UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Omar15 on April 24, 2010, 07:26:50 pm
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What do people think the best way of doing more one armers is? Im torn between just doing as many as i can until im useless or doing them with a weight. I'd like to be able to do them so I have more power when im climbing (which is why im leaning towards weighted ones), but also just because I've got an arbitrary goal of 5 by the end of the year.
The best I've done is three and a little bit, usually its one or two. Today I tried them with a 2.5kg weight and it was utterly nails, i barely did one - should I try more like this?
Anyway, thanks in advance and please no-one tell me to go climbing outside.
Omar
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Marius Morstad did a training program for Ben Moon years ago that involved 6 consecutive days of 1-armers using either a counterweight (to reduce weight) and/or a weight belt. Days 1,3 & 5 you do 5 sets of 5 1-armers with the maximum weight/minimum counterweight you can manage. Days 2,4 & 6 you do 5 sets of 1 with the maximum weight you can manage. There was also something about a load of sub-maximal climbing on these days. I've tried a scaled down version of this (i.e. 4 days in a row) and I certainly felt much stronger.
The key (I think) is to ensure you do them from a full straight arm, and to really try and get your opposite shoulder above your 'pulling' hand - it seems to be very good for strengthening the whole shoulder girdle.
oh, and go climbing outside.
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First thought (not based on practical experience you understand) is that sets with reps of 5+ with assistance rather than reps of 1 with resistance in trying to achieve 5 in a row would be the way to go. However, is the 5 in a row commensurate with achieving 'more power when climbing' ? whatever that means. Have you considered climbing outside? - the weather's quite nice at the moment.
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More? One would be a miracle.
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I got bored a year or so ago and started bating big Stevie H about weighted one armers. Up until that point I'd never bothered doing any.
I used to always end my school sessions with as many as I could on each arm with no weight added, then the same again with 2.5kg assistance.
Its quite dismaying to look back and think I could happily do 5 on my left with a great big hunk of metal holding my right leg together, currently I'd be lucky to do 2! I'm not sure how relevant any of it actually is beyond being able to do 1? Being able to one arm a tiny hold now that seems a lot more relevant.
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Sausage - thanks, thats really interesting. I'll try and incorporate something like that into my life. I've tried from a dead straight arm before and it feels a little bit tweaky so have always usually started from a slight bend - ill try it from straight regularly for a bit and see if its okay.
Paul B - so when you could do 5, you'd beast out as many as possible and then do the same with 2.5kg assistance? interesting. I know what you mean about one arming a tiny hold...I'm sure being able to do a buttload of one armers on a big hold would help climbing more than only being able to do one though.
Thanks for the replies guys.
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...I'm sure being able to do a buttload of one armers on a big hold would help climbing more than only being able to do one though.
And I really don't think it would, but what do I know.
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Well I can think of loads of boulder problems and routes where you have to at least lock off one-armed up to 5 times with no feet.....
Actually, wait, I can't.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs202.snc1/6932_137748828113_500938113_2418953_8044694_n.jpg)
This is Omar cutting loose and doing a pull up to impress the ladies. I do agree that it would be more impressive one-armed....
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If you can do one one-armer then you're more than strong enough in that area.
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What dave said shirley...
I've never been able to even come remotely close to a 1 armer.. can't even lock off... The thought of doing 5 :o
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oh, and go climbing outside.
Priceless. Climbing outside is now just training for one armers.
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Or perhaps it will provide enlightenment as to the utility of training one armers in relation to actually climbing. :-\
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Omar, i cant do a one-armer, and i promise to outclimb you on any outdoor route or boulder problem you care to pick. Do you see my point? Shark knows what he is talking about!
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i despair. thanks for the decent replies sausage and Paul B. and thanks ian for that photo, ill upload some nice ones of you when i work out how to do it.
and Nik at work, im sure you're very strong and a very good rock climber but there's no need to be sarcastic. surely if you had the option of being able to do more one armers or not (without changing anything else), you'd choose being able to? I really can't see how it would be unhelpful.
i was just asking for some advice, but no, everyone's got to be a jeb.
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Ok, rising to the bait. Omar talking to you about climbing is like doing this -> :wall:
I wouldn't usually care, but you're such a lovely chap that one has to keep trying.
If your goal in life is just to be strong, or strong for climbing at TCA or whatever, then you should just do that, and campus and whatnot. But then you keep claiming to have goals in rock climbing, and if you really do have these goals, its infuriating watching you act like such a retard! I mean you refused to put a harness on as part of your training for a spanish sport climbing trip!
