UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: chris_j_s on June 08, 2010, 10:29:04 am
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Tim Emmett finally climbed his project seen on the Welsh Connections DVD. The footage of it looked amazing and really bloody hard so congrats to Tim. :great:
The route is called Muy Caliente! and gets E10 6c.
Blog entry from Tim (with slightly irritating code snippets visible throughout):
http://www.planetfear.com/blog.php?id=240 (http://www.planetfear.com/blog.php?id=240)
p.s. I thought this was news so I put it here rather than chuffing. Sorry if thats wrong! :shrug:
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F*in hell, that must be death on a stick!!!
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F*in hell, that must be death on a stick!!!
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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FFS! Don't you understand how the UK adjectival grading system works? You dick.
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Where is it - roughly - in Stennis Ford?
Just left of Ghost Train.
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FFS! Don't you understand how the UK adjectival grading system works? You dick.
When I saw this thread I was going to reply but Andy B beat me to it. Properly :lol: :lol: :lol: Where's the ROFL smiley when you need it :shrug:
Nice work Tim, that's is a mighty impressive, bold and challenging looking line. You cvnts. ;)
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And more importantly what is "glycogen dumping"?
Google.
http://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/04/the-glycogen-dump/ (http://dave.scottishclimbs.com/2010/05/04/the-glycogen-dump/)
Just open your mouth and I will spoon it in :)
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Where's the ROFL smiley when you need it :shrug:
(http://www.smileyhut.com/laughing/roll2.gif)(http://www.smileyhut.com/laughing/roll2.gif)(http://www.smileyhut.com/laughing/roll2.gif)(http://www.smileyhut.com/laughing/roll2.gif)(http://www.smileyhut.com/laughing/roll2.gif)
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Fantastic effort Tim, ;D looked nails on Welsh Connections.
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More info up now:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55339 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55339)
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Good to see our own Somebody's fool finally showing his journalistic chops too.
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Tim built the two cruxes at TCA and used the bouldering fitness gained from this to help with both the moves and mental preparation. Though gone now, a number of Bristol climbers worked on the same problems and it gave them a good insight to what it might be like having to do moves that hard with deck-out potential.
Awesome effort Timmy.
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The section up to the gear looks horrific. Then follows the crux - V7 apparently. Top end V7 I reckon.
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Nice one.
E10 6c eh? Training on a V7 eh? Isn't V7 about sport 7b+? This surely means:
V7 = f7b+ = E6 6C.
Tim, you haven't got a dose of the Pearsons have you? ;)
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But really, what the fuck do I know?
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But really, what the fuck do I know?
Not a great deal by the sounds of it :P
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Nice one.
E10 6c eh? Training on a V7 eh? Isn't V7 about sport 7b+? This surely means:
V7 = f7b+ = E6 6C.
Tim, you haven't got a dose of the Pearsons have you? ;)
Apparently its v7 after a french 8a christophe
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Yeah an 8a that you can hit the deck from the last moves of, then you've gotta put the gear in and do a hard 7A+ problem with no rest. Ergo not E6 6C.
You dick. ;)
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And V7 is more like F7c...assuming it is sufficiently long.
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So 8A is like a long V8.
long V8 + short V7
...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?
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Only if you do the downclimb on the same day.
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Are you allowed to change shoes?
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CJD in downgrade shocker!!!
The climbing world was sent into a spin by ageing rockstar CJD who emerged from a 15 year training spree to climb the hardest trad routes. Sources claim that he had been secretly soloing some 50% of his climbing time, while working on his power on small rocks known as bouldering. The man himself commented "everyone thought I was really lazy, but in reality i have been living a double life in order to prepare myself for the greater ranges. I set myself these goals many years ago and with the help of a buddist monk I have been developing my visualisation to the point where i experience the route before climbing it. This technique allows me to feel the fear and learn to control it in any situation, I have only one problem now, it appears i am so good I don't know how hard these things are" This tequniqe has been dubbed viewpointing, arguments rage on UKC as to weather this blows the onsight. Other interesting tactics include filling a bouldering mat with broken bottles to make bouldering dangerous, and heavy drinking to aid coordination under pressure.
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So 8A is like a long V8.
long V8 + short V7
...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?
No, F8a is like a long V8+ (8A is like V11),
so it would be: long V8+ + short V7 = E10
;)
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And i thought v8+ had become a historic relic, watch out everyone this is v8+ Mach 2. A dangerous and virulent grade that is determined to forge its way into a guidebook near you!
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And i thought v8+ had become a historic relic, watch out everyone this is v8+ Mach 2. A dangerous and virulent grade that is determined to forge its way into a guidebook near you!
It never went away, it was just resting, waiting for the right moment to strike! Ha, ha! :devangel:
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So 8A is like a long V8.
long V8 + short V7
...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?
...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?
surely it must be.
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...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?
Only if you put a vat of caustic underneath it. Or a Dangerous Crocodile.
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...hey, does that mean Powerband is E10?
Only if you put a vat of caustic underneath it. Or a Dangerous Crocodile.
Does the Crocodile have to be snogging (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=5486)?
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Or you could round up some spotters from Dumby, that always adds a few E-Grades!
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Or ask James Pearson to grade it. ;) Sorry, I'll get my coat...
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...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?
surely it must be.
Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.
That's how the British grading system works, right?
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I bet Mick Ryan's fucking gutted he can't join in on this thread.
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...hey, does that mean the Longridge traverse is E12?
surely it must be.
Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.
That's how the British grading system works, right?
Is that E5 for the onsight or the headpoint?
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Birkett spied at the weekend making good progress on da shunt :whistle:
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Birkett spied at the weekend making good progress on da shunt :whistle:
Hmmm, that will be down to E9 then, if he repeats it. Considering Birkett doesn't believe in E10 ;)
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Hardest move on the Longridge traverse is 6b and it's relatively safe, so E4. Add a grade because it's quite sustained, so top-end E5.
It's E10 just for the high break.