UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: c.j.d. on April 25, 2010, 09:25:13 pm
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Right then, I finally get to blow my own trumpet (with out resorting to lower rib removal to aid flexibility, Prince Stylee (true)).
I've spent most of this week tinkering around down at The Bay, making the most of some great conditions. Angel Bay does come in for a right load of heckling, but it is worth remembering that when its damp, to hot or even green - it does seem to the uninspired and altseimic as a bit of a bag. Not so! At the minute, it massages the main vain like a Polish crack whore...
Serpentine Pad (named after a great tune, and also in memory of the strange green rock worms that where amongst the crustations to become homeless, mostly due to the cleaning required to create the line) weighs in at around V11/8a (unless I've gone shit without realizing - this has been known to happen), and is super cool and simplistic in its style.
No linking up required, just four really nice moves on exquisite holds, which in all, takes about 7 seconds to ascend. Beautiful.
If anyone is keen for a pop (Tanners has already enquired about this line), it is situated in the bay to the left of Alabaster Roof, and is the only clean line here so it is pretty easy to spot. The sequence is sweet, pulling on with your right from a sitter, up with the left to an intermediate, then to a gloriously placed dish/crimp (a pleasure to pull on this one). Once you have this, a tricky drop into the same intermediate (which now becomes a crimp as it is directional) will square you up nicely for a rather gracious astro glide to a really nice (no, really nice) rounded jug. I have also cleaned a sloper here which I used when working the move (not on the ascent) as it is SO nice. The choice is yours, along with the possibility of a knee bar (unless you are me).
Basically, the whole problem stinks of cool. By the way, the feet on this are pretty low. For the right foot, there is a very obvoius cleaned edge, but for the left there is a selection. As a new addition to the crag, its really nice to have added a problem at the same sort of quality as the existing problems to be found here already and to add to the sheer excellence, its one of mine 8)
Go nuts kids.
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Good work Chris. Have oft looked at the potential in this area. Have you considered the prow that forms the right wall of that horrible furry roof thing beyond Sonic Boom etc?
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Higginson scrubbed this clean a long time back. The big roof (plum horizontal) used to be about V7, althought the roof into the slightly leaning wall was very cool, and also very powerful.
I might clean this soon, as I know live really close to the bay, so to maintain the upkeep of the new lines there - its really worth it, and I'm just waiting for more time of work to clean the next lot - I think this will spur people in to action!
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Oh - I know what you mean now - not looked at this for a few years - will let you know how it looks this weekend.
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Nice one.
While you're there you should do Peggy (http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=351) assuming you haven't already!
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(http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/upload/news/Peggy04%20280.jpg)
Nice spot from the crouch.
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Classic. I'm taking it he's still got rigid titanium rods in his arms? Whats the problem - I feel like I should recongnise this.
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go go gadget arm of weakness.
It's a good little problem amongst the boulders not far from Manc dogs over the back and has some sharp grips. The spot wasn't quite as lazy as it looks and luckily no arms were snapped at the elbow :lol:
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I didn't need a spot, or a pad really. Crouch did. Quite a bit.
The problem is called Peggy (named after my gran), on the surprisingly large block behind Angel of Destruction and has really cool moves. I thought it was about 6b+, Crouch reckoned 7a+. :P
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When I grow up I want to be as amazingly flamboyant and talented as Benedict Farley :-*
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When I grow up I want to be as amazingly flamboyant and talented as Benedict Farley :-*
Not a hope mate, although you may be as good as Millso one day.
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The tides are right from about 4 o'clock onwards at the moment, and there is still a good wind. I'm down there on thurs and fri if anyone is keen. After that, it should be low tide during standard bouldering hours from 20th onwards for a bit.
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Not sure how to paste a link, but this is a great site:
http://www.pol.ac.uk/ntslf/tides/?port=0007 (http://www.pol.ac.uk/ntslf/tides/?port=0007)
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Had a good evening at the Bay last night and was inspired by Serpentine Pad! The Owen got really psyched and we ran around looking at all the other possibilities there! Good work Chris!
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Anyone down for the bay this evening?
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Jamie, would love to but busy I'm afraid, Enjoy!
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No worries. Good conditions last night judging from your post?
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Found a sportiva katana at the bay Friday evening!