UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: Doylo on May 07, 2010, 05:04:09 pm
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Did a fun new training link down LPT today. Melancopout starts up Melancholie to the undercuts, then step right into Bad Boy and finish up that. Probably soft 8a+ (quite a useful grade down there, there isn't many).
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Nice one. I always assumed the start was the crux.
Malc barbecued it 15 years ago first go whilst I was trying BBB.
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Yeh i heard Malc got very close to the flash of Melancholie (so did Steve)! The start to the UC's are the hardest moves but the bit after the undercuts before BB is the redpoint crux on Melancholie.
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Has any one linked The Walking Mussel into Over the Moon Direct yet? I am going to have to do this by default as I cannot in anyway climb that crack!
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No one has yet. Mule mentioned taking that exit too but i think he's got to grips with the crack now. I've only tried that crack once. Most people say its ok when you figure it out.
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I think I have tried everything but I just can't get established on it and it eats chunks out of my finger! If I could get through the start of TWM then the direct finish would be a safer bet as you can almost fully recover at the rest.
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LPT is entering the link up age!
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Or just weak punters avoiding the traditional cruxes in my case! Meloncholie into Pas de Deux needs to go down soon though!
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Will be good and hard that one!
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its the gaps that make the routes
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Did the obvious finish into Mussel Beach from Melancopout today. Very crimpy start then a good rest then burly finish, totally ace climbing. Melon Beach 8a+ (top end)
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how about reversing the water margin so you can have a water melon?
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sounds a bit pumpy