The fact is, you have plenty enough power to climb font 8A+ or route 8c or whatever. That is no exaggeration. I have climbed with enough monsters to say that with confidence.
If your goals are really are rock climbing goals. Stop messing about at the bouldering wall, stop trying to do 5 one-armers, and go rock climbing, lots. All different styles, all different rock types.
If people think i'm being a dick posting this, I watched Omar campus 1-5-8 leading both arms multiple times a few months after watching him redpoint the 6c warm-up at a crag in Siurana.
Here endeth the sermon.
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Quick question: what grade do you climb, and what grade do you think doing more one-armers will enable you to climb?
surely if you had the option of being able to do more one armers or not (without changing anything else), you'd choose being able to? I really can't see how it would be unhelpful.
Because it takes time to train them, time which could be spent on something that would actually make a difference to your climbing. As climbing gets harder it becomes more about using smaller holds that are less multi-directional, in positions that task the smaller stabilising muscles, more than pulling down in a straight line on a good hold.
i was just asking for some advice, but no, everyone's got to be a jeb.
You've ignored all the best advice. I don't know what a jeb is, but at least I'm in good company with the other jebs on this thread.
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He's done a couple of font 7Bs.
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I'm not talking about dedicating a large part of my training on them, but after a session when my fingers are useless but my arms and shoulders still have some give in them.
and in answer to your question, i've done not very much climbing outside. last summer in thailand i did a 7c and sort of did an 8a but pussied out of clipping the anchors off a glassy crimp and grabbed them instead (which has haunted me ever since). so im not sure that counts, but i did get to the top. apart from that i did a couple of soft font 7Bs on southern sandstone may or june last year. I'm in bristol and there's not much bouldering around here so i just end up going inside. to be fair though I have only really been climbing properly a little over 18 months now (although i did a bit of top roping at school but hated it) and what with winter and the no bouldering i haven't been on real rock much.
i have no idea what grade 5 one armers would get me to, but i'd be stronger.
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I think getting your finger fixed is probably a good goal right now.....
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and Nik at work, im sure you're very strong and a very good rock climber but there's no need to be sarcastic. surely if you had the option of being able to do more one armers or not (without changing anything else), you'd choose being able to? I really can't see how it would be unhelpful.
Easy boss. No sarcasm, I was merely expressing an opinion that apparently ran counter to yours and qualifying said statement with the caveat that I in no way consider myself to be the last word in knowledge on this topic.
To be able to do 5 one-armers I would have to train one-armers to the detriment of other more important (in my opinion) aspects of climbing development.
If you want to be able do lots of one armers then train that, and good luck to you. But if you'd rather get better at climbing then IMHO you're better doing other stuff. I suspect I'm not the only one to think this. Anyway whatever you choose to do I hope you enjoy yourself, doing one-armers and climbing strike me as equally pointless activities which can probably both yield similar senses of satisfaction.
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Also I think if you don't go climbing outside more, you're going to set a record for the person most puntered by Mark!
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and sort of did an 8a but pussied out of clipping the anchors off a glassy crimp and grabbed them instead (which has haunted me ever since). so im not sure that counts, but i did get to the top.
In my book :-\...it counts :thumbsup:
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Are you Nibile in disguise Omar15? (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,14931.0/topicseen.html)
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i have no idea what grade 5 one armers would get me to,
It wouldn't because it's not a limiting factor, people boulder and route far harder than you without being able to do a single one.
but i'd be stronger.
...at doing one armers.
You can do what you want with your time, but you stated in your OP that you believed that the ability to do more one armers would help with your climbing - it won't.
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Serpico, obviously as a complete punter I'm not in a position to contend your training knowledge, but didn't Rich Simpson go in for one armers in a big way? I'm guessing he must have thought it was helping his climbing.
I know what works for one doesn't always work for another but I presume there must have been some rationale behind it, and he did acheive pretty high in quite a short space of time.
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Serpico, obviously as a complete punter I'm not in a position to contend your training knowledge, but didn't Rich Simpson go in for one armers in a big way? I'm guessing he must have thought it was helping his climbing.
I know what works for one doesn't always work for another but I presume there must have been some rationale behind it, and he did acheive pretty high in quite a short space of time.
Don't look at what someone can do, to see what is necessary to climb hard look at what they can't. If you take 2 9a climbers - one can juggle and one can't, it'd be pretty obvious that juggling is not necessary for climbing 9a (despite what they might say on UKC).
The weakest climber sets the entry level qualifications for the grade.
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Simpson had a breadth of climbing experience on rock in different styles etc. way before he started climbing exclusively in a garage in Redditch. He could also do multiple one-armers when he was totally shit at climbing. His brother did 1-4-7 on his campus board without ever having climbed.
