. Was quite pleased with this as I was exhausted prior to commencing the session and now I've got the technique dialled, one second ought rapidly to become 10 seconds. In theory.
Last year at Lore's I proposed a sketch of what is my conception of the uber fingerboard. It included a set of fishing scales attached to a multi-knotted sling which would allow for a greater empirical understanding of the exact forces at a given time needed for assistance with one armers and one arm deadhangs. After trialling this last night, it seems to provide a useful indication within the 'peak' period of the hang as to the poundage needed to assist in the hang. You can soon tell when failure is occurring due to the wavering needle and I think it's pretty useful to jot down the ballpark poundage required for future reference. I'm very fond of any scientific approach to training as it allows the closest possible means to monitor just how much you're improving rather than getting disillusioned with simply pinching a tape or knot without ever feeling like you can do it without. Am going to continue doing this and will feed back my findings..
Probably the highlight of the session (yes I'm thinking about compiling a highlights TV package) was the discovery that I can indeed deadhang the smallest pocket with my back two and can do this for a pretty long time. Never really tried before but intend to continue working these frequently overlooked little doigts.
Was nice to see Pemb looking solid and psyched. Nice also to hear he found the only physio in the world that seems to be able to keep him in one piece! Keep at it bestia.
If any dear home boys and home girls are reading and around this coming weekend with an inner techno beast to feed, then come stay in Liverpool for the 4 parties in 24 hours party. I urge you.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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de nada (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/07/de-nada.html)
8 July 2009, 10:30 pm
Attacked fingerboard with Pemb again tonight. Both felt pretty sore from Tuesday's extended session so limited tonight's session to just a fingerboard workout. The scales are proving useful and 25lb was my average required assistance to deadhang the small edge for circa 5 seconds comfortably. Managed to hang the slopers which are circa 45 degree flattys with the middle two fingers of each hand on the edge of the sloper. Felt pretty psyched about this as managed to do it for around 6 seconds. Loving the fingerboard cycle at the moment.
Just scheduled a cobble trip with Jim for next week so plan a light fingerboard session monday to rest nicely for the crush. No point even pretending I might be able to climb at the weekend.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Italians and the art of fun (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/07/italians-and-art-of-fun.html)
11 July 2009, 12:48 pm
There is nothing like a night out in Italy. Nothing. The night begins as you awake with that excited realisation as you rub your eyes that the evening will be long and every last sense stimulated. I remember distinctly the day of our night out to Tartana. There wasn't an alarm clock in sight, only the waft of fresh Italian espresso when the first of us would decide to roll out of bed. With electric energy levels, this was inevitably Ricardo. On most days he would be so excitable as to arise several hours prior to myself and bring the coffee to me in a bid to get me motivated for the events of the day ahead. Knowing the day would consist of a lengthy day out to Amiata and Sassofortino followed by an aperitivo and dinner then on to the club, his efforts weren't required on this particular occasion.
I could continue to reminisce to myself and regale every last atom of my memories of that day but what would be the point? I can remember it like a father remembers the day of his newborn's entry into the world. And who would derive as much pleasure from reading my memoirs on this particular matter as I would? Certifiably, nobody. I think I'd like to revel in the human capacity to selfishly 'own' memories and their associated sensory details and instead write no more only to say that Lore, I'll think today of that amazing day last year and you'll be on the terrace in spirit with us.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Where are all the latino's? (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/07/where-are-all-latinos.html)
13 July 2009, 9:37 pm
Saturday I decided the least I could do for myself was to pull down on the beastmaker for an hour and a half. Feeling good on this little mistress now and hope some transfer occurs when I manage a more prolonged stint in the outdoors. Managed 6 seconds on middle two on the 45 degree pockets and a pullup which wasn't too shoddy considering the rancid humidity. Still much room for improvement. If you climb at Awesome Walls regularly, you'll be well aware of the lack of either passive ventilation or air conditioning. I dearly wish they would sort something out as it feels like climbing in a steamroom. And I don't know any climbers that became any good who trained in a steamroom.
In vain, I tried to convince the team to do the whole 12 hours at the warehouse party but nobody was up for it. Probably wise actually. Good to see the girl's getting a psyche on for techno and they all lapped it up. Martinez played back to back with Nima Gorji and the atmosphere was the best yet. Tried it on with two Spanish girls but soon realised that on the continent when a girl talks to you it doesn't necessarily equate to wanting to be wed (plus I sussed out their boyfriends). They come from a culture of fun and are playful. This was quite nice actually. Nothing else to report. End of infoburst.
Keith, Lore. For you.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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The sum of the whole (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/07/sum-of-whole.html)
21 July 2009, 7:23 pm
If I were to describe each day, I would describe it as an existential nightmare. I really would. I'd like not to be misconstrued as suicidal when I say that; I say it because almost every hour of every day, I wonder if what I am doing is what I would like to be doing. If I don't like what I am doing, why should I continue to do it? Naturally , I appreciate that it is very difficult to convey one's worldview and that is precisely the frustration that I am encountering here in trying to say to you what as a variety of abstractions, I say to myself.
I lost my other grandmother last night and witnessed my father cry for the first time ever at her bedside. It's now not the first time I have witnessed someone close to me become painfully frail and perish slowly. I think, in her own way, she thought similarly to me. I can't remember an occassion in her life where she would fail to relish an opportunity to experience something new or somewhere new. This is how to live and it's really quite simple. Rest in peace.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Inexplicable (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/08/inexplicable.html)
6 August 2009, 11:56 am
Since I started labouring a few months back I've not really been able to train properly despite my best intentions. Have been partying a lot when not working but this is no bad thing. I hadn't climbed at the wall or indeed any wall in over two weeks but yesterday managed a new personal best on the beastmaker managing to deadhang the smallest pockets on my back two for 6 seconds. What surprised and shocked me was that a month or two ago when I was hitting the fingerboard hard I couldn't really get close to pulling on yet all of a sudden could do this comfortably for a decent amount of time. I find it hard to explain how incessant partying and labouring can have helped me remotely to do this.
Jim called at alpine o'clock this morning (OK 11.15) and despite feeling the dregs of a late night sesh has somehow persuaded me to head Wales bound with the fonz. Be nice to get out eh.
Nothing to report at the moment really other than some welling psyche for the next warehouse party with Sebo K and And.Id a week on saturday. One time.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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YYFY (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/08/yyfy.html)
18 August 2009, 3:34 pm
I've had a pleasant past fortnight. As bad weather forced a lethargic state of affairs in the labouring department my leisure time increased. This was nothing short of amazing and I'm happy to be poor for a relative short term. I've managed a couple of gorge sessions and been given some compulsory reading to do for the design studio. Initially at the commencement of the summer vacation I didn't need any stimulus to motivate me into reading upon on the subject but as time away from the studio has passed, I'm actually thankful for being given some mental fibre.
I'm pleased to report that after a fortnight of no climbing my fingers felt stronger than ever late last week. I've become amazed at how a prolonged rest after a month cycle of committed finger boarding has permitted the tendons to up the ante. My back two feel solid on small crimps and my mono strength has gone through the roof over the past 6 months. I'm fully aware that the past 12 months have fluctuated dramatically in terms of commitment to training and climbing with short cycles of intense focus followed by short cycles of partying. I made the decision last week that the 15th August MuMu warehouse party would be the last for a good while. I stand by this and have begun to think deeply about how the next 3 months of training will be tailored to some specific goals. As of today my diet has seen some drastic alterations; I'm at heart a healthy eater but must make some drastic omissions - that of beer and trans fats. I won't miss either in the least and have exhausted my interests in both over the summer months. In all fairness in fact, I eat hardly any fat but would still like to cut out the bad stuff and offer only goodness to my arteries.
I think one of the major problems with me gaining any specific focus with climbing over the past few months has been my time spent back on the Wirral peninsula. Very very few of my friends have remained here and so most of my days have been spent commuting to Liverpool and dossing at friends houses. Those spent at home have involved prolonged sessions of watching Fashion TV drinking various worldly coffees and listening to around 8 hours of new techno a day. It's a good combination but eventually the mind has come to crave substance.
