UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => beta - bouldering => Topic started by: Nibile on April 22, 2010, 03:40:05 pm
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ok, this could sound strange, but i'm really interested in this mega piece of climbing. far from searching for beta, i would like a description of the hold, and would happily see a picture of it, if one exists, or if a good soul can take one.
why, you may ask.
it's very simple.
it's everything i believe in. one single move, at the magic grade of font 8a. nothing else. it's the essence of power, free from any other element. try to find a better sequence. you can't. try to find a stickier shoe. you can't. try to use a better technique. you can't. you either have it, or you don't.
that's what i believe in.
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If that's all true, you should stop climbing and just weightlift. Its not climbing in any sense of the word.
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Seriously. I fucking love Pinches Wall, but this isn't even one move. I'm pretty open minded when it comes to quality, but Malc's One Armer isn't climbing, it's a one armer. I wouldn't travel from Powerband just to try this, let alone Italy.
But if it's what floats your boat, then the hold is a horizontal left hand crimp. Half pad and flat for the first two fingers, then slopey half pad for the back two.
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i knew it was going to sound strange, but yes, i love power. i'd happily just weightlift, if it was as fun as climbing!
i understand this is just a one armer (the name gives it away a little bit), but i am very interested in what a single footless move can be at font 8a!
it's a benchmark, and i like benchmarks!
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In case you have trouble locating the problem, here's a map. (http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=Log,+Postojna+6232,+Slovenia&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-a&ie=UTF8&hl=en&cd=2&geocode=FTFvugIdgL7YAA&split=0&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=6.881357,14.941406&hq=&hnear=Log,+Postojna+6232,+Slovenia&ll=45.77235,14.2047&spn=0.001227,0.007199&z=17)
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Nice. Shirley you could find a closer place with that name than Slovenia?
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Closer to Nibile, or to Sheffield?
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;D
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Lorenzo dude, well done for the forward thinking. I've tried this and gotten' half way to a 45 degree lock. This feat is performed for one reason only - seperating the men from the girls, and probably why so openly dismissed by our very own Mr Brown.
Power is indeed the food of champions, and if (I'm sure Nodder would agree) James hunt had been a boulderer, he wouldnt have given half a shit about Powerband. Indeed, Mr Hunt would have gone for the one armer, and then walked off with the Chicks and the Champagne, leaving the blue-banders crying into their little dipper chalk bags.
Me, I like the power, and it won't be long before the full problems fall into obscurity.
'Its all about the move...' John Gill circa 1984. Probably.
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LOL. Nibile making dense seem like Caff.
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Power is indeed the food of champions, and if (I'm sure Nodder would agree) James hunt had been a boulderer, he wouldnt have given half a shit about Powerband. Indeed, Mr Hunt would have gone for the one armer, and then walked off with the Chicks and the Champagne, leaving the blue-banders crying into their little dipper chalk bags.
He wasnt talking about power.
29th most slutty athelete apparantly
29. James Hunt
The leading icon of Formula One's playboy era, Hunt was a randy Brit whose celebrity extended well beyond winning the drivers' championship in 1976. When pressed to sign a contract stipulating an appropriate dress code, he sewed a badge to his racing uniform that read "Sex — Breakfast of Champions." His habit of surviving messy driving accidents earned him the vaguely dirty-sounding nickname "Hunt the Shunt," but that didn't deter a bevy of gorgeous women from pursuing him, including supermodel Jane Birkhead and Playboy centerfold Suzy Miller. He reportedly seduced Dutch journalist Alissa Morriën when she visited Hunt in his Spanish villa for an interview on (surprise!) the world's most eligible men. — Annsley Chapman
Anyway I shal endever to make you a foil cast of the hold and post it to you, so you can feel it foil should be similar to the polish...
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Lore, I can make you a CAD mesh drawing of the hold if you want with all curvatures and angles as accurate as you'd like? Let's get SCIENTIFIC if you're going to fly over for an ascent. I wouldn't worry anyway, just keep finding dust particles to one arm off and I'm sure you'll be lapping it when you come.
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Power is indeed the food of champions, and if (I'm sure Nodder would agree) James hunt had been a boulderer, he wouldnt have given half a shit about Powerband. Indeed, Mr Hunt would have gone for the one armer, and then walked off with the Chicks and the Champagne, leaving the blue-banders crying into their little dipper chalk bags.
He wasnt talking about power.