This suggests to me that doing lots of one armers/having an absurd amount of power cant shortcut having to do lots of climbing to be good at rock climbing.
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I'm going to have to disagree here. Being strong as f*ck can help your climbing in the short term.
However, the simple fact is that its a very inefficient and daft direction to take. Once you're really strong you'll find the temptation to just yard through on everything meaning you climb really inefficiently, you'll soon realise that people much weaker than you can outperform and it'll be incredibly frustrating. Chances are you'll also turn into a one trick pony.
Its also incredibly difficult (although not impossible) to retro-learn technique when you have the physical ability to just ignore it. If you do go down this route you'll have to bite the bullet one day and go back to basics. Or get lost in a downward spiral of competitive training and barely setting foot outside except perhaps for a hanful of times a year to confirm that you are not yet strong enough.
This isn't the best order to do things in.
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Serpico, obviously as a complete punter I'm not in a position to contend your training knowledge, but didn't Rich Simpson go in for one armers in a big way? I'm guessing he must have thought it was helping his climbing.
He may have done, but I suspect (in fact I am almost certain, based on footage I have seen, and seeing him outdoors), that they were just a tiny part of his training program and that he also had excellent footwork, great body tension, and did enough campus boarding that he could pull down hard on very small holds rather than just be able to yard off what essentially the biggest jug possible (a bar).
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He may have done, but I suspect (in fact I am almost certain, based on footage I have seen, and seeing him outdoors), that they were just a tiny part of his training program and that he also had excellent footwork, great body tension, and did enough campus boarding that he could pull down hard on very small holds rather than just be able to yard off what essentially the biggest jug possible (a bar).
I agree with you, I know it was only a tiny part and I'm aware that he did lots of other (more specific) forms of training plus lots of real climbing. Don't get me wrong I'm really not saying that you should just train one armers or even that it should be a major component of your training regime but it was part of his routine and he does recommend it in the fingerboard routines on the moon website. This is in conflict with most of the advice on this thread basically saying don't bother, they won't help you.
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We weren't saying that they wouldn't help anyone, just that they wouldn't help Omar very much. It is pretty obvious that regular days outside learning how to rock climb would benefit him more than any amount of one armers.
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and you've ignored what Serpico pointed out. Rich was incredibly strong, one might say overly strong.
I'd also say the moon fingerboard article has been superceeded these days by the beastmaker 3-2-1 knowledge :shrug:
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This is in conflict with most of the advice on this thread basically saying don't bother, they won't help you.
I don't think people are saying that. It seems to me that the gist of the advice is that the ability to do a one armer is pretty insignificant, compared to the broad suite of other strengths and abilities that you can train that you would otherwise lack, if you concentrated your time and effort on this one small aspect with the aim to climbing at any high standard.
And this seems comes from a pretty broad range of climbers who have posted who climb (or have climbed) at significantly high grades to know what they are talking about (and I exclude myself from this group)
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[To be able to do 5 one-armers I would have to train one-armers to the detriment of other more important (in my opinion) aspects of climbing development.
And which part of your intensive training regime would you have to cut back on Nik? The cake eating or the lego making? :P
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Paul_B hit the nail on the head: Its also incredibly difficult (although not impossible) to retro-learn technique when you have the physical ability to just ignore it. If you do go down this route you'll have to bite the bullet one day and go back to basics.
It sounds that you have enough basic strength but you need to focus that strength/power and that is by using technique.
My advice is that you should go outside have fun and climb lots of easy stuff but always try to do it the easiest sequence possible and don't power through it. Of course if one armers are your idea of fun then go for it.
I did something similar, got reasonably strong (not strong enough to do a one armer tho) then disciplined myself for 10 months working on technique. If I had the chance I would go back and do the technique first then the strength. The following winter I managed a few hard ascents in quick time ( well they were hard back then).
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We weren't saying that they wouldn't help anyone, just that they wouldn't help Omar very much. It is pretty obvious that regular days outside learning how to rock climb would benefit him more than any amount of one armers.
Fair enough, I should really read the thread properly before replying! :spank:
and you've ignored what Serpico pointed out. Rich was incredibly strong, one might say overly strong.
I'd also say the moon fingerboard article has been superceeded these days by the beastmaker 3-2-1 knowledge :shrug:
I didn't ignore it at all, he might have been overly strong but he achieved exactly what he wanted to in climbing and in relatively short order so I would disagree with the implication that it was inefficient. Surely in reality its impossible to balance all of the facets of your physical condition and ability so that they are always 'only just' what you need to achieve your goals - you're probably always ahead in some areas and behind in others.