The past five days have yielded some wonderful news for me. Since I am now 25, the levels of funding for university for which I am eligible have gone through the roof. Ambiguities about being able to afford the course have drifted into the void and I'm thankful at my persistence and belief that all would come good once I had passed through the first year of study. A chance call to the university funding department with regards to the level of one of my bursary's confirmed that as I am now assessed upon my own financial means, I will automatically receive the maximum amount of support unlike last year. It's been a struggle to subsist off very little but the goal posts move closer.
I sound like a scumbag but I can assure you I'm not. Time to achieve.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Revamp (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/08/revamp.html)
26 August 2009, 2:15 pm
An enjoyable week past. Went to a whisky tasting and fine dining evening at a friend's parents abode last weekend and discovered the joyous Lagavulin. This was a nice way to bid farewell to frequent drinking and I think I'd much rather spend my money on a nice bottle here and there than continue to line the pockets of Liverpool's many unscrupulous bar owners.
The week in summary; had a few more sessions down at Devil's gorge, caught a 6lb Thornback Ray at New Brighton, mixed some new records and am compiling a reading list for the year ahead. Fishing's been a nice cheap rest activity of late and it's nice to know self-caught fish cost nothing to eat!
Given the page a bit of a revamp so I can link to anything worth checking out on youtube. Best I can do for now given I may as well be accessing the internet on an Acorn. Some content to follow in a few weeks when new computer arrives.
Big up to Crouch for dispatching Never Ending Story pt 2 last week. Have to head out to Swiss with you at Christmas and get involved!
The Ray.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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fix (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/08/fix.html)
26 August 2009, 3:59 pm
Made a pigs ear by overwriting some code so header isn't as it should be. Will fix it soon.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Like a child at Christmas (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/08/like-child-at-christmas.html)
30 August 2009, 11:12 pm
Rather tragically I've been feeling like a young boy the night before Christmas about going back to university at the end of September. It really can't come soon enough. I desperately miss design and the antagonistic atmosphere of the crit. Nothing quite beats the feeling of having done your technical homework and rubbing the face of a critic into the dirt. It's especially nice having served a summer of labouring at the sharp end to inform my working knowledge.
I spent the weekend with two friends helping one of them move into his new abode in Sheffield. Friday night was spent in the worst club I have ever been to and will ever go to. I'm having trouble trying to remember the name of said putrid place but it'll come to me soon enough in a nightmare. After an inadequate lie in, Paulo and I decided to call in to Burbage North for a reunion. Conditions obviously weren't primo but it was nice to be out on the edge and take in some fresh air. A short while later we headed to meet Jim at Burbage South. Everyone was feeling knackered from either work or an uber late night and so the team plan to set some new 8c's didn't unfurl exactly as we had hoped. We all still had a laugh and at least felt like we were climbing 8c in the physical and atmospheric conditions given to us. It's ordinarily against my personal ethics to climb on gritstone but it's time to change that mindset and get involved.
Felt suitably spurred on by a day out yesterday and after a mandatory viewing of L'Etranger neccessary to dig out some type 2 muscle fibres, I enjoyed a bar session at Paulo's. Just need a few weeks of power training to catch up with last month's finger strength gains and it'll soon be time to flex a crush once more. Going to rest tomorrow and train tuesday.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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All I ever wanted, all I ever needed (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/09/all-i-ever-wanted-all-i-ever-needed.html)
2 September 2009, 1:22 pm
Was a means to train my fingers at home in the safe isolated sanctuary of the Wirral peninsula. As the only Beastmaker I have access to is some distance away in Liverpool, I was glad to see senor Doyle link to a picture of a simple solution for mobile training without needing to make any incisions in the parent's prized door jambs. A quick rummage in T Mills snr's workshop led me to all the materials one could need to make a simple similar fingerboard. Just need to stick these Gaskins photos above the big rung and I'll be back two bustin til the break of dawn.
Thanks Christoph.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Compartmentalisationarising (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/09/compartmentalisationarising.html)
4 September 2009, 10:26 am
Perhaps an American style term for "getting your life organised". Had my fill of constant partying now and it's time to focus on making some gains; be it reading new books, devoted evenings of training or actual boulder problems. After some time spent mounting the new board in the garage I took to it for it's inaugural session last night. Am sort of amazed how I can possibly be this ecstatic over a few pieces of wood and incisions into a piece of plywood but there we are. As much as I miss access to the Beastmaker, I've the added bonus of having a beam to suspend a bungee rig from at home and it's pleasing to see that two one armers on the top rung required only a smidgen of a first joint index assistance. It wasn't sadly the case for my left arm where I needed almost every finger to haul myself up. Good to have identified a weakspot but sad to have lost a lot. In any case, it seems like the pullup bar work is helping a lot.
Format for session one went thus:
- Three sets of warmup pulls and finger stretching
- 1 set of repeaters on big rung to get blood flowing
- Small rung hangs (6 x 8 secs)
- Assisted one arm deadhang on small individual edge (x 3 each arm)
- Assisted one armers on top rung (x 2 reps at good quality x 5 sets each arm)
- 3 sets warm down pulls (x 8)
Added a couple of symmetrical wooden pinches afterwards that are a bit more generous than the current 'bounty' pinches. Speaking of the bounty system; I've put two very thin 70 degree-angled pinches at each side of the board next to two very shallow monos routed into the ply. To hang off solely pinches or solely monos results in buying an MPC. The idea being I would like an Akai MPC so badly that I'll be forced to squeeze them into the next side of tomorrow. Sort of an inverted, more appealing version of the seminal glacial swim system Keith and James have been pioneering in Osterreich (braver men than I!). In the meantime the little bastards serve as useful assists on focussing the deadhang load through the other hand.
Going to venture out to a crag at random shortly. Bring the noise!
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Getting all Zanussi (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/09/getting-all-zanussi.html)
8 September 2009, 1:07 pm
After two days on training at home last Thurs/Fri, I gave the weekend over to socialising and a catchup with Donners. He's been training pretty hard of late and suggested we hit Rubicon up on sunday past. Alas conditions conspired against us and instead of a long haul futile journey, we spent the day relaxing and reclining at his gaff.
Had the third garage session yesterday and despite feeling a tiny bit rundown got through it ok; trying to focus on ironing out some of the inconsistencies with the left arm. Added a 4mm edge this morning and plan to incorporate this into an adapted training routine. Much like repeaters simulate the application of contact/pressure on a problem or route, I've figured out a useful means of training for some of the shorter harder sport routes I'd like to give a bash. The idea being a hang of 8 secs on the main rung, 3 secs rest, 8 secs 5mm rung, 3 secs rest.....
It should prove useful in quantifying gains throughout the month and when I can do this for a considerable period will start to introduce the 4mm edge into the equation.
Off out to the Lake District tomorrow to give a few new (to me) areas a go with Paul. Haven't been to Cumbria in a long time so am looking forward to it. Some pictures to follow.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Addendum (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/09/addendum.html)
8 September 2009, 2:15 pm
I walked away from writing the last post and felt something was missing.
I set this blog up purely as a cathartic means of voicing my aspirations, concerns, and priorities. I'm fairly sure the former and the latter are catered for and only until they become manifest will they readjust. But what of my concerns? Since I left a relationship which was just shy of 7 years, I've found it increasingly difficult to sustain climbing motivation in a consistent sense. Perhaps the stability and regularity of everything facilitated a 'schedule', I'm not too sure.
When I consider my climbing peers, where we were all at and what we wanted to achieve two years ago, many significant developments have occured for them. Around this time, the gulf between myself and an esteemed friend and climbing partner was not vast. As my motivation levels have undergone fits and starts, inevitably I have inflicted a sort of dual effect upon myself whereby because of this inconsistency I've left myself a giant hole to dig myself out of and I have become aware that the time that has elapsed will now delay some of the aspirations that I would have been seeing lately.
Thankfully, a recent month and a half of unerring dedication to the beastmaker propelled me past something of a plateau but again, I veered from the path of consistency to one of hedonism. That's not to say that this is a bad thing but I must realise that the one constant that's always been in my life has been that of climbing. Even despite a lengthy hiatus in my first undergraduate degree I still ventured out on occassion to the Yorkshire crags. The hiatus was in many ways very neccessary for me to focus upon my supreme goal at that time - to gain a first classification in my study. I acheived this and I immersed myself wholeheartedly in doing so but at the expense of acheiving any climbing goals. I stand by the priority I accorded here.