29th most slutty athelete apparantly
29. James Hunt
The leading icon of Formula One's playboy era, Hunt was a randy Brit whose celebrity extended well beyond winning the drivers' championship in 1976. When pressed to sign a contract stipulating an appropriate dress code, he sewed a badge to his racing uniform that read "Sex — Breakfast of Champions." His habit of surviving messy driving accidents earned him the vaguely dirty-sounding nickname "Hunt the Shunt," but that didn't deter a bevy of gorgeous women from pursuing him, including supermodel Jane Birkhead and Playboy centerfold Suzy Miller. He reportedly seduced Dutch journalist Alissa Morriën when she visited Hunt in his Spanish villa for an interview on (surprise!) the world's most eligible men. — Annsley Chapman
Anyway I shal endever to make you a foil cast of the hold and post it to you, so you can feel it foil should be similar to the polish...
I knows that, cider boy - I was pureley speaking shit.
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Lorenzo dude, well done for the forward thinking. I've tried this and gotten' half way to a 45 degree lock.
wow that's a bit worrying. you didn't do it? i'd better start training now if i want to do it before 2020...
anyway, yes, i would like a cad model of the hold.
@tom:
yesterday i was at sox club with luca and bruno. while flirting with nice long legged girls i though about you. for a microsecond, but i did. and smiled.
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Here you are Nibile:
a straight view, a side view and another side on view for scale. Not great, but it's a start, before you get your foil casting.
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm59/AndyBandEmmaF/IMG_0311.jpg)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm59/AndyBandEmmaF/IMG_0312.jpg)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm59/AndyBandEmmaF/IMG_0313.jpg)
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Needs a good Lapising.
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grazie ragazzi!
i think i have a problem on my pc though, i can't see any hold in the pics, just some chalk barely hanging on the wall.
malc is a legend and ukb is a nice place to live in.
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That looks different from the one I thought it was.
Its at the bottom of Toilet right? Only asking because its an important foothold.
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By bottom of Toilet do you mean next to Log, as per dave's directiosn above?
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Today I've touched the Hold with my own hands.
A humbling, life-changing experience.
Starting today, I will now kneel down five times a day in the direction of Raven Tor.
Malc is Great and Nibile is his Prophet.
btw, the nice guys cult gurus who showed me the Holy Hold couldn't identify Hubble (as they don't climb leashed, it seems) :shrug:
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Ghisino is too nice with me, because we are fellow Italians...
He doesn't know that a few members of UKB have actually DONE it!!!
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then they all have instant semi-god status in my new religion
:blink:
i have an hard time imagining how humans can hang 5 secs straight armed on the hold i've been shown (my imagination is as weak as my arms?)
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Don't know it myself but Ed pulls on it here apparently.
An Evening at Raven Tor with the Hamer brothers (http://vimeo.com/26593785)
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Here you are Nibile:
a straight view, a side view and another side on view for scale. Not great, but it's a start, before you get your foil casting.
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm59/AndyBandEmmaF/IMG_0311.jpg)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm59/AndyBandEmmaF/IMG_0312.jpg)
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm59/AndyBandEmmaF/IMG_0313.jpg)
Uh?
Where's the hold.
Shirley that's just a chalk smear?
Holds telescope to blind eye...
"Hold? I see no hold..."
I think that one might depend of the flavour of the Quark...
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Don't know it myself but Ed pulls on it here apparently.
That's Malc's Gran's One Armer.
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Doesn't match the photos does it. ::)
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:wavecry:
Doesn't match the photos does it. ::)
That bit of the film was a joke, sorry.... :-[
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Surely Quintessence would be a better goal on the grounds that it's a) a real problem which goes from one point to another and b) footless levitation?
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Has anyone repeated this ? and when did Malc do it ?
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Rich Simpson?
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I've been working it using a Thera-BandTM for assistance.
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Think ru has dome it. Will told me malc has no recollection of it..
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IIRC gme told me it wasn't a big thing for Malc (just wandered over and did it as part of the warm up) so not surprising if he doesn't remember it.
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Sounds about right. I asked him about it and he said he can't remember doing it. Quite funny that everybody now knows about it :lol:
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I've been working it using a Thera-BandTM for assistance.
Please tell me you're doing that at home, on wood and not on the actual hold
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I think Leo M has done it.
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Moger has indeed done it. I witnessed it with my own two eyes although it wasn't from fully straight and that seemed to rankle with him. I was impressed nonetheless.