Yes, I guess the beastmaker articles have superseeded the moon articles but the beastmaker guys don't ignore one armers either - in fact they have made a (light hearted) performance table showing which beastmaker holds have been 'one-armered'...
Anyway I'm sorry to be dragging this thread out longer than necessary, I do understand that training should be balanced and not over emphasise one area to the detriment of others.
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I did something similar, got reasonably strong (not strong enough to do a one armer tho) then disciplined myself for 10 months working on technique. If I had the chance I would go back and do the technique first then the strength. The following winter I managed a few hard ascents in quick time ( well they were hard back then).
Likewise. I climbed loads on the local Quartzite in SA and could bone the fuck out of the dirtiest little crimps and pinches on steep ground, then moved to Leeds and couldn't climb gritstone for shit. Spent the first summer (enjoyably I might add) just getting out and bouldering locally and learning loads of useful stuff.
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he achieved exactly what he wanted to in climbing and in relatively short order so I would disagree with the implication that it was inefficient.
I was reffering to efficiency within his climbing not in achieving goals. Like I said higher up, pure strength can be a great way to achieve short term goals but as a long term stratergy its highly flawed.
Yes, I guess the beastmaker articles have superseeded the moon articles but the beastmaker guys don't ignore one armers either - in fact they have made a (light hearted) performance table showing which beastmaker holds have been 'one-armered'...
again further up I pointed out that there is a big difference between one-arming a bar and a tiny hold. The latter being more applicable obviously. Dong more one armers on a bar is never going to lead to being able to one arm tiny hold. Time could be better spent, oh I don't know, hanging from a tiny edge?
I did something similar, got reasonably strong (not strong enough to do a one armer tho) then disciplined myself for 10 months working on technique. If I had the chance I would go back and do the technique first then the strength. The following winter I managed a few hard ascents in quick time ( well they were hard back then).
Likewise. I climbed loads on the local Quartzite in SA and could bone the fuck out of the dirtiest little crimps and pinches on steep ground, then moved to Leeds and couldn't climb gritstone for shit. Spent the first summer (enjoyably I might add) just getting out and bouldering locally and learning loads of useful stuff.
Surely this is THE most recurring theme right now.
I was lucky enough to spend 6 months last year travelling and solely climbing. I didn't need to enforce a non-training mindset it just happened naturally. I think this went a good way towards redressing my imbalance between strength and technique (althought to borrow a beastmaker industries phrase), I'm still front wheel drive.
If I had the chance again I'd do it in reverse. Its the natural way.
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[To be able to do 5 one-armers I would have to train one-armers to the detriment of other more important (in my opinion) aspects of climbing development.
And which part of your intensive training regime would you have to cut back on Nik? The cake eating or the lego making? :P
:lol:
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personally speaking i have found that having the strength to do one armers is quite beneficial and this isn't for the obvious reasons. when i have put effort into doing one armers i have found a significant increase in my ability to hold small holds. all i can put this down to is that having a bit of excess power makes you less likely to squirm and move around on said hold allowing worse holds than usual to become useful. hope that makes sense.
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I do not disagree with you Ben that it works for you, especially combined with the technique you have already, but it sounds like the OP has bags of strength but is lacking somewhat in the technique department and with a bit of focus upon technique would reap the greatest benefits rather than concentrating on doing 5 one armers in the vain hope that 1 one armer=existing climbing grade(font7b) so therefore 5 one armers=much higher grade(font8b??????). We all know from experience that climbing doesn't work like this.
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Hmm, I can see what you're all saying. In fairness I don't think my technique is horrific - its definitely not amazing or particularly good, but its improved a lot. I've found that the things that have improved it most are problems I find difficult, that I can't just pull through because then im forced to use some semblance of technique - I think anyone can climb well at easier grades and I don't really see I'd gain anything from climbing loads of easy problems efficiently.
And I don't think think that being able to do 5 one armers would catapult me to 8B, nothing of the sort. I just think that being able to do 5 would help me more than being able to do 3. I don't see how, at the end of a session when I can't climb anymore, working one arm strength using the ideas in the first few posts would harm.
Clearly it would help to get out bouldering (im just not particularly psyched for sport) on real rock, but since im in Bristol with only a motorbike for transport thats a bit of a logistical problem. I've heard there are areas around (we're going to the wye valley or somewhere on wednesday) but there's not really anything brilliant, so i just spend most of my time indoors.