If I am to attempt a self critique, I can say that although outwardly I am confident, I've become aware over the past couple of years that inwardly, I can lack self-confidence in my ability and potential ability. It's sometimes too easy to say that ''I've left it too late'' or rather more simply "I'm not good at this and can't see myself becoming good". Whilst nothing I hear from anybody be it close climbing friends or a new acquaintance can shape my personal goal setting agendas, it's horrible to hear people say about a climber that "I don't think he's actually that good, he just trains a lot". What aural detritus! I should come to appreciate that the type of person that would make this comment will never fully satisfy what potential they might have. It is a comment that is simply too foolish to reflect even briefly upon.
So to vocalise to myself how I will (and I desperately want to) sustain my motivation for climbing whilst stood at the door of an imminent intense two years of academic study; I'll continue making and acheiving micro goals in the home setting away for the majority of time from the climbing wall. Unlike the public realm, I dictate the atmosphere that I wish to operate within and I control my session away from the external influences of children wandering freely underneath falling climbers. Here, I free myself from distractions and commuting times. I'm also freed from the pressures oft felt at the climbing wall by the gaze of others. I'd not be freely exposing to myself my concerns if I didn't include this particular issue.
In summary I hope that the hermitic (of course not totally) decision I've made rewards me with some goals that I now know can be acheived. I won't apologise as perhaps I ordinarily might for you reading this and know that the peers I value will be able to succintly translate what I am saying.
It's good to talk. To yourself.
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Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Rock boulderising (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/09/rock-boulderising.html)
14 September 2009, 11:55 am
Determined to escape the sole confines of the garage and touch rock, I've managed to hit three venues of altogether different rock types and climbing styles. The week before last was Burbage, the week past Kentmere and on Saturday past it was Rubicon.
Amazingly non of these venues feel like polished wooden crimps and they make huge demands of me such as that of using my feet to propel myself up or across a rock face. The fingerboard makes less demands and asks only that I contract my digits as hard as possible for a pre-determined period of time. He gives me wonderous gains and quick recourse to the in situ Gaskins action shots prevents any potential premature ejection from the rungs. Quite apparently however, he does not gift me in any way shape or form with the mandatory motor memories needed to ascend the rock.
Two days spent at Kentmere permitted a full tour of the venue without needing to thrash about before heading back down the M6. Conditions were less than ideal in the blazing sun but it really didn't matter on many of the wonderful easy problems. Quite simply it was nice to be on rock and in the most beautiful of surroundings. I warmed up on Badger Arete and then the more satisfying Badger Arete SDS. It's a sublime problem and I'd say is quite representative of the techniques that start to become requisite in climbing mid grade problems and includes a joyous pinch on the arete in the most perfect of positions. The Hole was a very basic and Swiss style pit problem involving some long pulls and satisfying moves. It was also thankfully very well shaded and the conditions in the pit were very reminiscent of the micro climates in Magic Wood. Naturally I made some non climbing friends that had come for the ride witness the sheer brutality of Shadow Play. They seemed about 15% in awe and the situation was likened to the journeys they used to go on with their mother to Roman forts and Wattle and Daub museums. Irrespectively, I took a minute out to imagine G on the send locking hideous micro flat pinches and edges doubtless without emitting a single sound. Truly mindblowing.
Saturday past, Matt and I awoke at 5.45 to head to Rubicon. I was approaching the route scene with an open mind and no expectations but Matt wanted to crush Zeke once more. He's been training hard and it's a real pleasure to watch someone who hasn't been on this route in over a decade take to it as if it was a trade route. Of course he had to familiarise himself with the holds and a very specific sequence and it was probably only a wrong hand movement that stood between him and the crush.
In the cold temps of the early morning it was a little difficult to awaken the body for both of us and it probably wasn't ideal that the warmup consisted of some brief jug pulling before hopping onto an 8b. After Matt had spent time ascertaining what he needed to do next session, I felt I should get a taste for what I would be in for should I commit to sport climbing.
To me, Peak limestone is a little like looking at a TV screen of that visually caustic white noise once found on 80s televisions. I can't differentiate one hold from the next let alone decide where I should put my body. From such little outdoor climbing of late my skin was horrendous on the sharp edges and incuts that feature on some of the holds but I still dogged through sections of the route and slowly began to see where I needed to be to link certain moves. It was perhaps slightly foolish for me to jump on this route but currently my fingers are at their strongest ever and no hold felt in any way bad apart from the most knacky pinch/crimp hold at half height. I walked away from the morning feeling a strong urge to rack up the route hours and work hard on improving the elementary skills required for hard redpointing. It's perhaps slightly foolish to have jumped in at the deep end grade wise but it really does feel like a simple matter of accruing a lot more rock hours and listening to Matt's voice of reason who clearly believes in my capabilities and is keen for me to succeed.
And so the campaign to reinvigorate my regimes, rock types and motor memory has begun. Rather than returning week after week to the same old venues, it's clear that the way forward is in seeking out all that is new and listening closely to the feedback from talented peers (as is ever the case).
Yesterday I acquired my new MacBook Pro and it's very alien to be able to interact so comprehensively with the internet and architectural applications. The unexpected death of the ibook G4 has been a blessing in disguise and gone are the days of waiting an hour for a pdf to open. Expect to see much more video and imagery here from now on.
Happy crushing to you all.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-7528971951258821888?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Girls only want guys with great skills (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/09/will-make-amends-to-talk-less-about.html)
16 September 2009, 1:33 pm
Will make amends to talk less about inane fingerboard movements now the new beastly macbook pro is through and post some multimedia. Not used to this level of computational efficiency.
Spent ages trying to get blogspot video upload thing to work but it's not playing ball and saying my tags aren't closed. I have no idea what to do to remedy this so if you know the score feel free to let me know. Pointless putting a lot of things on youtube.
Some small rung assists with bungee. Feel ten times stronger since the board has gone up doing this simple basic exercise in conjunction with overload sessions. Donnelly's coming over tonight to play. That should be fun.
I also wish I was this man who looks like something out of Napoleon Dynamite. And wears weird gloves.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-1666332367564867966?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Contentment (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/09/contentment.html)
20 September 2009, 9:22 pm
I've had a pleasant week past and have a pleasant week ahead. I decided yesterday after opening a letter containing some good news from university that I should go to Italy this week before recommencing study. On the back of this thought I logged straight onto Ryanair and booked it. I fly out Tuesday morning and come back next Monday. Lately I've become aware that my good friend Lorenzo has had to endure some tough times and figured he could do with some shoulder slapping, climbing and partying. Thankfully he's not one to spurn a short notice visit from a friend and so I depart with a bag of psyche that I forgot to check in. Ryan Air will probably charge me for that no matter how hard I try to conceal it.
I've been spending the last couple of weeks working on a project. It's something I'm super motivated for and after today feel that the past few weeks dieting/training is starting to pay off. I had something of a breakthrough moment with it today and am eager to get back to it upon my return from Italy. I'll keep you posted on anything significant.
Tomorrow is packing and organising day before Mule comes over to talk flats. Danny's just made the transition to Liverpool and together with the Mule, Ricardo, O, Ben et al. the scene should be throbbing.
Next post will be from Italy where I hope to unfurl my plan of watercolour sketching in Florence in order to meet an Italian supermodel girlfriend. This would be nice.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-1634390751698957071?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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And so it begins... (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/09/and-so-it-begins.html)
30 September 2009, 11:45 am
I've had a very pleasant last week in Siena and Florence with my good man Lorenzo. A lot happened in a short space of time and as I've just jumped straight back into university, I'm going to draft a proper post in the next few days with some short footage of the recent developments at Amiata top.
I've already begun thinking about the possible Austria trip at Christmas with Em and possibly the Mule. I've not really done much skiing before but am beginning to get a psyche on for the imminent potential bouldering (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/UKBouldering/album/132) and ski holiday (http://www.crystalski.ie/). Since travelling on my own to Italy, I'm starting to get into the idea of doing more Euro breaks on my own and am considering looking into Bulgaria ski holidays through these (http://www.crystalski.ie/index.shtml) guys who seem to provide a pretty comprehensive package. I've been doing a bit of research into the best slopes and best ways to get involved but I'm hoping James and Em will be able to pave the way for the worlds greatest ski punter. It does seem a tad tragic going skiing on your own but Bulgaria has some fairly esoteric architecture I'd like to check out and it could be more than plausible to head out early January. Who knows.
