UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Tommy on June 13, 2010, 05:20:44 pm
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I was wondering around Burbage South edge yesterday just below where "Desparete" and "The Impossible Groove" are and saw a very mean looking steep finger crack with chalk on it on the back of a steep leaning boulder.
It's the one, which is kind of like a big crevasse which you can walk down the back of (about 20m below the edge itself). Looked truly desperate. Has it been done yet? Grade if so? There looked enough chalk that it had had some attention at some stage.
Cheers
Tom
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I didn't think it would climb as a finger crack, more as layaways, with maybe one finger lock at most.
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Yeah, I tried this with Dave. Not a crack climb, more like a desperate 8B layback. Maybe.
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Hmm yeah. I was wondering! Looked kind of like the way to go would be a layback facing rightwards - proper hard though! Doesn't even get much easier at the lip either.
Were you trying it sit start/crouch/stand?
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I've seen this. A first it looks pretty easy, then you take a closer look, feel the holds, spot the lack of footers and realise it’s really desperate!
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Yep, I tried this with Percy about a year ago. From a sitter I got to the lip but could only just hang it. The last moves will be truly desperate!
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Good effort for getting to the lip! Were you laybacking facing right then I presume?
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This has been tried by loads of people without success - I think because it is a) hard, and b) not a particularly nice problem to try.... The 'landing' is most off-putting - I always tend to get ejected straight out into the boulder behind. It is possible to hang a pad down this to make things more ammenable, but it still a pain in the arse (literally!). I think that the fact that it is in a 'crevasse' between two boulders should give most people all the info they need on the state of play. Its the sort of problem you try when you've done everything else.....(Travs!)
It will probably be in the 7c+ area when it gets done, I'm sure.
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Ha Ha, guess you'll be trying it this afternoon then? If not I'll see you at the wall tonight after a quick play outside. :)
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It will probably be in the 7c+ area when it gets done, I'm sure.
Not a chance. :lol:
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The choice of start position will make a difference, seeing as you could probably 'sit' start it most of the way up!