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i think that doing more one armers can help one's climbing, not as a feat in itself, but for what it means.
doing 1 one armer sets you at a certain level of power. doing 5, sets you at a different level of power. having more power, often means lasting longer on a climb, because every single move tires you down less. you execute the moves more easily and this help loads. i have experienced this on my own at the gym: despite never training endurance, sometimes i do long circuits, and it's not uncommon for me to flash circuits of 7c or 7c+ in the 25/30 moves.
all that's been said for technique is true, on the other side, but being stronger does help. obviously by stronger i mean generally and specifically stronger, i.e. doing more one armers AND on smaller holds.
re. rich simpson
let's not forget that one of his goals was action directe. if you are not a professional, sponsored climber who can go there whenever you can, but have a limited time and so on, you want to get at the base of the route SURE that you have plenty to throw at it. if you are not even able to do the single moves, you aren't going to climb the route fo' sho'.
finally, wanting to do "more", regardless of its usefulness, it's what pushes me forward.
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This might be of use
http://esotericbouldering.com/bristol/ (http://esotericbouldering.com/bristol/)
Also
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=42811 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=42811)
Plus if you network a bit when bouldering down the wall , rather than spend your time trying to 5 one - armers, you might be able to hook up with other locals for lifts and stuff. Or is that too sensible :)
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Thanks Chris, I thought the bathford boulders were meant to be chossy wank but apparently not - I'll try and see if anyones up for having a look. Burton coombe on esoteric bouldering looks fairly okay.
And networking, no. that would mean i have to talk to people.
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Hmm, I can see what you're all saying. In fairness I don't think my technique is horrific - its definitely not amazing or particularly good, but its improved a lot. I've found that the things that have improved it most are problems I find difficult, that I can't just pull through because then im forced to use some semblance of technique - I think anyone can climb well at easier grades and I don't really see I'd gain anything from climbing loads of easy problems efficiently.
And I don't think think that being able to do 5 one armers would catapult me to 8B, nothing of the sort. I just think that being able to do 5 would help me more than being able to do 3. I don't see how, at the end of a session when I can't climb anymore, working one arm strength using the ideas in the first few posts would harm.
:wall: :wall: :wall:
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hahaha mark i thought you might say that when i posted it.
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In fairness I don't think my technique is horrific - its definitely not amazing or particularly good.
<snip>
And I don't think think that being able to do 5 one armers would catapult me to 8B, nothing of the sort. I just think that being able to do 5 would help me more than being able to do 3.
Hmmmm. First quote suggests a logical alternative to the second quote.
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anyway, back on topic.
i have trained one armers by doing footless bouldering at the end of the session but also as the main excercise of a session.
i also used to end every session doing as much one armers as i could.
moreover, i have done a few cycles of excentric excercises, with also added weight, but these have a very long supercompensation time.
also, during the summer i just do weights and i see a general power gain also in one armers.
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:oops:
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Cheers Nibile, have you found that adding weights to one armers improves your ability to do them? ie is it worth the extra recovery time?
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hey omar!
i used to do one armers with added weight, but more as a test than a training.
i prefer to do more one armers with natural weight and some help when tired, and also to do eccentric excercises with added weight.
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If you're serious about getting strong, I would reduce the size of the hold you can do them on rather than increase the number you can do on a jug.
I'm probably one of the heaviest people on this thread able to do 'em (87kg) but thanks to my little t-rex arms I could do 2 on my right and 1 on my left (pre -surgery) on a jug. Did nothing for me, and in support of much of the whats been said already, I would frequently get schooled by my less strong peers. Now that I've started hammering my fingers on the beastmaker and reducing the hold sizes for one arming, I'm getting much better gains.
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hahaha mark i thought you might say that when i posted it.
Are you surprised? You can lead a horse to water but you can't make the b*stard drink.
You've pointed out yourself that the problems that force you to use your technique are the ones you can't simply pull through. The more strength you gain the more problems you'll simply yard through ignoring the other ways to imrpove. This is a viscious cycle and leads to you hitting a self imposed glass ceiling which to bust through you're going to have to drop your grade and eat some rather humble pie.
One thing that has amazed me since coming back from my trip is just how much weight your arms DON'T need to take if you use your feet well. I'm nowhere near as strong as I was a few years ago, nowhere near. I climbed with a few of my peers tonight on the board and they'd disagree on appearance. The difference is my feet weren't leaving the board, ever.
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I thought the bathford boulders were meant to be chossy wank but apparently not
Nah, some of them are chossy wank, but some of them (notably "Mike's Boulder") are really good quality rock.
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This is a viscious cycle and leads to you hitting a self imposed glass ceiling which to bust through you're going to have to drop your grade and eat some rather humble pie.