Will talk Italy after I make a decent start on the new design project. Boom.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-7139174365811382649?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Turning 26 (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2009/10/turning-26.html)
15 October 2009, 9:50 am
I turned 26 on Monday. I nearly missed it though. Since the moment I stepped off the plane back from Italy, I've been rooted to my drawing board and desk immersing myself in the realities of second year architecture. My dad phoned me on Sunday night as I was sat in studio working away and asked if I was coming to visit the following day for my birthday. I assured him that my birthday was on Tuesday and that I'd see him then. Turns out it was the following day.
I haven't had time to recapitulate the amazing time that I spent in Florence and Siena but for those of you that a)know Lorenzo and b)spend any amount of time in his company, you can imagine how good a time was had. That's a lame attempt, I'm sorry. Dinner in Trombicche (http://www.trombicche.it/) with Lore's good friends, crushing at the newly developed boulders at Amiata top (between some pain from training on wood and having poor skin), chatting to many people, drinking great coffee, wine and liqueurs. I could continue but you must get to Florence and Siena and see for yourselves.
Currently, I have just finished a two week project designing a house. The brief stipulated a number of criteria must be adhered to which although presenting some difficulties, made us work within a framework to produce a building 'type'. It's definitely an up of the ante in terms of the time given to complete projects but one can notice an improvement in skills across the board developing in tandem.
I need to mail Lore some short video footage and snaps giving a very vague hint at the beauty and quality of Amiata top so you can see what goes on.
Stay cool.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-5259307024043178087?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Pack it up, pack it in, let me begin (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/01/pack-it-up-pack-it-in-let-me-begin.html)
26 January 2010, 5:03 pm
Since the last time of writing, much and very little has happened. I'm not even sure what did but suffice to say something of significance might have happened.
Climbing motivation is pretty high at the moment. The month past has been spent on the odd occassion fingerboarding in between doing a lot of work for university assessments. After a pretty epic all night stint in studio two days ago, all of my work is now pinned up for marking and the only remaining thing that I'm working for is a slide recognition test on friday. From here it's straight on a train to meet the mule and slam it down to Bristol to party. I'm fuelled.
I'm in training for the project and know it's just a question of time before I acquire the specific micro gains to send it since discovering a great bit of micro beta before the snow came. Fully ready for a training season as of friday and looking forward to being back at the crags.
Hope yall are good now.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-6162890918345221774?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Gaskins o clock (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/03/gaskins-o-clock.html)
26 March 2010, 2:33 pm
Well, since last posting, many things have happened. I realised that the only way to train given the current life situation is to be out the door for 6.15 am running and then jumping onto the fingerboard for hangs and power pulls. I've done two sessions now and I love it. Being up before seemingly anyone else and pumping one's lungs full of oxygen goodness is what it's all about. Admittedly power pulls can feel something of a great effort at that time of day but through persistence, they'll become easier.
As Master Hession requested to see evidence of me actually doing something, here's a little sketch section photoshop render from this early phase of the library design. I'm enjoying it greatly and heard from a tutor that the external visiting critic that saw my scheme said mine was the only one on the day that got him genuinely interested. This is very pleasing to hear and it's nice to know I could well be setting myself up for some good marks. Working with these quick sketch scheme sections and photoshop seems to be a good way to quickly develop ideas and so I'll probably swerve Archicad sessions until next year in order to allow my photoshop skills to grow.
In summary, life is good, I met an ace girl lately. I still have no money but I'm on the path that I know leads to somewhere.
Peace.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-7510881105008446660?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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What has been and what is to come (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/06/what-has-been-and-what-is-to-come.html)
10 June 2010, 12:41 pm
The past three months are something of a blur. I've spent much of it sat in various rooms drawing, modelling and whatever else has been demanded of me. The marks haven't come in yet for the year but hopefully they're not too shoddy. I think I let myself down a bit in the final scheme by missing a crucial drawing but I'm just glad to be out of second year and moving on to third year.
In summary of climbing, I've not really done any but have when time has allowed crushed the fingerboard doing power pulls and hangs. I'm really out of practice but am now at least endowed with four months to train for my project. I've been running a lot which has altered my body shape quite drastically and I'd say I'm a lot less bulkier than normal which is good.
Today is day one back on it so time will tell. Godspeed yall.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-548304157072909807?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Fuelled (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/06/fuelled.html)
12 June 2010, 10:38 am
Went back to project Thursday evening and pulled down. Nice to be getting moving on rock again and also feel pretty light from running. There's been a fair bit of muscular deterioration but I think this is bizzarely desirable. I've noticed over the years that when I'm training a lot with campussing/weights/board climbing, although I might be a lot more powerful than I currently am, I can also lack that sensation I had around the cusp of puberty where I weighed very little and was mostly tendons with some body. I think after some recent examples I've seen, it's possible to get back to this and I know I climb much better for being this type of build. With this in mind, I've altered my training strategy for the project to continue running a lot as well as keeping a close eye on my diet. I figure plenty of hours deadhanging alongside this is just the ticket to success.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-6097582101068728748?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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A compact week (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/07/compact-week.html)
5 July 2010, 11:42 am
A week of news and events (albeit it smallfry).
First up, I passed the American Apparel LA photo vetting procedure to work within the company. Is that legal? Well there's a whole reel of blog posts spread across the internet debating it but I see the essence in what they're trying to do. Every job has dress codes and they're no different. As much as I've heard some girls complain about their no makeup policy I'm all in favour of it. The world is a much nicer place without cosmetic strata to people's faces and photoshopped bodily modifications.
I'm now eligible to work anywhere in the world with the company I'm told and fingers crossed this position waiting in the wings locally will come through soon.
Secondly I've been managing to resume normal training and climbing and had a very pleasant evening at Llanddulas Cave yesterday. Considering it's been over a year since I was on any sort of route I'm amazed I managed to do more than two moves. The routes at Dulas are all top quality and nice lengths. I've got my eye on Wirral Whip as a little project. It's a short 7c+ that packs some classic looking moves in and I'm told by Doylo it should suit. Matt has his eye on the filthy one's new 8b Temple of Doom which I have to admit looks absolute quality. It was so nice to be back on routes and I'm reminded from a first session back just how different a game route climbing is to bouldering.
Finally, I received my second year second semester degree result today. All modules taken into account puts me on 65% for second year. I'm happy with this and especially happy with 78% for Urban Studies which I believe is likely the highest mark in the year. And so begins the imminent third and final year of the BA. I'm looking forward to a lack of sleep for a whole year and to that all important piece of paper in my hand giving me Part I Exemption to work in practice.
So the weather is good, my life is good and my prospects hopefully bright in securing some funding for third year.
Sport climbing tomorrow again so look out Fr 5's of Wales!!!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-3178604225640251461?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Feeling ropey (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/07/feeling-ropey.html)
12 July 2010, 10:41 am
I've spent three sessions now at Llanddulas in a week. Two of them were relatively impromptu and depended upon the ability of Matt and I to remain sober the night before. Thankfully I managed one of them in a state of only tiredness and each session has seen a slight improvement upon the last. It's been a year since I was last on a rope and it wasn't exactly something as a boulderer I was equipped to throw laps on (Zeke 8b). Since then, I've hardly climbed let alone tied on to a rope so I've had to set my ambition bar to zero. Since one can only progress from nothing, I suppose you could say that I've made stratospheric gains.
Now that the return-to-sport-climbing-whitey-fest of climbing above bolts is gradually subsiding and my trusting in Crouch to not have stored his harness in a moth box for the last god knows how long amount of time is passing, I'm slowly starting to improve. It's been a case of jumping on everything and anything in my path and it's an approach I'm happy with. It's also a nice break from my bouldering project and a good way to get fitness back that's been lost at my drawing board.
Matt had an ace session yesterday despite nearly ralphing up the previous night's cider on the 6a+ warmup. He went on to feel "slightly more proper" after this wave of despair had passed and walked up Wirral Whip (7c+) with consummate ease apparently not feeling any sort of pump even after our warmups. I dream of such feats and listen closely at all times to the guru.
