UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: sidewinder on May 25, 2010, 10:26:13 pm
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At the wall today fell off a problem, RH on a not particularly crimpy pocket, RH ring finger was the last to depart and as it did I felt something wasn't right, pain from the base(ish) of the finger going to about 3 inches below the wrist. After immediately stopping and icing it is clear something is wrong, finger is stiff and sore to bend around the base. Also I have localised pain if I press in the middle of my palm. If I try and resist with the finger, the pain seems to be more in the palm and also the forearm.
I am used to ring pulley tweaks, which this doesn't appear to be what are the other suspects. Also before I am told to, a visit to the physio is already planned it is just good to know what to possibly expect.
Thanks in advance!
[edit]I have done some searching and it appears the FDS? tendon/muscle is a likely possibility, what is this and what is the general rehab for it, I have mainly seen advice concerning injuries in the fingers, rather than lower down the chain.
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Sounds like a flexor strain of some sort, but you're doing the right thing by seeing someone.
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Thanks GCW I have seen and read some of your v useful advice already. What exactly is a flexor, is it related to the FDS? As well as booking to see someone I am also icing, but am not sure which site is the best to ice, base of finger, palm, forearm or all three? Answers on a postcard (or here?)
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Wherever is tender is a fair bet for icing.
The flexor unit involves anything that bends the finger- A-pulleys, flexor tendons (FDS, FDP), lumbricals, C-pulleys, interossei to a degree adn potentially some involvement of the ligamentous components- check reign (volar plate), collaterals, interosseous tissues etc.
As you can see, it's quite complex so seeing someone that knows is your best option.