Indeed, and as you were saying earlier those who go down this route often aren't the sort to want to do that, so end up training more and more because they're 'not strong enough', and never actually go outside and climb anything. I've seen a couple of people fall into this trap. They now either spend all their time indoors (and it's not like they're training for comps or anything) or have given up..
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I'm in bristol and there's not much bouldering around here so i just end up going inside
Bathford, Clevedon, Exmoor Coast, Culm Coast, Dartmoor, South Wales, Forest of Dean......... all have decent bouldering, are within easy reach of Brizzle, and a variety of rock types to hone your skills!
If you're willing to pull on a harness and pull up a rope, you are incredibly well situated to access lots of quality rock climbing trad and sport.. :shrug:
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If you're willing to pull on a harness and pull up a rope, you are incredibly well situated to access lots of quality rock climbing trad and sport.. :shrug:
Yeah but he might actually get better at climbing that way which would surely be counter-productive AND cut into valuable errr "one arming" time ;D
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Omar informs me he is off to the Forest of Dean today to go rock-climbing! :o I hope i'll be eating my words shortly.
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Omar informs me he is off to the Forest of Dean today in search of the perfect branch to one-arm
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My work here appears to be done.
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Omar informs me he is off to the Forest of Dean today to go rock-climbing!
The perfect spot for a man convinced of the merits of an excess of power over technique.
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How did you get on Omar? has it changed your perspective at all on the importance of one-armers?
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Meh, it was okay. Most of it was a bit shit - not very psyche-inducing. We found a cool roofy problem but that required naff all technique, was fun though.
I hope the other bouldering spots around brizzle aren't as bad!
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You've been spoiled by southern sandstone!
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not really s sandstone appears to be wank, n i know bristol is. if i were u omar i'd go for 6 one-armers
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Hey it's not wank! Look, I can do a list of good things about High Rocks:
1) It's half an hour from where I live.
2) ........
3) ...............
In all seriousness there is some bloody good bouldering if you know where to look..... (takes cover)
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not really s sandstone appears to be wank, n i know bristol is.
southern sandstone is not wank, go and wash your mouth out. bristol is though.
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sorry ben i stand corrected, shuffles off for long sling n top rope
plus the photo's i've seen on web don't inspire me to walk from one prob to the next let alone travelling there. suppose if i did live near it tho, i'd take up weights :hug:
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I'm in Bristol and there's not much bouldering around here so i just end up going inside
Bathford, Clevedon, Exmoor Coast, Culm Coast, Dartmoor, South Wales, Forest of Dean......... all have decent bouldering, are within easy reach of Brizzle, and a variety of rock types to hone your skills!
If you're willing to pull on a harness and pull up a rope, you are incredibly well situated to access lots of quality rock climbing trad and sport.. :shrug:
Omar, get yourself over to Dinas Rock (http://www.swbg.co.uk/bouldering/dinas_rocks/kenelgarth_wall.shtml (http://www.swbg.co.uk/bouldering/dinas_rocks/kenelgarth_wall.shtml)). About an hours drive from Bristol and is a quality venue. Let me know when you're there and I'll try to organise people to show you around (if I'm not there myself of course). It sounds like you're not into sport climbing, but it's worth persevering with as there is loads close to you and in South Wales, on varying rock types that require a variety of climbing styles that will ultimately make you a better boulderer!
Regarding one armers, doing lots on a jug will help your arm endurance but if you want to be a better/stronger climber then carnage is on the money and you should aim to do one on gradually smaller holds. Be careful though as one armers are amazing at inducing elbow injuries and if you haven't been climbing for too long, then doing a one armer off a small edge will at some point induce a finger pulley injury.
As has said before though, if you've been climbing for 3 years or less, then you're priority should be learning to climb, and I don't mean that to sound patronising, but you learn so many climbing skills in the first few years that out weigh improving arm strength.
One other thing, I usually love to do a few one armer's off a jug early in a session as part of my warm up (or sometimes just as a party trick to show off!) but at the moment I have tricep injuries in both arms which prevent me from even doing a single two arm pull. However, even without being able to do a one or even two arm pull up, I am still bouldering / climbing at the same level prior to being injured (tonight I repeated 3 overhanging V9's and a few V7 and V6's at Dinas Rock). Morale of the story, one armers are worth doing as part of an all round climbing and training programme, but they should only be a small part of that programme and ultimitely won't be the deciding factor as to whether you achieve big numbers or not (IMHO).