Going to hit the injury maker (so dubbed by the Liverpool climbing scene) today and see if I can get back to the 3.5 millies. Always feel solid gains when working the two small rungs so hopefully some repeaters on the medium rung and maximal attempts on the others will infuse some juicy improvements.
Here's some multimedia gifts for your eyes and ears since I rarely seem to pepper this bullshit with anything of note.
Sidney the lad just loves techno.
Crouchie en route to the crag. God help any man who asks for beta.
The design studio where the past year of my life has been lived.
Lorenzo with the guru's awesome child. Such a mellow beast.
1:20 detail from my final library design
One of the best sets in recent times. Extrawelt at Amsterdam Dance Event. October 2009. (http://rapidshare.com/files/297690697/01-amsterdam_dance_event_-_extrawelt_live__cocoon_powerzone_-sat-10-25-2009-talion.mp3)
Onwards and upwards brothers and sisters.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-6710775141278478474?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Neither robot nor sycophant (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/07/neither-robot-nor-sycophant.html)
27 July 2010, 6:56 pm
One of my tutors repeatedly tells me that I have trouble finishing things. I've dwelt pretty hard on this since he passed this comment about seven months ago. I don't quite know why such a comment would stick around for so long, but it's a seemingly loaded statement.
The problem of reflexivity in a self critique is immutable; it's simply not possible to suspend the effect of the self completely in order to obtain an overarching 'picture' of oneself. To this extent, I would be foolish to certifiably account for what I have realised is very true of me. What I can try to do, however, is to try to reconcile this observation with real-time examples.
I do have trouble finishing things - drawings (at times), boulder problems, routes, self-guided tutorials, new year resolutions and so on. I wish not to berate myself in light of this matter but would rather hope to treat my 'self' as a progressive entity. I refuse to argue with friends, family or relations to any extent and I realise the fervour of this sentiment more fully as each day passes. If a dear friend, family member or relation initiates an argument with me then I know that for good reason I have somehow riled them either by way of blind ignorance, an emotional oversight or some other such reason. I think it's important that as soon as this happens, one tries as fully as possible to be as reflexive inasmuch as it is possible in attempting to trace the logical causation of this interruption to an otherwise peaceful existence.
Attitudinally, this may all sound somewhat robotic and it's very problematic conveying otherwise to you perhaps. Let me assure you though that I am neither a robot nor a sycophant; rather I am attempting to document my evolving means of evolving and through this become a being capable of realising achievements based not upon aleatory occurrences but through pre-meditated meditations.
Thinking further, my active plan to work towards some of the recent goals I have spoken about within the UKB Powerclub thread seems to be fully in motion. I hope to write soon with news of finishing some unfinished business I have.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-8996382407842276900?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Not so weak a week (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/08/not-so-weak-week.html)
2 August 2010, 12:05 am
The week past has been the second successive week of indulging in what I could claim to be called 'training' and 'climbing'. Generally, I think four sessions is a worthy week and it's rather a luxury for me to find the time to be able to participate to this extent. I'm aware the final academic year ahead of my BA is going to be a tough time so there does feel something of a hurriedness about my current climbing desires and position. I'm sitting on 65% for second year and having learnt so so much this year past, I've put myself in a good position to go for the win - first class honours. I told myself in my first degree that I wouldn't leave university without a first and this assertion has been made again. Now to deliver.
I had a proper session on Mudjakeewis last week and felt better than the week past on it. The lactic threshold is extending itself to me kindly and I'm starting to relax above bolts a little more and enjoy the business at hand. I'm not quite sure why this fear is here as I've never had it mountaineering or climbing indoors so it's probably down to getting reacquainted with heights and feeling confident in the fact that there are no problems.
Paulo, Mike and I nipped over to Dullas tonight for a power hour and given the lack of available time to us, I decided to jump straight back onto Mudja. I tied on and got straight on it in the hope of warming up in situ and to my surprise seriously floated up it to the flattys. I dropped off purposefully and lowered to make sure my fingers were warmed up properly. A minutes rest then I jumped back on and casually got to the last move to the gaston before the easy top section only to not be able to work out where I ideally wanted my right foot. After a brief rest I climbed back on and think I saw a right foot diagonal smear that's probably the ticket to getting stood up to romp home to victory. As time wasn't on our side, I came down and let the others get a mince on. I think success is near and the climbing brilliant. An important pair of factors in making the whole process an enjoyable one.
Tomorrow evening might be a late one at LPT on belay (or relay as you scousers will know it) duty for the Don and Mike with wednesday given over to project time.
I'm working on some architectural watercolour drawings at the moment so hope to post up some snippets of my early experiments with some new materials in the near future. Should you have read this, I hope you are well dear citizen.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-4872400388800635457?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Unravelling the black hole of lethargy (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2010/08/unravelling-black-hole-of-lethargy.html)
7 August 2010, 12:36 pm
Something of a mystery lethargy virus has taken its hold across the NW contingent it seems this week. Not quite cold, not quite flu, stripped of the harshness of a chest cold it's just left me feeling like I've had the life sucked out of me for the past four days. I suppose it's naturally worrying if you suddenly start to feel so depleted of energy but thankfully today seems to be a slight improvement upon the previous days. A good few friends reporting similar symptoms. Weird one.
Ventured over to Llandullas yesterday for an easy volume session but was unable to summon an atom of energy and so instead belayed Paulo briefly before sacking it home. One poor day out is perfectly acceptable bearing in mind the ten past have been good I suppose.
The only thing troubling me this week has been the 'above bolts' issue. As I mentioned, I'm really not sure where this has come from as two years ago I was climbing at the wall daily without any worries. Suddenly I seem to be able to climb perfectly fine with a first bolt preclipped but throw something of an inner whitey the moment I'm above it. Think it makes for comedy viewing for the team which is something of a consolation but I'd prefer to be out and out crushing than shitting dirty water. I watched some video of the 'clip drop' technique linked via UKC and I'm sure something like that would be a good way to sort it out. Either that or just some practice lobs at the crag. Answers on a postcard...(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-496507358786024222?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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And the beat goes on (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2011/07/and-beat-goes-on.html)
31 July 2011, 11:07 pm
A summary of the past nine months:
- Met a delightful young lady and been going out for over a year now. She's dangerously good at climbing and has fingers that rival Gaskins. Get good now dear but not too good...
- Lost the contents of my world (not said in screaming scouse girl voice) aka shitdrive. Stayed awake for 4 days at the peak encountering chest pains and hallucinating heavily. A phonecall to Mr Donnelly reassured me it was pleural chest pain and not heart pain. Fought on through, redrew as much of a years work as possible. It came off and a 2.1 was sent my way. A torturous shame thinking what would have been otherwise but I live to tell a tale (albeit a boring one).
- Went to the cave after 6 months of no physical exercise and got to the last moves of RA. Wondered why climbing is so odd and the body even more so. Hit training and climbing hardish and gains started to come back. Not climbed last two weeks since getting back on project. This is to be the year to do that (inevitably at a grade of Fb 4 no doubt).
- Sea fishing passion of old has come back. Went through my old stuff from 12 years ago and made lots of new rigs today. Caught some mackerel unexpectedly the other night. Was unusually tasty. I wonder how long it takes fish to get from the sea to Tesco?
Climbing tomorrow. Lovely. Big love.(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-1243124610717604724?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Welcome back to the world.
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My mum says you're dumped!
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Yeah yeah yeah Tom. I knew all that. Tell me something new... ;)
Actually I didn't know the bit about you going fishing.
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He even ventured on to the Bowderstone with team scal yesterday... and true to old form, just got stuck into a crimpy 8A :strongbench:
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Woah woah crouchie, that's not strictly true. I was boning some crimps to get some strength back. It was only ever going to be a tour day and an outdoor fingerboard session. Psyched to go back soon with some arms.
Fishing is the new rock n roll although you could argue it's a distraction from having to do physical exercise. I'm just useless in humid conditions and really lethargic :'(
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good to read you again brother.
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Tips on surviving the apocalypse (aka the recession) (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2011/08/tips-on-surviving-apocalypse-aka.html)
4 August 2011, 1:08 pm
The present day graduate must be bulletproof. Fully, 100% bulletproof. When the local job centre looks like the student union, you know something is terribly awry. It is incredibly easy for him or her to lapse into a trough of despair; a journey downwards that is further facilitated by his or her inclination to follow any sort of press - be it tabloid or broadsheet. Tales of forty thousand applicants for one graduate job circulate freely, almost as if the act of gaining a position had become established as a Myth. Yes, myth with a capital 'M'.
