UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Bonjoy on April 13, 2010, 03:21:58 pm
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Did a potentially new thing up on the crag at Wimberry on Sat Got a PM from Carl Kelsall and it turns out he did this, wearing jodhpurs and whipping his own arse with a riding crop, the day before Dense's ascent. It's on a beak of rock perched atop Northern Ballet at the RH side of the crag. Carl said he called it Rail Trail (in the eighties), which is a handy coincidence and said it went at soft but pumpy 7a+. Have a video (from the noughties) will post up at some point.
(http://www.peakbouldering.info/photos/699.jpg)
The start bit
(http://www.peakbouldering.info/photos/701.jpg)
The middle bit
(http://www.peakbouldering.info/photos/700.jpg)
The end bit.
The prob starts on the right shoulder and goes all the way round to finish on the left shoulder.
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Pure line, great view, nice.
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Looks great. Is there enough at Wimberry for a 7a/+ boulderer to spend a day there?
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Lots of stuff on the boulders. Well worth a visit if you've never been.
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Why do people keep telling me there's nowt up there? And why do I listen? Looks quality.
There was a team higher up on the Sat afternoon, on the left below the crag. Anyone know of any hidden gems here?
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That prob looks more fun than a barrel of the proverbial simians.
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thats not new jon. me n sam used to do that when up there. r-l and l-r. very good prob. i mentioned it on here yrs ago
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sorry, pre 2000
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used to do that when up there. r-l and l-r. very good prob.
Sage shuffling shimmy shocker! ;D
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It's a glaringly obvious line so may well have been done in the past, but I've come across no record of it.
I did do an extensive search of UKB, but as you posted it two years before the site started it's no surprise nothing showed up :spank:. Not finding any records or mention on here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6464.msg91577.html#msg91577), I recorded the details on the tentative assumption it might be an FA. I'll amend the original post accordingly. Do you want to rename/grade? Any chance you could detail any other stuff done up there too while you're at it.
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Rail Trail is still a good name, I vote to keep it unless it already has a different one.
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I vote that Dense has forfeited the right to claim traverse FA's after his expressions of scorn for the genre.
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It doesn't matter, see the amended OP ;)
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Rail Trail (http://www.vimeo.com/10908425)
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looks ripe for some giant to climb it Boyager-style.
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we did this at least 3 yrs before carl started climbing there. its just come to me jon, when i was saying the other night that the arete, i'll say no more, hadn't been done to my knowledge, i also mentioned this problem (rail trail) to you as a good one to do, top right of crag. :spank:
think rail trails a good name n i certainly didn't do the 1st ascent, sam used to lap (is) it b4 i ever cud
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Lovely feature, it looked twice as big in the video as in the pictures, then i realised it was because Rocket man was on it!
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what he lacks in height, he makes up for in thrust
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Yeah, Sam showed me that years ago n'all. Me and Pat had got a taxi over.
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did you dismiss it as 'front levers under a park bench?'
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Pretty much. There aren't many benches with a view like that mind, or the friction, so it was worth doing once.
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I went up to Wimberry today and was frankly diapointed by the place. Its 'ok' and there are a few classics but its very green and someone had shit in pride of place underneath the tank boulder.
Why do people keep telling me there's nowt up there? And why do I listen? Looks quality.
Rail Trail was practically glowing and no amount of brushing could remove the green sludge from the start, nor the bit your palm rests against on the end, or where your thumb might go to pinch under the roof.
Great line and maybe I just hit it in crap conditions but today it wasn't a pleasant experience. However, the view from Rail Trail is worth the walk.
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You went up today? After it rained all morning? Its not entirely down to chance that this 'bad luck' dogs you is it?
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Where was this rain you speak of? I didn't get wet once, nor did my windscreen (driving from Manc @ 11am)
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The radar has expired now, but a front went through this morning. It was hammering the windows here from 5 while 9. What a way to make a living.
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The radar has expired now, but a front went through this morning. It was hammering the windows here from 5 while 9. What a way to make a living.
I checked the weather and it was hitting Buxton and Hathersage hard. Wimberry was fine.
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It was tracking south-east so I'm pretty sure it will have been through Wimberry first. Anyway, lesson leaned, don't go to Wimberry unless its been totally dry for a few days. Running Hill Pits is close by and less prone to greening up.
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was piss wet through in mcr when i was up for work this morning. Im guessing it may have rained.
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according to the missus it was pising it down in the small hours although that may of been leroy nipping round for a golden shower :shag:
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according to the missus it was pising it down in the small hours although that may of been leroy nipping round for a golden shower :shag:
that must of been why then.... (Leroy nipped out to take a piss on Ego).
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you need to learn that Johnny is nearly alway correct 99% of the time.
I do remember once tho, we were in the pub and he was wrong about something. I'm fairly sure we wrote it down, time, dated and signed.
It was a glorious occasion
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Was it about whether a duck was a turkey or a goose? Hang on, am I getting him confused with Somebody else?
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Piss off, Attenborough.
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How? By calling him repeatedly but not saying anything and then hanging up? Stop telling me what to do anyway.
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You'll listen to Simpson though - are you still in the river?
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;D