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KH, thank you! Dina's rocks looks very good, i'll try and get down there ASAP. In terms of one armers on smaller holds, I've been thinking about that. I think ill try one arming gradually smaller campus rungs (if my dodgy finger doesnt whine too much) but i still really want my 5 by the end of the year :)
Its a shame im not psyched for sport as a fair few of my friends are - there is a buttload around here. Should have chosen to go to uni in sheffield i guess!
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would stick to open handed omar, crimping doesn't sound like it would be good for u
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ok I havent been climbing that long but I have found that whilst finger strength has to be built up slowly over time ( if you try and go too fast you screw tendons up) other muscles i.e. biceps core etc can be trained a lot harder/faster without injury (as long as you do antagonistic stuff to stop your elbows being ruined) hence why if I feel like my fingers are being a bit tweaky then I go train core or 1 armers. However technique and finger strength is obviously priority but hey I get bored on rest days if I do nothing.
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Wait until your arms are stronger than your fingers and you try and pull harder than you should. It never ends well.
Keep tweaking the engine but never sort out the brakes :whistle:
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true true I've come close a few times but so far I think I've been pretty lucky to be injury free so far
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careful, i said exactly the same thing to my friend and then a few days later tweaked my first finger!
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From a new Paxti interview:
"I can pull up 28 times on two hands and barely once with one hand when I am in my best shape"... so we can definitely sack off the one-armers.
The interview's here if anyone's interested: http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/patxi_eng.htm (http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/patxi_eng.htm)
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Says here that Bruce Lee could perform 50 reps of one arm chin-ups.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruce_Lee#Physical_feats (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruce_Lee#Physical_feats)
Anyone else doubt this? I guess it means 50 one hand chin-ups (holding wrist).
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From a new Paxti interview:
"I can pull up 28 times on two hands and barely once with one hand when I am in my best shape"...
He should take his training more seriously. You should send him some pointers.
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He should take his training more seriously. You should send him some pointers.
He's a beast compared to this guy:
Height: 182cm weight: 59kg ape index: 2cm
pull ups: 30 one hand pull up: 0
Quite weak in pull ups, uh? Climbing is interesting sport.
(http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm (http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm))
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Height: 182cm weight: 59kg
Ah, it all makes sense now.
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did you need the stats to work it out?
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What was your fighting weight Paul? And he's six foot? Has he got bones made of helium balloons?
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What was your fighting weight Paul? And he's six foot? Has he got bones made of helium balloons?
About 50kg, I did goslightly lower at one stage (god knows how it wasn't as if I was dieting) but got warned by Nat that if I was ever lighter than her there would be trouble :thumbsup:
The worrying thing was coming out of hospital with a fair amount of structural support and my weight being unchanged!
BTW that puts him with a BMI of 17.8 Holy Fuck.
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Height: 182cm Check weight: 59kg Jesus Christ that's +18 Kg ape index: 2cm Check
pull ups: 30 :-[ one hand pull up: 0 Check
I Like Pies :thumbsup:
And Paul - what height are you? 50Kg is about the weight of a pre-pubescent girl... :o
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Another reason he was so good in the school, tiny girl fingers meant the holds were jugs!
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Another reason he was so good in the school, tiny girl fingers meant the holds were jugs!
If you want to see rat hands look at Nats, dismaying on the trip f*ck nows what would constitute a mono for her. Don't think she found one.
This wasn't meant to be a look at me the skinny b*stard thread.However, this was taken about that time:
(http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i165/bennp2000/n61113380_32406600_2911.jpg)
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ah the training days
bruce lee could do 50 one armers, what nonsense, is anything true on wikipedia?
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I heard he did 1000 1-armers a day... ;)
Paul, how come you ended up so injured weighing about fuck all? You should be a beast!
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Paul, how come you ended up so injured weighing about fuck all? You should be a beast!
My leg snapped.
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What was your fighting weight Paul? And he's six foot? Has he got bones made of helium balloons?
About 50kg, I did goslightly lower at one stage (god knows how it wasn't as if I was dieting) but got warned by Nat that if I was ever lighter than her there would be trouble :thumbsup:
I truly am a fat bastard :'(
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don't worry we all are compared to bennett
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I did the sensible thing, I made sure I got all of my injuries in before I even started bouldering.
Around 15 fractures
6 Concussions
A hernia
Chronic tendon issues in my elbows (which seem to be a lot more settled of lately, strange?!)
Wrecked left shoulder
and some rather major injuries sustained in a car crash.
Climbing has thankfully been rather injury free so far, 1 tweak and counting....but I don't wanna jinx myself!
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50kg ?
I'll bench press you for a warm up :lol:
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Back on topic though, I can't do a single one arm pull up, and can manage 10/12 pullups at a push without stopping, a bit shit really ::)
I can deadhang from onearm.....not quite the same though eh!