Not I said the tinman, not I! For this bleak landscape of nothingness becomes the canvas upon which to shine. Let others keel over and perish while your wiliness grants you access to unforeseen prospects. Let the CV's of the others be printed on the finest of papers! Give the masters something of luxury to wipe their tired anuses with!
Nepotism, my friends, is alive and kicking. Do not be fooled that your CV will be read or even used as anal fodder. Permeate the inner core of your masters social circle and be at one with it. Do not be fooled that nepotism is necessarily a force of evil. Do not bask in the comfort of a depressed 'Send' button upon application. Do not suffer the ubiquitous rhetoric upon a follow-up call. Do not consider yourself to be the best for you are not.
Strategy and tactic.
The battlefield
The fauna
The construction(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-3163961970893558982?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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welcome to Italy brother.
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Untitled (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2012/02/untitled.html)
12 February 2012, 11:34 am
The last five months have been a big motivational struggle. After training hard since the start of last summer, I thought I had my project finally satched up. Alas these two middle finger A2 strains took a long time to heal and upon a two month rehabilitation spree with a zero crimping ban I ended up back at square one which forced me to lay off completely from climbing and work solely on the pullup bar.
The pain didn't seem to be the usual sort of that of scar tissue and I didn't want these strains to flare up again. I'd been making good progress with healing and some good progress on the bar before I acquired a horrendous foot infection that resulted in my inability to walk for the best part of a week. Some stupid triage nurse tried to fob me away from my admittance to A&E but my insistence to speak to a consultant proved correct and they were glad that I'd come at that time. Doubtless I would have needed IV antibiotics had I have not insisted upon seeing the doctor.
I'm about to begin normal service this week and I'm looking forward to my first proper half-crimp in five months. I'm also looking forward to Lore's imminent visit and getting him some good ticks as he's unleashed upon our hallowed crags. Get yourself over pronto champ!(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-275623120834209945?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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New school inspirators (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2012/08/old-school.html)
13 August 2012, 5:38 pm
I've realised that it's a little tricky trying to pick a blog up from where one last signed off. Though I have been climbing, much of what I've been doing has been just enough to tick over at times varying to concerted efforts at other times. Since September, I've lost four hours a day to my commute which hasn't been conducive to facilitating solid climbing performances on a consistent basis. I've really been trying to eat as well as possible in work and at home to give myself a fighting chance. Obviously getting straight to the wall from work at 7.30 means a late dinner afterwards and then not wanting to eat too heavily with a 6am rise the following morning. I feel constantly tired and it's not something I wish to entertain for too much longer. All of the work I've been investing in to my project has come to mean very little but I know the levels of despondency that one can come to associate with injury and time off and how in fact, the body is an amazing entity that can always develop when asked.
Undoubtedly, life could be made a lot easier both financially and economically by making a move to Manchester. For many reasons, this isn't a move that I have wanted to make and it's actually quite nice dipping in and out of a different city each day. Though that might be me putting a positive spin on it, I really am fond of Liverpool and enjoy rolling back into Lime Street each evening through the murky, cavernous underbelly of the Edge Hill cuttings.
I thought for the subject of this post, I might pass idle commentary on some of the things and people that I find inspire me. In actual fact, I can certifiably say that the vast majority of 'dedicated' climbers I meet inspire me in their various different ways. We each have our own respective life pressures exerting their influence and attempting to suppress our abilities to climb consistently and in style. To then be able to climb to a standard which is above average requires maximal focus and an ability to translate all of the peripheral minutiae of life into a sort of ambient noise. This is no mean feat and I am very much aware that some of my cohorts would seem to be masters of this particular art. As phenomenal and groundbreaking as I find many of the top level modern athletes to be, I find it much easier to trace the simplicity with which the path to their present condition has been forged. Whether through the aid of parental contribution, sponsorship or just getting by, the vast majority of these young uber talents have grown into a climbing world that in terms of training facilities is wildly more sophisticated than it was twenty years ago. Historically speaking, though training on brick edges in a back yard before becoming one of the worlds greatest rock climbers might sound a romantic notion, one must also remember that a great many members of this previous generation were forced to reside in caves or in squalor in order to become the finest athletes of their day. I have a deep seated admiration for the commitment that was very necessary for these climbers to make in order to be the best they could be but although this hardcore (almost homeless) means of existing and climbing seems to be far less rife than it had been during the 80s, there seems to be a new breed of hardcore; those individuals who manage to hold down reputable and demanding professions whilst managing to remain focussed and strong. Doubtless the proliferation of indoor training facilities assists said individuals, but it's a different kind of struggle that they face.
I'm inspired by Matt Donnelly's return to form having had a long layoff from the sport. Despite managing a large team of people and working long days, his devotion to training and pushing his own personal boundaries is immensely impressive. Lorenzo Frusteri's commitment to training is equally as impressive given his arduous commute between Siena and Florence each day in 40 degree heat. After a day spent teaching Italian to foreigners, I can hardly think of anything less appealing than pulling down on small edges on a steep board or dangling under tiny pockets with many kilograms attached to oneself. I could reel off a list of countless friends and acquaintances whose devotion to their own progression never fails to impress me and as we humans only ever seem to laud our peers posthumously which seems to me to be rather tragic, I'd prefer to take the opportunity to do it here and now and to congratulate these people for offering me a very real and familiar source of inspiration.
Lastly, though I never really get time to write any more, I hope to write soon of a very exciting personal matter. My thanks to all sources of inspiration whether you know me or not. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-5255351055630379837?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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good post
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Fuck it, move to leeds and commute to Manc!
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Which way to The Chevin? (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2012/10/which-way-to-chevin.html)
7 October 2012, 11:11 pm
Finally! After twelve months spent commuting on public transport to Denton from Liverpool, it's over! I'm absolutely elated to be finished with my first year in practice and similarly enthralled to have gained so much experience. It's been a very steep learning curve on so many fronts and I've certainly had a big insight into the profession. Naturally, there have been highs and lows and as ever in architectural design, the highs seem to be very high and the lows very low. On many occasions I was in positions of great responsibility where I had perhaps not even realised it. In the early months when everything was slightly intimidating and all very new, it was probably for the best that I didn't realise it. More recently, I've had a few idle moments of realisation of just how much more I am capable of doing than I had been initially. To be able to go to site and converse with some degree of fluency in what needs to be done is something I derive great satisfaction from and it's precisely such feelings that always keep me moving forward with what seems like a life sentence of an education (seven years already and three to four to go!). I must admit, it's been rather dismaying feel my body take a predominantly downward spiral in terms of fitness but despite this insane commute, I have managed to train as hard as I possibly can given such little respite. I'm pleased about this and my love for climbing couldn't be any greater. Now that the year in practice is over, I'm moving to Leeds to live with my girlfriend which is a pretty exciting step to take. Over the course of the next ten months the plan is to source any form of employment and to enter a number of international architecture competitions in conjunction with some young architect friends with the aim of developing the portfolio. I'd actually love to do some more wall work and setting ideally but will need to take whatever might be going. As much as I haven't ever gelled with gritstone, it'll be amazing to be so close to Caley and Almscliffe and to really give it a go. If you see some weak skanky punter flapping about, please do free to come over and show him the error of his ways. You wouldn't mind a few tips would you Crouchie? ; ) (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-8739102912251608148?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Fucking yes brother.
Congratulatons.
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it'll be amazing to be so close to Caley and Almscliffe and Ilkley and Earl and.......
Nice one mate. Hope it all works out for you.
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And Alfred and Arcadia and the Hunters and...