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Paul, how come you ended up so injured weighing about fuck all? You should be a beast!
My leg snapped.
Ah, that's gonna slow you down a bit!
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Climbing has thankfully been rather injury free so far, 1 tweak and counting....but I don't wanna jinx myself!
With a track record like that I wouldn't count your chickens before.....
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Haha, it was mostly from bmx, crashes at around 20mph, 8ft or so off the ground aren't the best things to partake in for overall bone health apparently.....
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Almost from when I started climbing about a year and a half ago I could do one one-armer with either arm. I would like to train to do more but any training I do results in elbow injury (tendons?). I stop until my elbows recover and start again with the same result. I'm beginning to think that I will never be able to improve at this. Any ideas?
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Go climbing more, one-armers are fucking your elbows.
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:lol:
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Omar can now one arm the beastmaker monos.
:jaw:
As yet, he has no plans to try and flash Action Direkte.
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pinky mono and i'll start getting excited.
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Omar can now one arm the beastmaker monos.
:jaw:
As yet, he has no plans to try and flash Action Direkte.
Too busy climbing indoors all the time?
:P
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yeah to be fair those beastmaker monos are massively juggy - im sure a lot of people can do it. im incredibly psyched for one arming the one joint monos though - that would be hardcore.
interestingly though, i was climbing in gollum's cave the other day and was getting spanked (both on an off the rock) by some guy who i think is pretty good at climbing (ie done 8A) but not massively "strong" - he said he can't hold the slopey 45 pockets on the beastmaker. that made me re-think things a little bit.
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OMG it finally sinks in. Does that mean everyone can stop :wall:
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OMG it finally sinks in. Does that mean everyone can stop :wall:
Nah, it just means Omar's now aiming to be climbing 8B+ 'cause he can hang the 45o monos. :P
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:lol:
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OMG it finally sinks in. Does that mean everyone can stop :wall:
hahahaha. i wouldn't say its fully sunk in yet - its just something to think about. and in fairness, the guy at gollum's was using foot cams for just about everything which is definitely cheating.
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the guy at gollum's was using foot cams for just about everything which is definitely cheating technique.
There ya go, corrected that for you ;)
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Cheers, i thought "cheating son of a bitch" had a t in it.
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Have you considered voluntarily amputating your legs? It would then negate the need for any technique and make you lighter, thus improving your one-armer performance. :P
BTW - watch some women climb, they invariably climb with far better technique due to not being so muscley, yet can still get up stiff routes/problems. Does that make them cheating daughters of a bitch? :-\
:hug:
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i was quite impressed, then embarassed for u, to be able to one arm the mono's on the beastmaker n only climb 7b. then i read its the huge hold, are people still calling this a mono? the devil is indeed in the details :beer1:
:hug:
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I think some people have a different definition of juggy....... It's still a mono!
Maybe I'm more impressed because I can't do it.
Anyway Omar's climbed 8A if that's what you think 1 5 8 counts as.....
I think this thread is amazing and I jsut want it to go on and on :whistle:
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haha. i love how this thread is basically all about me. i think its great.
ian the campus board i did 1 5 8 on is definitely incredibly soft. the closest ive got on a real campus board is 1 5 7.
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I think we're all losing sight of the real issue here - ie. the fact that Omar's sis is the FINEST piece of underage ass around. :shag:
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Really? I think we need to photographic evidence. Just so we can have a proper assessment. :wank:
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Mark, im actually going to mono one armer your pee-hole.
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I think some people have a different definition of juggy....... It's still a mono!
You can mono around a handlebar :-[
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You can mono around a handlebar :-[
You might be able to one-arm that Mr. B. but I can't!
I now feel sad, worthless and weak.
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campus boards ave no grades :wall: :spank: :furious:
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Megalolz!
I know I know. I may not have been being serious with that!
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He should take his training more seriously. You should send him some pointers.
He's a beast compared to this guy:
Height: 182cm weight: 59kg ape index: 2cm
pull ups: 30 one hand pull up: 0
Quite weak in pull ups, uh? Climbing is interesting sport.
(http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm (http://www.baurock.ru/interview2/ondra_eng.htm))
http://www.udini.de/ (http://www.udini.de/)
With those arms and shoulders it's amazing he can't! Or perhaps he's bulked up a little of late with the short term bouldering focus and might indeed manage one now.
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It's about levers though innit? It looks like has hands are probably past his knees when he's standing up straight...
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs192.snc4/37957_452460508113_500938113_5163861_7957194_n.jpg)
Omar Cranks out some one armers
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cheers for that, cockend