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Pastures old (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2012/11/pastures-old.html)
5 November 2012, 5:45 pm
Finally, everything seems to be falling nicely into place. After a frantic week spent calling, prospecting and visiting, we've finally found and been able to move into a really nice apartment in the centre of Leeds. Not only is the apartment super nice but the River Aire is outside the door and City Bloc just around the corner. Being both a keen fisherman and (trying to be) a climber, this can only bode well in the stimulus department. I had been a bit reticent at first about leaving Liverpool but I'm really not sure why now. The Leeds lads and lasses will undoubtedly have a good scene and plenty of actual rock to boot. I had my inaugural City Bloc session this afternoon and all concerned have done a very good job of providing precisely what one wants in an indoor wall; well, that's certainly the way I see it. The space has been really well thought out and large roofs have been wisely omitted given the fairly slender width of the building. Varied consistent angles and great hold selections were very welcome and problems throughout all grades I'd say were very well set. It's been around the seven week mark of having had a super painful lower back injury and so it was nice to feel in control working through these. Massive props to all concerned. Just my possessions to collect from Wirral now and some life admin then hopefully in a few months I'll have gotten a lot of mileage in and be fully immersed in all of the delights that Yorkshire has to offer. "Lovely stuff, not my words Michael, the words of Shakin' Stevens". What a peg to have outside your door! (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DbjvR_dW1is/UJf5ufLji1I/AAAAAAAAAE8/Bnu2FA89VjU/s320/photo-2.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DbjvR_dW1is/UJf5ufLji1I/AAAAAAAAAE8/Bnu2FA89VjU/s1600/photo-2.JPG) Finally, a lesson we should all learn when in a toilet cubicle (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Jmo_WNJC5M/UJf6TNEyF3I/AAAAAAAAAFI/Mpjvc0DBM-g/s320/photo-3.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Jmo_WNJC5M/UJf6TNEyF3I/AAAAAAAAAFI/Mpjvc0DBM-g/s1600/photo-3.JPG) (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-8395278027083159066?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Great news Tom, very happy for you both!
Thanks for sharing.
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A Waller Waller Waller woo (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2012/11/a-waller-waller-waller-woo.html)
21 November 2012, 8:53 pm
My head says Gaskins but my body says Waller. It's perhaps a bit extreme at both ends of the spectrum but at some point in time, you'll probably have experienced the gist of what I'm getting at. Three weeks spent so far in Leeds and life is really quite good. It's been great reacquainting myself with the city and being situated a few hundred metres from City Bloc. I can't big the style of setting up enough and there's an ace little scene going on in there. Perhaps it's the scale and the intrinsic intimacy of the place that brings it to life much like the atmosphere of the old Climbing House in Liverpool. I've been trying to work my way through as many circuit problems as my Victor Meldrew lower back will allow. Thankfully, owing to some good stretching advice and an enforced routine, things are starting to gradually ease up now and I can move my leg a fair bit more than in previous weeks. How fucking interesting for you. As much as I'm loving the close proximity to some exquisite grit crags, my mind is absolutely honed in on my ultimate aim which is to box off my project. I've been doing a lot of conditioning work with weights, the bar and the fingerboard and it feels good to be swinging around on back two once more. There's really quite some work to do over the next few months but I'm hoping come the Christmas vacation, I'll be in relatively good nick to attempt it once more when home with the rents. It'll be interesting too to see if I can gain momentum with this fat burning diet plan I've adopted. Let's hope so otherwise it's Wallertime. (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W5f6ecrBaM0/UK0-uTHl99I/AAAAAAAAAFc/9D0HC7wDLfo/s320/Rik-Waller-singing.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W5f6ecrBaM0/UK0-uTHl99I/AAAAAAAAAFc/9D0HC7wDLfo/s1600/Rik-Waller-singing.jpg) I know at least one man that finds him handsome anyway. (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-7920610606402989456?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Nice to read the good news brother. Hope to see you both soon. You and Hayley I mean, not you and Waller.
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Waller is already on his way to Amiata to pull down (on) the rock and make all of your projects steeper! :strongbench:
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(http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2012/12/blog-post_13.html)
13 December 2012, 1:17 pm
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-2035574927061197614?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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If at first... (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2012/12/if-at-first.html)
13 December 2012, 1:25 pm
A fortnight ago, I made the decision to go on a diet. It is at once the best and worst decision I have ever made. I don't carry reams of fat yet there does seem to be something making me heavier than I ought to be. Come on man admit it, it's FAT! I'm not surprised that a largely recent sedentary existence has brought me here but most importantly, like an alcoholic admitting to being as such, I have crossed the threshold of realisation.
Week one went by in slow motion. Every path I trod seemed to be some sort of trail to a honeypot and I was very much the stupid bear. Alas, after the first few days I was in business and could turn down a carb-based meal at the drop of a hat. A banana was for breakfast, a tin of sardines and bag of salad for lunch with a chicken breast or piece of fish with heaps of steamed vegetables for tea. I happened upon a brief relapse into sinking a few pints with a good friend and a pub tea a week on but by and large it's not been too bad. I'm back locked in to the programme this week and becoming an expert at shunning mince pies.
This week, I read two seperate quotations by two different legends of the British climbing scene. Each seem to articulate differing perspectives on the nature of sieging a project but both entertain. Why entertain? Consider this:
"...we find said boulder and...well...how long can one ‘work’ on a problem before conceding its impossibility - that one is simply posing; decorating the difficulties with a fumbling presence."
Compare and contrast to this:
""if a line inspires you it doesn't matter how long it takes""
The former quotation stems from North Wales trad stalwart George Smith. I always enjoy his pieces on North Wales Bouldering (as do many others judging by recent UKB comments) and find them very much akin to the style of writing found in the Guardian's Country Diary (of which I have an excellent compendium - you really ought to purchase it). I love this quotation for the author's humourous self-deprecation and answerability only to himself.
The latter quotation excites and instills fear in equal measure for it's cold, hard, eternal, unknowing, brute nerve - non disistam.
It may come as no surprise to you that the utterer of these words is John Gaskins. I feel no shame in admitting the level of inspiration that John has afforded me with over the course of my climbing and study life. I feel no shame in admitting also that the past seven years in university have tested me to the ends of the earth. I have for long been at the bottom of a financial ruin to pursue a single-minded academic intention and as strange and fanatical as it may sound to you, the transcendental presence of such committed individuals who have achieved so much have always kept me headstrong.Thus far, he has been the only deserver of a place in my fingerboard hall of fame mounted above the door.
That is why Mr Smith, I hope you will always write in such an excellent fashion as you do and Mr Gaskins, you really don't need to write or say anything more to keep my commitment to the project going. Thank you, really.
(https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/3644003448059129966-294692470345728312?l=passthepastapastor.blogspot.com)
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Amen.
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Thus far, he has been the only deserver of a place in my fingerboard hall of fame mounted above the door.
We had a John Dunne shrine next to our board. The picture of him sitting in front of Partheon Shot (with a rope hanging down it as proof) was always my favourite. Inspiring.
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Thus far, he has been the only deserver of a place in my fingerboard hall of fame mounted above the door.
I can send you a nude photo of Richie if you want to add that to the hall of fame?
Nice blog Tom.
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Operation light as a feather (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2013/01/operation-light-as-feather.html)
15 January 2013, 11:32 pm
So far so good. Out of a possible fifteen days, training has thus far figured in seven of them. Owing to a slight pulley strain and plenty of finger training over the past two months, I've earmarked January as 'conditioning month'. I've now gotten into the habit of running every other day and as a result lost 3kg since beginning the mission in November. That puts me at 80.9kg from 84kg and I'm hoping to keep going down now I'm getting firmly back into the swing of running. I'm scared I might achieve something some day if I can get to a new low weight. I suppose mid 70kg would be a good aim but I'm happy to keep running as frequently as possible to increase this diminishing weight trend and see what happens by around March time.
Living in Leeds again has thus far been excellent. There's a great scene here and a wholesome mix of activities to indulge in. It's also got me thinking; I'm 'due' to complete my studies in architecture this coming September but I'm fearful of this. I'm 29 now and as many peers keep reminding me, I've "been in university forever". I love academia very much and I could see myself excelling and really enjoying a life in architecture in parallel with doing some teaching/critiquing in future years at the university. I'm juggling this prospect of long days, an uncertain state of the construction industry and whether I want to commit 100% to it. Since working in a temping job for the NHS in Leeds on their web team, life is easy for now. I can walk home in ten minutes with no stress returning home with me to put 100% into my training. I feel as though I've always had latent potential to be so so much better at climbing but it's always sat secondary to university.I'm now asking myself what the hell do I want? There's an extremely real chance that I could forfeit the opportunity to travel down this professional path in which instance I will transfer all of my dedicated energies into achieving very specific climbing goals. I will not fail at these if this is to happen.
The other scenario is to fully surrender climbing. I would absolutely have to. Nothing has been more painful to 'tick over' and never give full devotion to the sport. Years have ticked past as I've watched countless videos from friends climbing on Euro trips and further afield. I'd be lying if I told you I wasn't in the least bit jealous. I've felt completely jealous.
My problem is that I want to give absolutely everything to the task in hand in all that I do. I know that it's decision time and that something has to give. How to proceed? Yours, well and truly stumped.
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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You can do both! Some people have a fulfilling career, kids and they climb hard. You've just got to grasp the nettle!
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The path to happiness is no path at all.
John's got it right. Embrace all of it.
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Yep
Life's too short to worry about work.
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Yep
Life's too short to worry about work.
Fixed.
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Yep
Life's too short to worry about work.
Fixed.
A worthy edit.
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Thanks for the timely reminders guys. Some headspace and free weekends will do me some good these next few months.
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And evenings, once there some more light!
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Onward (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2013/10/onward.html)
24 October 2013, 12:05 am
Turned 30 last weekend. My madame organised me an amazing Alan Partridge-themed surprise party whereby all concerned were clad in full size masks. I'd just woken up after a nap and entered a room thinking a pint was on the cards before dinner. Low and behold... "A HAAAAAA!!". Spectacular fun ensued through the night and I was pleased to be the last man standing (sort of). Hitting the big 3-0 is seemingly a big worry for many people but I've come to be way more comfortable with the advancement and replenishment of cells in line with an arbitrarily devised unit keeping system over these past few years. Ultimately, if my crimp on the acid test rung feels good, then I feel good; I don't need a bio marker and socially stigmatised number to represent anything remotely about my person. Despite only really being free from the shackles of the academic institution for the first time in thirty years as of this year, I'm happy with how climbing is coming back into touch. My understanding of the micro intricacies of board climbing feels sufficiently developed and all of the timing elements that board climber par excellence - Mr Keith Bradbury - used to tell me on those board sessions early in the formative days of our friendship now all make sense. Presently, my fingers feel good but my core feels like a sodden bath sponge in comparison. Tres interessant! I'm looking forward to passing my sodding driving test at long last and getting involved with some Gaskinsesque dawn raids prior to work over the coming months. I miss writing and have done all year but alas the daily development of my business has occupied any time outside of training. The grand plan is of course to go full time with the business in due course and be answerable only to myself (also allowing greater flexibility to my climbing and life schedule). A poor summary but the keyboard is dusted off hopefully to log a good climbing year ahead...
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Despite only really being free from the shackles of the academic institution for the first time in thirty years as of this year
Did you start school as an embryo??
Good blogging and congrats on the big 30. Still only 2/3 of my age, a mere youth!
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Futures yeah (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/2014/01/futures-yeah.html)
8 January 2014, 1:02 am
2013 was a funny year if a year can be funny. The year was preceded by me getting a bit lost in my own head trying to work out what this thing attached to it should do. Several months previous to the dawn of the year a funny conversation took place between myself and one of my best friends over a whisky in Scotland. Faced with the dawning realisation that training to be an architect in the current economic climate was a bit like training to be an ice cream vendor in the Antarctic, I began to let my head reveal its true desires (doubtless helped by a dram of cask strength Springbank 12 year old).
The ultimate realisation was that it was both unwise and undesirable to continue on the programme that I had now spent five years on. After applying or speaking to nearly every architectural practice in Leeds - to where I had moved for a year with my girlfriend for her job - I very quickly realised that if I wanted to stay up north, then this apparently daft dream of being an independent whisky bottler/blender might not actually be too foolhardy an endeavour in comparison. And so it began. I took up a position through a temporary agency to work at the NHS' Health and Social Care Information Centre and would rise at 6am most days cramming in 3 hours of whisky-related work prior to my working day. I would spend every lunch hour on the telephone piecing together a mental picture of industry stalwarts and potential brokers in order for me to be able to handle subsequent telephone conversations with some degree of aplomb. I purchased myself a dense squared pocket notebook from Paperchase and logged each and every phonecall and with whom it took place within its pages. Systematically, I broke each double page spread into a ruled format with designated calls to action after each call was made; who I would speak to, what was the outcome, what could it teach me about the industry etc. Remotely, I was day-by-day managing to enter the industry in which I truly dreamed of working. Toasted and charred stave samples were posted to me from various cooperages I managed to convince of the scope of my operation (then non-existent), telephone numbers of mythical brokers eventually revealed themselves to me, people laughed me out of town, others sided with the motivation that I appeared to be showing.
And so it continued; visits to every distillery in Islay during festival week, lowland distillery door knocking, the setting of self-examinations, note taking, befriending warehousemen on Islay, 20 phone calls a day, endless whiteboard exercises mapping the plan and processes out, visits to London to meet with a whisky maker I greatly respect, developing my USP etc. etc.
Our time in Leeds was time very well spent. I was able to forge some brilliant friendships and had the ultimate privilege of living around the corner from City Bloc where the scene is simply excellent. I managed to begin to regain some form of strength there and the time away from the pressure to commit to Part II of architecture gradually faded and allowed me to see that I could try to be precisely what my silly little head wanted to be - a whisky bottler/blender and a decent boulderer. Granted the latter has some way to go before I achieve the handful of life goals I have indelibly written down but the former is starting to happen. A beautiful cask has been bottled, the artwork legally approved by the Scotch Whisky Association and all in life is starting to come together.
After four months of dedicated board climbing and fingerboarding, I recently found myself at the Great Orme with the usual local suspects. Though some very decent goes at (the almost mythical) Clutch saw me slapping millimetres below the pocket on session one, my personal highlight came as a big surprise to me. John Gaskins' Pill Box problem might not mean much to many but to me, it epitomises every single last element of the perfect boulder problem.
An old game some of us would intermittently play was to take the Gaskins problem holds from standing and attempt to walk our feet in flush to the 'kicker'. None of us had ever managed to do this and it was merely the usual sort of daft Scouse challenge that would ensue at every crag we would visit. This time was different; I took the holds, walked my feet flush to the kicker and for between 12-15 seconds felt extremely comfortable. During previous manic bouts of training this had never been possible and I'm still not sure why it was possible during the day in question. I dubbed this 'The Johnny Walkin' on obvious account of the whisky-related pun and estimated Danny might give this Den 7a+. I'l take it. I've also started to smash the 4.5mm rung deadhang exercise by filing it down to the geometries of the left hand hold and am doing simulated hangs with a small right edge and smaller left edge much like on the Pill Box problem. I'm doing this partly for shits and giggles but partly because I'm an underachiever that believes in my own oddly motivated head that some day I can do the problem from standing. I know from frequent text conversations with Cattell junior that I'm not alone in wanting access to the work of the G (albeit I was with Danny some years ago when he was leaping for the high good edge on Whisky Bitch and looking very likely to do it). The future's bright, the future's weird.
In summary on the back of 2013, I'm in a happy place and confident about what the future can hold both in business and in climbing. I wish you all the very best with your desires for the year ahead and I hope it's and amazingly rewarding one for you.
Joy.
Source: Pass the Pasta Pastor (http://passthepastapastor.blogspot.com/)
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Nice Tom...
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Great post. I am keen to try this Johnny Walkin'!
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Great post brother.
Crush on.
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Bit of a signal demonstration of why I feel vaguely pathetic ..... when I drank Springbank CS, I thought "I might buy another bottle of this, or maybe try some other Campbeltown malts, y'know live dangerously!", when you drank Springbank CS, you thought "I know, I'll drop everything and set up my own boutique independent bottling business!". Good luck - I really hope the malt proves worthy of your efforts.
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Have you got The Angel's Share and Whisky Galore on permanent repeat in the background?
I'm sure the business will bring you every success, I'm ready to sign up me and for father in law for his 70th at the end of the month.
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Cheers brossifs. Ended up on a bit of a ramble but something mildly satisfying about summarising...
John, you must come and play. It's far more fun than this thing we call climbing.
Moose, all I can say at this stage is never underestimate the snowball effect of the seed of an idea. That and the Ben Nevis pub in the West End of Glasgow is a great place to spur a man on in his endeavours.
Chris, I'm afraid I don't at present. Just the sound of a ticking clock. I look forward to our meeting in Speyside in due course : )